had the same problem with mine 95 xli liftback. the rotor arm and distribution cap at fault due to corrosion also changed fuse no. 25 in the fuse box its a 30amp fuse for the starting system. you can check for spark but make sure you use the ones that are in the block not just pull the lead and test with a new plug not the right way. you can also check to see if the throttle sensor is at fault by starting the car then unplug it if there is no difference that is the problem. Advice from a crazy Irish man.
throttle position sensor. Measure the output voltage and make sure it ramps along with your throttle position between 4v min at idle and 5v max at wide open throttle volts. A faulty TPS could definitely cause this. without tps correlation the ecu will compensate for slow changes, but that fast change it seems almost unrecoverable. The transfer from idle vacuum to 0 vacuum so quickly with faulty tps input will confuse the computer more quickly than it can accommodate for.
@@edgarfernandez463 There's a few more things to check before you overhaul the engine and fuel tank. Would be a shame to do that only to find a bad MAP or O2 that you didn't fix by loading an engine overhaul to your parts cannon.
I got the coil in from eBay yesterday, repaced it today,and boy what a difference! -Totally fixed the problem! Old coil was checking out so far as the ohms tests went, just maybe a little bit out of range (cheapo meter) but went on faith- and the little car runs fantastic! Now I've just got to get used to the new feel- or I'll risk blowing up the motor! -Seriously, really runs great- I could feel it from the first time I cranked it up with the new coil in it- totally spunky and good!
thanks bud I had the same issue and tested the coil and bam it was well over 2 ohms normal is under 1.7. So I changed it and its workig now like a champ.
Ethiopia4Ethiopians You're welcome (I guess you were talking to me...?) Yeah, that reading was right at 1.7- sometimes fluctuate to 1.8- but like I said, I really didn't trust my cheapo meter at that low a scale. Probably well over 2.0 ohms actually. -Sure does run better with a properly firing coil, doesn't it? I'm really pleased with my little $900 car now! -Glad you had good success!
+Daniel Kreischer I'm having this problem with my 91 Celica. I had a hunch it was my ignition coil. I think it is. I will order the parts and report back when I install them.
Crankshaft Position Sensor! Solved! I did fuel filter, fuel pump, distributor plugs and wires no help until I replaced this part! Found online for $20, auto zone wanted $80. Hope this helps you.
NO! Hello. In my case, it was bad TPS sensor. I have 7AFE engine, 1 cylinder misfires and engine often hesitates when accelerating. I thought that it was only bad ignition coil or only bad injector. But, I tried to disconnect the TPS sensor and engine run good.
Hello. In my case, it was bad TPS sensor. I have 7AFE engine, 1 cylinder misfires and engine often hesitates when accelerating. I thought that it was only bad ignition coil or only bad injector. But, I tried to disconnect the TPS sensor and engine run good.
SOLUTION: Ok I have 2005 Corolla E110, engine 4AFE, I had the same problem, South African made, it was doing the exact same thin, tried everything, from the MAF sensor, TPS sensor, CPS sensor, the problem was in the ECU, diode number D203 was faulty, replaced this and the car is alive now.
Hi David, I am from South Africa, I have got a toyota camry 2005 with hesitation, misfiring under load. Can you help to diagnose the ECU? I tried everything, rebuilt the head, changed cps, crank sensor, o2 sensor, maf sensor all OEM, injectors tested and recondionned, new 4 ignition coil pack, swap throttle body, new pump assemby but still no code, the car hesitates, low on power, misfires under load with no codes on the scanner. Although I changed spark plugs, the new one have white spots just a few kilometers.
I had this EXACT problem, right down to sounding like a lawn mower. The ignition coil was failed/failing. The coil was only three weeks old. I believe the problem was excessive spark plug gap (close to 0.60 worn out plugs), which put too much stress on the old, then the new coil.
had a problem like this on customer's car . ended up being a cracked coil. the spark Goes back to the coil through the crack causing hesitation on acceleration.
hello, how do you fixed it? i thing i have a same problem, but i was changed coil ignation, spark plug, and i cleaned up fuel filter and finally changed brand new fuel filter, this problem is not fixed.
