Wow, what are the major repairs/replacements done so far? My Camry 1999 V6 Japan made with 256K miles has fewer major problems than my newer Camry 2010 I4 with 110K miles. The parts with noticeable wear and tear on the 1999 Camry V6 are rubber related: rear motor mount and top strut mount and lower control arm bushings.
My 1999 Camry's about 333k miles on regular oil change intervals and havent had a major till last month. Power steering fluid dripping onto the garage pavement. Hoping its the line leaking and not the power steering unit itself. Both valve gaskets and plugs were change last month on full service overhaul. Shit never lets me down
@@xXAsunaxKiritoXx I notice my 99 Camry v6 has rusty power steering return lines but with no leaks yet. I already got the PS horse to replace the return line.
Updated ;) Just turned 388k on my '99 Avalon. Mobil 1 every 5k miles (and lots of other preventative maintenance) and still runs perfect. Original trans is perfect too (at this point I change the trans filter and fluid along with a bottle of Lucas every 3rd or 4th engine oil change and it stays nice and clean). And original AC too (hey it's Florida haha). What a fantastic car.
99 toyota sienna 240,000 south florida. but just recently saw steam a few times from under the hood. No water in the oil or losing coolant either. I hope a head gasket has not gone leaking. But I drove 80 miles and only for a few seconds and then nothing.
@@JohnSmith-uy7sv Pretty good chance it's a leaking valve cover gasket, which they're known for and thankfully is more of a nuisance than anything else. Mine would do it periodically. Oil drips onto the hot manifold and you get some smoke from under the hood when you stop at a light. If you're downwind and smell burning oil that's probably what it is. It'll catch you off guard haha but mine eventually crusted over and kinda self healed lol. I'll probably change them next time I do the timing belt service but I'm in no rush lol.
In an online web page I read that: The Avalon was the only car in the top 10 list of vehicles that have more than 3% of the amount built on the road 20 years later. The rest are SUVs and pickup trucks.
A while back, I discovered black sooty gunk under the oil filler cap/filler area of my 2001 Sienna XLE V6 VVTI. It has over 185k miles, I had both valve covers removed but there was virtually no sludge underneath, the cylinder heads were pristine. Oil changes are done at 3.5k miles, full synthetic oil; no seal leaks, no valve rattles, runs and shifts like a charm. Apart from a flashing check engine light that emerged at around 170k miles caused by a bad ignition coil that triggered a misfire, its been flawless. Great engine!
Not a fair point to highlight sludge buildup in the baffle of the front valve cover. Picture of sludge in valvetrain underneath is better example! My 1999 Avalon has same amount of sludge buildup but runs perfectly!!! MAJOR oil sludge buildup is Toyota corporate and owner/operator fault, not the engine fault. This is the BEST V6 engine that Toyota made. No discussion! SEVEN models had this engine.
FYI! SLUDGE in the oil filler hole does not mean sluge in the engine. I replace the front cover gasket in 2001 Avalon and inspected for sludge in the cams. I had sluge in the oil filler hole, but no sluge inside the engine. There's a metal plate under the filler hole that guides the oil to engine which only has a small amount of sludge.
@@Boebus666 Valve guide seals are wearing, smokes on start up. Still runs great and has tons of power. I think i have 150k on the spark plugs! They are the one thing I neglected. And no transmission issues ether.
My 1996 Avalon with the 1MZ-FE engine has 421,000 miles. It runs like new. The previous owner had the valve seals replaced at about 390,000 miles. It had some sludge build-up when I got it, but I changed the oil a few times at short intervals and dropped the oil pan and cleaned, and the sludge is gone. With proper maintenance and attention to detail, I have no doubt these engines can last 1,000,000 miles.
Got mine at 116,500 changed oil right away then every 4,000 miles after that full synthetic starting to get oil burned on where the cap screws on. Burns no oil.
I’d agree if it wasn’t for my 01 Camry with the 1MZ basically blowing a head gasket, which I assumed cus I had just done recent oil change and coolant flush, and filled it to the top. Now there’s like no coolant left, and the car runs like shit and feels like it’s misfiring. Plus it can be pain to do a head gasket especially on these
As long as you change your oil when you are supposed to, this engine will not have a sludge issue. I have a 1998 with the 1MZ-FE, with 95,000 miles, about 2 years ago I had the valve cover gasket changed, and it was very clean inside. If you do not change the oil when you are supposed to, you will get this sludge problem. This is one smooth running engine, that is for sure!
