Good tips. My first Wing was a '07. Had the suspension up grades and wow what a difference. Trades for a 2028DCT, defiantly a complete different animal.
I purchased my 2010 GL1800 in July of 2017. After riding it just a a couple of months I was sick of the factory suspension. I started researching suspension upgrades and came across Traxxion Dynamics RU-vid videos and was absolutely sold and aggravated that Honda did such a lousy job on the suspension. I had Traxxion Dynamics "Full Monty" (F/R suspension, neck bearings, fork brace and protectors) upgrade done and it was ABSOLUTELY night and day difference. You could tell a difference before you got out of the parking lot. I set out straight away to the Tail of the Dragon. Their system turns it into a GL1800ST...as in Sport Tourer. The bike felt 300 lbs. lighter and rode and handled remarkedly better. It was worth every penny. Not only that but with the rear upgrade your passenger will no longer be getting that shock to the tailbone that goes with factory rear suspension when it bottoms out. TD's system totally does away with that and makes spring adjustments entirely different. I ride it set at 10 solo and 12 with passenger and gear. My final say is that there is no way that I would ever compromise the handling of my GL1800 by going darkside. I have a friend that boasted that his handled fine with the car tire and said he could do anything I can with my bike. We took off into the mountain roads and within a few miles he was not even visible in the rearview mirror except on the longest straight aways. He has since scrapped the car tire and is going to get TD's system installed on his.
great video very helpful mainly for those who are looking to buy a goldwing for the first time ... but I'm sure that some of those who already have one of these motorcycles were unaware of some of these details ... important information thanks to you
Only took me about 45 minutes the first time I changed the air filter. Followed along a youtube video and used a screw driver bit on my drill to speed things up :D
great video. will add that the steering head bearing torque that traxxion dynamics recommends is 21ftlbs not 19 the call out specifically not to go under 20 or over 23ftlbs. also states that a digital torque wrench is a must for the level of accuracy they recommend. not trying to pick apart your video you did great just want to make sure that detail is sorted as it is pretty important.
The two recalls are obviously a must. Definitely replace the OEM steering head bearings with All-Balls taper bearings but torque to 21lbs, not 19. But don't stop there. The whole front end is too weak for the bike. Replace the triple clamp with a Traxxion Dynamics triple clamp. Get rid of the stock springs and replace them with a Traxxion or Progressive mono-cartridge setup. Fit a Traxxion or Kuryakyn 5-piece fork brace, and shim the anti-dive to disable it. As for the rear suspension, even if you don't upgrade the rear spring or shock, which is an herendous DIY job, service the preload reservoir regularly to make sure there's no air in it, otherwise you could be reading 8-10 before there's any adjustment. There's a great RU-vid video on how to do it. Changing the air filter is daunting until you give it s try. Approach it methodically and you'll have no trouble. There are several very good videos on RU-vid. Whilst you're there, take up the slack in the throttle cables which is causing the lag and fall off in speed when the cruise control is engaged. Also, when in use, the cruise control is deactivated by micro-switches on the front brake level, the clutch lever and the rear brake pedal, all of which are prone to sticking, which prevents the cruise control from working, unless you enjoy 365 days per year of dry warm weather. So keep them clean and lubed. Over here in the UK we have corners and bends and real twisties on our roads so darksiding would be suicidal. Even so, your insurance is certain to be invalidated by fitting any tyre that is not to OEM spec. And if your tyres are fitted and balanced correctly you shouldn't need any after market system to keep them balanced. Likely as not your own satnav/gps will give you a true speed reading but you could fit a Speedo Healer which will correct the bike's speedo. Bleeding the linked brakes is also daunting but check out the various RU-vid videos and you'll have no trouble. Valve clearences / shims are supposed to be checked every 32k but they're unlikely to ever need adjusting if you regularly change the engine oil and oil filter.
I have the '07 mint only 14k miles and love the bike but the gears are so loud and clunky shifting whyyyy?? I wish there was an oil or a way to quiet it down...😅
You are right about the speedometer up to 2012. That was updated and fixed my 2012 runs really close to a GPS. Early models my 1200 and 1500 were that far off.
