What's crazy is this is a great video showing this job is doable for the DIY folks...the problem is most companies where I live refuse to do service on Lexus or want to use a machine & charge outrageously for it. The issue for the DIY crowd where I live is no access to a lift & putting it on stands isn't my preference. I guess I will hafta just figure it out then bkuz these shade tree mechanics are getting upset bkuz I'm asking how they do the fluid exchange bkuz my cousin who is ASE told me about this video & said it's a good option for those not wanting a machine flush.
Very good sir! I have been doing procedures similar to this since 2006 with great success. The transmission is basically a fluid pump so as long as you keep adding fluid while the engine is running it pumps out the old with no harm to the transmission. And especially good is that you dropped the pan and changed the filter before doing the flush
Great video nice way of removing all the dirty fluid. Im going to try it on my 2012 Toyota sienna. I was planning on doing a few drain and fills but this way I can get everything done all at once. The car has 180,000 km
@@daveg2199 Everything good! I did a drain and fill not sure how much came out but put the same back in. Than I disconnected the return line in the radiator. Ran the car with a clear hose an old windshield washer jug and stopped half way about 2L and i replaced the same amount. Went through the gears. Did this until the fluid was red coming out. I think I used 12L. Than I let it cool and did a final level check with an infra red thermometer on the pan. The straw drained about 1L extra. make sure the car is level front and back wheels off the ground. Get an assistant to tell you when the jug is half full to stop.
Change my 262K miles Camry ATF. Good news: I think it fixed the 'shuddering' problem. Other news: Why, why, why did they do away with a simple dip-stick and drain plug???
good question.... I think its due to the fact that WS Transmission fluid is Hygroscopic... Which in a sealed transmission there is no inlet for atmospheric seepage/contamination. Probably not a big deal in a dry climate where I live... I just did my Lexus yesterday and had 4 quarts of WS fluid. I removed the pan and changed the filter and put it all back together and ran it for 10 minutes to warm it upend opened the drain plug till it flowed correctly and sealed it back up. Had a 1/2 quart left over and discarded it.... by the time I do it again it would not be any good in my opinion... I'll just buy another 4 quarts. I think this is the first time my Lexus has been done... no scarring on the bolts and the fluid looked surprisingly good for the mileage. I plan to do one more filter change in 60K and every 30k I will pull the plastic tube out and let it drain out and just refill... probably 2 quarts... Keep the fluid refreshed and should be a good maintenance program for the rest of the cars life.... These 6 speed transmission if taken care of run just as long as the motors!! Multiply 100Ks...
What is crazy is some of these comments. At 100,000 miles, I just had my transmission serviced at the Toyota Dealer. Not to mention names, they did a drain/fill. The dealer also mentioned that if it slips, you need a new transmission. They were not being rude though. Luckily, I drove the vehicle for over 1 hour and it shifts fine. There definitely is a new washer at the drain bolt, but I could not tell if they removed the fill plug, even after removing the splash guard. The probability is they cleaned up any excess fluid. The receipt states 3 Qts. WS Fluid on a Toyota Vehicle. The receipt also states "No Guarantee to remedy any issue with the vehicle", and "Fluid Service was requested by the customer". Clearly, I requested it, because it is recommended. Now, the dealer is recommending every 30,000 miles. I spoke to them about the 20,000-mile mark and said that this is fine. The only shameful part of all of this is that I never saw the fluid come out, could not tell the condition of the fluid, or see the fluid come back in. The tech did state that if the fluid was really dark and it smelled funny, they would have stopped there and not drained any of the remaining fluid. Given the transmission was shiting fine prior to the service, I would suspect there would be no issues. This is one of the main reasons why I took mine to the dealer, as I feel they would not play games. We all hear these horror stories. The cost was not too high either. About one hour of labor, the fluid, and some miscellaneous shop supplies.
You mentioned that you could not tell if they removed the fill plug.... You didn't mention the model or year vehicle you have but if you don't have a dip stick in the transmission to read fluid level, then the only way to add ATF is by removing the fill plug located on the upper side of the transmission.
Many thanks for the GREAT video. I have performed this once before and have plans for more on my Toyotas. I would like to add that the Toyota service manual calls for the fluid check to be performed between 85 - 90C while the car is running - the fluid expands with heat. The 'Data List' function on my Techstream software has not been working so I used the Torque app to monitor trans temp. This can be tricky! The trans warms quickly. Definitely best with 2 people.
