I have a 2003 sr5 6cyc that needs a lot of work.I love my truck. I have A hard time keeping up with getting my truck fixed. I miss my truck being cherry. There's a lot of haters out here.
Just hit 395,000 miles on my 2003 Tundra, best truck I've ever owned! Luckily I've had none of the 5 issues mentioned. Thanks for posting this informative video! Thumbs up!
You're lucky. I got an 05 V8 SR5. One damn problem after another. Had to replace the rack and pinion within 5 years. A couple of years ago I had to replace the starter, driveshaft, and U-joints all at the same time. Now there is a leak somewhere in the radiator because my coolant is going... somewhere. The secondary air pump also needs to be replaced. That, and I haven't driven it in a couple of years because of all of the issues, so the tires I'm sure need to all be replaced and have the oil system cleaned out, brakes/calipers, AND a full tune-up. Ugh, I hate being an adult.
@@TheJokesterSCR Oh wow! I have an 05 V8 SR5 Double Cab and the only issues I've had with mine was needing the U-joints changed (not by Toyota who claims you must replace the entire driveshaft) and batteries, and now my back window doesn't roll down (ran across this while just watching all sorts of videos on the 1st gen Tundras while looking for videos on that rear window). I've got 155k miles on it. Thank goodness mine has been awesome to me. I feel bad for you having so many issues with yours though.
I had a 2000 and a 2006 Tundra. The 5 biggest problems in the northeast is 1, rust. 2, rust. 3, rust. 4, rust. 5, rust. Pretty much all issues resulted from that despite all frame recalls, scaling undercoating etc.....including the exhaust manifold in the 2000, and I went though two power steering racks in the ‘06. Also the usual sensors, ball joints, broken leaf springs, rusted gas tank straps, and so on and so forth. Even with that said, the 2006...or last year for first generation Tundra with 4 doors, 4WD, V-8 TRD package was the best truck ever created for the average Joe or Jane. Mine went 214k and I sold it to my mechanic who had the wherewithal to keep it on the road as his daily driver.
I have a 2006 tundra sr5 with the 4.0l V6. I have had no problems with it whatsoever . The only thing is normal routine maintenance of course. I've had it for 16 years and looking forward to another 16 years, Awesome truck!!!
20 happy trouble free years & 335K with my 4.7 Tundra Thank you Japan for adopting lessons from the great Dr. Deming. Right after Detroit foolishly slammed the door in his face !
Thanks for your video. I would like to add number 6: Front brakes were engineered too small. Toyota put out a service letter about it and was upgrading the calipers and pads for free during the original warranty period. You may not have noticed this if you never towed or never drove in the mountains. But if you towed in the mountains, you would definitely know it. Down right dangerous! I upgraded mine at NAPA for around $200 with core returns. Much better!
Ah yeah, 218k on my 02 4.7 rwd and runs great! Front rotors and upgraded calipers / front stabilizer link / radiator/ exhaust manifold... rearend rusted out and finally ruined the diff, but had been backed into salt water a bunch with first owner. I got a used one with 450k and it is perfect. Love it so much i'm getting it painted!
Had the Strawberry Milkshake...Caught it early. Most important advice I got from an old mechanic. Flush it and over flush it with this cheap fluid and then replace with factory fluid. Flushed it with 60 gallons of cheap. After that drop the pan new seal. Add a separate cooler to avoid the mess later. This job was a mess and I cried in my garage once. You want the pump to pull the fluid thru to flush it. Years later and all is good. When I put it in gear I get the satisfaction of being lucky.
@@brettstover1850 do you think they’d replace mine now? Lol mine never got recalled and it looks awful sadly. Love love love my truck, but the frame is sadly rusted to hell.