When you opened the oil filler and showed all that sludge, I ran out to my Camry to check! There's only minimal build up. The engine has just over 200K on it. It runs smooth and quiet, and doesn't leak or burn oil at all. I change the oil every 3,000 miles like clockwork. Matter of fact, I'm going tomorrow for the oil change.
I've got a 99' Avalon with 380k on it with no big signs of sludge. It does consume about a quart of oil every 3000 mi or so but I assume that's to be expected with the high mileage. I used to own a 96' Lexus ES300 with the same 1mz and it never died. Sold it with over 300k on it.
Awesome video! hit the LIKE button. Thanks for the knowledge. Im currently car shopping and am now considering this car. I just need something reliable to get me to work and back and for about the same price as an Accord or Camry...these are now on my radar...
I have a 03 Rx300 and this car is just absolutely flawless and smooth for a car with 200k miles. Only thing to watch out for are knock sensors, replace PCV valve every 50k miles with original OEM only, oil change no more than 5k miles with high mileage synthetic oil (this actually works better than regular synthetic oil), and transmission every 30-40k miles. Valve cover gasket can be done (if leaking) same time as timing belt along with crank and cam seals every 150k. I had the original done at 170k and the mechanic told me it looked new.
I bought a 99 Camry last August. I was aware of sludge issues with this engine. I bought a new PCV valve from the dealer. I changed the oil and filter, and changed the oil and filter again after 450 miles. While draining the oil I blasted out that area where the fill cap is with brake clean again and again. Oil and new Toyota OEM oil filter every 4000 miles with mostly highway driving.
@Eric Kimmy well, I didnt seem to have further sludge issues with my 99. My 99 got into a wreck. I bought a 2000 with a 1mzfe after that - very similar car. Same v6. Had to replace knock sensors and harness. While the whole intake assembly was off I removed the rear valve cover and front. The rear valve cover has a baffle where the pcv valve is installed. You can buy a new valve cover for $200 or clean the old one. I soaked the old one in carburetor soak and hit it with a power washer and hot water many times. Next day I power washed it more and hit it with compressed air. I replaced the pcv valve with one from the dealer. Get the red one! The red one is more air flow. The one from the dealer is the same as the standard motor products one from rock auto though. Both say Toyota. $8 vs 20 at the dealer. You must change it every 6 months to a year.
Hey brother, an Indian mechanic mentioned this brake cleaner trick. Can you give me further details. What about a cup of diesel in it, run it hit then drop the oil and replace filter and oil??? But yes, more about that break cleaner trick please
I have an 03 camry with this engine.it has 124,000 miles, just did valve cover gaskets and it was nice and clean inside.keep your oil changed with a quality oil and filter and your trans serviced and you'll be fine.
1MZ-FE's are a brilliant V6 Later ones (post 2002) had a revised PCV setup, larger oil return holes, different oil seperator baffles (atleast in Australia) which eliminated sludge or carbon build up. Running full synthetic and changing it every 5000mi/7500km will keep these otherwise trouble free V6's running flawlessly. Regular maintenance see's well past 500k on'em This one is an early 1MZ-FE, so sludge is no suprise.
@@heitorbernardes7977 The revised heads have new baffles, mines got almost 255k km on it, no real deposits because i use full synthetic oil & change it every 7500km regardless
I have a 2000 Camry with the V6. Just bought it. 185k miles. Seems to run super good and smooth. Really happy so far. Problem is I dont know when the timing chain was replaced last. Their is no tag on the cover and the lady I bought it from said the original owner told her he did it but she did not now when. How often are people doing the timing belt on these real world scenario. I met a woman at a gas station that told me she never replaced hers and her car had 300k on it. Lol
I have a low mileage 1995 Camry. It's only done 200k miles! Toyota dealer did the valve clearances at 190k miles and said it was in very good condition. People might like to know that after that job was done, fuel mileage increased about 15-20%. Power also increased by a similar amount. It will now do 380 miles of freeway miles on a tank of fuel, or around 405 to tank run-out empty. I mention because this is more than I ever remember it doing even at 50k miles. So it looks like valve clearances matter quite a lot. Oil had been changed around 4-6k miles using Castrol full synthetic. The gearbox oil has also been changed around every 4 oil changes because they say this gearbox runs hot and dirty, having no filter.
