Various Repair Kits - amzn.to/2Wcu2S9 (Amazon Link) Fixing and replacing my rusted toilet flange using various repair kits, then finally going with a DIY hack job that worked best
It's RU-vid, whaddya ya want? He shared his experience and you got an idea now. He told you he didn't have the tools or the time and he still made it work. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you. Lots of other videos telling me to destroy the existing flange…which while it would work was highly dangerous as I don’t want to destroy the pipe either.
One cut is okay but if you do cuts then just use the 2 piece flange it’s much sturdier and it has the screws that connect them together . But the choice are great ideas to show us the choices . I just removed my rusty old flange and the concrete beneath was slushy so I bought some tube concrete and filled the gap and tomorrow I’m installing the 2 piece flange . Thanks for the video !
Very good and helpful video. I just did some of this. Same kind of situation. I agree, pursue all the options. You can take back what you don't need. I ended up doing a similar split ring scenario too but I used the Oatey Moss Bay split flange from Lowe's Home Improvement. It is engineered to fit in around the plastic part of the existing pipe piece that is not easily removed. Once in place use a hammer drill with a 3/16" masonry bit and then screw down with 1/4" X 1 3/4" concrete appropriate screws if in a slab or appropriate and similar screws for wood. Take time to study all the options as was done here. If your slab or wood surface is seriously damaged it maybe a much more serious fix best left to a professional. I had this presented to me rather quickly and this video gave me a great headstart. I can't thank you enough for posting it. You have done a great service!
My flange completed rusted away too. I used the flange repair ring because the pipe is offset, and an insert won't work. The ends overlap and once the screws are in place, it doesn't budge and works like a charm. I'm now putting in a new toilet so I've decided to replace it, not because I need to, but as long as I'm upgrading, I might as well do it right.
I'm going through this right now. The seating ring cheat is what I needed assurance with. This is essentially the route I want to take with out ruining the existing plumbing height or width. I have alreadycleared out as best as I could the area around the closet flare now I just have to find a proper flange seating ring which I can modify slightly without compromising the existing assembly. The only concern after this is just the seating position of the toilet... Thanks for the reassurance vid.
First, clean up the mess before even thinking about continuing unless you’re an animal 😁. Second, although it was in fact informative, this video definitely had some incorrect info. Might I suggest using an extra set of toilet nuts and a washer to secure the bolts to the flange. This will save you a ton of grief. Duct (he called it masking tape) tape won’t keep the bolts from turning when you are trying to put the top toilet bolts. Also, use a good quality screws to mount the new flange, not the old rusty ones or you’ll need up right back where you started. Even the cheap zinc ones are better.
@@Honestandtruth007 I have no idea what they are made of. I just use what comes with them. I’ve never had problems with the actual nuts. It’s mostly the flange that rusts out. I’m not saying you’re wrong at all.
@@dontbetoomad2684 That's Okay friend...... Sharing is Helping. So many people are having problems with the Flanges... ..... 2-Holes on the PVC flange are NOT Strong enough to Hold the Toilet and The Roughness of the people........ ...... Personally...... I think the Plumbing Codes and the Designs MUST be Changed just Added 2-Holes by the toilet Bowl itself and bolt it to the Floor.. That should be Strong enough to withstand the Roughness of the people...
Yeah. I would never fix it this way even if I was about to flip the house and run off. Plus, do a bit of cleanup before filming and reinstalling. And you didn’t even mention a wax ring or gasket. What a hack job
I use a metal washer and nut round side down to tighten the water closet toilet bolts to the flange so they don't spin later especially if the toilet needs removed again. Plus on top of the toilet porcalin a metal washer on each side top and bottom of the plastic washer for the plastic caps(making the plastic cap washer in the middle of the metal washers, then the nut round side facing up on top. Then trim the bolts if needed to the height of a little above the final nuts to hold the toilet to the floor and install the two plastic caps.
Thank you Jesus for this video,I was searching on RU-vid for a video and God directed me to the right one,I didn't have to call a plumber or anything,this man saved me money and time,all I had to get was some screws from homedepot,I could give this man a big Ole hug,thanks for this nice video
Probably already mentioned on this older video, but the silver metal is stainless steel - a superior upgrade of what was originally installed - epoxy coated steel.
