TOP 5 JUNKYARD TURBO LS QUESTIONS FOR BEGINNERS! BUILDING A TURBO LS? WHAT ARE THE BEST QUESTIONS? 

OMG Skyline!!!!!!!!!1

Just quick reminder Every 4 stroke engine works off the same basic principles More flow is more better for peak power Average horsepower is typically morr important than peak power. Everh engine likes turbos E85 is always a good idea if you can properly compensate for it

Did the turbo install ever happen ?

To go as fast and no faster than everyone else doing the same Sloppy-style build, absolutely. If you want to be faster than average though, make a couple adjustments like jumping up to the next size turbo, injectors, fuel pump and/or down pipe. For example a 5.3 and a 70mm won’t make nearly as much as a 6.0 and an S480. Couple hundred extra horsepower for a couple hundred extra bucks… good stuff.

If weight matters the aluminum will probably be able to make as much as you want and weigh less but if you are selling one you will definitely get more from the aluminum

Where are you located? I wouldn’t mind having an aluminum block around the house.

@@briandrmoreau3710 SoCal currently

@@james10739 totally. Just figured a iron block is gonna do like 800-1000 and a aluminum is like 1700-2500 for the truck motors so more power. Weight isn’t a big deal it’s a car that I’ll just be fucking around with my son with

mathew-what aluminum 5.3l do you have-I want it

Better be on e85 😆

look at a Hot Rod cam from BTR or stage 1 turbo (lots of choices that can make 1000+ hp)

@@richardholdener1727 thanks, I believe no prep/back half of the track small tire racing is going to get really big in the next few years. Junk yard LS and turbos is going to be a good topic of discussion.

Worst case is your boost runs away from you because the waste gate can't release enough exhaust. (Bad)

@@KreatorOfDeath1985 The boost would be controlled by a blow off valve between intake and intercooler. Maybe you meant the back pressure? Surely it would need enough fuel for the back pressure to run away and the tune would sort that out? I’m thinking that every European car uses internal wastegates and I cant see it holding much back pressure against a decent sized turbo?

@@jamie_grieve Well... I suggest you do more research on how turbo systems work because controlling the boost is NOT what a blow off valve does/ will do. You may need an external wastegate from the sound of it.

You can make 500hp with that LQ4 without a turbo.

@@mrdrenalin69 This was going to be my suggestion. Ls3 heads intake and a medium/ large sized cam with 9.2:1 CR I make 420 wheel. With 14lbs I make around 730 wheel with pretty cut timing on 93.

that video is up

Yep watched that awhile back I recall square port flowed a nats azz more

IT CAN ALL STAY STOCK-EVEN THE CAM AND SPRINGS-UNLESS YOU WANT TO MAKE MORE POWER AT EVERY BOOST LEVEL

@@richardholdener1727 awesome! Thanks for the reply!

you need injectors, a bigger pump and tuning at a minimum-I would suggest ring gap

please rephrase-don't ask a question with the words thoughts in it

@@richardholdener1727 from your experience, would twin internally gated gt3076's on a stock ls1 be a good choice for 500hp

THERE IS NO WAY TO KNOW WHAT IS SAFE

yes

get a 5.3L, truck norris cam and a turbo

so far stock bottom end has gone to 1543 hp

you should get a GT45 for that power level

it will be fine at elevation, since you will be making less power (might have to tune the af)

@@richardholdener1727 Thanks!

4.8L, 5.3L and 6.0L (LQ4) junkyard ls motors don't have 10:1-problem solved

YES-I WOULD NOT RUN THEM SUSTAINED AT THAT LEVEL, BUT FOR SHORT BURST

a real garrett gt45 will support way more than 1000 hp

ls?

@@richardholdener1727 yes LS or LT new LT. I am assuming similar things.