According to Amsoil lab test MotorKote is 28 percent chlorinated parrafin. Turns oil corrosive to bearings rumor has it. A guy on bitog (Bob is the oil guy) posted about his ruined Cummins diesel. I would love to use this product but....???? Bleach does the same on the timken tester.
The valve cover gaskets leak every 8 to 10 years. You will lose about a half quart of oil every month if not fixed. I've also had a few warm start issues where the engine wouldn't start because of carbon build-up in the throttle body. I've always used Top Tier premium gas. Lastly, there is an occasional engine knock for a few seconds when accelerating. The owner's manual even mentions that and says it's normal. Other than that, 18 years of service so far.
Thank you for your videos. They are always quite instructional. I have an issue with this engine (on a Highlander 2003): it has normal power on 1st gear, but when it is transitioning on the 2nd gear the engine hesitates, and if I push the gas pedal, it knocks. I've read in the owner's manual that this engine "may produce knocking when being pressed uphill... I've changed everything I've could think of: knocking sensor, timing belts, timing sensor, variable valve timing, plugs, ignition coils, OS sensors (both in the front), catalytic and yet, still the problem is there, though a little milder. I use synth oil. I suspect that the problem is the oil burn out build up that is somewhere inside the engine where I can't see it. Can you please give me your advise what can I do to safely get rid of this oil burn out build up inside the engine, without further damaging it? -- I love my highlander (2003) and I would like to keep it. Thanks and greetings from Canada.
under my oil cap looked the same but pulled off the valve cover and no sludge. I changed oil every 5k miles. the top baffle that you see gets hot and burns layer of oil.
I've got a 1997 Camry with this engine with only 98.500km (now it has 112.000km) and looks the same under the cap. Next week I'm taking the car to the mechanic and replace the back valve cover which is leaking oil and spilling (and destroying) the right CV boots and I'm thinking in replacing both valve covers to check how's the engine inside. I'm praying the engine is clean so I don't have to do that repair of cleaning and resealing the engine.
@@paradisopaul yep have a 98 and have to do the same. they changed the pcv design as it blocks and leads to sludging. You can easily pull out the pcv and clean it yourself with degreaser etc or buy the newer ones.
@@shadako2 Well, the mechanic replaced the rear valve cover gasket 11 months ago when I made that comment and unfortunately the engine was kinda dirty with sludge. The car has now 118.000 kilometers (just 6.000 km/3.700 miles more) because I just barely use it to some road trips or when the other cars need service.
@@paradisopaul oh ok, I meant I have to change cvs on mine. they are only available as axles here in Australia. The steering rack also seems to be dirty on mine, all from the valve cover. And could be related to sludge as well. I think short trips can cause sludge but as long as oil is changed should be ok.
Hey 👋 guys I’m 27 years old and I just buy a Lexus ES300 from 2000 with only 87000 miles, very very well maintained car. What do you think 🤔??? I’m very glad to hear that there is a lot of engines if this type with many many miles !!! I hope enjoy it for a very long time !!!
@@familyfirst1st102 how much did you pay for it? I'm looking at a 2000 LE with 122,000 miles for $2000 but it leaks oil and needs suspension work. At least that's what I'm being told.
282,000 k on my 2005 toyota camry altise v6 and i bought it off an elderly couple for $4000.00 in mint condition, one owner in 17 years log books up till 250,000 k. Runs and drives like a new car still.
The bad knock sensor code is a bummer because car retards timing fully and has no OD; its gutless. Easy fix is jumper one good knock sensor to both ECU pins, then its good until other sensor goes. When sensor reads bad it often because shielded wiring harness shorts to ground; always replace harness with new one if you repair bad knock sensor.
I had the knock sensor replaced on my '03 lexus, and the mechanic found a mouse nest inside the plenum. Apparently they made the wire insulation out of soy, which attracts mice like flies on shit.
Very, Very good video! I live in Brazil, and I'm a proud owner of a 2001 Camry XLE V6 with this wonderful engine! It´s smooth, silent, powerfull, reliable and is also a non-interference engine (mine doesn't have VVTi)!!