I’m having the same issue with the flange great idea on cutting it. But my other problem is I only have enough concrete foundation to put one screw in. I’m gonna use a tap con and maybe I can put a couple other ones in at an angle?
@@boridebrooklyn8300 That's right. That was 1 fo the reasons, the 2nd was that it was the thinner 1, because my toilet was raised higher, 3rdly it was the cheapest, and I thought it would offer equal duration. Plus I was sure that would fit, since it was nearly like the original.
Buy 2 packs of closet bolts so you can properly secure them to the flange. Also don’t have to worry about them spinning if you ever have to pull the toilet again.
@@cloud9418 right and the nice wax rig kits come with 2. Who tf would use duct tape and straws? Ill tell yaaa... kids in a science project, not plumbers.
My toilet bottom was leaking so here I am. After taking off toilet see that the flange that’s supposed to nailed / screwed down is all rusted through. It’s wooden floor and some is level ( the back ) while the front wood isn’t. It’s gone rotted though maybe a quarter inch down . Can I still use as is and just get it with longest nails / screws I can find ?
If the wood subfloor is rotted through by 1/4", then how much of a stable subfloor is left. If you have a remaining 1/2" stable non-rotted subfloor, then you can just use as is. However if there is crumbling rotted subfloor and nothing to fasten to, then the Toilet will not be stable.
That is a shocking amount of rust for 10-years. It normally takes 20+. Anyway, plastic flanges are weak. They crack, warp, flex, etc. I use metal and paint them with Rustolium to last longer!
Do not listen to any any of this. He had the correct repair flange (otay moss bay) but decided to destroy another repair flange. This is a DIY hack job. Oh man, too much to criticize and not enough time. Leave it to the pros.
In my situation the pre-split ring would have been too thick, every millimeter mattered in my scenario, because of the raised flange with was already abnormally high, put in by the previous plumber. So I had to find an alternative.
FYI, I was quoted ~$500+ to replace an iron flange. If you think it makes more sense to pay someone $500 to replace a flange, rather than spending $20 on a 'hack,' I don't know what to tell you. You have more money burning a hole in your pocket than I do, that's for sure.
When you replace the old metal flange , spray with rust guard. But before attempting any toilet repair, always wear proper PEP mask eyewear and gloves...
I used the thickest, but I bought a few because I didn't want 5 trips back and forth to Walmart or Home Depot. I figured the wax compresses anyway, so I will attempt the thicker one first. Which has about 20% more wax than the thinner one.
One side was completely gone and disintegrated, the other side I unscrewed with a screw driver. Make sure you get a flange that is not too thick (ie too tall for the toilet to sit on top of)
When you go to loosen the nuts holding the toilet down them way you set it the toilet bolts will keep spinning!. Plus the flat piece that's part of toilet flange bolts might pop through slot on the flange!
The flat part of the toilet flange bolts were more than 1/2" away from the open slot on the metal ring. The back of the toilet tank has less than 1/4" give from the wall, and rest basically against the wall. It is unlikely the toilet will shift more than 1/2" in any direction for it to slip out. This setup, while it looks like a hack is actually more secure than the previously installation which lasted 12 yrs.
ciana baltimore did you not watch the video??????????????? He said in the video there is no need to believe the pvc ones will break . Which got the comment . Why do they sell repair kits . Great job ........🙄🙄🙄
@squirrel1179 Calcium in the water will dry in a piece of toilet paper that gets stuck on the pipe. Once that happens more will stick to the old rough paper. Over time you can have an inch or two build up and its hard as a rock. My toilet would flush slow, sometimes just swirl around. Pulled the toilet and found 2" or more of hardened paper right at the flange
toilet will leak! pilot drill!!! concrete screws!!! the reason the other flange was damaged is because it got screwed down same and flange is slightly to high but to high and bad screws = pulls flange up when u tighten toilet over time earth moves pipe moves forward and back which pushes flange up and down screws get loose when screws get loose toilet not as secure and causes separation from wax ring and then ull have your rusted steel ring again which is def rusted and wiggle at time of my post 3 years from the install
The purpose of the metal piece is to secure plastic flange which I did not remove to the floor, then to secure the toilet to the metal ring. The wax ring and the funnel inside the wax ring is what seals the hole on the porcelain toilet to the plastic flange. You do not ever want to put silicone to seal anything on a toilet. If the wax ring, flange and toilet are not aligned then it will leak eventually. While this looks like a hack, the focus was on the stability of those 3 things, to secure it better than the previous 12 yrs.