6. Thin vertical windshield is a stone magnet. 7. Steering column rust. 8. Drivers door handle mount 9. Rear leaf springs. 10. Frame rust recall. 11. Hood latch. 12. ABS speed sensor. 13. Door lock actuators. Many of these are just maintenance, but being an original 06 Tundra owner, 178k in town work miles, rust belt state, have fixed all the above issues. Still the best truck on the road. Just keep an eye out for these things as well. Budget for tires and gas, especially on the crew cab.
Just got a 2006 access cab with 90k miles in 2023. I had the steering rack replaced, the brakes, the lifted suspension, the tires, the axles, the timing belt/water pump and the exhaust. Had the bottom undercoated and its in for a paintjob now. Also changed the headlights and added 12 hole injectors. It already had an intake. Hoping to keep it for at least 200k more miles.
Steel stik fixes cracked manifolds. Just make sure to go past the crack about an inch, and use a putty knife or utility razor to pack the crack SLIGHTLY. Steel stik is different from the metal the manifold is made of, therefore it will expand and shrink at different rates and temperatures. Over packing can actually cause your crack to expand dramatically.
Brilliant work there, thank you for getting all those possible problems listed in such a short time. One serious problem I had was the mice or baby rats got up under the top cover and chewed up my smog sensor wiring, and that is a big problem to fix as one has to take the whole top off to be able to get to the problem. They actually chewed the sensor wires off to make a nest under my hood. Very common problem it appears. That was on my 2006 Toyota Tundra 427 standard cab truck. Thank you again, guy, well done.
Thanks for the info on the 1st gen Tundras. Very informative & great content. Looking forward to more. BTW....I have a 03 SR5 Tundra access cab. with 617,000K on it's. The best truck I've ever owned & gonna try to get the holy grail # 1 million mile mark on the original drivetrain.
nice i have a 2002 that just hit 400k and it still runs and drives better than a new truck and i know people say that but its true. original everything besides brakes tires etc
@spartacusnow lol excuse me? who's profits? certainly not my own and that's the only one I care about. definitely not concerned with the finances of nameless, faceless corporations that also couldn't care less about me also, Toyota did buy back a one million mile Tundra from it's owner.... on two separate occasions. so there's that. it is also kind of an honor. the trucks are now on display.
I did have the ball joint issue on my 2000 Tundra but odd problem was the rear axel bearings went bad which surprised the mechanics which also caused the ABS system act up. Thought I had warped front brake disc turned out the ABS sensors were dirty due to leaking axel grease. No problem with the exhaust manifold maybe it's because I have the TRD stainless steel headers installed when they first came out. Informative video,
Head over heels for my 2003 Sequoia!! Best rig I've ever had, by far!! Just rolled 234,567 last Sunday. It was a memorable moment, lol. Timing Belt went out, but PTL it didn't lock up my engine, so replaced last year. O2 sensors next, but other than that, it's been a dream!!! Can't imagine driving anything else, EVER!!!
What an awesome video! I'm actually in the market for a first GEN tundra and watching this video gave me a bunch of tips to look for when buying. The host is very well spoken and gives great descriptions of all the problems! Thanks for the help!
#7: Frame Rust - Toyota Recall/Rework Toyota "Inspected" and "Reworked" the Frame on my 2005 Tundra (SR5, 4.7L V-8, 4X4, Double Cab, TRD) to address a Frame Rust issue that can result in Frame Failure. The Dealer we purchased our Tundra from (new) performed the inspection and "Repairs" to address the condition they found. They deemed our Tundra's Frame to be in the condition that only required them to spray the Frame with their approved coating. Within a short period, we had RUST coming out from behind the coating the Toyota Dealer applied to keep the Frame from rusting! We expressed our concern that the "Repair" performed to address a DEFECT in workmanship and/or materials was not working and seemed to make it worse than before! We brought it to the attention of both the Toyota Dealer and Toyota USA on multiple occasions and were told, "your Tundra has been REWORKED and nothing else can be done". Our Tundra has 97,000 actual, one owner miles on it. It's in excellent condition. People who see it, can't believe it's a 2005. Every time we bring it in for service we ask the Toyota Dealer to inspect the Frame to ensure our Frame is not going to fail due to this defect, the invoice does not reflect our request for inspection. When asked about it, we get a verbal "it's OK". We love both of our Toyota's (with this issue being the exception). MANY customers have complained the REWORK did NOT work and get new Frames installed by Toyota. We are going to need a new vehicle soon. It's safe to say, we are looking at all of our options. Hey TOYOTA... make it right, fix your mistake on our Toyota Tundra!!!
