@@Rm00321 I guess everyone has their favorites. I have 2 Camrys. A 1997 with a 2.2L 5S-FE and a 2007 with a 3.5L 2GR-FE. The 2.2L has 365K miles and still runs like new. Has never left me stranded. Very easy and a pleasure to work on. Rarely do parts need replacement, and when it does need something, the parts are cheap, so my favorive is the 2.2 for now. I had to replace 3 ignition coils not long after I bought it new from the dealer. I also had to replace a rubber oil hose that failed and caused some oil loss. Luckily, I was driving it and not my wife because I was able to turn it off immediately and get it towed to dealer. I've had more problems with the 2007 than the 1997. I have no issues with the 2GR-FE. It's a great engine. Just some failing auxiliary parts.
@@Rm00321nope your wrong. The 1mz-fe is considered Toyotas most reliable v6 engine ever made. We’re not talking about 4 cylinder engines here and if that was the case the Honda k24 is the best 4 cylinder engine ever made period !
I had to have the wiring harness for the knock sensors replaced on that engine last year. I had them replace the coolant hose that sits between the block while it was open. It was risky considering there was no leak from the old one. They replaced the knock sensors as well since it was open.
This engine is in my fleet. Instead of using the recommended 3614 filter I use the 3600. Slightly longer by ¾ inch or so. Still far away enough from the manifold but gives you more to grab onto. Wear gloves and you'll be okay. You won't burn although beginners would. I feel your pain at the dealer service area. Another tech said very hostile environment. Overworked and under appreciated.
This happened to my Toyota Harrier 3.0lt, the initial indication was a leak in the thermostat housing and it has been repaired but the cooling water is still leaking. I'll follow what you're doing, it's a next terrible job.
I have an Avalon with 369k and no such leak exist as of yet. You still had to take plenum off to do a valve cover so not much harder to get to that hose anyway. Probably was harder since the van had the cowl in the way with the engine more tucked back
I'm currently doing this exact job on my '00 Camry, along with valve cover gaskets, plugs, wires, knock sensors, clutch master and slave cylinder, and a bunch of other shit. Oh and I'm pretty sure the input shaft bearing on the trans is bad lol. Anyway, this job is NOT for the faint of heart if you're an inexperienced DIYer, but it's doable, just take your time and do your research.
Going threw this now with a used 01 Avalon. I knew about the disappearing coolant when I bough the car for 800 bucks. I thought it could be a radiator or something simple. Well 6 months into bring back the car things have gotten terrible. First of no fault of the car I let it overheat NUMEROUS of times. Just stateing because I could have done the most damage already. Car is a tank btw. Well after car overheated one day because you have to watch the fluid every couple days it’s now in some type of limp mode. Codes say misfire in 2,4,6 and lean bank 2. No power over about 10-15 mph. I figured I toasted the plugs and coils so I replaced. Still no power. Starts and idles fine. I then started to throw more parts at it tring to figure out why car is running lean on entire bank. Also the exhaust manifold, the pipe right below it glows cherry red. So my thinking was because of fuel being dumped because of the misfire. But there is a LEAN BANK 2 code. When pulled the plugs they all were covered in carbon and sooty. Ordered a new air/fuel ratio sensor and new maf sensor. I been dumping coolant into this thing and assuming it’s been burning somewhere and after watching your video things are starting to make sense. That coolant has been sitting at in the valley and probably from all the dumping of coolant has made its way into the bank and fouled the entire bank. I even started using water because of being not able to buy coolant all the time I’m thinking to water has made its way in the motor as well and could be causing havoc. I’m sure the coolant was causing the misfires in return makes the car dump raw fuel and overflows in the pipe past the upstream air/fuel sensor. I keep driving the car with the limp mode and misfires. Before the limp mode thing happened it ran and drove fine just keep having to add coolant. Overheated one last time and now it’s stuck like this. Waiting on air/fuel sensor and maf to see if they could be playing a part as I could have toasted the sensor while overheating so many times in return sends wrong signal in returns dump fuel but wouldn’t I get “rich” codes? Why the pipe is cherry red but the codes are lean. I’m lost right now. I’m thinking some how I’m not getting enough fuel but the leak could be the cooperate setting everything in motion. Some help would be appreciated. Sorry for the rambling I been at this car for 2 days and nights.
