Couple of observations : Look into dielectric grease for the silver plate surface and don't know if you did, but I would have cleaned the 3 contacts with some Emory cloth. and also put some dielectric grease on them.
This is Amazing, I can't seem to find much of anything regarding the FRONT e-locker actuator but you seem to have nailed it with this video. I bought the $230 harness from low range 4x4 and there is virtually NO INFORMATION regarding the switch operation on their website and the customer service guys are clueless, even the sarcastic guy that supposedly has a degree in electronics, he told me that you just need to press the switch momentarily, not hold it as you demonstrate at the end of this video. Anyway, GREAT VIDEO on the disassembly, cleaning, and re-assembly of the FRONT e-locker actuator, THANK YOU!!
You did a really nice job. I had to rebuild 2 of these myself, for the front and rear of my Land Cruiser. Pretty much the same problems. Corrosion and loose magnets. I didn’t make them look nearly as nice as you did though! Good work.
Awesome videos! Will definitely be using this info to confidently rebuild my front locker now. Is there any chance you have a layout of the wiring on the actuator to a 6 pin plug? The plug on my rear locker broke and it's impossible to trace the wires back to switch as the colours are different and it's a mess. Thanks in advance
Alllllrighty, I dug out my notes, here's what I've got. My actuator has 5 wires, 2 are heavier gauge than the other 3. The two heavy gauge wires are both green, with one having a red stripe. These heavy wires go to the motor brushes. According to my notes, Green with Red is Unlock and Green is Lock. The other 3 wires are a little tricky, there is Black, Yellow and Green (lighter than the brush wire) basically they sense the position of the actuator. Black is common. You should get no continuity between Black and Yellow when the actuator is Unlocked and no continuity between Black and Green when the actuator is Locked (to be honest, this may be reversed, sadly I don't remember for sure, lol I'm pretty sure this is right tho). This should help: imgur.com/FtZXPYb I want to do a good video on the wiring, but I've been busy with other things lately, :( Hopefully this helps you out! I'm happy to answer more questions should you have any. :)
Very cool, I bought front and rear axles for my 96LC on ebay and luckily the actuators were in pretty good shape, my question is whether or not the locker will engage even when the splines aren't lined up, in other words, once you press the switch, will it spring load to engage once the splines line up, IF THEY AREN'T WHEN YOU INITIALLY PRESS THE SWITCH? I hope you understand my question.
Hey! Congrats on the ebay score! Ya, the spring keeps good preload on the clutch, it pops in once the splines line up to lock. Same when it disengages, once the tension gets released, it pops out and unlocks. Pretty clever, simple mechanism. Hope that helps! 🙂
Great work! Exactly what I needed so I can clean mine up. Could you please list the size/ thread pitch of the replacement hex screws you used? Thanks again!
@@amielsstuff3262 Thanks very much. In the process of getting it all cleaned and ready for re assembly! Great idea making a mating surface with JB Weld, my O ring channel has deteriorated.
I did install it, I have the footage, I need to finish the video, but my life has been, uh, interesting as of late, lol. I had to grind a fair bit off the side of the diff to clear the ubolt. Probably a good 1/16 to 1/8, way more than I expected.
I'm still planning to do a follow up to this video as soon as things calm down for me... In the meantime, I hope this helps! :) It's a basic circuit you can find online. There's a few things I don't like about it but it does work. I'm working on a better circuit that will be featured in a future video. This is the basic circuit I used: www.off-road.com/images/content/2-Justin-Schematic-OEM-Toyota-E-Locker-6-24-15.jpg What I don't like is it runs the full motor current through the little sensor contacts and wires. But it does work and lots of folks run it like this!
I do, it's a basic circuit you can find online. There's a few things I don't like about it but it does work. I'm working on a better circuit that will be featured in a future video. This is the basic circuit I used: www.off-road.com/images/content/2-Justin-Schematic-OEM-Toyota-E-Locker-6-24-15.jpg What I don't like is it runs the full motor current through the little sensor contacts and wires. But it does work and lots of folks run it like this!
@@amielsstuff3262 Awesome, thanks so much for sharing! I just got an elocker that i'm going to swap into my 4runner so I've been contemplating/researching different wiring solutions. This is super helpful, thanks! Looking forward to seeing your future videos!
@@amielsstuff3262 I’m wondering what you don’t like about it? I really like the simple On-Off-On momentary setup for 3 reasons: (1) Zero voltage at the axle unless my finger is on the button, (2)no computers or relays to fail, and (3) the ability to “rock” a sticky actuator back and forth to free it up. That is something the OEM Control Unit cannot do.
@@keithgillette9537 I love the simplicity of the circuit as well, very little to go wrong and puts you in control of the entire process. The only thing I don't like about it is the having the motor current traveling through the little sensor contacts and back and forth from the switch and actuator. My final circuit will power one/two relays to power the motor rather than powering the motor directly. I'm guessing the motor would have a little more 'oompf' if it had a relay. I'd also like an indicator of some kind to tell me if the motor is spinning or is stalled since I can't hear it inside the truck. I may be overthinking it, but that's kinda my thing, lol.
hhmmmmmmmm locker..... What about a having the switch run some kind of timed relay? say power is provided for 2x the seconds it needs to engage on the bench.