I USE HOLLEY ECU

low boost turbo or blower works well

Any thing need to be done transmission wise. Thanks

I doubt it will hold

The 4L60E is the same transmission as the 4L60 and 700R4, with different cases, output shafts, and valve bodies. Most of the internals interchange between all of them. I build transmissions and I swap parts around between them often. For the layman, lets call them the same as far as torque capacity. I have run 700R4s behind a high compression E85 fueled Pontiac 455 making well over 550ftlbs with a flat torque curve, meaning its not 300ftlbs at 3000, its 540+ at 3000 and at 5000. I ran it the longest in a 65 GTO which weighs about 3400lbs, with a 3.42 gear behind it. They last two summers, about 4000 miles with the way I tend to beat on it. The 70 GTO is 4100lbs and it would last a bout a year. That car also broke Th400s with a 2.93 gear and 455s, not burned clutches, it broke hard parts and popped retaining rings out of clutch packs. Lots of grunt in a 4100lb car with a tall gear is a bit of a torture test for transmissions. Torque and weight find the weak links, minimal torque with lots of RPM brings different concerns, but chances are it won't exactly break the trans like towing a trailer or racing a heavy car. In a light car, say 2000 to 2800lbs with all the power being above 4500rpm, it will live longer, but they are definitely not a 1000hp trans... well, not for long. Why turbo or supercharge it if you only want 500hp? You can do that with a 6.0 swap pretty easy... according to Richard's videos. ;) I have done a lot to beef them up, servos, beast shells, valvebody mods, improved 3/4 packs, improved pumps and pressures, and they always start slipping going into 3rd. Drive it like a sensible person and they will live a long time. Beat on it, and 3/4 will go away, unless you really break something. Pumps tend to break too, like happened to the 60E behind the LS1 in my 98 Formula. It had 140k on it, and I did not baby that car, but for years it was my long distance economy car for going home 1500 miles on leave. The sunshells can crack, some builders always put them in, others never put them in, I will if its going in a vehicle that will be making power and getting driven hard or towing. I have a bunch of 99-07 Silverados with 60Es in them. The servo applies the band with more force so it can hold more when its applied. The 3/4 clutches are weak no matter what you do. Just not enough real estate in there to make them as beefy as a Th400/4L80E which for the layman can be considered the 3 speed and 4 speed OD version of the same trans, not much interchanges, though they're the same basic design. If you have the space to use one a 4L80 is your best bet with 500ftlbs or more and you want OD, otherwise go with the Th400 if you don't need OD. A gear vendors OD on the back of a Th400 is a very good option, but they get pricey, need a much shorter driveshaft, and more space in the trans tunnel which may or may not be available without hacking things up. If you don't mind rebuilding the trans all the time, and you learn to do it yourself, the first one is roughly $1000 in parts, then its $300 or so to freshen it when you burn clutches and bands from slipping. 700R4/4L60 with the TV cable are a bit touchy to rebuild, I have mixed results with them. The 60E doesn't have the same issues, mainly in the valvebody, because the ECM controls them. The going joke about the 7004R/4L60 is that they have reverse and five neutrals, or everything up to 2nd then three neutrals. If you have a 4th gen F body, you will break the rear end unless you have already replaced it with something bigger, 12 bolt, Dana 60, 9"... ask how I know.

​@@SweatyFatGuy Wow dude! What a great reply! I've got a 03 vette bone stock 2.73 rear diff 70k miles. I was thinking of going the forced induction with 3.42s route to maintain stock-like drivability (its not my only car but I DO drive it to work every day I can, weather permitting). I would like to have some fun on the street and have the ability to run it at the track for 1/4 every once and a while and 500hp/500ft seems like a very easily achievable number with a super charger and little else. I'm a pretty sensible person, I don't drive like a maniac, but I do like to WOT every once in a while on the back roads. I'm guessing the 3.42s and supercharger is playing to close with fire for the 4L60E based on your experience?

@@smykster007 if it never hooks, it will live longer lol. The corvette has slightly improved stuff in the trans. Servos, etc. You could try it, and after a rebuild or two you'll know the limits. 3.42s will help over 2.73, and a 3000 to 3600 stall if you stay na would probably get you low 12s. Sounds glib, but in the end is only parts and money. 2200 to 2800 stall with boost, it will make more power down low.

Do a 4L80E one time and be done.

you made 427 whp with a stage 4 truck cam?

