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Yep not PAO OR ESTER BASE STOCKS but highly refined and hydrocracked petroleum and liquid natural gas base stocks NOT SYNTHETIC AT ALL. AND THE SAME REASON MOBIL1 BROUGHT A COMPLAINT AGAINST CASTROL FOR THERE LINE OF SYNTECH IT WASNT SYNTHETIC AND LOST SO MOBIL1 FOLLOWED AND STOPPED USING PAO ESTER BASE STOCKS FOR GROUP 3 AND NEVER CHANGED THEIR PRICE! ESSENTIALLY RIPPING OFF THE PUBLIC FOR DECADES!
@@richardlangley5594 look at the name of the type "semi synthetic" what does that tell you? It tells me less than 10% synthetic that originated from a natural petroleum source if your using that why bother just use conventional semi synthetic is the biggest waste of money out there. 100% synthetics are light-years ahead with formulations for all types of engines including flat tappet lifters and cams that's right. There is absolutely no excuse for not running true synthetic oils. None.
I've been running Pennzoil platinum in my 2013 5.0 Coyote. I tow heavy so I changed my oil between 3k and 4k since the Truck was new. The Coyote has not sludged, and runs like new. I wish all vehicle systems worked as well as this drive train.
I've been using Amsoil for the last 15 years with our 2 Jeeps and they run great. Our local parts store stopped ordering amsoil as they got better deals selling Pennsoil and Valvoline. So I decided to try Pennsoil Platinum and it has actually improved. I saving $40.00 on 6 qts of Pennsoil Platinum and because the Jeep Dealer warranty advises using Pennsoil for warranty purposes I decided to switch.
Pennzoil High Mileage is the best one I have used. My old car does not consume that much oil with Pennzoil unlike other brands. I get good price from Walmart and Amazon. My friend and I gave other brands away. We now only use Pennzoil for our cars now.
Yup. Both my truck and wife's suv have gotten nothing but PUP and PP respectively since new minus the 4 free changes that came with them. Not sure if my dealer uses Ac Delco full synthetic or mobil1. I think it's the same as mobil1 is GMs official sponsor or were... I used "Shell Rotella Gas Truck" (red bottles) as it's Shell (pennzoil parent company) and Rotella is the go to for diesels so I thought it would be good.... nope! The sludge came out like blood clots. Never touched it again. Went back to PUP and it took a short change interval to clean it out. The first pennzoil change after that was black by 2000 miles. Now it doesn't get dark until 5000 miles, even then It's still a nice honey brown/deep amber. And usually doesn't drop much unless im towing alot. so i might need to add half a quart between changes.Love it!
I used mobile 1 exclusively until I looked into my engine, I had a sludge build up, that was with a 3vto 4 thousand mile oil change interval, I switched to Amsoil and never looked back.
I'm a pennzoil fan. Amsoil is too pricey for very little additional benefits. The worst oil I've ever used was "Rotella gas truck" the sludge came out like blood clots when I drained it. I was pretty disappointed given it's Shell (Rotella and pennzoil) so it really caught me off guard given their reputation. Don't see it on the shelf anymore except at liquidation stores that can't give it away.
@@craigquann Shell bought Pennzoil in 2002. I used to buy Rotella by the barrel for my semi, saw it could be used in gas engines on the label. My small block Chevy got worse fuel mileage as soon as I put it in. Right now I drive a Ranger with 300k miles on it, anything but Amzoil just doesn't lubricate on cold 0 degree mornings, with Amsoil it starts, no knocks or ticks like other oils. Pennzoil was a good oil in 1913 when invented, but Amzoil is well worth the money.
I use whatever is cheap, as long as it's 100% synthetic. Wal-Mart's Supertech 100% synthetic motor oil is what I use most. My 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo with a 4.0 liter inline six has over 275,000 miles on it and is still climbing. It's mostly highway miles, and I change the oil every 7500 miles. I once owned a Pontiac Bonneville SSE with the 3800 V-6 engine. I always used Wal-Mart's Supertech oil in that engine. I finally quit driving the car when it had over 460,000 miles on it. The engine and transmission still performed perfectly. The Midwest winter road salt took its toll on the body. I sold the car to a friend and he drove it another 3 years. I felt the car body was becoming too unsafe for the car to be driven on public roads. He obviously did not feel the same way.
Yeah I used super tech conventional oil 5W-30 for 06 Sentra 1.8 L and lasted for 264 K miles. Finally sold it and once in a while the guy who bought it still running for him
Full synthetics have some strict guidelines to meet, your car may not like a certain full synthetic, but there really isn't a bad one out there I am aware of.
