Which is your favourite looking route? These are some of the best lines from our recent trip to the moab area (Indian Creek and the North Wash.) There are more in depth videos to come from the area on routes such as No Way Jose, Supreme Manliness, Frank Zappa and Ruby's Cafe. Check out our Wide Boyz Shop here www.wideboyz.com and our full trip ticklist (5.13 and above) below: Tom (3 weeks) @tompaulrandall: Tricks Are For Kids, 13c No Way Jose, 13c Zebra's and Moonbeams, 13- Ruby's cafe, 13- Sacred cow, 13- OS Pete (5 weeks) @petewhittaker01: Fraid line, 13a Surfs on, 13a Final Eviction, 13a/b Frank zappa, 13+ Blood Pulse, 13- OS Death of a cowboy, 13- Ruby's cafe, 13- F Sacred cow, 13- F Half man, half shark alligator, 13- The Queen, 13- OS No way Jose, 13c Desert finger bone, 13- Wapiti, 13- F Zebras and moonbeams, 13- F Montana weed connection, 13 Fairy Tales, 13- OS Pats blue ribbon, 13- OS Optimator, 13 Flavour Blasted, 13- F Winner takes all, 13- OS Supreme manliness, 13- F Mari (5 weeks), @mariaugustahs: Belly Full of Bad Berries, 13- F ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-jEQ-46aPIFg.html Price of Evil, 13 Wapiti, 13- F Pat's Blue Ribbon, 13- Ruby's Cafe, 13- Mary (3 weeks), @tradprincess Tricks are for Kids, 13c Sacred Cow, 13- F
This video feels very informative and focused! Not one I think I’d show a non-climbing friend for their first piece of climbing media but I very much enjoyed this more climbing-heavy video!
chipped it many years ago. then I was trying really hard on a route in Indian Creek and bit out the glue on bit, haha dentist appointments are slow, I'm getting it fixed soon :)
Great to see Tom back on the rock. Thought he might be locked in the cellar!? :-) This looks like an amazing location and for you crack climbers an absolute dream playground. Glad you enjoyed it and nailed so many routes
Love your videos! In the cellar or out in the wilds, they're all good and an inspiration to this middle aged trad dad. Glad your trip to the US was a success, (sorry you hit eldo in during the only snow in a month).
Great climbing with y'all, and shout out to Dave Marcinowski, who did the first free ascent of the second pitch of The Queen, plus he's the only person to send the link up of pitches 1 + 2.
I love watching you guys climb in Indian Creek and other great sandstone areas in Utah. I hope you'll be able to come back next year. If you also did an event, or even a type of meet and great with merch in Salt Lake I for one would show up with cash to support you and get everything signed.
I live about an hour and a half from Indian Creek so imagine how excited I was to find out my favorite climbing team was filming there. Thanks for the awesome content!
So great, I'm just back home from working a, for me hard , 28m finger/small hands/ringlock crack. My Finger and forearms still hurt. Now watching these ridiculous cracks you pulled there was amazing. Good job!
I love all your videos, fam, but these kinds are my favorite. Also, i have the same thing with my tooth! Chipped many years ago skateboarding and the glue wore down and it popped out again a couple years ago. Rocked the hillbilly look for a while 🤣
After a trip to the Creek how have you found the paddle technique working out? There was a lot of talk in the video about the good 'ol ring-lock. Interested to hear your perspective as that's one of the biggest things from the WideBoys youtube era. I've found for me a ring-lock with the high hand and a paddle with the low hand works pretty well, especially if the crack is offset. It may also be the case that paddling works better for roofs where as ring-locks are better for vert (makes sense to me because the lock uses gravity to make it more passive but you can't do that in a roof--likewise since paddles are much more active and pumpy, paddling your way up a 40m crack sounds downright miserable) Also, I hope to god there is a video of Mari on Price of Evil, that is a legendary ascent! Also, also, I believe the original name is Half Shark-Alligator Half Man after a 90's hip-hop record. It was listed incorrectly on MP until recently...can't remember what it's called in the Kelley book. Also, also, also, Ruby's is pretty much consensus 12+ and is regarded as originally being over-graded b/c of it's 'sporty' finish which is outside regular Creek style. Still an absolute classic line with tons of history and deserves all the praise it gets
The paddle is a game changer. Like you say when the crack is offset then very useful for the bottom hand and then ring lock top hand. I know Tom used it on Master Blaster as well whereas everyone else who has done it has ring locked it. I guess everything has it's place and it doesn't work for all sizes of course (only bigger ring locks, and offsets). I also used a few paddles through the greens section on optimator as well (although mainly ringlocking) There is only shakey belay footage of mari on Price of Evil, not anything decent. But yes it's one of the most impressive offwidth ascents for sure. It only took her 4 sessions, which is quick. In the creek guide, I think the 'half man' name is the incorrect way round, compared to what you are saying, so good knowledge there. Haha yeh Ruby's is always being debated, I've just taken all grades/names/etc from the guidebook to keep it all consistent and from one source. Great little route though Hope you enojyed the vid :)
At some point, I would love to see a video about how you film the climbing. I’m especially curious about how the camera people get to the anchor to film from above!