Worth noting that rear suspension adjustment controls are in the computer menu system on newer goldwings, it’s not an external control. Also there are only 4 settings. Single rider, single rider with baggage, rider with passenger, and rider with passenger+baggage. So a heavier guy (more than 200 lbs) would do rider+baggage to get a good setting. A real muffin of a man (300+ lbs) will probably be comfortable with the rider+passenger setting.
I researched the whole dark side thing. What stopped me was the fact that the beads are shaped differently. A car tire on a bike rim is never fully seated.
My secondary master cylinder had a recall on it but I got letter a little too late. My back breaks were sticking and I changed the brake caliber think it was that. I had the bike for 9 years before having any problems. But now everything is good 👍
I'm buying my first Goldwing, (used 2007 29,000 miles) this Saturday!!! Good to know this info. Im 6'3". Im a Harley rider and I cant wait to ride and own a Goldwing. I have a Electra Glide and a Fatboy, this is going to be intresting. Thank you.
I was 1K, I was 1K! Oh, sorry, I got carried away! I bought 88' GW, before I go through head bearings I'm going through wheels/axles/brakes, etc. (No need too replace New tires), bike has progressive suspension, a long list of accessories an maintenance schedule. (I thought I was detailed being math/science teacher? Quite refreshing!) Check this: this 88' GW with 90,000 on clock can "still do" the coin, side balance test on running motor head an dash. But I want bike's braking way more responsive with more braking power. I'm having switch engagement/disengagement problems! Cruise control switch giving me trouble not popping out? Then see same switch problems on you tube. First ride was not a ride with key ignition switch not responding, with no dash lights, no power too starter switch? Acted like completely dead battery? (But battery excellent charge from solar charger.) (Dog Bone main fuse good?) (Electrical relays sounded like they were clicking in engagement?) When I moved an giggled key between "access" position an "on" position, got dash light too flicker!! (dash lights lost power in key "on" position?) WD-40 in key switch was "No help"? (Key tumblers were working, not switch contact points in switch part below key tumbler?) Added carb/air filter spray cleaner too WD-40 into key switch. Soaked over night. Started working key back an forth, until dash lights came on proper with proper power, in proper key "on" position.(only after carb clearer added too WD-40 did key ignition switch start working correctly!) Dark siding using car tires, but racing car tires, with rolled side wall sooted too racing an motorcycle swingarm demensions.
i installed a progressive rear spring on stock shock, and had my local dealer put in race tech front springs and rebuild forks. holy cow its a race bike now. and i gained 1.5 inches of ground clearance. I did this with 44k miles. should have done it much sooner
Interesting info about the CC. Shall try that and check the cables. Two of the best modifications I have on mine are the Centre Replacement Stand and the Henry Final Drive.
@@d2destinations106 Excellent. It is how it should have been out of the factory. That along with a 195/60/16 CT on the rear has dropped the rpm at 110kph by 500. At a true 110 kph rpm is now 2,500. It basically has moved all the gears up one and 1st is still low enough. Traxxion Dynamics triple clamps, fork brace and front springs are about to be installed along with centra matics. Also am double darkside.
Good to know info! Especially bout the seat! shoppin for a goldwing trike atm, test drove one today, n at 6'4" i was like hmm... Goin to look at a smexy gl1800 trike in 4 days, that im sure I'll be bringing home. (Ya, the anticipation is keeping me up etc!)
Higher octane REDUCES power and mileage. The higher the octane the lower the energy content per gallon of fuel. Better "knock resistance" as octane increases is due entirely to the fuel containg less thermal energy "built-in" and requiring more heat - the ignition spark - to get the fuel burning.
Trying to get my first cruiser after riding sports bikes for 5+ years and was looking to buy an 01 GW with 80k miles for $10,000. Hoping it’s a good bike even considering it’s old age. This video will definitely help me with some more questions to ask the dealership before I buy. Thanks!
IF you ride a Harley, these bikes are NOT for you. You will IMMEDIATELY become an "outcast" of the brotherhood of Harley riders, even your old buddies will treat you as an outcast. It's still funny to see Harleys on the side of the roads as you ride by on your Goldwing😂 MANY secretly "envy" Goldwings, but they DON'T want to be an outcast.