@@atx-cvpi_99 I was referring to all 1mz-fe engines. There are some people who argue there is not enough evidence the 3mz-fe is interference. Regardless, no version of the 1mz-fe is interference.
I had 265K on a 99 Camry V6 when I sold it. Ran perfect - it had sludge only at the oil fill location (we took the valve cover off and it all looked fine) - I think it "cooks" around the oil fill spot on some engines.
Have a 3mz-fe in a 04 rx, the baffle spot at the fill area looks always cooked on almost every toyota v6 model ive seen. Has 250k miles on original radiator, engine, transmission, and power steering.
Hi, I have my Toyota camry grande 2003 , v6, with the same engine, would you please show me where is the knock sensor because I had a P0325 fault code. It shows that there is an issue with the nock sensor.
My 2002 Toyota Sienna with the same motor. She has 277,000 miles on her n she runs like she did when she rolls off the line. Just change the oil n filter with penz oil n gvae her a good fluid top off. I have the VVT-I
I have a 200 1 Sienna with this engine. 450,000 miles with the original transmisson also. I monitor the condition of the oil and have kept a 5,000 mile change until recently. Now I chnge at 3,000 miles. Not burning oil . I do use Castrol full synthetic 5W30. My other advice is to use OEM air and oil filters. Remember there are tons of counterfeits on Ebay and Amazon. Purchase through the dealer. Not worth the consequences. As well as spark plugs andany electrical sensors.
I have a 0171 code in my Toyota Alphard V6 2006 1mz-Fe 220hp 😮switched off the engine , code didn’t came back on . What should I do ? To check where it’s coming from ?
my 1mzfe is at 290k, its in great condition and has no sludge as is common with this engine. I use Plus, no ethanol fuel. I can outpace an STI on a good day and be comfortable doing so.
I went to the junk yard to get light lenses and noticed there is only one type of V6 Camry there in the large population. Firstly, all the cars had over 300k miles. Second, they were all crashed. This led me to the following conclusions. Firstly, if a car less than 300k miles is crashed, it gets repaired. Second, if it is not crashed, it never goes to the junk yard no matter the mileage!!
I must be very unlucky because on my lexus es ,the knock sensor went bad on bank one, it is the only one i worked on, as a private owner. The car had 100K miles, when it happened
I'm getting a lean bank1 error code logged on my 1mz-fe. Quick question does it have a ecu temp sensor on each bank for fueling. I've no air leaks as smoke tested it and im not sure what's causing it, maybe pcv valve? Whats your thoughts. . Thank you. I love my Toyota.
I think I had a similar code, I had a vacuum leak from the brake booster. I replaced the booster and also out in fresh NGK sparkplugs. Got rid of the code.
Thank you! I found the problem. It was a dirty maf meter calculating the air flow coming in. All sorted and been fine for 30k miles. Thank you for the response. :)
If you change the oil every 5000 k you will not get sludge build up,my camry had the canshaft cover gaskets done last year and there was zero sludge and no varnishing because the oil was changed every 5000k. If you look after these engines they are bulletproof and will last well over 500,000k.
Hellooo,,,please please, help me identify the Fuel Temperature sensor "circuit B" that the OBII is referring to in this 1MZFE engine. i am stuck trying to locate it. Please help
Due to the design of the oil fill it sludges up under the cap regardless of how often the oil is changed. It is out of the direct oil flow path so what little gets up there gets cooked and builds up over time. Power steering pumps like to leak too. If you put regular power steering fluid and not ATF it ruins the seals and leaks. Beyond that its reliable and easy to work on. The rear plugs are doable, theres enough room under the intake to get them out. The engine is non interference so a snapped timing belt wont grenade it and the starter is incredibly easy to replace. My friend has one at 200k, it gets driven hard and starts every time. Leaks power steering and oil but its not a big deal.
Someone help me I own a 94 Camry v6 and today when I was putting my car in the garage, the oil light started blinking and felt the engine failing for just a second then quickly turned it off, checked the oil level and it’s full, I’m so worried praying that it’s not the damn oil pump and it’s just sludge on the pickup tube and a bad pressure sensor cause the light was blinking
I have a 1994 Camry V6 3.0L with 145,000 miles and I have a mysterious oil leak. I was told after I had the valve cover gaskets replaced that there was a chance of it being the oil pump seal or cam seal. Any ideas on what I should look for or try to do before taking the timing belt cover and stuff off?