I'm thinking of buying a 95 from my boss for a cheap daily driver and it used to do that. We put a new fuel pump in it and it foxed the problem. But.. now it bucks and studders under acceleration past half and sometimes quarter throttle. Non of us can figure it out and I'm/we're mechanics. So don't feel bad lol
i had a 93 awd toyota and everything worked perfect until i let it sit unused for the season . put cleaner in the fuel and did not help . tried again five or so months later and it would just so start . i noticed that the electric fuel pump sounded different and eventually the fuel pump quit working , no pump sound at all . its my belief and i do believe it needed a complete fuel tank cleaning , pump cleaning and lines flushed also pre injector and injectors cleaned . they have one injector in the intake for cold starting . if you have a four cylinder it would be one injector for every piston just before the head in the intake and one just before that in the intake . just for the record i've also had problems like that with those old 1970's vw manual injection systems . the cars were not worth fixing due to rust and just for curiosity sake i sprayed a mist of fuel into the intake and both cars would start up good and then when i drove i used a long small hose and kept the fuel flowing into the intake and no more bog . in my case it was a fuel related issue . never solved .
Check your distributor if there's a Crack on it the power to the spark plugs is going back into the Crack causing the car to misfire and hesitate to drive it is very common on 93 to 97 toyora corolla
Am having the same issue from my RX8 that I have modified and put a 7K EFI engine .Man it's started behaving just like this one and I fixed by cleaning the throlle and checking my fuel pump...i was told there was bad fuel in my tank! Check that...from Kenya with love
I replaced the crankshaft pulley, rubber damper is defective thus the wrong engine timing. Unfortunately i spent a lot on a new fuel pump, new ignition coil, new plugs, new icv and new high tension wires ...he he he now i have a lot of backup parts.
The exact same thing is happening to the one I'm working on. I have replaced the distributor, the spark plugs, checked compression, the injectors, the MAP sensor, the TPS, the filter, and still it continues to do that. If I fix this I will let everyone know exactly how.
@@NIP28 on the spark plug electrode means oil is getting in firing chamber bad sign , if it's on the outside, might just be PCV valve needs to be cleaned or replaced gasket on spark plug tube needs to be replaced also shorts out that cylinder...🤔✌️👍💪🙏
I had a similar issue with my Corolla, hesitating on acceleration. I changed spark plugs, ignition coils and fuel injectors. My mechanic did everything he could until a blown head gasket was discovered and car had to be scraped as it is beyond economical repair. Your issue may not be as severe as mine and that the issue could have another cause so it is worth a proper diagnosis.
Chris Lesmerises is right because I have the same issue, I tried to change ignition coil, the high tension wire, my spark plug is new so what is the problem still the engine is sluggish, so what I did I set the proper throttle position sensor.
I had a similar problem. And I found out that the connection between the spark plug wires and coils were bad. I have coil-on-sparkplug setup with two coils and four cylinders. A Mitsibishi carisma '97 4G92 engine. Now it seems there might be just a little hesitating but I'm almost there. Good luck!
Fiest disconnect the throttle position sensor. Take it for a spin. With my corolla that part i changed. The part you may need to change is the throttle position sensor.
What up post from 2012? So I had similar problems on my 2000 Celica. I changed the PCV valve and had no salvation. So I was looking around for vacuum leaks and unplugged the mass air flow sensor. Problem fixed. I plugged the sensor back in and again problems similar to yours. I recommend the mass air flow sensor.