There's a company called Hewitt technology they sell a bypass smog pump easy diy plug in, its cheaper than spending thousands replacing the actual secondary air pump. My car would make a loud whistle on startup now it dosent. No more check engine light either.
Fyi the secondary air pump problem is for 05-06 they didn’t have them before 05. How you didn’t mention frame rot is unbelievable as it’s probably one of the most serious and common issues. You probably should have mentioned timing belt and i only say this as there are a lot of 1st gen tundra owners who dont even realize the 4.7 has one.
Honestly the timing belt is an owner problem. If you don't know if your car has a belt or chain forsure, that's on you lol. Plenty of V8s of all manufacturers had the belt
Had same problem with manifold..... did change oil and ad 2 pints of Lucas oil with my regular oil, no more cracking noise in the morning, it's been 3 years now and no problem.
2000 Tundra with 180k. I do a drain and fill on my transmission fluid every other oil change. Uses no oil. Dealer replaced front rotors because of warping. Second set warped also. I bought a drilled rotor set with no problem since. I plan to upgrade my front brakes and calipers on the next pad change to POWER STOP KC232436 $400 because I tow a travel trailer with mine. Had to change the radiator a few months ago. Window motor on drivers side went out about a year ago. Changed ball joints to prevent known failure. Changed timing belt 2x. Changed serpentine belt 2x with pulley time change to prevent failure. Changed a front O2 sensor about 10 years ago. All this is normal for a 22 year old truck. It's a great truck with no big issues so far. I have foolishly been looking at new trucks. The new Tundra is butt ugly and I have been eyeing a Ford.....but I just can't do it because I know I will regret it. I'll just keep my old tundra until the market comes back down. I'm not even sure the new Tundra will be dependable with the turbo V6.
I love the 1st gen Tundra!!! My dream Tundra is a 06 with low miles and super clean it has to be bluesteel metallic and a double cab but those are very rare and expensive, also im looking for an 00-06 tundra access cab so that it isnt to expensive anywhere in florida under 4-5k thanks guys!
I have an 03, caught the radiator problem prior to failure. After driving it for an hour, got home shut it off and as I walked by the front end I heard a very faint hiss. It was a sound you could tell wasn’t normal. I was able to isolate it, ordered a factory replacement radiator and swapped it just shy of 2 hrs. Seems ridiculous that Toyota used plastics in the radiator 😒 Love my truck though 🤙
In a day of inflated new truck prices, mt choice lead me to buy a '05 because of my research online made me to lean towards finding and buying either a '05 or '06 because of their high reliability ratings. 1 week in and glad I made the right decision.
I have a 2006 V8 model and it currently has 260,000 miles and I have not had any problem whatsoever since I had this truck. I’ve replaced parts over the years just to stay ahead of it but I have not had any transmission repair or work done whatsoever and the transmission in this truck feels exactly the same as it did the day I drove it off the lot.
The PCV valve connects to the throttle body and sucks oil and dumps it into the cylinder #2, drivers side front cylinder. The fix is either an oil catcher/separater, or a "T" and run another vacuum hose to the top of the intake where there are unused vacuum ports. Otherwise you will clog up O2 sensors. I figured this out when changing a starter which is under the intake manifold 😳, but fortunately they last a long time if you replace with a factory Denso starter. Tucson Alternator and Starter remanufactures just Denso starters and alternators and I have never had an issue with one of their parts.