@@matthewwade1974 You can go around any high end luxury condo building and you will never see silicone around the bottom of a toilet. If there is a leak, you want it to leak out where you can see there is a water leak before it damages your subfloor over time.
I could have used a multi-tool. The problem is, when u live in an apartment building, you don't know how that tube is fastened. You don't want it dropping below the subfloor even slightly or to misalign after you cut it... you don't want to end up tearing up the entire floor to fix that problem. Its not worth the risk.
Do you feel that the ready made split flange kit is just a waste of money ...and that is why you decided to just cut the flange yourself? You dod not see any difference between the two? Thanks
The ready made was thicker, and my flange was already raised above normal, so for me every millimeter counts. Effectively no difference, 1 was $5 and the other was $25, not that that should be the determining factor, it wasn't. Overall it was roughly equivalent, so I went with the one I opened first, and return the others.
I think the pre-made one was 0.15 mm thicker...you still need to make sure the Wax envelope the spaces, so I got the bigger wax ring for that reason. More to smush, but maybe the regular is fine too. But both, try the regular wax ring first after you've put the stainless on. I'm sure what I did will last 10+ yrs
I didn't have those vibrating cutters to do it. plus I did not want to risk the PVC sliding under the subfloor where I could not reach it, both vertical and horizontal after cutting it, because its possible that it was not fastened properly. I'm in a condo building, and if that happened, it would not be pleasant. If that was a house that would be a different matter.
PVC flanges do break. They're plastic and not indestructible. Flange problems have been keeping plumbers in business since Roaman times. My plumber makes more than my Doctor 💊🤣 . 1st Thoroughly clean your work area so you can properly assess the problem and have an even surface to seat the new flange. Your flange may have failed from improper installation. You may need to level the floor around the flange with concrete. Your wax or rubber seal kit should have included nylon posts clips to secure your posts to the flange channels instead of duct tape . Your flange should be even and level. The new metal collar can actually bend or recess if it's too thin or not properly supported by the subfloor which can lead to failure and water damage. In some cases it's just best to get a pro or expierenced friend to help with this. That way the root of the problem is solved. Insurance damage claims can also be denied if a repair wasn't made by a licenced pro or not done to code.😢
I don't understand why you just didn't use the oatey two piece flange that you already had in hand. You berate the person who installed the original flange but then proceed to do your own hack job.
The 2 piece flange was about 2mm too thick, compared to the one I split. The 2mm caused the toilet to rock. The split flange I created was more flush and similar to the exact thickness of the original.
Ewwww why in the world didn't you just use the metal washers and nuts provided with the wax ring to properly secure the bolts instead of using that horrible duct tape
so my ra stopped at my dorm yesterday and helped me fixed the light then she asked for my number so she can text me school Information to me. then she saw the area code and she's like where are you from and turn out we from same place. so before she left she said she's gonna take care of me because I'm from her home town. then she texted me her full name including middle name?? then couple days later she texted me the additional school information without me even asking her. and she's not even my RA. she is just an on duty RA. does she like me? I was really formal maybe that's bad? she was joking around but I'm too akward so I said thank you and that's it.
You've come to the right place. Women like men to be direct and assertive but not overbearing and aggressive. What they don't like are wishy washy guys that hedge and are unsure of themselves. We all get shot down, rejected. Just be direct and say, "hey if you're free lets grab a cup of coffee". Guessing is a waste of time, you don't know. Even if she's not interested, never burn a bridge, it might be 3 months later, 1 year later, or 3 years later, if you are nice, most women you might end up being the last person standing.
@@PoolarityChannel Thanks this is actually pretty helpful. I was half trolling because I thought posting such unrelated comment to your video would be so absurd that it's funny.