Agree, my vehicles have been all Amsoil since 2008. Amsoil Signature series was used to keep my daughters Sunfire running until it could be traded after her husband continually used oil change service at Walmart and Supertech which almost destroyed the engine. Supertech used to be crap many years ago, must have been reformulated and is much better now. I think the strength of Amsoil Signature has protected my 2017 Chevy Equinox 2.4L(100K mi) in spite of excessive fuel dilution.
Check out the oil analysis/additive packages of Shell Rotella T6 multi vehicle 5W30. Superior detergent package and also SN rated. You know Shell owns Pennzoil.
@@markhull5776 I have been aware that Shell Oil owns Pennzoil. I only go with Pennzoil Ultra Platinum synthetic motor oil because the contents are made from natural gas, and my cars feel much better driving them compared to the competing brands.
I’ve been using this in my 2006 Acura RL for the last 3 years and its the best engine oil you can buy at that price. Amsoil may edge Penzoil ultra platinum out, but it’s very expensive. I also use a nano lubricant!
I use. Mobile 1 on my Scion xd has 100k with 5k intervals. Does good. And Valvoline Synthetic HM on my Malibu 150k also 5k intervals both are running excellent no sludge or burning oil issues.
I have been using Amsoil for the past 25 years. I burn thru the miles and every vehicle was well north of 240K miles before I sold them and they still had life left for the new owners. My current truck is a 2014 F-150 STX with the 3.7L V6 (non turbo). Currently has 241K miles and runs like a champ. I use Amsoil Signature Series oil with the 25K mile oil filters. I do idle a lot and tow some, so I change between 12K and 15K miles. The engine burns thru about an extra quart during this time. A few years ago, just for "science", I used Walmart's oil. After 7K miles, when I changed it out, it was a quart low. This is one indicator of how much better Amsoil is. While it is "normal", as per manufactures, for an engine to burn thru a few quarts during the duration of its use, the less you burn off, the better off your catalytic converter is and usually, the longer it will last. I still have the same exhaust. I did have my transmission rebuilt at around 232K miles as it was getting stuck in 5th gear on cold starts. Once it was as operating temperature, it was fine. Most likely a bad main lead or valve body, but I opted for a full rebuild with a 3 yr 36K mile warranty just to be safe. Rather have everything new. Oil is cheap, engines, trannies, and front and rear ends are expensive. If you keep your vehicles 'till the wheels fall off, spend some money and the best lubricants to save a lot more money in the long run.
Hey bud sorry to bother you but I have used royal purple in my vehicles for the last 10-15 years I have never had any problems with them I'm a GM guy and now I'm working on building up my older 04 cateye Silverado and want it to last I have no problems besides my check engine just came on about a month ago it's the knock sensors I'm going to change them out I heard that's very common on these gm trucks I'm thinking of switching over to AMSOIL 5-30 for my 4.8 engine I would also in the future put a small cam in my truck as well but not too big I don't want to change out my stall I would like to put the biggest cam I can without changing stall out I have 170k on miles now what would you recommend u think the change would be worth it from purple to AMSOIL and I'll be doing my plugs as well I have ngk iridium plugs now and want to do it all distro cap wires and plugs I know ac Delco is the go to on GM but I heard and seen the ngk plugs work great what plugs and oil would u recommend? Thanks for your time and info
Yeah I bounce around between Super Tech , Pennzoil and Quaker State. Use full synthetic and change it . My owners manual recommends synthetic blend and I figure any full synthetic is going to be much better
Interesting, I have always been a mobile one fan and will continue to be one. All of the oil in this video are very good motor oil .Purolator is still the best oil filter. They are the original inventors.
@@Elvisthebullyking I just found Royal Purple info and it's the only Group V oil I am aware of, Amsoil is the only Group IV oil I am aware of, making them both 100% synthetic oils. Project Farms shows that Amsoil barely beats Redline. But Redline has the higher anitwear package.
Great oil and is probably the best, But at 3 times the cost.And for the average driver its a waste of money.And the fact of the matter is most people dont keep their cars as long anymore . And if you have a CVT it will go long before your engine.
Moble 1 has performed great in my 2006 toyota highlander hybrid. 370,000 miles. Runs perfectly no oil burn. I am not saying the other oils are not good,moble1 does the job for me.
