Chris, i had a question, i have a older car (1995) and the ignition lock is on its last leg, you can pull the key out when the car is running etc,i am in the process of working on this car so its not running at the moment and i was wondering,if i buy a new oem ignition and i pull my door locks could a locksmiths rekey the door locks so they all work of the same new key thats coming with the new ignition lock I'm buying? That's how the car originally worked,the ignition key also operated the doors,at the moment the car has 3 keys,one key operates the ignition and the driver door,the passenger door lock was replaced years ago by a previous owner so it has its own key and the trunk has another key,lol, what are my options here? thank you for your input.
dntlss Hello, and thanks for the questions. Almost any automotive locksmith can rekey your auto locks to match any key. If you replace the ignition yourself, take one of the new keys and the door locks to their shop and they should be able to do that. Prices vary around the country, so be sure to ask for an estimate. TY.
Based on your video I just fixed my door lock. Junkies tried to break into it and they massacred the first pin but still couldn't get the door open. I had to remove the first pin but I thought maybe I could replace it at some point. Keep in mind that in this video the pins are separate on either side. On my car the pins go right through like a loop. You have to pull them from one side through to the other to get them out.
Yes, and also, if you pick them once and partially rotate, then the second set of wafers will spring into the slots where the first set was, causing you to have to pick the second set again. If you don't, then the lock is useless, because you won't be able to insert a key. Therefore, if you intend to pick this type of lock and get it set once, you can't stop until you pick wafers a total of 4 rows (first 2 sets + 1 set to unlock, then that same +1 set again to reset the lock, so the key will work). I bought one of these locks, so that I could learn about them, and this is what I learned. Therefore, if you intend to pick the lock for a customer and are unable to pick the rest after a partial turn or unlock it but not pick the final time to reset the lock, then you will have to remove and replace the lock. So if you have no experience with this and figured you would "attempt" to unlock it, you could end up creating a lot of trouble. Know your lock before working on the field, so you don't ruin a lock.
Used a Lishi TOY43 yesterday. Been using Lishi on KW1 & SC1 with pretty good results. Wanted to start practicing on cars. After much struggling able to pick the lock. Tried to decode it and it got jammed in there. Saw another video, same lock, same Lishi, same problem. Mine ended up breaking and left a tip inside jamming the lock. Or maybe I already messed up the wafers and the lock is ruined. It was late and raining, going back this morning to take the lock out . . . also a first for me. Am still confused on the wafer systems and the numbers being rambled off. Any guidance out there?
Hey.. I hope maybe you can help me.. I got an old nissan 200sx from 1989 ... I need parts to repair my door lock, either that or a whole new cylinder. And I need the lock ring that keeps the cylinder in the door handle ... do you know where I can source those !? Thanks in advance.
I have 96 Corolla with a driver side door lock that doesn’t turn when the key is in. I’m guessing one of those split wafers wore out after 25 years and is sticking out preventing the cylinder from turning. I haven’t opened up the door to check yet, but I’m pretty sure it’s a faulty wafer. Would u recommend I just remove the faulty wafer or do I need to buy another one? Will the lock cylinder work with a wafer removed? (I don’t rly care about worsening the security of the lock)
I remember there are key code print on lock cylinder for toyota, and after converting that lock code to bit number, should I invert that bit number to opposite for key cut?
Jorick Earl Bastian I would take both apart and try to rearrange as many new wafers from the new lock to match your old key and only if you were lacking some use the old wafers to fill in the missing ones :)
Well I don't deal with cars a whole lot. Keep track of car keys and break in occasionally. I was wondering what car entry kit for beginners do you recommend?
Alan LeSueur well aside from a good long reach & airbag (get two of them, I recommend High Tech Tools airbags cause they have a stiffener inside, makes it much easier to insert) However I have been unlocking cars for a long time and High Tech tools kits were always our go to. Many cars are much more easily unlocked with them (in door tools) than with a long reach. I’ve seen guys trying to use a LRT for 30 minutes+ on cars that would be easily opened with a in-door tool, so don’t use the LRT exclusively. I will note many cars can only be opened via LRT so your first purchase should be it and maybe a “basic set” of in door tools. Lastly, don’t get any of those crazy two piece/ snap together LRT. They all suck
I had to cut a car key using a computer program. I think for someone new to this proffession...learning all the key blanks and how to cut the locks well is kinda lengthy to learn unless you do it alot.
MrTechnogoodie Toyota regular & split wafers are typically available through locksmith distributors or one of the several other websites that sells locksmith supplies outside of the industry. As a kit or sold per refill bag
CALIF GREEN those remote head/large head keys have always been a problem, you can only replace there is no permanent fix. You can usually re-shell it (still have to cut the key) or program in a whole new key. Be advised many places will not cut customer supplied keys so best check with any storefront locksmiths in your area.
