Toyota 4.7 Cam and Crankshaft Seals 

My Cam and crank seals had to be pressed in, even with the lube. For the cam seals I took the old seal and stacked it with the new seal, placed the cam wheel over that and then tightened the bolt until the new seal was seated. Worked like a charm. For that crank seal I placed a 1 1/5 inch PVC pipe coupling over the shaft and then tightened the crank bolt to press the new seal in. These were Felpro seals from O'Reily's. Made in Japan, but not OEM. Extremely tight fit! You have to include "kit" when searching for the crank seal at O'Reily's.

best auto tech video ive ever seen. Great speaking clearly explaining.

Excellent. Thanks for the video. I love seeing the engine clearly (out of the truck).

Take pride in your work I love it! Great job and thank you for this video it helped out so much

Thanks for showing the cam seal replacement, had heard it was a much bigger job.

Just saved me $100 on cam seals. I have vvt but was going to order.

Great video, I followed along when putting mine back together. Great help. Thanks for doing this

Appreciate it man, Saved my a$$. Great video, better audio next time, but better than last time. I support you.

Greetings to an engineer, this method is adjustable, such as Toyota Sequoia 2002, and Jero, the most important of the importance of His Excellency.

great thanks

Great video! I believe you have shown me in this video series that all the goods have to come off to change a crank seal. I had my local mechanic (ex-toyota shop guy) do a timing belt/water pump service for me at 180k a year ago on my 04'. While he was that deep into it I asked him to change cam and crank seals. They weren't leaking that I knew of, just thought it would be good prevention while it was opened up (hindsight....leave well enough alone). Not long after the service during a crawl underneath checking things out, I noticed a trail of oil from below the crank cover covering the oil pan and etc. behind it. I have tracked the oil level through a following oil change cycle and never notice a significant drop in level even though the leak trail comes back after deep cleanings. Really covers the pan and cross member areas, but never has made it past the skid plates to the ground. Have you seen crank seal leaks become anywhere near catastrophic in loss rates, something I would notice on the stick before it looses a significant amount? Would you assume the crank sealing surface got scratched during the seal change to cause such a slow leak? Ultimately, I'm torn if it is risky enough I should have someone go back in and change the seal, let it ride until the next service and deal with the undercarriage mess occasionally, or assume that if the crank sealing surface is nicked that a seal change may get me the same leaking results after future seal changes. Sorry its a long comment... you obviously have proven that you've been around the block literally on these things and I value your experience to either validate my worries or settle me down that it's not that big of a deal and keep an eye on it. Thanks!

Buen trabajo! Muchas gracias por tu tiempo!

Thank you SO much for your detailed instruction, most appreciated by this intrepid amateur:)

Besides the seals being an interference fit around the outside diameter, making them difficult to remove, they also get welded to the hole from the many heat cycles during it's life. If you marinate the outside diameter with PB Blaster, they come out a little easier.

Thank you for the video! Helped me a lot!

Good video! FYI the engineers at Toyota do not apply form in place gasket on the outside of the seals at the factory.

Great 👍🏾 class your a good teacher

Excellent video mate, subscribed!

Toyota calls the "crankshaft seal" an oil pump seal. If you order a crankshaft seal, it is too small (diameter-wise). The OE P/N for my 2004 GX470 is 90311-A0001 and the National Seal 710615 is an alternative.

Great video along with the updated part 1 and part 3! I really appreciate the time you’ve taken to make them (twice!).I have a couple questions and hope you have time to respond. I have a ‘04 GX470 and I’m assuming same procedures (I have FSM). Would you replace the cam and crank seal if the engine has 200K miles even if they aren’t leaking yet? Sounds like you wouldn’t, but I wanted to double check. Is it as easy as it looks when the engine is in the car as it is when it’s out? (Btw, The links for the cam and crank seals say they don’t work on my engine so I’ll do some research on that). Have you had any problems with the water pumps in these kits? In the comments some people were saying they leaked...I’m not too worried but thought I’d ask since there’s no markings on the WP to guarantee they are Aisin. Finally, would you do anything with the alternator or power steering pump while they are removed? I was thinking about changing the bearing and brushes on the alternator if it’s never been changed before. -Kathy

Ya helped a lot i couldn’t find a video for this until i found yours , i hafta fix a crack in the crank case any tips or ya got a video for that???