Most experts agree that the best oil is the one you change more frequently. In other words a $ 25 oil changed at 5,000 mile intervals is better than a $ 50 oil changed every 8,000 miles.
@@notsofast5495 Extended oil intervals are really only applicable if driving conditions meet very stringent requirements, i.e. mostly motorway miles driven at a constant speed. City driving with constant start-stops, heavy-load towing, mountainous terrain, extreme operating temperatures, frequent cold starts, anything that stresses the engine will shorten the lifespan of the oil by half. I use Total oil for my diesel engine and this is what is recommended on their long life oil for my specific engine known to suffer from oil dilution: 12,500 miles when ideal conditions are met, otherwise half. Where I live in Europe extended oil intervals on German cars are very common, generally 18,650 miles or 30,000 km. But once the car is no longer under warranty most mechanics strongly recommend oil changes at half the interval, 9,325 miles or 15,000 km with long-life oil which seems to be a sensible compromise for the average user.
I use Amsoil Full synthetic 0w-20 in my 2014 Lexus is350 F-Sport, peace of mind knowing that my engine is getting the best care that’s available! I’ll never switch!
I've been using cheapest synthetic oil from costco kirkland or walmart supertech for 18 years for my 3 vehicles is still running fine. Just change oil every 5000miles.
BINGO 💯💯💯🎯🎯🎯 Amsoil blows everyone of these out of the water. BTW, check out Shell Rotella T6 multi vehicle 5W30. It's an HDEO that also is SN rated for gasoline. It's a group 3+ with a TBN of 11. It's also got 201 ppm of boron which is probably from borated ester. I'm going to give it a try. Love Amsoil, but with inflation killing me, at about 32 bucks a gallon, it's a really close second.
@@markhull5776 yeah but I want you to send out a virgin sample of oil for analysis then put it in your vehicle then have it tested again at 3,6 and 9 thousand miles and see how it holds up and whether or not the lab tells you to change it. Do the same with Amsoil Signature Series and see the real difference. I can tell you I switched from T6 Rotella Diesel oil to Amsoil Signature Series Max Duty Diesel oil I gotta tell you with 3 gal capacity the T6 Rotella I was only getting about 6,000 miles and it needed changing @ $105. for 3 gal. I drive 15000 to 20000 miles a year. Thats at most 3 changes for $315 per a year. The Amsoil Signature Series with preferred customer price is $133. Per change and it still tests good at 20,000 miles. Amsoil Signature Series is saving me $182 a year just in oil changes never mind the 2mpg increase in fuel mileage the Amsoil is giving me that's a bonus from the lower friction coefficient the oil obviously is producing in my engine. People need to honestly look into actual cost and ignore the sticker shock because Amsoil Signature Series is only $10 a gal more than the T6 Rotella Diesel. So don't go by "price" you must go by "cost to product life" now if I added a Amsoil 2 micron oil bypass system I could probably make the oil go 100,000 miles before changing it out and do just filter changes. Do a true cost analysis according to the useable life of the oil you may find Amsoil ends up much cheaper and your have 2/3 less hydrocarbon impact on the environment.
I'm surprised that there was no mention of Amsoil & there products which usually rated number one by many other testers, any reason & were they included in your testing?
@@joshtaylor1416 Per Projectfarms extensive test, you're wrong, it ranked #1 among the oils tested, RedLine #2, and Pennzoil Ultra Platinum #3. You did zero research when when made your uninformed comment.
I have a 2019 Daytona Dodge Charger 392 scat pack, 6.4 hemi. Now, which synthetic oil would be the best for my car, especially with the winter months right around the corner, which one would best suit my needs? Note: I live in South carolina ? Please advise.....
Agreed, Pennzoil ultra Platinum... That's all I use in my Challenger and my wife's Camaro and also my wife's Camaro had a check engine light last year, it was a cam sensor And at the time no one had any in stock, I changed her oil and in about 30 minutes she called me and said the light was off and it has been off for a year, must have had some crud in the screen and Pennzoil cleaned it out.... And also I would probably change it at 5000, I do not wait until 10,000...
Follow the manufacturers recommendations. All the oils for the last 40-50 years are year round. The W stands for Winter. So a 5W30 acts like a 5 weight when cold and 30 weight when it's at operating temperature. Pennzoil Ultra is great. Just use the viscosity that's on the oil fill cap and make sure it's API rated.
Amsoil is the best you can get but it is expensive. If I can’t get Amsoil Penzoil is my 2nd choice. Mobile 1 would be my 3rd choice but would never do that 25k crap.