Lo hice de esa misma manera mi toyota camry 3.5L 2007 v6 estaba pateando las velocidades y después de hacerle esto tal como está en el video quedó perfecto !!!! Gracias!
This is what ive been thinking of doing but every where i look the info i find is to just keep adding fluid into the fill and drain which only dilutes the old oil with new and not a flush.
Just did this today on an Avalon. Used 10 Qts, but that turned out to be a bit of overkill I think. Fluid looked pretty fresh by the 7th. I didn't bother doing the pan heat up and drain fro leveling as I was careful to put it exactly how much I took out. Still, the fluid coming out is warm whereas it's cold going in so there may be some discrepancies there. Great video, was very helpful!
Why is it that Toyota Dealers refuse to open, drain and refill my 2013 Toyota Avalon??? They keep telling me those trannies are sealed with lifetime fluid and no need to change out the fluid and there is no dipstick? WTH? Is this true at all Toyota dealerships?
I just had mine done today.. 2013 Avalon limited. They seemed to be skeptical but I pressed the issue. 66821 miles and $314 total cost. Just screw what they say and protect your investment. Definitely possible to have done.
Te falto explicar el proceso para sacar la tapa del cárter de la transmisión que deben aflojar las bases de soporte del motor para poder levantarlo y llegar a su sitio con los dados de extracción
I know it's basically the same on the 4Runner which is basically a GX460. The location of where to disconnect the return line is on the right side (passenger side) behind the wheel.
I have a Toyota Wish where the cooler is attached to the transmission, therefore I only have the coolant inlet-outlet hoses. It has an alternative screw to drain it, but I don't know which one it is. K311 CVT transmission
I’m old skool- our 2015 Avalon now has 66k miles and I’m having a hard time believing that the ATF fluid & filter are supposed to last 100k miles! We have 0 problems now and I want to keep it that way. Should I D&F or Flush now or is it really good for 100k and most don’t have issues for 300k + that I want to get out of this Toyota? Thanks & new Sub - rang the 🛎️!😁👍👍
I think if you did a filter and flush now, you'd enjoy peace of mind for the next 7yrs/60k! Staying ahead of the fluid is always better than falling behind. Thanks for watching!
They will last until the end of the warranty period. Which is how all the manufacturers are viewing it these past years. But for us that take the initiative and know about mechanics, hydraulics,... can make the transmission last much, much longer.
Yes, after you have removed old ATF & added new fluid then run vehicle to specified temp range & remove bottom drain plug( keeping the inner plastic 'straw or tube' in place. The extra will overflow out.
The sad part is many people wont be able to do this because not many even know how to change the oil. So they take it to the shop and many will get scammed. They be paying $400 for a $100 job and some mechanics will take 4 hours to do and some even not changes it at all. Its not like there is a dip stick where a customer can check if it changed or not. Alot of mechanics are scams. Its unfortunate.
@@mushy18100 You think an 80 year old lady or a mother of 5 that knows nothing about cars will watch youtube and get their hands dirty changing transmission? Comon now. Not everyone are car people or even handy man people. My wife cant even put a chair together from Ikea. You think she willing to watch youtube and do all that? Look at all these comments. 90% of people who commented are dudes and car people.
Quick question, the manual said that transmission fluid is expends if it's above 104 degrees. So when you say you worm up the transmission and then it starts to trickle down it means you raised the temperature and as the result it's expended and of course trickling down. Would that make the under-filling transmission and the resulting burn in near future?
No. The proper temp to check the fluid and have it trickle out is 104-113*F. If you overfill the transmission the fluid will come out prior to reaching those temps. When properly filled it won't expend any fluid when the temps are cold and will only expend a very small trickle at the proper temp. If the transmission temps are high, let's say 150*F and you pull the plug, then more fluid than desired will come out and you will indeed be under servicing the transmission.
TLDR: Check it cold = over serviced Check it hot = under serviced Check it at proper temp = properly serviced It's the Goldilocks of transmission servicing.
It is better to always fill via the fill plug hole as it is higher because you may get hydraulic resistance if you try to push in fluid via the hose up from near the bottom of the transmission.
how do i remove the solenoid wire connector after the bolts are removed and only one is left for the first solenoid from the front of the engine on a 2008 avalon v6 , above is a cooling black box with wires going in and out, outside of the transmission pan looking from the top of the motor after the battery is removed?
Nope, you're good. The computer is continually averaging shift points across previous shifts, driving style, etc. Any minor difference refreshed fluid might create will be compensated for as part of that ongoing process.