@@richardholdener1727 yes sir. Holley split intake with 4150 throttle body. With prc stage 2.5 58cc cylinder heads.

yes-with good fuel or e85 and an intercooler and proper exhaust size

$4K-$5K on a DIY turbo kit-you are off by a factor of 5

@@richardholdener1727 One could do it for $1000? I don't understand how, when the tune is $550 all by it's self. Would make a great video. I know you don't address costs as they very so much depending on resources and talent. But I would be interested in some real world costs....

Depends where you go and who you know. Im in battle ground Washington and a tune for us is 300.

s475 or 7875-you need ring gap

@@richardholdener1727 thanks for the reply. I’m space limited so I don’t see a s475 sized turbo fitting without cutting the structure of the car but I’ll do some measuring.

gt3076s

​@@richardholdener1727 what turbochargers should I use not cheap but inexpensive

I ANSWERED ALREADY

BOOST

Where should I go affordable n thank you for the reply back I'm sure ur a busy man I enjoy watching u really know ur &hit

HOW MUCH POWER DO YOU PERSONALLY WANT TO MAKE

@@richardholdener1727 I want a cam that will make the best power with the setup I have right now. Maybe get a fast intake later on. I was considering a Sloppy Best Cam. Or do you think another option would be better?

@@richardholdener1727 was also considering a Texas speed 228R cam

THERE IS NO BEST POWER WITH YOUR COMBO-TAKE A LOOK AT THE MANY VIDEOS UP ON 5.3L BUILDS AND PICK THE CAM THAT GIVES YOU THE POWER CURVE YOU WANT

is it an emissions certified turbo kit? or a possibly an after cat remote turbo?

🎉That's a impossible question to answer tuning, gas, how it's driven, maintenance and how good the parts from the factory, how much power it makes before you start with which will dictate how much power you have in the end and back pressure all come into play. I put a forged bottom end on my twin turbo 5.3 and running 10 pounds it makes around 750 but it's a street car so I wanted reliability more than max power.

@@lucasmullins5100 yeah it's a weekend fun car that's what I was looking at wether to forge the bottom end or at the very least put some gen4 rods in it ,and look for around 600 to the wheels

strength wise you are fine-but with a cam that is a lot of power, if using stock cam, then add a cam and turbo boost down

yes it will work with a turbo

thanks man, all the way from New Zealand. man i love watching your stuff since buying my holden. i just brought a gt3582 last night while watching this exact video hoping to see this reply. haha@@richardholdener1727

CAMERA THAT WILL WITHSTAND 1000+ DEGREE?

What's 507 heads?

Here's my 2 cents. Just run the 706 heads. Run the truck Norris or a similar summit pro ls cam. Long tube headers with a good tune and you will be running good

Oh yeah ls6 springs. What car is it going in?

@@jmullis78ify sorry. I keep calling a 706 head a 507. No idea why. Arrrrg. I fixed it in comment. Thanks

@@jmullis78ify oh yea definitely a spring upgrade. How important is a machine shop clean/ check or can I do that myself? I can sand/plane the deck but how important is having cylinders honed? Honestly I don’t have a car to put it in, but will look for anything “easy and low cost” for an LS engine. Any recommendations?

then we have all learned

we don't take the alum ls3 blocks over 1000 hp usually

sometimes

@richardholdener1727 I'm thinking on buying the btr stage 2 turbo cam and thats the only concern I have is about the pushrods. Its going to be installed on a ls2 engine

it is bigger than I would use

@@richardholdener1727 so stick with this btr Nsr stage 4 truck cam an it will do good with my new 7875 vs racing turbo? What springs do you recommend I know said to upgrade anyway? Btr just me told wouldnt be good combo at all because of overlaps is so big.

@@richardholdener1727 what would you recommend

True, but you can adjust the tune and boost level to whatever fuel you want to run at any given time (within reason).

The horsepower level determines what fuel you will run

@@jasonhaschert1797 and the fuel people have available to them determines how much power they can make. Goes both ways

Very true. A lot of people may only have 93 available and are going to struggle compared to someone running e85 or race fuel. There is a point where turning up the boost is just not an option.

Wish I had access to quality e85 closer to me. Still a rarity in my area without driving 20 miles to a no name gas station

meziere

WATCH THE L83 AND OTHER LT1 VIDS

Many people do run a stock ecm.