Extended drain capability is highly dependent on the engine. Amsoil Signature Series lab tested still viable at 18k miles on a 2005 3.5L V6 Chrysler 300(120K mi). 4K miles is about the limit on a 2017 Chevy Equinox 2.4L GDI(100K mi) due to fuel dilution.
The only good that comes out of video's like this, Is the conversations that it sparks in the comments section. Where people get to ask questions, share knowledge etc.
All oils on the market meet the API Standards, an engine will not perform any better with an expensive oil than an oil from Walmart. In fact independent testing has show that Mobil 1 did not do much better compared too the cheaper oils. Follow the owners manual with regular oil/filter changes and use the $s you´ll save too buy the kids ice cream.
And all these tests fail to note some modern engines (DI for one example) and high mileage engines need oil changes sooner due to fuel degrading the oil, regardless of how great or expensive the oil is at time of purchase.
Just realized that's a diesel engine. None, repeat NONE of these oils will work. You MUST use a diesel rated oil. IMHO, Shell Rotella is best. T5 or T6 definitely. Follow the manufacturers recommendations for viscosity. I didn't look it up but guessing it either 15W40 or 10W30. It'll be on the oil fill cap. Just make sure it's CK-4 API rated like all Shell oil is. If you use gasoline only rated oil, you're killing your engine.
I use Amsoil too. I'm not a certified Tribologist, but I am an oil geek. These know it all's that post these RU-vids like this one only usually only know what they read. I do oil analysis using Blackstone Laboratories. My Amsoil reports always come back showing that I could go much longer on the oil. I change yearly or whenever the engine goes down a quart, usually around 8K miles. Amsoil Signature Series cannot be beat by anyone. A VERY close 2nd is Shell T6 multi vehicle 5W30. It's a diesel rated plus SN for gasoline engines. Technically, it's not rated for newer GDI engines, but the additive package is really strong.
Good information. I wish it went further. * outcome of going from 0W-20 to 0W-40? Good or bad? * is changing oil once a year enough? Under 5000k miles per year. * many cold starts, low mileage yearly less than 3k, is oil change once a year enough?
Check out The Motor Oil Geek. It's Lake Speed Jr. He's a certified Tribologist and heavily involved in his families racing business. He's very informative. Also, if you want to really learn a lot, there's a forum called BITOG (Bob is the oil guy). Also check out the PQIA, Petroleum Quality Institute of America.
Depending on bearing clearance i would stick with manufacturing recommendations whats really important is making sure your engine gets up to operating temperature thus boiling off water oil vapor this moisture in the oil will cause sludge no short trips
Get an oil analysis from Blackstone Labs, roughly $45. Does the owners manual say you can use 0W40? And I'd only use that in the summer, under 68F 0W20 is fine, per every online oil viscosity chart, no pulled from some owners manual.
I use Schaefer's engine oil, they've been in business since 18 00s.. they're not the most fancy they don't really advertise they just make good products word of mouth is there advertisement.. they're not super expensive and they're not super cheap they're somewhere in the middle and I have nothing but good results personally.. All I can say is research them and go from there
Except none of these oils are synthetic. They are all group 3 hydrocracked mineral oils. How about a video on real synthetic oils, group 4 PAO or group 5 ester based oils like Amsoil, Motul, Schaeffer’s and others?
@@LeadStarDude Wrong, Penzoil Ultra premium GTL is classified as a group 3. Since the natural gas it is made from came out of an oil well, not a laboratory, it is NOT a synthetic. No matter what you call it. Do some research dude!
@@LeadStarDude Note true. You didn't do the research, Amosil PAO based, group 4, Redline Ester based, Group V, Pennzoil Ultra though a great oil is group III.
I can do three oil changes with Walmart super tech full synthetic oil compared to one Amsoil change. Clean oil is best oil. Walmart is blended by Warren oil a very reputable company. It is also API approved. Read the letters and numbers on all these jugs. Exactly same. I’ll match the inside of my Walmart super tech oil engine with any of these engines. .
castrol edge syn is best i known before saw this video. Kia soul oil consumption problems and this oil helps, drove 3500 only loss 1/8 qt sure cleaning out carbon depoists on oil rings in engine
Ignore this video. I'd say you engine is telling you all you need to know. Oil preference is TOTALLY subjective. As long as it's an API certified oil that meets the requirements in your owners manual, you're good. BTW, don't do extended changes like some owners manuals say. 5000 miles max or whenever the OLM light says to change.