05 V8 2WD 145K: missing oil pan seal, broken oil jet, lower ball joints, fuel tank level sensor, timing belt, brake master cylinder, brake booster (twice), radiator, air injection system (fan and valves), valve cover gaskets. Fun truck, only stranded me once in 18 years...
I got my 01 tundra 4.7 with 150 thousands now about to hit the 400 s and i never replace anything other than batteries, oil and tires and one tume all the fluids and never replaced the timing belt and or water pump
very informative,.. getting ready to possibly but a 2002 tundra and am researching what to look for and examine in my prebuy inspection,,. After your and others videos I plan on taking it to my mechanic for a full inspection..yours was pretty much the best and informative but I think the timing belt should hve bee discussed, and, if your into suggestions, slow down in your rush to what, get more in in less time, ?, not sure, but you made me nervous with the frantic nature of your speech. But, still great info. thanks, Larry…
My 2006 4.0 Tundra(105k miles), just started giving me a very loud exhaust noise ,ck engine light on, codes:P0455 Evaporative Emission Control System leak Detected(Gross Leak),Evaporative Emission System Leak Detected(gross leak/no flow),P0037: H02S Heater control circuit low(Bank 1 & sensor 2),P0441:Evaporative Emission System Incorrect Purge Flow. Will start with.....replacing PCV valve as the most affordable troubleshooting step. PS: Any Tips/suggestions welcomed.
thanks very much for your videios, I have a possible crankshaft positioning sensor problem, it only seems to be a problem when its really cold out, any way to test that? thank you
2011 Honda Odyssey . Front end problems . Brake issues . Paint peeled off. Need help. I enjoyed the 5 problems found on 2001 Toyota Tundra video. Thank you
No mention of the rusting power steering and brake line rusting and springing leaks? This is a big problem with these trucks...especially when the OEM parts for the power steering lines are outrageously expensive.
Typically the 4.7 V8 secondary air pump replacement costs over $1,000 to replace and is complicated if not DYI, and I never heard of this air pump (if it exists) failing on the 3.4L V6
I have an 08 mercury grand marquis I hear a ticking noise in the engine but I heard it on passenger side of the engine, I hear the noise in a cold weather in the morning, I changed the oil and there was no metal came out, maybe the exhaust manifold, I'm going to check if it's the exhaust manifold
Thanks for the video! 1A Auto videos have helped me out plenty of times with multiple vehicles. I'm glad my '06 tundra hasn't had any of these issues (or any for that matter) and runs like new at 200k, the frame is a whole different issue. Do y'all have any frame repair type videos? If not, I get it with liability and all.
I'm considering getting a 2002 Tundra for around 2,000 from a local seller, claims it runs good but idles hard/rough so to me that leads me to believe it might have a vacuum leak of some sort so just wondering if it would be a good investment or just a bad money pit
Awesome video! Do I need to replace the "radiator tank" (transmission cooler) on the top of the radiator? Or do I just change the entire radiator? Not sure if the first question is even possible haha.
Got an 01’ driveline carrier bearing with a short lift is my Achilles heel. Odometer says 260K closer to 300K because it has oversized tires most of its life
I have the 2001Tundra 4wd and I have the exhaust leak really bad and one shop quoted me $1,600.00 to fix it. I live in Colorado and don't know the rules but I'm going to check and see if they can replace the stock exhaust with a set of stubby headers, good video thanks for the info.~~~
+Mark Ferrell Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
2002 Ford 3500 4X4 Superduty -- I have a strange noise every once in a while coming from the left front hub that I assume has to be the wheel bearing or race. The noise is about 2 to 3 seconds in duration and is usually set off by a bump in the road. I parked the truck after the last time I heard the noise because I actually felt a little bit of drag on the forward momentum when the sound occurred. This noise has a spin-up and then a slowing stop tone to it. I've never heard any noise that I can equate it to. Thanks for the great content you guys produce....
