Other than my end plate stake looking fully amateur, and launching a spring, no mistakes. I had ten extra springs, and I never staked anything before. I gotta say, it wasn't fun, but I am glad I did it. I haven't done an upper yet. That also looks not fun, but I want to try it.
On my first build , I accidentally put the castle nut backwords, and when I removed it to correct it , the detent spring shot out. Luckily, I had white tile on the floor and not carpet😂
I did break my first AR's right trigger guard pin ear off 15 years ago, it traumatized me ever since. I'm now an armorer for a local shop and have put together ARs for many a satisfied customer...
Think first, pound second. Important lessons from Shot Show guys? I've never made any of the mistakes you mentioned in any of my seven AR builds. Why? I've watched all your Brownells build videos!
I've been working on this gun since 1985. A Marine Corps armorer from 1990 to 1996, 500 per month. I work on 3 to 20 a day for the last 21 yrs in a gun store. Trust me get roll pin punches and use the take down detent to hold the bolt assist in place while you drive in spring pin.
I literally just checked all my hammer springs. All good! I also stopped using the trigger guard roll pin. I thread in a small screw instead. I also bought a long bit and tap to start taping bolt catches. Roll pins suck.
Before I started assembling lowers, I bought a Wheeler Roll Pin Install Tool Kit which included a trigger guard install tool. After awhile, I bought a Wheeler FAT Torque Wrench. 1 of the best "tools" is a 1/4" multi-hole clevis pin to install the front pivot pin.
My Wheeler kit also has the roll pin punch for the bolt release. It's scalloped to clear the side of the receiver. Just take your time to start it in the hole, and you will never mar the side of a receiver again!
Great video with excellent advice. Buy a fixture, buy the right tools for the job. A fixture, an armorers wrench, bolt catch pin punch, a good roll pin punch set and a small hammer are not expensive. I also put down a layer of masking tape in the areas that are in danger of getting scratched by tools slippage. My first build I put the hammer spring in backwards and wondered why my trigger pin kept walking out. I also scratched the cr@p out of the side of my receiver, but we don't talk about that.
Wheeler makes a great tool for pressing in the trigger guard roll pin. Also, I install the trigger spring backwards every time. I always realize it before I install it but I literally do it every time
Thank you so much for this video. I haven't had any issues yet, but didn't realize all my triggers were installed incorrectly until the 5:04 mark. I guess back to the work bench I go.
I’m thankful that my 1st couple builds i didn’t make any mistakes! Although I just paid attention to detail! But I got The Aero Precision M4E1 lower as my 3rd build and thankfully I did, it has no roll pins there all threaded.
If you ever break the trigger guard ears on an AR lower, there is a second chance and saving grace. You can smooth out the damaged section with a file and make it nice and uniform. Then fix the finish with aluminum black or paint, whatever you desire. Then a Daniel defense pistol grip should do a great job covering up your mess up and they don’t require the roll pin for installation because the trigger guard is affixed to the pistol grip. That will do the job nicely. One more pro tip. Don’t use a punch to drive it in at all. Wheeler makes a nice tool for that function and it’s inexpensive (less expensive than buying a new lower when you break it). It’s a roll pin pusher and the roll pin will slide into your trigger guard like butter. I use it every time and I love it.
1. Always use some kind of support underneath when you're removing or installing a rollpin or pin, even if it's just a scrap piece of 2x4 with a hole drilled in it. 2. My son watched an "expert" who used a needlenosed plier to install the bold catch rollpin (or at least that's what he told me the guy did) and of course, when he used his hammer to drive the roll pin in, his pliers slipped and scratched the side of the receiver. He was able to hide the scratch with an Alumablack pen I loaned him. I told him to put duct tape on the side of the receiver in case he slipped. Yes, you can start the pin in the hole with needlenose, align the bolt catch with a punch from the other end, and drive it home, tappy, tappy, with a proper rollpin punch and a light vinyl or brass hammer. 3. There are pictures and videos online about this. (My son may have had to take his pins out and re-install his fcg. I told him I wanted to help him build his first AR, but he couldn't wait.) 4. Ditto 5. If they still had shop class or industrial arts in school, the world would be safer. Using the right tools is "Easy Mode", don't make life any harder than it is. MacGuyver only MacGuvered when he had to in a survival situation. Watch videos, read notes, then watch and read again and again and study the parts so you can do it right or at least figure out what you did wrong easier so you can take it apart and build it again. :)
Used roll pins are like used nails, you can reuse them but it is never as nice and easy as the first usage. In the old days to save the nails, because there hand produced by blacksmith and worth way more than old wood. So they burnt down the older rotten buildings and then dug the nails out of the ashes, instead of pulling them out and risk bending of the (softer) nails. Also if you pinch the roll pin tip to make a slight curve d tip, you can start it easier with the oil and then use larger transfer punch to flare out the roll pin on both sides , so roll pins stay in place even better.