You have a lot of research to do if this is one of your questions, pretty much any stock LS ecu is tune-able to over 1kwhp. But an aftermarket ecu will be more reliable at higher power levels because of all the safeties that can be set up

yes u can run stock ecu-watch sloppy mechanics

flywheel

yes-but aluminum would be better

@@richardholdener1727 okay cool deal. 243, 241, 317, 862 heads. Does it matter which one of these heads I use for boost?

yes

I have K series videos up-I wrote a book on them as well as two others on B & D series. I made a few custom Miata intakes.

A lot of overthinking. I've been running turbo 6.0s on the street for 10 years. Always with different variants of the 7875 turbo. You do not need ported heads or the tbss j Intake to make that power level. If you add those things you will just have to turn the boost down. Everyone who says they want low end power or quick spool has never had a fast car. That amount of low end power cannot be put to the ground with any drivetrain combination. Also ported heads will move the power band up not down. You do not need to build a 4l80 for that power level and you should try a stock one with the transgo shift kit until it breaks. Watch sloppy mechanics and see the countless cars he dynos and runs with 600-1000rwhp on stock 4l80s. I have never broken one.

​@@chipcurrey653 I've heard too many bad things about the transgo shift kit plate leaking, and the pressure release. I'm refreshing an old 4l80e and I'm going to build it the way most trans guys do it by dual feeding internally. It's cheap anyways to go through and put some new clutches and seals in. not building it any more than that and my local transmission guy also recommended that I just go through it if I'm going to put power through a 150K mile transmission. TBSS intake is cheap will aid power and it's easier to get injectors for but I'll see, not something I need. I'm sure I'm going to learn a lot, I do understand that its hard to put down good low-end torque. it's still going to be hard to put 600 - 800 hp down even at 40mph. Thanks for the turbo recommendation just got to figure out ratios. Ya, I just got to do it, and not think to crazy about it. Once the spring comes and the weather is nice I'll get working on it Is it even worthwhile to cam it at that point? I know I'll need valve springs no matter what.

@@jacobvanhalteren7452 even a small camshaft significantly cuts cylinder pressure/dynamic compression ratio which really helps avoid knock on pump gas. I did run my first turbo lq4 with the stock cam and ran into detonation at fairly low boost and didn't think the power band was like a performance car at all. Seemed like it ran out of steam before 5k rpm. The thing people overthink is which cam. I've tried several and I think anything between 220-230 @ .050 and 500-600 lift seems about the same in practice

@@chipcurrey653 Thanks, then I'll probably go for a slightly larger cam to lower the DCR a bit maybe a TSP stage 3 or 4. I don't really want to run 91 but if I have to I will. 89 would be nice, I doubt I could get it to run well on 87. I hate the idea of dishing out 30$ extra for every tank with the fuel prices in Canada. perhaps some windshield washer injection might help with that too since I can get lots for free from work. I appreciate you sharing your expertise, thanks

If you run an FMU, it will

.028-.030

WHY NO INTERCOOLER? AND 91?

@@richardholdener1727 I’m not sure if we have 93 octane?intercooler just is a lot more work and have to have room for it.Was thinking almost always just be a short burst of boost on the street so maybe could make it work?? Maybe not a good idea

Terrible combination and idea

@@chipcurrey653 how do you know mr big brain 🧠 have you tried it?? Bet not keyboard cowboy in you parents basement 😂😂😂😜😜

@@chipcurrey653 are you chocolate chip or tater chip lol 😂 I’ll

diesel

In Soviet Russia, squirrels blame you!

@@michaelblacktree lol my wife is from Russia... I totally agree with you 😅

The 4.8 is going in my 93 c1500, the 5.3 will go in my 75 cobra II, the 6.0 goes in my eliminator jet boat.

The 4.8 and 5.3 will use the btr hot rod cam, the 6.0 will use the btr stage 4 turbo cam.

Are you gonna turn the 6.0 into a 408 cause the stage 4 is a big cam for 6.0 but that hot rod cam is a good cam

@@lucasmullins5100 not initially, we’re going to see how it the boat likes it before I spend more $$ internally.

@@lucasmullins5100 What engine management are you running on your build?

ASK AWAY

YES

Thank you and thank you for sharing all of your knowledge with us.