They ate lying because thev2st thing i did prior to purchasing my dct goldwing was call honda directly and ask if the clutch on 6spd was covered.they stated No. I then asked is the dct clutch covered they stated yes because its computer controlled. I think ill be selling my dct soon for lack of confidence with Honda.
@@ccryder-nm7mv Nowadays I understand there are alternator add ons that replace the weak stators. I was lucky with mine. The bike was 4 years old when the stator tanked but Honda covered it. I ride a gen 5 now. It's 18 years old. No stator or timing belts. If it's a good deal in good shape get the 84. I remember mine fondly.
If you put a 180/70R16 on the rear you come within 1 mph to the right mph. The only downside is that when the bike is on the center stand it barely comes off the ground.
Is anyone else having problems with the battery dying completely when stored for long periods of time the battery on my 03’ keeps dying out and I don’t know if it’s me or the bike
Double dark side? Heck, dark side alone has to change its riding performance let alone double dark siding. I stick with cycle tires myself. Any know from experience?
Im looking at a 2004 GW..It has a loud taping in the right side value cover area. It is titled and tagged..It sit for 3 yrs prior to seller tagging it..Lots of videos but no answers? It may be internal damage? Skeptical of purchase..
Avoid the 2001 to mid 2004 models...there are 2 frame issues with those models...the lower cross member frame weld that Honda recalled...but there is a second frame issue that Honda never admitted to and that is the frame cracks in the rear triangle of the frame down by the left passenger floorboard. Honda quietly redesigned the frame in mid 2004 to fix this issue....and Honda replaced many frames in the 01 to 04 models when the customer brought this issue to Honda attention...but of coarse that was over 10 years ago. When buying a old model Gold Wing it's best to just buy a 2005 and up model.
Do you know if the windshield from a 2001 is the same as a 2018? I ordered a new KlockmWerk Flare windshield and they sent one for a 2018. We own a 2001.? We are new Goldwing 1800 GL riders
I have a 2005 Goldwing, and at 39,723 miles the throttle cable broke. Is this a possible problem if the throttle cable was adjusted improperly? It broke right by the throttle side, at the part that goes into the hand throttle. Thank you.
The area of rotation (where it connects to the throttle grip) is the most stressful point of ANY throttle cable. Breakage at this point is considered normal. Both throttle cables should be replaced at the same time.
I’m pretty sure all motorcycle speedos read faster than you’re going. I don’t think I’ve ever had one be accurate. Always 3 mph or so off in favor of being slower than what you’re going. And then the faster you go the more inaccurate it is. I did 168 on my 636. But it was probably more like 155
My 2006 is a special edition , and the only problem I have with it is that the navigation just needs to be updated. I’ve been riding Goldwings since my 1984 - 1200 . I have had five gold wings. Now one thing you wanna do before you start it is you want to get oil flowing , so what you do on a fuel injected bike is you max out the throttle and hit the starter for a couple seconds. ( don’t worry - it won’t start up with it maxed out) I do it about three times - with a 3 minute interval between . With the carbureted models, you can just turn the cut off switch to off and then hit the starter couple times. If anyone has any idea on how I can update the map software in my Goldwing, I. Would appreciate the input.
Crazy putting a car tyre on a motorcycle.... if you are that desperate to max tyre life /save money I would suggest you call it a day on bikes and leave them alone. Absolute madness 😮. Its probably more an American thing on your very big straight roads, here in the UK our journeys are quite different. I still think its crazy though....
Well Sheet. I can condense that list by 90%. The ONLY thing ya need to know about the New DCT Goldwings is DON'T FUKKIN BUY EM. They are Trash and Honda does not honor the warranty. Case Closed. Class Dismissed.
A nice man sits on his office chair and speaks for 13 minutes complete stories about a motorcycle that is never seen and treated once. The main thing is he has a Honda shirt and people are watching this nonsense and the most surprising thing is that for some reason the RU-vid system recommended me to watch this boredom. People will find a life for yourselves.