Definitely boogered up my first bolt catch roll pin and installed the hammer spring the wrong way, I did have it on top of the trigger pin, but I found out that it won't sit in the groove correctly. I didn't find out until the range with the light primer strikes and trigger pin walking out. Also, that first one, I mixed up the takedown and pivot pins and got the one stuck in the front hole 😮 Most of my builds have had built in trigger guards so I didn't have to worry about breaking ears until several builds in. I got an aero for my second build and fell loved the threaded bolt catch pin
I did all my research on assembling AR style platform builds before actually doing one so I got to read all the goof ups that others have done on forums and videos beforehand. Also,it helps to have the right tools.
I just recently built my first AR and thankfully I didn't make any of these mistakes thanks to watching these two really helpful dudes on the internet. What were their names again . . . Oh yeah, it was you guys!
I have always watched a video while assembling. They always warn you about the spring so I always do it right. Put masking tape on the receiver to prevent scratching while installing the bolt catch. I have a couple of billet lowers that have an allen screw on the bolt catch and it's a really great system. You should still use the masking tape though. I always support the ears on the trigger guard and have had no problem. Some of them do not require punching a pin through, those are great too. Just don't be ham handed!
I chamfer the edge of my trigger guard roll pins in a drill, then black oxide them with Brownell's Oxy Blue. Large punch and a small hammer makes it drive right in. I use a very solid bench and a block underneath the trigger guard. Never a problem in almost 40 years of assembling ARs.
@lon242 A few years ago when I first started building them, I saw videos of people using them to press in their roll pins supporting both sides of the receiver with the smooth jaws. I fell in love, I suspect those videos are no longer on this anti 2A platform, perhaps elsewhere nowadays though. And if the price is too intimidating, pressing roll pins in isn't stressing the tool to a near failure load, so a Harbor freight knock off will likely provide many years of service for this purpose. Happy Building!
@LRRPFco52 I miss the old days on RU-vid before they turned full evil, when exchanges like this would happen, everyone giving tips and tricks they have found online, or discovered through experience. Giving each other a helping hand getting better in their hobby.
First I want to thank you for the quality and diversity of the shorts you produce. For the damage caused by hammering in the bolt release pin and breaking off one/both of the trigger housing “ears” I have a solution. In the Kobalt line of tools sold by Lowe’s, they have what they call Magnum Grip pliers. As you squeeze the handles the two faces remain parallel to each other. They are perfect for squeezing a pin in place without any damage to the surrounding area. Again, thanks for the advice, each time I start a new project I pay you (both) a visit. Bud
Knipex flat jaws are the only tool I'll install a trigger guard with these days. Lightly start pin with hammer, put trigger guard in place, and squeeze pin through in one smooth motion.
For the Bolt Catch Pin, modifying an old pair of slip joint pliers helped my builds. Grinding off the teeth on both sides, and enough on one side to allow a small nylon block to be added. The other side, drilling a slight divot to keep the plier jaw from slipping off the pin. In the second position (wide) it gets the pin started. In the First position, it seats it mostly home . A couple of light taps with a drift pin an mallet finishes the seating evenly. There may be a specialty tool, but making one took less than an hour and cost me ~$5 using an old pair of slip joints that spend 99% of the time cluttering up my tool chest, because of their limitations as a tool.
If you've lost detents or springs to never been seen again after they go flying across the room, go ahead and hit that like and subscribe button. And if your trigger isn't fighting to fly out you when installing it, you might be doing it wrong lol.
I haven't made these mistakes... but then again I have Aero Precision lowers which have screws for the bolt catch and the trigger guards are part of the lower. I was afraid I would break the lower if I had the kind where you need to install the trigger guard. What about a misaligned gas block? I feel like that would be a common mistake to make, but again I haven't made that mistake either. I'm pretty careful and methodical in everything I do.
Just chamfer your roll pin on one end, Oxy Blue it, then drive it in with ease using a block underneath the other side, a large punch, and small hammer. Easy
I've done probably 10 full builds at this point. I've never even had as much of slight issue getting the trigger guard roll pin in. I don't understand where the issue is. It goes in for me exactly the way it should every time. I use Aero Precision gen 2 lowers and FCD winter trigger guards for reference.
+ Always use a properly sized roll pin punches. Spend the money to get the right sized roll pin punches of good quality. DON'T ever use regular punches or worse yet center points (I've see it all) on roll pins. I think you should do a video on all the non gun parts AND BAD APPLICATIONS/REPAIRS we find on guns. Everything from wood screws driven in and used where a machine screw should be, hose clamps used to secure forends, duct tape used to fix broken stocks, and JB Weld used all over the place for all sorts of reasons.
I use old worn out drill bits as punches. They work great for getting the roll pins in. Since they are slightly tapered, they stay centered and never slip off.
I am guilty reversing the spring on the hammer myself.. I found a quick fix for that and a way to make sure that never happens moving forward.. I call it the drop-in trigger.. a lot of my bills I do from an 80% receiver and I've noticed over the years if you do not know it out completely on the bottom or the sides or somewhere that you are able to install a fire control group you might have to fiddle with it to get it in and you don't figure out if there's anything suspicious until you're actually using the rifle.. so not only do I use a drop-in trigger to alleviate any missteps while assembling I also use it as a great gauge when milling out a receiver? You can pick up some decent drop-in triggers for great prices.. as a matter of fact Brownells carries a few good drop in's(:
I was told to put masking tape or something similar on the side of the lower when putting in the bolt catch roll pin. It either works or I’ve been lucky because I haven’t scratched one yet.
