I’m personally a big pipe guard guy, I have a simple carbon fiber one that does a good job of protecting from minor dings but could give if u really hammered a rock (but I also don’t ride in a very rocky area typically)
I always leave my lever perch mounts loose enough that you can move them just by hitting them with your fist (similar to the way you run yours) it's definitely saved me alot of levers
I run a ricochet aluminum pipe guard $40 and a tusk exhaust flange support $30 never had any dents or issues at all. One time I nailed my pipe pretty hard onto a chunk of concrete and it was totally fine.
Enjoy your content. I did the same thing but all your bikes you have the WP fork sticker upside down/on wrong fork. Not a big deal if all your doing it for is protection, it's hard not to notice once you realize.
@@DirtBikeChannel the w is on the top side closer to the bottom triple clamp, the pics you posted on ig have the w on the bottom closer to the seal wiper area
braap_ biglunch lol yep. On all the pics he posted, the left side has the P towards the triple clamp...this video does not. I’m no rocket surgeon but that means it’s upside down.
@@DirtBikeChannel you seem pretty reasonable, but 100% ..sorry. I go to supercross and check out all the factory bikes in the pits, that's when i realized I did it backwards. I'm 99% sure the factories do it correctly or the way they intended. Just a suggestion since you have a large following. You can do whatever you want.
Love the videos Kyle. I'm pretty sure you've forced me to buy a beta 390, I'll make sure to tell the manager at the beta dealership that you're the best advertiser!
Thanks for the vid there Kyle. Please do us a favor and make the same vid about the accessories you prefer to use such as that grabhandle on the rear of the seat. Thanks so much bud.
If you don't get the fancy radiator guards they are only 60-100 bucks. Flatland is a really heavy duty one and I've never damaged a radiator with them, mx or hard enduro.
I live in Florida so most of all our tracks and trails are sand. So all I run is a skid plate for going over trees and logs. My bike came with a disc guard.
This channel is great ,love your professional way of doing this. I was hoping you were going to mention a wrap around handguard that would fit the bigger protaper bars. Any suggestions ? Thanks for all your hard work !
I highly recommend a metal skid plate vs plastic. When riding with my friend at Moto1, he broke the plastic plate and cracked his case on a 200 XCW by just hitting the edge of a log. Not even a rock.
@@keystonerider1308 way to go. I might add that only after 86 miles on my 18 TE300, my plastic plate cracked almost the entire length, and I dont even know what I hit. I immediately installed an Enduro Engineering guard too. They are top quality.
There's definitely a difference in the plastics of the Acerbis (likely ABS), and others like AXP (generally HDPE). HDPE is excellent at taking blows and sliding over things. It's incredibly strong. If aluminum is more your style then that's great, but just because something is plastic that doesn't mean it's not durable!
Kyle, good video. I would agree on the radiator guards, for recreational riders a radiator brace may be the best thing to consider. We have 5 dirt bikes in our stable (2017 XC-W 300 6D, 2015, 2016, 2008 KX 100s and a 2017 YZ125) and I am a big fan of the TM Designworks chain guide and slider kits, their full coverage skid plates are good too. We have also been happy with Steahly flywheel weights for our tighter technical riding on the little bikes. Acerbis make a nice hand guard called the X-Factory, and their X-Grip frame guards are a good add on. Keep up the good work!
I got the BPD radiator guards because I kept looping/dumping the bike and the left radiator would get pushed out of the louver and even dented. So, every other ride the radiator was mis-aligned and I'd have to pull the seat and the plastic off to fix it. The BPD seem to provide enough structure to keep the radiator from moving without brackets, but only time will tell if I need to get a bracket.
I dinged one of my WP forks’ leg on rocks once - that’s a $350 part that can be hard to get (it took 8 weeks). There Is no wrap around forks guards for 2016 4 stroke huskies. So I use neoprene forks “socks” or seal savers. I had them a year and I the seals never leaked (a seal would go out every 6 months on average)
Look up SXS skid plates out of Rathdrum Wa. They are plastic and more than likely have one built. If not they will mold one to your bike... I run them and they gaurd your linkage.
Firstly, I'm jealous of your riding area! Secondly, great tips. Thirdly, down here in the SE we have very few rocks, however we have lots of very close trees, which makes it likely that at some point your bar will meet a tree and hopefully not sandwich your fingers between the bar and lever, making a full wrap hand guard more worth considering if you ride down here.
I do several challenging off road events a year up here in North Eastern Ontario Canada. I’m talking swampy, boggy, rocky trails and deep, deep, water crossings and everything else in between on my 21 year old kick start only Yamaha WR400 and no word of a lie, the bikes that I see having the most mechanical and electrical problems on the trails are KTMs. Can somebody tell me why my old beater keeps on tickin while the KTMs take a lickin?!
Good boots and a helmet, knee brace or pads... People usually go with better gloves but not always. Gotta take your water and tools instead of leaving them in the truck
I need someone that can weld aluminium to do a extended skid plate I keep breaking grease nipples on my swing arm linkage when ever I hit a rocky trail or go over a log. But no one know can weld aluminium and no company makes a aftermarket skid plate for my bike
I've been doing that for over 35 years. Yes, plumber's tape. I wrap teflon tape on the handlebar and mount the lever perch on it. The teflon is slippery, so the levers will move up or down in a crash.
Lot guys run full wrap hand guards so dont smash your hand into a tree Hah. Wondering about the alum front fork and brake cover do you notice the suspension being a bit worse since it is a fair amount of unsprung mass(can be about 1lb think up front not sure about rear).
In regards to your swing arm tab protection, Did you mount just using the two side bolts or did you use the additional mounting holes against underside of frame ( would need to drill and tap into swing arm )? I just got one of these and not sure if it would be strong enough without the additional drill and tap. Any opinions?
I have a 2020 KTM 250 XC I was wondering where you got the skid plate because I’m on RockyMountain and they don’t have a drop down for that bike specifically they have a XC-W but not the XC. Will the fit be the same if I got the XC-W model?
I’m on a KTM 250 xcf, my experience I prefer the o ring chain, I don’t ride a ton but I ride a decent bit and it performs better than any chain I’ve ever has as far as lasting awhile
I live in Va lots of trees and different terrain. The reason I stopped using wrap arounds is when you do hit a tree the wrap arounds pretty much grab you and throw your bike into the tree. Standard handguards smack the tree and kinda keep momentum if that makes sense
Surprised you don't use the wraparound hand guards. I don't either but often think I should. Any recommendations for handguards for a beta 300 Rr 2018? I am told the selection is limited because of fitting/space requirements.
Putting Teflon tape on the bars then attach the mount for your clutch and brake levers works great..tighten as usual but it allows the mount to turn instead of braking the levers
Hmm. I get the idea. But the levers stay put under normal operation?? I suppose I'll give this a try. I normally run barkbusters as I ride in what is know as the "Canadian Shield" lots of big ass granite rocks and boulders....which has claimed more than one brake and clutch lever! LOL! If this works, that'll be pretty cool.
@@Jbois1111 ..yes the levers stay in the normal position. The teflon tape just allows the mount to turn instead of breaking the levers when you fall over. Just move the lever back in place after you crash and you are good to go again
When I was racing, I would just slightly loosen the bolts that attach the levers to the bars, so they have a little give if pushed. Saved bending / breaking many levers.
There isn't a GasGas dealer within hundreds of miles of where Kyle and I live in Utah. Well, there is one dealer listed on the GasGas web site, but I've been at that dealership dozens of times and never seen a GasGas. I'd like to.