Did you ever get that figured out? (I see it's been quite a while ago...) -I just bought the same (year, make, model) car with the same exact story/symptoms. I'm scouring the internets looking for likely causes, and the most likely I can come up with is the distributor. (I had even been pricing them on Ebay prior to making the purchase of the vehicle as it did hesitate a little bit on the test drive- just not as badly as it just did when I took it for a longer/higher speed shakedown cruise...) -The little thing runs like a striped-ass ape once you get it to 80mph -or whatever- it's just getting it there that's the problem! I've been a mechanic all my life, and these kind of problems are really what makes you earn your keep- and if you don't keep up with quirky things that go wrong...? (I've been disabled and not working in the field for probably 15+ years now.) Fuel delivery seems to be what pops into mind first, then exhaust blockage, EGR, etc... but - like your fuel filter observation- there are inconsistencies that eliminate each of those as the cause of your (our) problem by themselves. Anyway, I was hoping you'd gotten to the root of your problem by now, and for some reason just hadn't gotten around to posting the solution. -If you have, please do so! -If you still have the car and are still trying to figure it out feel free to message me and at least we can compare notes as to what has ( :) ) or has not ( :( ) worked! I'm going to scour a little bit more in these Toyota clubs and what have you, tomorrow I'll try and pull the distributor apart and see if there's any visual signs of deterioration- If I hear from you (or anybody else reading this) then I'll report my findings. Say a little prayer...
You are exactly right bro. My car had the same issue and one day the mechanic figure out that ignition coil inside the distributor needs to be replaced. After that its all fine.
And you'll be replacing it again in less than 6 months...Don't be a cheap ass, just buy the distributor, and not the cheapest one...youre the reason tech's like me charge so much, because you're fucking clueless...youre an idiot
@@marcyduggan5193 junk yards are cool. But when money is a factor and if it gets them 6 months then it did its job as far as im concerned. I got my coil off Amazon something like. 6 years ago and its still ticking fine. Or go Rockauto. 6 months can be enough for a lot to happen. And honestly I wont knock it. To each their own. Ive been a cheap ass with my Hondas and they have run forever. 2 brands to avoid are Detroit axle and TRQ from them 1A auto people.
you guys are not alone I've changed the coil the ignition leads cleaned the injectors had the head completely re done its cost me a lot of cash and I'm still sitting with the same problem
@@terenceodendaal9275 my experience with Chevy in tank fuel pumps is they just quit at 90,000 miles. Are you saying the fuel pump quits performing properly and acts like this while on last legs?
Map sensor needs to be cleaned. Take it off, spray it with carb cleaner or Map sensor cleaner, blow out with compressed air carefully, reinstall. Should take 10 minutes.
I had the same problem car was down for some years with not so frequent starting up hesitated just as this video...got new injectors and problem fixed until now...it does the same thing again. I'm assuming its bad gas clogging the injectors
My 1999 has similar problems, losing coolant and engine misfire,replaced coils and plugs leads no luck, blown head gasket I assume, poured K seal feel better now.
i had a 93 awd toyota and everything worked perfect until i let it sit unused for the season . put cleaner in the fuel and did not help . tried again five or so months later and it would just so start . i noticed that the electric fuel pump sounded different and eventually the fuel pump quit working , no pump sound at all . its my belief and i do believe it needed a complete fuel tank cleaning , pump cleaning and lines flushed also pre injector and injectors cleaned . they have one injector in the intake for cold starting . if you have a four cylinder it would be one injector for every piston just before the head in the intake and one just before that in the intake . just for the record i've also had problems like that with those old 1970's vw manual injection systems . the cars were not worth fixing due to rust and just for curiosity sake i sprayed a mist of fuel into the intake and both cars would start up good and then when i drove i used a long small hose and kept the fuel flowing into the intake and no more bog . in my case it was a fuel related issue . never solved . .
From experience I wold say check the ignition timing and also make sure the distributor is properly earthed to the engine block - add an additional "ground" wire from the distributor to he engine block
got the same problem 92 Corolla just replaced the ignition coils, plug wires and spark plugs (one of which had oil in it) but I don't understand why I got worse when I put in the new parts
PCV valve stuck , replacement or cleaning, clean oil out of tube had same issue, ignition coil, distributor cap / wires replaced short from oil toasted all of them , from cheap plastic valve not opening to let pressure built up in engine...🤔✌️💪👍🙏
When is the last time you changed the air filter? Every year it should be changed @ fall or winter. Check each coil pack area over the spark plug for moisture, could be causing it to short. Washing the engine, water gets in.
i just fixed it on my toyota it was the mass air flow sensor that needed cleaning. it happens after replacing the battery on toyota or lexus. so clean that sensor very well and let it sit for half hour then put it back.