On things like Ruby's cafe Tom warmed up on the route by doing all the sections individually and then pulled a seperate rope up. I then jumared the rope and filmed from the top. On things like the Queen, I onsighted it, so when I got to the anchor i pulled up a second rope,Mary jumared up, then I reclimbed the sections for film. When I filmed Mari on Belly Full of Bad Berries (seperate video), I aided the route and then filmed her first go. There are lots of different ways 🙂
Ah thanks for the reply! That all makes sense. Yah I figured you weren’t always just having someone climb the route beforehand, especially on the super hard routes.
Me with my tiny fingers: maybe Ruby's Cafe will be my first 5:13-! I've still got a long ways to go for that, but tips for most people are finger locks for me. Your perfect hand jams are my off-hands though, so I don't want to hear any complaining.
Always such fun, inspiring content!! Thanks a lot Tom and Pete! Would love to hear your opinion on what shoes work well for the different sizes of crack. Wondering what shoes you were wearing for rand smearing? Haven't found any content that discusses this online :o Personally I find that some shoes, like TC pros, are a bit big, and I'm looking for beta to send my own (tips, finger and paddle - sized) desert projects :)
you have to make that judgement, but usually its pretty obvious. and if they are stainless steel bolts, they take many many years to get bad. it's usually bolts and pegs by the sea that ou have to take extra care of.
They always pop their climbing shoes of after minutes when training, how does it feel to wear them for hours on a route? I imagine their feet must hurt pretty bad.
I'm convinced that if aliens visited our planet, rock climbers should be our ambassadors! Haha. There is something about all the skill, thought, innovation and hard work that it's taken to get people up these walls and mountains that sums up I think so many of the best parts of our species. I know nobody is perfect and everyone struggles with their own demons but when I see some truly epic climbing I can't help but feel I'm witnessing really pure forms of humanity! Thanks for all the inspiration to keep working hard and holding myself to the 🔥🔥🔥🔥
I had a session on it few days before leaving, then a storm passed through and the inside of the crack didn't dry up properly quickly enough to give it a lead go, as it stays in the shade all day
Wow..thanks for the inspiration. Some routes look so endless long. Is there an 80 meter rope enough? And how many friends do you need of each size to be able to climb there?
On some routes an 80m only gets you to the top. You need two tie two ropes together to get down. I'll think Tom used 10-12 green friends on tricks are for kids,plus a load of purples and greys
9:28 holy shit I thought he's in a roof with his back facing the ground for that entire cut, and just couldn't believe he hung on that corner. But then he fell "sideways" in the second cut...
Is 'power layback' code for cheating? LOL 🖤 You fellas, I've been chillin in SouthEast Utah (live in California) for the last week; hiking to native ruins and scoping sick canyons. Nifty coincidence that y'all are in out here as well. Keep jammin!!!
Dumb and Dumber movie quote by Jim Carrey, "But I'm going to go with my instinct on this one". Don't worry Pete, my teeth are so gapped, you could do a proper hand jam in them. HAHAHA! Utah love!
5:35 - The fact that this crack even exists, blows my mind. Imagine the natural physics involved in making such a crack appear, but without the thing becoming even wider, or even crumbling. One of nature's little finesses.
Great stuff. Congratz for all the sends! I'm looking forward to the more in detail videos of the routes. Why does the route Queen end in the middle of the wall? The crack seems to continue pretty much the same past the anchor
I did about 5 days before the end of the trip, then it rained and the inside of the crack got wet and didn't dry properly cos it's in the shade all day. It'll have to wait until another time
@@WideBoyz You see the nicest climbing for me is using not only rock technique but route finding and hand sequences. Chalk, and to a lesser degree bolts, removes those skills. It becomes 'paint by numbers' with the handholds already coloured in.
