Other Videos about this Toyota Aygo : Spark plugs Change : ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-1uNXyoThPDk.html Throttle Body Cleaning : ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Z3DBjkmoH_w.html Oil Change : ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-g0AhFhwl7JY.html
For what it's worth. The throttle body DO NOT need to be removed for this operation! For the video purpose it does facilitate, but surely not an obligation. For anyone interested many intervention in the back part of the engine bay will greatly benefit with the removal of the wipers and the scuttle panel. Fixed in place with several M10 bolts. An easy task. Curiously it's exactly the same as in the Toyota Yaris! Cheers
I could not remove the throttle body, since one of the bolts would not come off. It was just spinning in the hole. So I removed the mass air flow sensor with the throttle body still in place. You can not see the two bolts that secure the mass air flow sensor when the throttle body is still in place, but they are pretty easy to reach and to remove if you reach for the bolts entering from the left side behind the throttle body. I recommend removing the electrical connector carefully with a flathead screwdriver, it is almost impossible by hand. Press the back end of the clip and put the flathead screwdriver in the other side that goes up, then push gently.
Ho just i watch your video . I been having a shaking engine ( 1kr fe ) since i brought my car (toyota vitz 2005)back to 2015 i been trying many things to solve the problem. Today i spend 30 minutes cleaning the trotter and was like a magic the car stop the annoying shake. Thanks m8 Regards victor from New Zeland
I cleaned my maf (I spelt that very carefully lol) and the car runs better but! When I'm doing hill starts sometimes the engine bounces about in the engine bay - is that just because it's a 1.0L and nothing to do with the maf etc?
Great video. I've got a rough idle on mine - fine when it's revved... cleaned the MAP and throttle body but it's still the same. I was going to run Torque Pro live data today and get a MAP reading to see if there are vacuum leaks, any idea on what the correct pressure at idle should be ? Also any other suggestions on what the most likely causes could be of a rough idle but OK elsewhere ? Thanks in advance.
Just one thing: that IS NOT a mass air flow sensor❗ This engine DOES NOT HAVE a MAF sensor❗That IS a manifold absolute pressure sensor (MAP) combined with an IAT sensor.
Yaris 1.0? I got a 1.3L and it's so easy to work on.I would remove the PCV,see if it's clogged up clean it and if really bad replace it with a genuine part only but i cleaned mine at 80,000 miles with no bad issues.I would clean the throttle body too.Do all those in one go so you know nothing else needs doing because if a check engine light comes on you have to pay someone to remove the code,even if you do the cleaning yourself.Don't use cheap supermarket petrol and change the oil at 5-6,000 max.VVT-i engines need clean oil and little sludge will build up through the tiny holes near the cam....you don't want that at all.
Not expecting an answer but i'll give it a try. Im having this weird issue on my 07 aygoi recently bought, clutch is recently changed so it's not the clutch. When i go to start my car it starts like it normally would but drops to around 600rpms and goes back up and idles steady at 1k. A full service is done on the car including plugs, filters, oil etc. I cleaned off the throttlebody thinking it would be that but it wasnt. Engine seems to be shaking more than it should at idle speed but doesnt shake when revving/driving. Car behaves normally except on take offs in first gear, the car basically wants to drop down the rpm's to 600. When you're off it drives normally from what i can tell. Thanks
Hi ! From what you say It looks like the air entering the cylinder is not measured corectly by the computer for some reason . If the engine runs ok when you drive it usually rules out an issue with fuel delivery/ ignition ( Injectors , plugs , fuel pump , coils ) So I would first have a look on the live data graph of all the air sensors and check for anything suspicious..
Searched my ass off to find this tutorial for my yaris and there it is,same engine on aygo :) my problem is that car is choking when accelerating in first gear only,and when I release the clutch,rest runs perfect.will definitely give this a try.Btw, isn't this the MAP sensor and not MAF? I was told 1kr-fe doesn't have a MAF sensor
NO EGR and yes, fuel filter in tank (part of pump assembly). Our C1 has done 80k miles now, so I'm thinking of converting to a replaceable filter. Naturally there will be a video if this works 👍
hi, i have some stuttering/shaking around 1400rpm accelerating or decelerating. Even when the car is stopped. I cleaned my throttle body but it wasn't dirty... Thank you btw for the previous video which help me to take off the throttle body ! I didn't see this video for the mass air flow. I will do it as soon as i can. But maybe i will need to clean the fuel injectors?
If it's at a specific rpms like 1400 in most of the cases is the transmission or timing belt / chain .. try to do more tests of the components you suspect . A good scan tool might be very usefull .
doit_vehicles i gonna try some other test. I hope it’s not the timing chain or transmission. Maybe the Silentbloc ? Could it be dangerous these trembling if it’s the timing chain ? Thank you
One question.does the oil steam from the engine ,pass straight to the engine without passing from the air filter before?if yes the sensor will covered by oil very quik .and one more,is dirty map sensor efect on fuel consumtion?did you see any diference after cleaning or its the same? Thank you.
Hi . Good questions..The most common way for the air sensors to get oil on is through pcv valve . Can fuel consumption be affected by an dirty map sensor ? Short answer : most likely . After cleaning it , it erased the code in my situation, therefore better fuel economy.
Depending of the condition you will find it after first inspection : like if there is oil on it or carbon ; and depending of the tipe of roads you drive : a village road will have more dust than a high way . So I would say something betwen 30 and 50 thousands km
My car can't make a quick stop. It starts then off. Had to wait 10 min before each stop to run the car. Also can't stay idle for long time or it engine off itself. Had changed spark. Coil. PVC. Fuel regulator. Still same. Problem started at snow weather.
