Hi patch, great video, but I’m still confusing if I would like more weight on the front, which meant there will be sag, should I index the offset spine +1 or 2 or -1 or 2
I drive lowered cars and lifted rigs. Ive come to realize run the softest springs you can to prevent bottom outs while achieving the correcr ride height. Use bump stops and sway bars to tune the handling. Run shocks that allow full controlled and comfortable suspension cycling
Great video, my 2002 lx470 is at 20” in the front hub to fender and 21.5 in the rear, running stock ahc bars with landcruiser shocks and eibach rear springs, the truck seems to ride fine despite the smaller bars, I have ome bars for when I add a hidden winch and some other minor stuff armor wise. I don’t plan to hit the trail super often or hard, maybe a couple times a year at uwharrie and some beach stuff. Definitely going back to the 16’s when I run out the Tundra wheels and bfg all terrains and going to a 285/75/16, found a set of stock, clean, no wobble LX wheels for $100. Also side note the oem LC shock washers are a pain to come by, aftermarket may have some advantages coming with full washer sets when swapping.
Thanks for the informative video. I went foam cell pro on my 01 LX that is pretty much stock otherwise and it’s way too stiff. I’ll see if I can chase down some LC t bars. Did you figure out anything for the rear suspension? That’s the part that feels just brutal to me. Honestly makes me regret disabling AHC for it.
the rear is just like a lot of conventional coil-sprung suspensions. you want the lightest possible spring that gives you the ride height you want. from there, it’s all about finding a shock that controls the movement of the suspension (larger than shock body, better heat dissipation it has)
it’s the best possible setup for off and on road travel in a lightweight 100 series. I’d sooner spend $2,000 to keep AHC in prime condition than the same price on suspension kit. For a heavy truck, I’d want to go another route so I don’t regret anything. I just would’ve bought different shocks- live and learn
The ride height will not adjust on AHC unless you move the sensors. The OEM torsion bars do not affect ride height on an AHC vehicle unless they’re extremely re-indexed (supporting the full weight of the vehicle). YOTAMD has a great video about AHC and how it works. I suggest watching that if you want to lift it. You’ll need a sensor lift and these: www.cruiserpatch.com/products/japan-4x4-100-series-ahc-shock-spacers?_pos=4&_sid=0a09b29c9&_ss=r
Great video. I have a 2006 TLC with AHC. I don't do a lot of off-roading but planning on leveling out the truck by adjusting the torsion bars as a first step. No real reason but I like the level look better!
Fun fact: a compression spring is really just along torsion bar that is wound up. Both springs exert torque from the spring material being twisted. Both springs are stressed in torsion. On the other hand, torsion springs that you wind up have bending stresses because you are actually bending the the wire as you wind the spring.
Did you end up getting the LC t bars? If so did the ride quality improve at all? I have what I understand are the lightest ome springs you can get but my ride is pretty firm. My truck has stock bumpers and I don’t carry much weight so I was suggested to try using LC t bars turned up with LC coil springs using 30mm spacers
I am riding on L.C. torsion bars, yes. And my vehicle is fully armored with a heavy drawer system. Aftermarket bars are definitely too stiff for these vehicles
Great video as always, Patch! Question, what's your max droop measure like? I was playing around with my TBs last weekend. My max droop is about 24" from hub to fender. Not sure if I am limited by something in my setup or that's just how much down travel the 100 series has. Thanks!
it improved my truck’s ability to flex in low and high-speed scenarios. in low range with the CDL engaged, the vehicle actually pulls down one side of the front suspension when i turn the wheel - meaning the spring/tb is soft enough that it has a lot of give
oh they do hit pretty much everytime i come down on them. you’d be hard pressed to find a slider that won’t flex into the body taking hits as hard as I deal though
Yep, the main problem I see is with those shocks, not your torsion springs. Your ride height in the front is about an inch too high for those shocks, so you're sacrificing way too much down travel. Those shocks are working in the lower part of their travel and would constantly be topping out. The weight of the 35s would also be compounding the issue of this harsh ride feeling. As I've said before, you really need longer front shocks for a 2" or more of lift. I don't think softer torsion bars are your answer. You'll just run into another problem, you'll bust through your travel quicker and be constantly smashing into those extended bumpstops you have. This will put alot of force through your lower control arms and could break them over time. Longer front shocks is the only answer!
You aren’t gonna get a much longer shock on a 100. Longer shocks aren’t the answer on a 100. Better shocks are the answer. A lighter spring allows the suspension to move. And a correctly valved 2.5” monotube will control the lighter spring. With a heavy spring your limiting the suspension’s movement causing the entire chassis to move when on rough terrain instead of the suspension working. The lightest spring possible to give the correct ride height along with a shock that can handle it is the way to go.
@@cruiserhabit7875 No you're wrong, here in this situation with his current lift being over 50mm, the Ironman shocks are just not long enough to keep a respectable amount of wheel droop. The Ironman shocks are the same length as a factory shock, this means you'll only get a maximum of around 25mm of lift if you want a nice ride. Yes, good quality shocks are important but they're no good if they're setup without enough droop. You can gain approximately 40mm of droop at your front wheels with shocks that are 21mm longer than factory. This is about as long as you can go while keeping the shocks as the limit of down travel. Spring rates are very important, as you say, but the factory torsion bars are way too soft for a Cruiser with a heavy steel winch bar and all that under body steel.
@@SteveBurns80 A longer shock still isn't the answer. If his ride height is too high all he has to do is take 5 minutes and bring it down. Thats an easy fix. Trying to run a longer shock on a 100 opens up a whole different can of worms for not much gain. If you need a longer shock you're in the wrong Cruiser. Just. get a 200.
@@LeeSumner-h1k Yeah I agree, winding the ride height down an inch would certainly help the ride quality, a lot. But I'm guessing he requires the ground clearance for the type of tracks he's doing. Going a longer shock is the easiest and best option for his setup, but unfortunately it's not a real cheap option. The shocks alone aren't cheap and you'll also require longer UCA'S. All I'm saying is, he's ride height is too much for the shocks he's using and softer springs isn't going to do shit. Oh and, 200s are gay. Not that there's anything wrong with that.
@@cruiserpatch oh okay. I was just wondering because I know they had the regular foam cells a while back and now it seems like it’s only the “pro” version and the nitros. Great video but now you got me second guessing my purchase 😂
I recently installed an Ironman FCP kit on my LX and I'm also thinking of going back to stock t-bars. It's fine on road but I'm worried it's going to be extremely harsh off road. I haven't had it out on the trail yet so we'll see...
