STORY WRITTEN BY GABRIEL GOUVEIA
EDITED BY TIFFANY LU
NARRATION PAUL G ROBERTS
Many famous fashion houses have their roots in the equestrian goods trade. Hermès began in France as a supplier of coach harnesses and equestrian accoutrements in 1837.
Thierry Hermès founded the company in 1837 as a harness workshop in Paris. Originally, his intent was to serve the needs of European noblemen by providing saddles, bridles and other leather riding gear.
Thierry Hermès founded the company in 1837 as a harness workshop in Paris. Originally, his intent was to serve the needs of European noblemen by providing saddles, bridles and other leather riding gear.
The Hermès clientele consisted of only the uppermost circles of high society, but the brand was also able to adapt to changes in transportation, developing travel luggage with a reputation for quality. Still today, Hermès Kelly and Birkin bags are symbols of status, in part due to their pedigree as a Parisian brand.
In the early 20th century, Thierry’s son Charles-Émile Hermès moved the company’s shop to 24 Rue Du Faubourg Saint-Honore in Paris, where it remains to this very day and is the company’s global headquarters.
Between 1880 and 1900, it started selling saddlery and introduced its product in retail stores.
In 1900, the company started selling the “Haut à Courroies” bag, which was meant for riders to carry their saddles in it. It was a specially designed bag, with a high trapezoid shape, for riders to carry their saddles or other paraphernalia and is the closest product to the bags produced today.
In 1918, Hermes introduce the first leather golf jacket with a zipper, crafted for Edward, Prince of Wales. Due to their exclusive rights agreement, the zipper becomes known throughout France as the ‘fermeture Hermes’, or the ‘Hermes fastener’.
Inspired by a blanket-holder used in the 1920s, Plume bag was created. It was one of the first bags created by Hermes in soft unlined leather. It is made inside out and then at the end turned back out to produce a perfect lady like handbag.
In the 1920s, accessories and clothing were introduced into the portfolio as Hermes introduce the first women’s couture apparel collection which included bathing. The first leather handbags entered the product line in 1922 and the brand introduced travel bags in 1925.
Sac à dépêches was created in 1928 to carry Depeches. These were known as news and latest information. The bag was essentially a satchel for men. Still the most popular for special orders at Hermes you can have any number of pouches and in any size.
The company’s iconic duc-carriage-with-horse logo and signature orange boxes were introduced in the 1950s.
They expanded into the world of fine timepieces in the 1930’s. Entering into a pivotal partnership with Universal Genève, the Swiss watchmaker. This partnership allowed Hermès to produce masterful timepieces in the movements of a practiced watchmaker, and Hermès could create just the band. This partnership continued only briefly, however, as Hermès began to bring their watchmaking in house.
Verrou clutch bag was created in 1938. It was closed by a sliver bolt and after Andy Warhols’ muse Ultra Violet returned the one Andy Warhol had once bought her to Hermes, the house decided to produce a new version with a silver and palladium bolt.
Hermès brought the now iconic Chaîne d’Ancre bracelet in 1939. A widely used motif within the house’s aesthetic, as well as in their various product lines, the Chaîne d’Ancre is still being used today. An ingenious use of the capital “H” in an interlocking chain pattern, the design became a subtle insignia for the house.
In 1949 Hermès launched their new line of perfume, dubbed Eau d’Hermès, as well as the Hermès silk tie for men. The fragrances and silk products were later to be some of the houses prime selling products, as they added more designs to the list in the time of Robert Dumas-Hermès.
A photo of Hollywood actress turned Monaco Princess, Grace Kelly, carrying a Hermes Sac à dépêches to cover her pregnant belly is published on the front cover of Life Magazine in 1956. Suddenly women are flooding into Hermes stores asking for the ‘Kelly Bag’.
17 мар 2021
