Exactly... I ALWAYS do the oil filter FIRST on a clean oil pan. Hardly ANY oil in there as AFTER you dump all the oil from the engine pan...Honda recommends you change the oil plug crush washer every time you change the oil as per your owner's manual. People can argue it's fine to continue to re-use regardless. Totally up to you. You are the mechanic. 🙂
Started changing my own oil a few years ago. I actually charged it yesterday and decided to change the filter before opening the drain plug and it went much smoother than before. A lot less messy this time. Thanks for the pointers.
Thanks much for the video. My car is a 2000 Camry LE 4 cylinder. I use Pennzoil Platinum High Mileage Full Synthetic 5W - 30 oil. I change the oil every 3000 miles everytime like clock work. The Camry was given to me by my late cousin it was his father's Camry. I use Pennzoil because I've had good luck with it. I have to do some repairs on the Camry. I had 1987 Cavalier for a long time before it bit the dust in 2015 or so. So this is why I like Pennzoil so much. To me it's a good oil.
Remember, no more than 10 ugga duggas on the drain plug. However if you strip it, don't worry. Just back it off to the correct torque and cover it with RTV. Source: the friendly people at jiffy lube
You did an good job of explaining DIY oil change! Most Definitely! = because; my father was the head mechanic in a Chevrolet dealership for many years around 70s&80s!
Yay, FINALLY someone on RU-vid who pours the oil from the 1 quart bottles correctly! As you showed, the spout should be at the top so as it pours out, air can get inside so it prevents chugging. Also, if the spout is at the top, you can angle the bottle more before any oil comes out.
Len is excellent. Great content and straight to the point. 1A auto is lucky to have him. He could give his opinion on how often oil should be changed, but I know that's highly subjective and there are a million different opinions.
1 thing here was done wrong. Pouring oil in the filter here is messy and un necessary. Flood mode is what's used to prime the system. I learned that some time ago, and I have done it ever since.
The most common mistake is using the wrong oil. Most people just check which viscosity they need, say 10W40, and just get *any* oil with 10W40 viscosity. But a lot of engines require specific quality standard, othervise the oil will not protect the engine as well. For example, engine may require a minimum quality standard of API SM, which means you can also use a better quality standard one - API SN and SN Plus. But most people would just get any 10W40 oil they find, and it may be say API SJ rated, which is quality standard made for engines build in the 1990s, and it will not protect your engine built in say 2010s.
Re: the drain plug . . good idea to make sure the washer came off with the plug, and didn’t stay with the oil pan. A double-washer guarantees a leak. (Covered not doubling-up the oil filter gasket really well). Excellent video!
The debate over whether to prime the filter or not rages on with no end in sight. The rationale for not priming is a reasonable one, but I continue to prime my filters.
They sold my customer the wrong oil filter he put it on and blew off then proceeded to blow the engine down the street smh check your work for leaks 👍 and also make sure they give you the right filter 🤙
My drain is on the right side of the oil pan. So, I cheat a little and raise the left side of the car and let drain. I use a a jack stand and wait til there is a slow drip slow slow drip. I do need to tighten up on my washer replacement. Drench the oil filter prime oil filter. Tighten bolt , filter and fill with oil. Nothing but synthetic for the old 2.7L LH Chrysler.
2009 Tacoma 2.7 no oil consumption but 2012 Scion XB burns about 2 quarts both 90,000 miles both changed at about 3000 miles. Difference is Tacoma I do the oil change Mobile 1 and the XB changed at the Toyota Dealership. The dealership overfills the oil by about 3/4 of a quart every time they do the change. No explanation.
After doing my oil change i keep having to redo it , i kept replacing everything and once i saw dried drip marks on the filter i thought it was because its fram but i got another one and same thing , i took it in and they said theirs no leak... Sigh more work to do
In the process of filling the oil, last time i've done an oil change, i put the oil at top mark then turned on the engine, i even wait 20 min but when i saw the oil level again it was below the minimum safety point, then i reffil but it's possible to cause damage this action? Engine only worked for less than a minute, but it was also stopped for weeks so there were no thin lawyer even have a thought?? It's a Honda civic 1993 1.6 Dohc B16A
What you fail to mention, is the amount of modern engines that have the filters mounted, upside down. (Thank you Toyota, and Fiat Chrysler "parent company for dodge and all".) Who in all of their infinite wisdom, put the filter and the oil cooler in a single apparatus, UNDER the intake manifold that leaks profusely. (Damn things are a nightmare) Not to mention the ones that are mounted sideways. (Thank you Ford and several other manufacturers) Therefore you prefilling the filter does absolutly nothing except wasting new oil. I have a 2010 Nissan Titan, that the filter is mounted just above the front stabilizer bar. At about a 30 degree angle. Every time I change the oil, I cuss the Nissan engineer who thought this was a good idea.
PS! Even back then! Before all of the new types of electronics of today! People would throw a fit; over you need a battery too fix it's running! So he just put a new "GOOD" battery in and had=made them try it out! They couldn't believe that a battery fixed it!
Something I always do is I pull the dip stick out about half way and take the oil cap off when draining the oil. The oil comes out quicker and more of it will come out as there's no airlock sort of like putting your thumb over a straw which holds liquid in it.
I do not like how they said to prime the oil filter by filling it with oil, then they immediately show the oil filter sideways getting screwed back on the engine. Doesn't make any sense and will make an even bigger mess. What you are supposed to do is lube the rubber ring, put the filter back on dry, fill the engine with the specified amount of oil, run it for a few mins, then turn it off and check the dipstick. If it needs a bit more oil due to the oil filter getting filled up, add a touch more oil.
Is a good idea to use ‘Stop leaks’ for small leaks? And if so when do you need to add it … just b4 an oil change or anytime? Thanks! Love your videos ❤
NOw that was a fine bit of magic. You said to fill that filter with oil, and I was just thinking about my car and the filter is not on the bottom but the side. So how do you fill said filter and when you tilt it over to screw in keep that oil from spilling? YOU must tell me your magic on how you turn that filter on the side and have nothing come out.
I try when possible to only use copper washers when changing the oil drain plug gasket. It seems that some styles of plastic washers don’t stay tight or come loose. There are some exceptions, such as drain plugs that have a recessed gasket mating surface. The rubber/metal combo gasket for those seems good too.
I feel the washer needs to be replaced every time! The washer helps leverage the bolt against when tightening so that you don't stretch or damage the oil pan threads. Once it crushes, if you reuse it, your tightening will be off
Years ago when 🤔 I first started out this young man in college axed us if we could do oil change,its a slow day no appointment necessary. 😑 It being a Ford I should have known better, but here we go .......what th HELLO the only drain plug was a rubber plug nothing else. So oil drained rubber plug goes back in. Well he got within 20ft from his driveway 0 no oil pressure .....he coast in his dad called about 1hr. Later. Hey man what this ship with a rubber plug in my son's oil pan. Its what came out.? Well that could been a lot more costly, for us anyway.