Hi sir Pease I have question Can I replace the front crankshaft seal without remove or change the water pump

209K original timing belt. Just getting around to it!

Thank you very much for these videos! I am at the point of removing cam bolts. They are super stuck. Any pointers to get them off? Can i spray PB blaster on these? I tried extensions on the cam tool and breaker bar but it isnt budging. Dont want to snap bolt. Thank you!!

Thanks useful advice

Nice job 👍

Well done

When I got my 2006 LX470 back from shop after replacing camshaft seals it sounded like a diesel making a ticking noise. I took it back and they found that it was the scissor gears causing the ticking noise. They did fix at no charge. My main concern is if that it caused any damage for the day we drove it making the ticking noise. What is your opinion?

Had my timing belt replaced 7,000 miles ago. After throwing a camshaft position sensor code repeatedly I thought I'd look at my timing and noticed a large gouge on the back of the timing belt?? Not sure what could have happened. The back of the belt makes contact with the idler pully and water pump. Which were replaced. Do you think a bolt backed out and fell between? That's all I could think?

is there a different set of cam and crank oil seals for a 2006 vs a 2001. The cam seals you installed look bigger than the ones Amazon recommends for my 2006.

What is the torque spec to re-tighten the cam sprockets? I am in the middle of this job using your video, but don’t know how tight to finalize the bolts.

Any idea what the torque specs are for the camshaft timing belt pulley bolts are?

Is this the same as 1998 ls400?

quick question what's the part # on that seal puller? if u wouldn't mind, thanx

the sealant on the cam seals is really odd. Seems like the seal isnt doing a good enough job if it needs it, but maybe im just bitter cause i didnt think of the split in the cover that it would help close up. BTW i made a little pulley holder out of the old belt bolted to a handle.

I have a 2007 sequoia sr5 , is it variable valve timing or is it exactly like this video? Also, do I need to replace my seals when doing my timing belt? What else do you recommend replacing when doing the timing belt replacement? Truck has 89,000 miles . Thank you.

Молодец!!!

The amazon links are actually really good prices

Thanks man for all your videos. Great work. Isnt that a nissan patrol in the back stage there? I have a few questions about trolls if possible Respect from tunisia

Does the oil need to be drained when doing the crank seal? Or, is the oil level low enough? Also, is any type of grease sufficient when installing the new seals? Thank you, sir.

Question: What is a good way to inspect the timing belt without tearing everything apart?

Can you post a link to the cam pulley holder tool you use(I didn't see it in the list of tools on your website)? There are a few on amazon, none of which specifically had the 4.7 noted. Thanks and great video.

😊

What brand Cam and Crankshaft seals did you use? OEM?

so is the seal sealant you use just the FIPG i get at the dealership or is it a different sealant?

Good video man but please don't use your hands as a hammer. Use a rubber mallet. Your hands will thank you in the long run.

Hello, so what would happen if you accidentally turn the cam wheel, is there a procedure to get it back to where it should be?

How did you remove the actual gear on the crank to access the seal? And if none of the seals are leaking should I change them? 158k 2001 tundra.. thanks

How do you determine if you should replace the cam seals? I’ve got a 2001 w 150k.

how much would a job like this and the whole timing kit/water pump cost?

Do you know the brand of the cam shaft seals? Is it Stone? Is this the oem brand? Thanks.

Is it the same for 3uzfe ls430 gs430? Thanks

Did you have to drain the oil and anti-freeze coolant an order to perform this work?

Do I have to completely remove the engine to replace the oil pump?

please where is the vvti small filter located?

Is this the 4.7 Non-VVTI engine?

Where is your shop located?

What's oem brand for the cam seal?

Could you give us a part number and manufacturer name of that cam tool? I saw different ones on Amazon and I don’t want to find out I bought the wrong one once im in there