Amsoil signature series is a group 4 PAO with a little group 5 ester mixed in for additive package soluablity. That is truly a synthetic man made product. Their OE line though is group 3 like all the others listed here.
What about Amsoil? What have they changed in their formulation recently? According to Ratblog540 Amsoil has gone from his #1,#2 high ranking to now it is at #34.
They seem to play around with their formula too much for my liking. So I have been asking for over a month now and got no answers from any Amsoil enthusiasts. What did they change in their formulation recently? Not that Ratblog 540 is the gospel or anything but Amsoil went from dominating his top 5 or 7 oil testing results to now when he retested a new bottle in the last month it dropped to like #54. Also why did Amsoil stop using the Donaldson filter media in their oil filters? Yes I know this happened quite a while ago however now Amsoil uses the same filter media as Royal Purple and Fram Endurance however costs a lot more. Other than the loooooong oil changes to try and justify the incredible over pricing of their product what am I gaining?
I'm switching from amsoil because my uoa had lead (Pb) content 10 ppm and oxidation level was through the roof. that's with 4500 miles / 9 months usage. quite disappointing.
Best oil I have ever used is 100% synthetic Motul 8100. by far. .I have a 2017 WRX with 14,000 miles on it. I can't tell the engine is running unless I glance at the tach at idle..
Royal Purple is vastly superior to sny of the oils mentioned in this videos having at least double the additives to protect and clean your engine as well as preferred by race teams.
Not true, look up Oil Championship with Projectfarm. He had an oil analysis done on every oil test. RP was actually disappointing because of its price. Maybe their racing oil? But that wasn't test on Projectfarm
Al narration is horrendous. These oils are all fine but never embrace extended oci, you will be sorry. The tests are done under ideal conditions not real world driving. Valvoline used to offer 250,000 mile warranty but you have to prove you changed it every 3-4k. Sells alot of oil but its cheap insurance. You think mobil 1 would offer the same with 20k changes?
This "study" lacks credibility, as it did not consider or include the best synthetic oil, Amsoil. Suggests there is a hidden agenda affecting the outcome of the comparison. Don't buy this hype folks, they're all good oils, but Amsoil is the best, hands down. Anybody can read off the labels as this guy did; probably never even heard of Amsoil.
You didn't mention how often you changed it, conventional every 3,000 or 3 months would do great. I don't want to change my oil that often, especially since it rains 8-10 months of the year.
Mobil1 has an excellent marketing and they fanatics, is not a bad oil but is others oils out there doing even better, the volatility of mobil1 in practical application is not the same they claims, mobile1 is probably an excellent oil for conventional engines but no the best option out there for turbos/GDI engines because they noack sucks.
All motor oils are engineered...am using ordinary shell motor oil for my Caprice, change oil ang filter every 3500 kilometers, I never used full synthetic motor oil, marketing strategy always too good to be true😂
Just whatched a vid where rotella whipped mobil 1 , I've been a fan of mobil 1 for a long time but you don't even have rotella in your list... must be a paid advert. guess I'm not watching this one
I've been using Amsoil for years, but with inflation and everything getting so expensive, I'm going to T6 multi vehicle 5W30. The additive package is strong!
Mobil one is the best, my car is 15 years old,engine is always brand new, i change every 8 to 10 thousand miles..buy it to costco when there is 10dollar off, 6 quarts for 43 dollar minus 10 dollar….its 33 dollars…
Full synthetic is a marketing gimmick. It has to say 100%, like Amsoil or Motul. Those listed above are blended. By definition in the USA, if it has .001% synthetic and 99.9 conventional oil, they can call it full synthetic. Read the Myth of the Mobil 1 v Castrol lawsuit
The way to test these oils is to use them in 5 different engines over a space of 5 years then strip them down and check for wear. No of this has been done, so this test doesn't really mean anything at all.
Not even close. Are you a certified Tribologist? Did you study the VOA's (virgin oil analysis from a laboratory like Blackstone) of these oils to compare their respective additive packages and TBN numbers? Amsoil Signature Series will blow every one of these out of the water. So will Shell Rotella T6 multi vehicle which is an HDEO with the SN rating for gasoline engines. At least you got the Pennzoil in the list. Royal Purple is WAY overated. This should be titled 5 mass marketed synthetics that will all work. Lastly, don't you realize that you'll get more consensus about politics than who's got the best oils?
Projectfarms testing has Redline #2 behind Amsoil a group IV oil. But, Redline had almost double the anti-wear additives of everyone else. Look up Oil Championships done by Projectfarm.