Hei man!you was my Engel today you save my ass😅,it was exactly as you said😮my car issue has been fixed by your advice😊thank you sooooooo muchhhhh.you are the best😊be stay the best😊
I have a 93 Toyota Corolla had the same problemon idle was perfect on acceleration it choked i changed the throttle sensor and nothing so i changed the Fuel Regulator and that did the trick hope it works for you ....
I am facing a different problem with my AE110 (5A). At night time, when the headlights are on & my car is warm, the RPM drops, and the engine gets off when I slow down from higher speed. RPM gets worst while driving slowly on heavy traffic. Also, if I turn the steering wheel to the last portion to take a tight U-turn, then RPM also falls down, and the start gets down. Please Suggest me
If my engine run cool and i start it. its bofflin and then when its warm up it run straight... when it stay over night and i try starting it in the more it shuts off and i start again for 4takes its bofflin then it runs good.... can someone help me out???? Toyota corolla 1999 waggon 4a engine
The problem with the 1994 Toyota Corolla Wagon is when the engine is working and it is cool working the speed regulator to increase the fuel and when the right heat reaches the engine must decrease the speed of the engine noise but it remains in a state of rise and sometimes rise and fall intermittently what is the problem please help?
I have a 1995 Toyota Corolla, the engine light is on when I drive it like a minute, when I check the code it say knock sensor. I get a new knock sensor and replace the old one. Clear the code and go again same thing happen. Clean the throttle body but it idle high, I try the adjustable screw but nothing. The thing is when I start to drive the engine light is off and it seem to run fine but just as the light is on it looses power when accelerating..with having the peddal to the floor still struggling for power. But when I check the code it still say knock sensor.. any suggestions please..
Hello, I'm having exactly the same issue as you. Knock sensor code error 52 - did you solve it ? Your car struggles for power because when the knock sensor code appears, the ECU retards timing to protect the engine. You shut the engine off, car cools down .. you start is again - everything is fine until the knock sensor code appears. Please let me know if you solved this ..
Mine does this as well, but on certain days, it drives just fine ( Mine is an 1986, Carburetor ) I'm thinking my issue may be a float issue, when the carb is taking more fuel than it can pump.
Listen if you have done all trouble shooting and still have the problem look at the connection on the distributer the one that goes back to the rmp clock see if the wires are wringed out at the neck after one whole year a technician glimpse it by mistake and fix my exact problem as yours
Hello everyone problem I've seen and experienced with my 1993 corolla 4efe and other a series engines is the map sensor wire right at the map sensor plug normally breaks just give it a check first ecm retards engine when signal not correct if it's the wire just solder it or change plug on
i have used sea foam, which you can pick up at a local auto parts store. it may help and its only about $7. i have installed by pulling brake booster hose and sucking it into intake and then i put the rest in the fuel tank. worth a shot maybe??!!! good luck.
well, hate to say that after a few years of use some thing has to go wrong. Ive changed coil spark plug even repaired some part of the trans .fuel filter rings and i know its a nice car ,very economic would want to fix the slogish out of it.
Did you find out what the issue was with yout Prizm 2 years ago? I have the same issue. I'm getting all kinds of answers from mechanics and I dont know what to think. Please reply. Thanks.
I have the same problem will sit and run but you put in drive or reverse an it cuts out, you can let sit over night will go couple miles then sputters an cuts out an will crank back but try to give gas will cut out , tryed seafom didn;t do any good, did everything in video still the same way, had a mechic look at he said fuel filter or pump. Please someone HELP, don't have alot money to keep spending