+Toyota Tundra04 We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
My Camry was doing that. It wouldn’t unlock my driver door with the remote NOR the unlock button inside. For me, I replaced the door lock actuator and it fixed this issue.
It did for me. Traded a Gibson LPJ to a friend to spend a day fixing it, only to break the studs on the intake… $50 low mileage eBay intake find later and it runs like new at 175,000 miles.
I have a 2006 SR5 RWD with 95k miles and it has clean spots on the lower arm where the bump stop constantly bottoms out. Had it looked at and they couldn't find a problem. Is that normal for these trucks?
Why didn't you mention all 1st gen toyota trucks not only Tundra but also Tocoma and 4runner, etc had Free safety recall replacements for lower ball joints, and thousands of Tundras also had Full Frame replacements do to inferior quality steel. Shame on Toyota to have this for over 6 years. Not the Toyota they use to be and, why such bad rusting metal on exaust manifolds where they crack and bolts rot off? Cars have had exaust manifolds for 100 years without this problem. All my cars from my 1955 chevy through th 60's 70's and 80s never had this rusting problem And I Iived at the Ocean front in NY. I have owned 52 vehicles in my life so far including Chevy and GMC trucks, 4runners,Tacoma but never a Tundra. I like them but I will look for a 3.4l V6 Stick Shift and sunshine state owned only.
Careful disconnecting the battery. I changed a battery out and the damn thing stalled at red lights. Turned out you gotta make a few trips for the old ass computer in it to get your engine settings correct again. Drive it in the hwy for 15 minutes if you change the battery. I had an oz sensor go bad and got a timing belt 8k miles ago on a 2002 tundra. 310k miles. I've owned 1500s and F150s. They usually start screwing the pooch at 150-200k miles. Tundras go 300k plus. It's a fact.
It reverted back to factory settings, when you took the battery out. Next time, simple clean the throttle body. Both sides of the butterfly plate,as best you can, and the throttle body wall. If you do this, it will run as normal. I clean my throttle body and the mass air flow sensor, once a year. 362000 on a 2002, and it still runs like new.
Hi brother I got a problem , mi tundra 2001 got like a delay to start ( run ) engine at the begining , at soon the engine is on its ok runs realy well , I already change the oxigen sensor both , full filter and the spark plugs . But steal having the problem , it take like 3 to 4 time to start and run . What could be ?
So, I have a symptom in my 05 Tundra with only 88K miles on it. It went into limp mode. I ran a scanner which only pulled up the secondary air pump as an issue. But you didn't mention the truck being in limp mode as one of the symptoms, so I'm wondering if there may be another issue. I don't want to pay $2000 to get it fixed and my truck still be in limp mode. Anybody else have this issue? Honestly, I never did take great care of the truck because I was young and really just could never afford the maintenance. I don't know if it's even worth it at this point because I've had all kinds of problems and it may just be too much to try and get fixed all at once along with the cost of a full tune-up. I already had to replace the U-Joints, driveshaft, power steering reservoir, rack and pinion... I have a leak somewhere in the radiator so that needs tobe replaced along with the secondary pump, and who even knows what else. The repairs will probably cost as much as the truck is worth. Damn it, I wish I would have learned mechanics.
So I got a 1st gen tundra I’ve noticed that my overflow tank goes from F to L really fast and I’m not sure why. No milky oil and no coolant leak at idle or anything like that. Anybody know if this is normal or something I should get checked out?
My Dad gave me his Toyota Tundra SR5 V6 3.4 L that has only 26,000K miles and the orgiginal radiator is staring to leak due to corrosion (it is Denso made). I have to replace the radiator.
#1 - Nobody checks the timing belt. #2 - Nobody checks the oil. #3 - Nobody checks the ball joints. #4 - Nobody checks the frame. #5 - People buy trucks who should never have one. #6 - Toyotas are too reliable.
