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Squirrels ate every mulberry before they were even ripe. Darn those little so and so.

Strawberry leaves and plants have been used to decipher soil nutrient deficiencies since probably the late 1950's. Look on line with Goggle and a seach criteria of " strawberry nutrient deficiencies". Old school 1960's and 1970's gardeners often planted a strawberry or two among thier other veggies to look at the leaves. Looking at the pictures in printed materisls and comparing the fine details of the plants themselves you can even detect mincronutrient deficiencies such as boron, copper, manganese, and a slew of about a dozen. Heavy rain, like heavy watering in a potted plant with run-off capabilities, can cause nutients to leach from the soil. Wll the more so in a bottomless raised bed. But is occurs in in-the-ground gardens as well. Consider protecting ypur beds with a top dressing of barn cleanings, leaves, or cardboard in the fall. Decide whether to till or turn in what remains come spring. Remove all else and add it to the compost pile.

Your garden is looking great! Glad the sheep are staying in their pasture.

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You grow. a lot in your family size garden

I find the burpee organic tomato fertilizer has enough potassium and calcium to keep all of my fruiting plants happy. I sprinkle it around early in the season, water it in real good and then i cover the ground with straw to keep the nutrients in the soil. At the end of the season, I place a good layer of compost around my plants. It seems to make them fruit a lot better. I used to use nitrogen and found I was getting really lush foliage and not many fruit.

Have a good day at the THF!!

Add some grass clippings to your strawberry bed. My guess is they need some nitrogen but also could be the rain. For your potatoes, as long as your new potatoes aren't poking through the ground you are okay. Hilling is done to keep the potatoes from peeking through the ground and turning green on you. I think the best way to do potatoes is to put a piece of cardboard on the ground, place your potatoes, add a scoop of compost on top, and then top off with a bunch of old hay. You could put some hay around your existing plants, that won't wash away on you.

Gd update ya all have a great n blessed weekend 😊

Nice gardens. Have a great day.

Sorry I didn't realize that was 4 years ago You're taping

I planted 40 strawberry roots and only 1 has survived so yours look great to me! 😂

❤ Hello❤❤ I enjoyed your video today I always have it just seems like with my RU-vid channel now I don't Have quite as much time as I did before❤❤ I try to come back as often I bless you in your beautiful family special❤❤

Good update. Should be a bountiful harvest this year. In our area we don't have green brier problems but battle multiflora rose and some places kudzu-both are evil IMO

If your potatoes are determinate, you don't need to hill them. No potatoes will grow up the stem. There's a nutrient deficiency in your strawberries. Also, the soil on top of the logs, twigs, etc, is spending all its nutrients trying to break down the logs and twigs. Also, your soil is shrinking due to the decomposition of the twigs.

Our mulberry trees are dying and there is very little fruit. They are rather old trees. I ordered three new trees to plant. Your tomatoes look great.

I bought a hat like yours at Buc-ees (the Xanadu of fuel pumps).

Where did you get your strawberries I got mine In a place that they have strawberries and all sorts of different things growing You may be able to call someone in ask them You may be able to call someone and ask them about the strawberries For the 1st year They can give you some suggestions

On the potatoes ... it does becom a labor of love. !potato3s come in both deteminate and indeterminate varieties. indeterminate types are the onesmyou put in potato stacks and as lomgbas you keep adding dirt et al,during the season, roots then potatoes c9mecout of each leaf nodulel. Determinate types add roots and potatoes both vertcally and horizontally in lofty soil. A fair amount of our native soils don't stay in raised rows nor hills very well. A lot of people slap an old cedar fence slat(s) along side thier hill rows. Or, use strips of cardboard. For myself and squash, i often take the top and bottom out of a cardboard box that is hill size plus about 2" taller. I bury the bottom down about 2" into the dirt, fill the center with dirt, and call it a squash hill.

We’ve never had success with turkeys, no idea why, but frozen birds for us. lol. The strawberries, I think you’re right about the roots getting past the soil fill and into the understory part. They look like they’re short of nitrogen, which would make sense at that layer because the wood breaking down consumes lots of nitrogen. I bet a light addition of some low dose organic fertilizer would perk them up. On the potato hills, we rarely hill ours. I try to plant a little deeper and let it ride unless we have a lot that are exposed. The labor vs reward isn’t a good enough ratio for back pain! 😂 I’m not sure you can keep it from washing though, you’ve got your soil improved very well and it washes away easily when it’s not just sticky old clay, which is an unfortunate conundrum!

The 1st year For strawberries Are you supposed to get rid of the Baby vines That go from the mother to the To the baby's I know I'm not using the right term And any strawberries you supposed to pluck those too

Hello Laura. I am currently watching some canning videos. Do you use a particular kind of potatoes? Blessings

My first guess is a nitrogen deficiency on the strawberries. The most readily plant soluable form of nitrogen is non-sudsy ammonia; yes, from the cleaner aisle at the grocery store. We reliably find non-sudsy, non-scented ammonia at the Now $1.25 store around here. I generally mix with water at about the rate you would use for cleaning and keep itboff tge leaves. Heading into warmer and drier weather, i go lighter on all fertilizer type things prefering to do it more often if needed as opposed to dedicating the plants. Most garden fertilizers are actually salts and they are taken up using osmosis. Which ever has a lesser concentration, soil or roots, draws from the the side with a higher concentration. But, once the salt or fertilizer based nutrients get into the plant, the plant will need adequate water for the plant to utilize the nutirents or complete thier metabolism of them. If you fertilize your strawberries, or any plant they will need to be conscientiously watered for 3 to 6 weeks. This is all the more so when using a chemical based item as opposed to an organic fertlizer like say rabbit pellets which tend do more of a slow release due to needing to be both mechanically and chemically broken down. If you can get enough, try top dressing with used coffee grounds. Or better yet scrstching some of those coffee grounds into the top .5" to 1.0" of dirt. Hand crumble egg shells into @ 1/4" sized peieces then toss orvdtir them with your used coffe grounds; yes toss like a salad, stir like chocolate chips into cookie dough. The worms sure like this type of mix as do a lot of soils. With the wood materials youve put in your beds, take care to not overly, overly fertilze with anything. Fine bark mulch, wood chips, or sticks and wood - they will absorb water and any fertilizers that water contains. In the rsiny season, the fertilizers generally wash through and out. In a dryer sesson of moist to wet followed by a cycle of dry to moist, these porous woody materials can build up an accumulation of the salt based fertilizers. We see this in many indoor, potted plants at transplant time when the soil is lighter in color; excess fertilizer is why some people do better with a "dirt over" or dirdt replacement when transplanting indoor potted plants. We also see this in the assorted potting mixtures from say Miracle Grow advertized to grow superior plants; the compost factions in the potting mux are infused with fertilizer.