The 1mz doesn't have any Inherent Problems. The sludge issue is caused by owners not maintaining period. As for the Knock Sensors, they are a little too sensitive, that's an ECU issue but run Premium and you won't have an issue. 440k on my 2000 Solara SLE and still going strong
Yes. The grommet might be hard if it’s been there awhile. So it’ll probably break into smaller pieces when trying to take it out. I use the small hook set from harbor freight. I remember paying somewhere around $1.50 for them. Grommet and PCV valve is super cheap too.
@@guidedbygreen1480 The main big piece broke in half so I was able to grab it with long needle nose pliers but it's too big for the hole and would not come out.
I have 260k miles on my 2000 Toyota Avalon 1mzfe and it runs smooth like a baby's paady. Only thing is that it burns 2 quarts of oil between oil changes(3k mile interval) since 124k miles but it still drives nice.
My 2000 sienna is great. I do too much maintenance on it that is probably unnecessary. I put rod bearings in at 237,000 only because when i change oil it knocked when it pressurized the oil filter. Its whisper quiet at oil changes now and only cost me $40 to do. I have 252,000 on now but have seen a bunch of those vans with over 300,000 for sale. My goal is 308,000 because vi bought it at 208,000
@@danielplumley2649 you have to take the exhaust out of the way. All 4 bolts will break off even red from a torch. Just drill them out and put in 3/8 bolts. Next remove all oil pan bolts. (Dont forget the front 2 that screw into the A/C compressor) After you pop the pan off then remove the pickup tube and your ready to start the process. Put a socket on the crank and carefully rotate the first rod all the way down working left to right. Remove the rod cap and use your thumbs to lightly push the piston up until the upper bearing can be removed. Clean the rod with a paper towel and roll the new bearing into place. Oil the bearing and carefully pull it back down on the crank. I did it without scatching the crank with the rod bolt. Put the cap back up with the oiled new cap bearing and torque to 29 ft pounds. Repeat until the job is done.
Billy Jack thanks! I am in the process of removing the exhaust right now. Surprisingly the bolts are coming off very easily with a powerful impact gun. I can’t fit the impact gun on the 2 rear exhaust bolts where the front of the exhaust attaches to the rear (with the springs on them) any ideas to remove those? They are very rusty.
@@danielplumley2649 i dont remember if i touched them with a torch and then swung a box end wrench but thats probably what i did. I had a new converter set up when i did mine. Muffler Express has a very nice piece for those vans for $199.00 if i remember correct
Are there any ways to remove the sludge aside from taking off the valve covers and just getting in there and getting dirty? My car has 244000 miles on it, it's RX300 and the engines doing okay but I'm a little worried about the transmission because it's kind of clunking down into first gear and it tends to clunk from 3rd and Overdrive, it's due for another drain and flush but I know the Transmissions are a little weak for an all wheel drive car, it was rebuilt it a hundred and sixty Thousand Miles and I'm hoping it'll last me another fifty to a hundred because I do like the car aside from the fact that things like the power locks the DVD navigation in the HVAC system or all giving me issues
the reason you probably never replaced the knock sensors at the toyota dealership is because the sensors being sensitive doesn’t throw a check engine light, it will just pull timing as u know, and make the car have at least usually 20-40less hp because of the timing being adjusted for detonation even if its not happening, i know people who mod them use teflon tape around the threads to dampen the engine vibrations and make it not pull timing 👍🏽 mine has 200k, and the oil thing is super true, ive gone 10k without a change and its not a good idea but shes still running perfect but i will change more often now to hopefully get her to 500k+miles!
If these engines are looked after properly and oil is changed every 5000 kilometres ( not miles -it’s a Japanese engine and they use metric ) they will not sludge up at all. I have a 2005 Camry with this engine and it has 280,000 kilometres on the odometer and it doesn’t use oil and doesn’t sludge up and the oil stays a nice golden honey colour between oil changes.