Thanks for the video! I also have a sneaky coolant leak on a 3UR-FE. Coolant leaks from somewhere in the passenger side above the Bell housing, heat transfer, and transmission pan. It only leaks coolant if I fill the external reservoir. If the external coolant tank is empty, the leak does not occur. The coolant is not leaking from the radiator, the radiator also stays full. I can't see any hoses leaking. I got a shop to reseal the engine valley and I already replaced a head gasket. It still happens. No idea where this leak is coming from but it is driving me insane. My theory is that it is the freeze plugs or the pump is leaking under pressure and the fan is blowing the coolant backwards. Any advice is appreciated
Wait till he hears about oil leaks from the timing chain area on the 3.5. Valley plate took me several days in my driveway. 3.5 you have to pull the engine from the car.
#1. No doubt, this engine is a tough cookie to work on even in my 1999 Solara let alone a mini-van. But boy-is she sure a joy to drive. #2. The color of the coolant looks pretty ill. Maintenance likely not performed. Twenty-three years and 186k miles on my 1mzfe and I have no sign of coolant leaks. 😇 #3. Time is also a necessity along with patience to do this job or a rear valve-cover gasket replacement. #4. How many labor-hours did this job "flag"...????
That coolant hose should have been made out of metal that lasts the life of the engine ! I hope I never have to do this on my 2005 camry v6,I think I’d end up trading it in if it ever did this.
Might be a pain to work on but for the diyer at least most work can be done without needing to pull the engine. 3.5l anything with the timing cover or timing chain (including vvti cams) you have to drop the entire engine… yikes. I’d rather have the timing belt
great Video! Im hoping my car is leaking from here and not the head gasket. I have a leak that is hard to tell where it is coming from, coolant collects on the tranny by engine.
Good evening! Thanks for all your Toyota videos. Can you possibly shed some light on a ground cable for a 2003 Tacoma V6 3.4 4WD creb cab. Factory manual has *EB* located "near throttle body*. I've looked for this cable and it is definitely not there. Where does this need to go to and from? I'm also told the ground off the battery is supposed to go to the transmission but I'm not seeing any reference for this in the FSM. Thank you!
I definitely agree with you these engines are very hard to work on Peter but there are very Reliable I have this 1MZ FE engine in my 98 Toyota Camry. Knowing all this I would of definitely got the 4 Cylinder engine instead of the V6. But I had the car over 2 years and only had to replace 1 oxygen sencer and the front drivers side CV AXEL that I got the oem part from the dealer alittle more expensive but I know it's gonna last peter
I have the 1997 Camry with 2.2L and I love it. It's pleasure to work on. Plenty of room and a lot less parts that can fail. After watching this video, I'm glad I got the 2.2L, I'm going to be doing this job for a friend this coming weekend.
If I would of known that before I bought this car I wouldn't looked for a 4banger, but basically any Toyota that is kept well will last a very long time. Mine is a 98 and I could get in my car and drive to Florida right know. Try finding a Chevy or Ford that runs great at 25 years old
My Lexus Rx300 has this 1 mzfe engine too ! Silky smooth drivetrain but 19 mpg max. Gonna drop new radiator and hoses in soon . Slow radiator leak . Intermittent . Had pink crystals on upper corner of radiator but none now and no coolant level drop . Do you recommend pressure test always if radiator seems likely source? Thank u
I'm not Pete but it is a maintainable slow leak, why strain the system? Had a customer once who had a slow leak and the lower OEM clamp was rusted because it came from salted iced winter roads. Do the hoses first and see if the clamps still hold strong. Otherwise I wouldn't worry about it. Not to be held liable for my advice. It's your car and your decision. Most people do what they want anyway so I can only give advice.
