I own a 2005 6 cylinder Tacoma 4x4 with 242k miles. You should see how my truck purrs. It's my baby and my husband takes great care of it just like you do with the trucks you work on. Everything has to be done by specs. I hope one day I get to meet you and showcase my Taco.....I know you'll fall in love with it . Thanks for sharing your awesome videos. I learn so much from them.
We had an '86 with the 22R engine that did the same thing. Repeatedly while driving we noticed the temp gauge would go way up, then fall down fairly rapidly. We ended up finding a small hole in the radiator and saw we were very low on coolant. When we replaced the radiator and put the correct amount of coolant in, the up and down temperature problem went away. The sensor may be fine and it's a matter of making sure there's enough coolant in the system and no leaks.
Hey Peter. If the coolant level was really low, couldn't the temperature sending unit be exposed to some air and cause the fluctuating levels? Keep up the good work and thanks for all the great videos!!
Hi Peter. Thank you. Great video. I recently had the check engine light come on 2011 Toyota Sienna 2gre fe engine 158000 miles. I check code with Obd2 scan tool. CAM shaft vvt sensor bank 1. I think I may cause this check engine light due to recent oil change. Not sure. Access is so so. I would need to move some other stuff to remove. No time to attempt repair. Appointment made with local Toyota dealership. i learn as I go. Feel like a rookie mistake on my part. Just trying to take real good care of this vehicle Thank you Peter. You are awesome No time for kraut lately.
Totally agree w/ others about low coolant causing gauge fluctuations. Engine low on power, shakes, feels like it's not running right are possible symptoms of a hot engine, which low coolant level and air in the system will cause. Obviously the temp gauge will not reflect this condition if coolant can't reach it. And "no codes" could be because the misfire rate isn't severe enough to trip any. If it were me, I'd temporarily fill it up w/ water and drive it for a few hours and see where the coolant's going. Also pull the oil dipstick and check for presence of water, or a too-high oil level. And of course check for white smoke at startup. Signed, Old Fart Backyard Mechanic With No Formal Training ;)
I noticed the detail of the hood switch which I have installed before for not an alarm like he has. Which is period correct because 20 years ago that was considered protection. Now they don't care. But I installed it for a remote engine starter. Which is disabled when the hood is opened. Makes me wonder that large gauge wire and what it is used for. Maybe amp system of some kind for audio. Remember to tell the people some engines have bleeder bolts where you can allow the system to bleed put the pressure even further. And some also have drain bolts like in the 5S-FE to drain coolant from the block.
Intermittent problems can drive you nuts. I doubt the sensor will work properly if the system is quite low on coolant. Air bubbles hitting it could change the reading. If it was my truck, the first thing I would do is fill the system up to the proper level with the correct coolant. Then see how the sensor reacts. I wonder what the oil and fuel filters look like? And the throttle body and air filter. I'm sure Peter will examine those before doing any additional work.
That's an easy one, try replacing the coolant temperature sensor.....that thing is in back of the engine. WTF!!! I hope I don't break the pigtail clip...... lol
1996 toyota 4runner 2.7 engine , check engine comes and goes in low idle there is not communication on the scanner...when ligh is off I have communication but shows no codes...any idea.
Not only that, it needs to be filled regardless and the green stuff drained out. So why not put the water in and do a more through diagnoses? You can't let the customer drive away with no water or coolant. Check for leaks when it's pressured up. Could be as simple as a weak radiator cap and worn plugs, the sensor is not the underlying issue. You can't even tell if there is trash in the overflow from a head gasket breech. What did the oil dipstick show?
After taking the old sensor, I find the new sensor only screws in hallways, then becomes really tough to keep screwing in, is it supposed to sit only halfway in?
On another note, I have a 2003 Tacoma just like that one. Do you know how much those center caps for those wheels cost? When I came across some spares for free I snatched them up!
I changed the coolant temperature sensor. The easy one 83420-20040, and the temperature gauge cool to hot in less than 5 min. I am also goin to change the one in the back. 83420-20040. Do i need to reset anything. Disconnect the battery cable. The part is new. Santek brand part number CT0346.