Coulnd't you conect a tube to the other line, going to a bucking of fresh transmission fluid, therefore the transmission would suck new fluid and dump the old fluid? I've known it's done this way in other vehicles.
Good question. There's no suction on the return line. The initial "suction" point is at the filter inside the pan. You could rig up your bottle or bucket pump to the line and push it in, but it won't draw fluid in by itself.
@@MasterJacks that would make sense then. So, I saw another way of this being done in a mechanic shop where the technician drains and refills the transmission. He then pulls the tube and have an assistant run the engine until the old fluid starts to sputter at which point he cuts the engine refills the transmission and does this maybe three times. I'm just trying to reduce all the coordination of watching the fluid leave as well as having to pump in fluid.
Puedo prender el carro y dejar que salga todo el aceite viejo sin echar aceite nuevo? No se daña si se queda sin aceite y el carro encendido? Y luego echarle aceite limpio. O necesariamente se tiene que dejar drenar e ir aplicando aceite nuevo?
Se tiene que poner aceite en caso de que el motor esté encendido, los engranajes de la transmisión están trabajando con solamente tener el motor encendido y la bomba del fluido de la transmisión correrá en seco en caso de no agregarle fluido. Así que en pocas palabras, si, drenado y llenado simultáneamente.
Where on the car did you fill the fluid in the pan after you replaced the transmission strainer? I am about to do this on my 2015 Camry v6 and have the replacement strainer, fluid, a pump, etc. ready but I can't figure out where else to put in new fluid besides the fill port behind the wheel.
I have a Tiyota rav 4 115 K miles changed the Transmission fluid from dealer but not flash. Do I need really flush in my car for the next 30K miles? 3 Dealers stated that will cause eventually slippage. Please advise. Thank you in advance
New fluid doesn't cause slippage, worn internal clutches do. As the clutches wear, the clutch material will become suspended in the fluid lending a bit of friction to the clutches. When you replace the fluid, that added friction is no longer available. If the clutches are badly worn, you may notice them slipping with new fluid. The new fluid doesn't cause the problem, it reveals an underlying condition. Why do clutches wear? Because fluid is allowed to go too long without being changed. It breaks down and loses its cleaning and protective properties. If it were my vehicle, I wouldn't hesitate to flush the fluid at 115k. Your clutches should still be in great shape, and this will keep them that way. IMHO
Agenda MJ empírically speaking amd based on your long expirience. Why then these 3 Toyota managers high rank tech from 10 years of long transmission services stick to the filter change and oil fluid? They all pointed out that if you do so all the internal torque converter debries will clog the passages on the ball body and all internal pats rather than the filter and trans oil intervals. Inescrutable right? Thanks for the great advice. Much appreciated!
how do i find the return line from the cooler? where is this located? it looks like the radiator, but doesn't the radiator have antifreeze in it and not atf fluid? I'm confused
On this vehicle they are integrated. The transmission oil is ducted through the radiator within its own sealed passages keeping it sperated from the antifreeze. To find the return line, you disconnect one of the two lines and start the vehicle for a couple seconds. If the fluid is coming out the "radiator" you have the right one. If it is coming out of the line from the transmission, you need to switch to the other one. This makes sure you're flushing the cooler as well and not just the transmission. Thanks for watching. All the best.
@@MasterJacks Very good explanation, but in such case didn't you use the wrong line? In your video the oil still comes out of the gear box and not from the cooler hose... Further more, when disconnecting the cooler out, shouldn't the gear box inlet be closed/sealed somehow to make sure that no oil comes out of it in "reverse" direction?
@@embec5426 No, the fluid is coming out of the cooler on the way back to the transmission. There are two cooler hoses. One goes from the transmission to the cooler, the other goes from the cooler back to the transmission. After disconnecting the return line, you connect your hose directly to the nipple coming out of the cooler and send the old oil directly into the waste bucket instead of back to the transmission. The fluid only flows in one direction so it isn't necessary to seal the exposed hose. There hose has no suction.
I think you'd be safe planning on about 3 gallons. Use the first 2 to 2-1/2 gallons for the flush, and save the last couple quarts to get the level set right if needed.
Not sure which vehicle your 6-speed is in, but the Camry has a system capacity of 6.9 qts. You could make two gallons work if you're precise and like the color of the fluid when you've pushed the 7 qts through. That would leave you with 1 qt to set your level. I personally like the wiggle room of having extra than being in the middle of a job and not having enough.
