Very happy with your run thru on your products.just had a cedarstrip boat made for me and l plan to use traditional epiphanes for yearly coats. Thank you.
Fantastic information, im very happy to have found this video. I'm a long-time carpenter who is just getting into the boat business, and this video has been packed with exactly the sort of information I needed. Thank you so much guys
Great info! You have taken a lot of the mystery out of making choices. Thank you! It has been a year since you posted, but I was wondering about how to treat the slightly checked and grayed Sitka spruce mast and sprit on a 1980's shoal boat prior to varnishing. I'm thinking easy flow or thin the first coat for better penetration, and then as you said; use a bit of the mahogany stain to hide the contrasts. Then just start building up coats with some easy flow in the last coat. Or is their a preferred pre treatment product? I wanted to stay away from the 2 part epoxy primer / filler if possible. Thanks for the info. I think you have helped point me in the right direction!
Hi, thank you for your lovely comment. Where about are you based in the world? If you're UK based we'll get one of our Technical Representatives to help or if you're non UK Based, we can point you in the right direction to get in touch with Epifanes. Best, Keeley
@@marinewareltd.5799 Hi Keeley, so great to hear from you! I'm a little amazed at the technology that let's us communicate like this! I am in USA, Michigan. Salt free great lakes! My boat is a Dovkie that I am trying to fix up and get back on the water. Checking and graying is not super bad, but I am trying to keep the shape of the wood. And as long as it keeps its structural integrity, I can live with any discoloration. But my gut is telling me that I should at least stabilize some areas before I varnish over and seal it up. I just don't know which substrates that can stabilize those areas that are compatible with the single pack clear varnish. Maybe you have an answer? Or I can always call Epiphanes 800 number here in the states. I am in Gougeon Brothers back yard, so many around here just jump on the west systems epoxy. It's great stuff in the proper application. Maybe a little overkill for mine. I also have the tiller and rudder to get to. The tiller was painted and I can see where the checking is showing through the thick paint. That may indeed need epoxy stabilizing before varnish. But I haven't gotten to stripping or evaluating the overall condition yet. I appreciate any info you could provide. It's not a big deal of a boat, but she is very unique and I'd like to do her right with a proper job. Cheers!
@@jesserawson898 Hi Jesse, it depends where you're based in the world. Check out this link to contact your nearest Epifanes supplier: www.epifanes.nl/uk/importers-worldwide Contact information can be found on the link. Many thanks, Keeley
Hi really interesting video. I will definitely try a Epifanes system. So far on my boat I used Cecchi system (mono component) but after only 3 months the colour started to "fade down" and I am really unhappy.. I have an Iroko wooden boat. I do not want to put my wood to bare level. So for me the real question is: shall I use Rapid Clear or shall I use Woodfinish? D i need Easy flow? Any representative in Italy that you know? Or shall I just buy online?
Hi! I really love yhe rubbed efect varnish and i were to use it on my wood seats mahogony in my sailboat wayfarer, but i really concern about the resistence of uv in exterior. I sure love that finish results, but dont be so happy if i must do the job every year. what do you recomend?
Hello! From bare timber I would build up with coats of Epifanes Clear Gloss varnish and then apply Epi Woodfinish Matte with UV Filter. The gloss coats will help with UV protection. If the existing coats are sound and stable, they could be prepared and overcoated with the Woodfinish Matte. The best UV protection in a single pack will always be provided by a Full Gloss, such as Epifanes Clear Varnish or Woodfinish Gloss. I hope thats helpful!
Morning - i am interested in spraying with my HVLP. seen some videos and wanted to spray the hatches in my shop. Question: do you follow the same steps with spraying epi clear coat varnish as you would with roll and tip. meaning, from bare wood, sanding down, prep, 50/50 varnish, sand, spray, sand spray...etc. not of the view i have seen with spraying varnish show their process, just how to spray and the end result. Thanks
Hi guys, This is fantastic information, much obliged. Two questions though... does the easy flow work with epifanes yacht enamel? ---first coat I rolled n tipped with 5% epifanes thinner... It was bad... curtains and brush strokes everywhere 14°C (flash time is rapid) ---second coat thinned to 10% and just used the roller and much better results but still a little orange peel (still flashes in seconds) I want a glass finish and I'm prepared to wet flat to get it, but I wondered if a little easy flow might help on my 3rd and 4th coats. Thus saving me the hassle. Second question, I'm using high gloss trad, on teak which I've taken right back to bare wood and as you say it has rejected in just one area (I wiped twice with acetone) I'm on my second coat now, but Im wondering if I should I cut my loses and rub back to bare wood and continue with the tropical varnish you suggested or would it be worth pursuing a 15 coat job using the traditional varnish? Once again thank you for taking the time to produce this content its really helped me a lot. At 32 I'd like to change from home painting and decorating and build a reputation as a specialist in hand painting and varnishing yachts and would like to be the best in the world. Any advice would be be gratefully received. I'm passionate and enthusiastic with a clinical diagnosis of ocd (which I feel gives me an edge) my biggest regret is I haven't found a mentor willing to show me everything so I can preserve the traditions of time served masters before me. Thus I'm forging my own path and teaching myself through careful trial and evaluation. Kindest regards The last pirate...
Hello, thank you for the lovely comment. Be sure to subscribe to our channel to be alerted when we upload new videos. Firstly with regards to the Yacht Enamel. Yes you can use Easy flow and it really helps when the conditions aren’t perfect. If you are down at 14 degrees you will need to use higher thinners levels as the paint itself will be colder and thicker. The obvious thing to help this is warm up the environment but this is often not possible. With regards to your teak. The fact you are getting a reaction is likely to happen with both varnishes. If you are after a 15coat super yacht finish there is little point in using wood finish as it loses its breath ability after approx 5-6 coats. It is most likely there is still oil or grease left on the timber. You can just get a really oily bit of wood. Resend the timber and using acetone and a clean cloth each time. Clean the hell out of it. We hope this helps!
@@marinewareltd.5799 Hello and thank you for replying, I will be following your advice, and look forward to using your company for future orders, your attention to detail and product guidance are second to none. I would go as far to say I think you've done a better job of introducing the world to the epifanes brand than epifanes themselves. I Look forward to your content and have subscribed. Kindest regards The last pirate ;)