True story, was swapping out a Sig Tread hand guard for a MI hand guard because I couldn’t stand anything about the Sig Tread design. Well, you know the barrel nuts are different and I needed to change them as well. I didn’t have the proper wrench for the Sig barrel nut and I wasn’t going to pay $40+ to order it off their website for a one time use. So I broke out the vice grips but boy that sucker was on TIGHT. I had to put the thing in the vice (that part I use the right tools so as to not ruin my upper) Once I secured it I broke out a pipe wrench and with some struggling I got it off finally. Boy, that nut was on tight. Did I mention that? lol. Needless to say the nut was chewed up pretty good but I didn’t care, wouldn’t be needed it anymore. I put the MI barrel nut on with their supplied wrench and to proper torque specs and it came out awesome. Sometimes you gotta do whatch ya gotta do. 😂😂😂
I've assembled a few ar15's, now I'm about to assemble my first ar10. I have aero precision M5 upper, lower, handguard, & Faxon 18" gunner barrel with rifle length gas system. I also got the Odin work's adjustable buffer. Would you recommend a adjustable gas block? I already have an extra gas block laying in my spare parts box. I'll be using it mostly for deer hunting & range & hod hunting also.
A piece of Trim under the ears works great, keeps it from moving,and oil it . Painter's tape and the roll pin tool keep it scratch free. Right tools for the job.
My first AR build I had a Magpul trigger guard that I hammered in backwards. I don't how I didn't break the ears on that thing. Also I used blue Loctight on the castle nut. I used a hammer on the bolt catch pin but I was smart enough to cover the AR with duct tape before I started hammering lol. I did eventually get a tool and castle nut punch for the castle nut.
Brownell’s isn’t the only lower that uses a screw on the bolt catch instead of a pin. Also, for the broken trigger guard ear you can get lower’s with an integrated trigger guard instead.
Mistake #7: not wearing safety glasses when putting in the detents under spring force for the take-down pins 😬No? Just me? Alright then 👍Didn't get hurt but holy dang when that sucker shot across the room by accident it did cross my mind "damn that could have taken out my eye". This probably falls into the "not using the right tools" section though 😛
All the AR15’s and AR10’s I’ve build, thank god not 1 have I broke the trigger guard tab and all these mistakes! However once I did put the trigger hammer spring backwards but caught it right away.
He who casts the first Stoner is guilty of ARbuse! "I know this guy"...that JB Welded his ear back on after breaking it off on his first build and it held! I nicknamed it Rembrandt. I have proof because it's here in front of me 12 years later and still holding. This is my test platform I try things I would never try on a new RX set. I learned how to install role pins without punches and never scratched any build since then. I use parallel jaw Knipex and never allow air gaps when applying pressure to press fit the pins. A tiny pit of grease and a minute taper ground on the end of the pin if it does not already have one, makes the once dreaded operation go smoothe as butter.
The worst I have done is LAUNCH a pivot pin detent pin and dropped a gas tube roll pin on carpet, found both with a magnet luckily. And one MANGLED safety spring between the end plate and upper, luckily I had spares. Wait, late one night and far too tired I went to assemble an upper. When doing the forward assist I COULD NOT get the pin started, tried forcing, nope. Got pissed, got out the trusty drill and away I went, got the forward assist installed and it works fine. Wasn't until AFTER I did it did I realize I was trying to install a trigger guard pin in the forward assist pin hole, I guess it is extra strong now with the larger roll pin...OOPS.
Wheeler Engineering and Real Avid make a punch for the bolt catch roll pin. Or if you're brave enough you can drill and tap the bolt catch pin hole for a threaded bolt catch pin.
I’ve built many ar’s, just about a month ago I assembled a lower for a friend of mine and completely brain farted and installed the hammer spring backward. We went out shooting and he kept getting light primer strikes and I told him to order a stiffer spring. The spring came in and I went to install it and discovered my mistake. I fixed the orientation of the spring and owned up to my mistake. The gun fires great now. It was my buddies first ar and he thought I had him order a janky gun. Luckily he understood that I can be a little absent minded at times and we had a good laugh about it.
I haven't assembled it yet, I'm waiting on last few parts to show up. I don't have a ar10 upper vise block either. Whats cheapest solution you suggest for me to be able to support the upper so I can install my barrel & nut? I won't be doing anymore at10's. So I'd rather not purchase something specific for it! Thanks
No, I have the castle nut spanner, the free float crow's foot, the Delta ring nut crow's foot, 1-1/16-1-1/4, 30-34mm crow's foot wrenches, the Grace punch & starter for the bolt hold, and the screw press for the trigger guard, and Snap On torque wrenches & screwdrivers. I use the super thin metal pieces from those RFID theft protection devices on the pivot pin detents and a slave pin. Spring wire looks straight across the top on the trigger. I cut my teeth on sidelocks and boxlocks.