The only v6 offered in Australia over the same years was the 3vz. I haven't heard of the 1mz before. I had an mx62 cressida, 5me engine with 425000 km and it was still going strong and when the trans was serviced the service guy said the trans was like new. I sold that cressida with 525000 km and it was still going strong
For any 1MZ-FE engine you come across, it's good idea to change the oil. Then in 100 miles change the oil again. Drive another 100 mi, change it again. If it's clean or substantially cleaner, you're done. Follow the video advice and change your oil every 3,500 miles and you'll be fine, with one of the best V6 engines ever built. Sir Sweetness is right, the PCV is sensitive. Keep your valve rattling like new and change the oil. Doesn't have to be synthetic. Castrol 5W-30 synthetic blend is ideal. Doesn't "realize" leaks as much as full synthetic, and has good sludge prevention properties.
heymisterderp every 100 miles? That seems excessive, since I have sludge I use synthetic oil and doing it every 3k miles for now, but if changing it earlier will help the sludge go faster I'll do it
@@donaldj.trumpfromthetrench8849 Only if it's a "new" car you're unfamiliar with, then it wouldn't hurt to look every 100 miles at least. Curious how you know you have sludge? Easiest thing for an unfamiliar vehicle is change the oil and watch it. Oil color doesn't mean much generally but if it gets really dirty very quickly it can be a first clue. Flushing motors of sludge is risky business so prevention is the best cure. Every 3-4k is fine if you're keeping ahead of an already existing problem with that interval. Castrol has excellent anti-sludge additives fwiw. The high mileage version has conditioners for the rubber seals the oil makes contact with which can prevent or minimize leaks. Good luck
heymisterderp I looked at the oil cap and it looked so dirty so I did some research and came across this video and found out other cars have that problem too. I haven't even driven 10k miles since I bought the car yet, I bought it at about 123,k I did my next at 128k even though it has a 7500 span I did it a bit early but I'm going to do my next at 131k to see if it helps get rid of the sludge, also any idea if it the cause of poor performance because my plugs are good and I already cleaned out the deposits and still no difference.
@@donaldj.trumpfromthetrench8849 I highly doubt sludge is causing your problem. If you're having runnability problems and no codes, I'd take it a pro you trust with a dealer level scan tool and scan the bejeezus out of it. There's all kinds of potential reasons why it's not running well. A dirty oil cap is not evidence of an active sludge issue. Looking under the valve cover would be at least some evidence. Sludge damage would manifest as extracurricular noises coming from your engine... knocking or loud ticking, burning/using oil.
60 thousand miles is practically new. Mine has 180 thousand on it and still rides like new. Change oil regularly and check keep pcv valve clean and it willl go 300,000 easily
Very Reliable....I had a 1997 Camry 1MZ-FE V6 which is the same as your Avalon. I changed the oil every 3k miles and I never had an issue. The only thing I would suggest is using quality oil and a quality filter. About the only engine problems I had with my Camry was the O2 Sensors would only last 60k miles but the dying sensor problems began when the car hit 160k miles. The starter died at 200k miles but changing out the starter is very easy. One thing I learned the hard way is to only use OEM parts or take the car to a mechanic that uses OEM parts. I had a waterpump fail around 30k miles after the T-Belt change. I also had problems with Parts Store Starter, Blower Motor, and MAF sensor.
You are 110% oil built ups so badly. I am using Mobile One Synthetic 5W30. My question to you, 2000 Camry V6 3.0L 1MZ-FE starting misfired 2, 4, 6. What are the possibilities for intermittent stall, poor idle- roughness/shaking, lacking power acceleration, etc. It’s also indicating: P0172 / 1) Pending: System Too Rich, (A/F Rich, Bank 1)? Checked: Upstream O2 front: 15.7 ohm, Upstream O2 rear: 14.5 ohm, Downstream 11.55 ohm, after the cat.
Are not all transversely installed V6 engines hard to get to the back cover...? I only run 91 octane gasoline and I never have any problems with knocking. These engines come from the factory with 10.5 to 1 compression: using low octane fuel will destroy the engine eventually in my opinion.
I totally agree with the engine sludge. I am using Pennzoil Platinum now at 122K. There may be some truths to the knock sensors stories. I replaced the both knock sensors and the P0325 code is still there. I should have checked for the 5V reference voltage and do a voltage drop before replacing the knock sensors and the knock sensor harness. It was not fun to getting to them underneath the intake manifold and coolant hose. Changing the rear spark plugs was easier in comparison.
Oh dang. I always wondered where the knock sensors where. No wonder I couldn’t find them. That oil filter is a bitch to change when it’s stuck. Wouldn’t you agree? xD