It's going to pressurize when it's hot and running, so you might see it dripping while it's running. Pressure test is just to check if it's leaking or not
i have a solara with the 1mz 3.0. i change its bypass hose and change its water pump and its thermostat just this weekend i drove it for more than 4 hours and i was using my heater and turn on my a/c got back and on sunday morning i turn on my car and i could see antifreeze leak from underneath like if its coming from its manifold or back of engine what could it possibly be i think it could a hose or head gasket but i could be wrong
Does anybody know the because part number for the hose and is there any variation? I have an rx300 99 year that needs a knock sensor swap and harness so ill do the hose
Did you just use rtv to make a new gasket for the water inlet housing? I can't find any gasket or seals for it anywhere. I assume they want me to purchase a whole inlet housing that has a gasket installed already but I was hoping I could just use the proper rtv for the job. Any suggestions?
Hi Peter, I have a 2010 Corolla showing a P2196 Bank 1 Sensor 1 stuck rich.. I'm getting data from the sensor, and there is no symptom of the vehicle running rich, everything is fine on the car from what I can tell.. curious what could be causing the code, as I find it hard to believe it's the air:fuel sensor
Asking online without an in person inspection is asking for the wrong guess diagnosis and anyone saying they know for a fact is a chance of you wasting your money. They can drive the car or see if it stumbles or is hard starting. They can look for damage, etc.. That being said, when you hook it up to the Pico scope what does the graph show you on the heater circuit? So anything from the ECU to the sensor itself is bad. Ohm the sensor out to see if any heater operations are bad. If not, it could be anywhere back to the ECU. Next time say the 1.8 or 2.4 as well because that's important. Better to search and if find nothing to ask on a Toyota forum next time. Or search that code on RU-vid and see what you get. I know someone had made a video on that already. The sensor replacement is $77+tax&ship. Good luck.
@@LAactor thanks mate. As for the car stumbling, rough idle, it just isn't there. It's a 1.8L I'm not looking for a diagnosis, I'm looking at advice on where to go from where I currently am. So on history, owner had overfilled oil by 1.5-2qt (I have no idea why), so I changed the oil, filter.. changed air filter.. Cleared the codes, and took the car on a good hour long test drive to get it nice and hot. Have the live data, but I couldn't get the voltage on B1S1 at all, but saw temp data, couldn't get st fuel trim for B1S1 either, but could get all info from the downstream sensor. The sensor here, OEM, is $200 from an Aftermarket dealer (DENSO) or $400 from Toyota.. don't want to go that route yet. Don't have a scope, but need to OHM out the sensor... Hope not ECU.. Edit: Appreciate the reply and the direction.
After 25 years, I find out that my 1998 Camry V6 is a lemon. It's leaking coolant from the driver's side thermostat housing. Amusingly, just after I replaced the water pump that was leaking water from the passenger side. I wonder if Barr's Leak will stop the leak?
And what is your question or is it just a statement? How much leakage? Leaking as in seeing it on the driveway or needing top off? If you're on 5W-30 have you tried going to 10W-30 to slow it?
@@LAactor no, I meant front wheel drive not all wheel drives. In fact, I just bought a 2003 4wd 4Runner a couple of months ago to do off road stuff. Mileage is not the point with this car. I had many cars that had terrible mileage but it was for the power and abilities. My absolute worse mileage car was a 67 Mustang, modified, that got 7 mpg, but it was a blast to drive!
Yet Toyota cars are transverse as is many designs of today. It's the Manufacturer, not the design. Toyotas require less repairs if any. Don't let mechanics fool you into thinking that just to charge you more. American designed cars for sooner and break down more often so it's a moot point if you save money on one repair but have repair after repair and early vehicle replacement where the Toyota can last 2-3x longer or more. Make it make sense.
