Very expensive, as you say, but I'd do it, especially considering the overall condition of the truck. I think forming new lines manually would save quite a bit, and shouldn't be too hard, but that valve is the big headache. Plus they've got a real expert doing the work, so it'll be done correctly!
@@DogRedful This is literally the case with my accord that has a few problems. I wanna get a camry and i keep talking myself up to it but I always kinda go "im so familiar with this car i could probably fix anything wrong with it, might as well shell out a little more money and have it make me money for another year"
I had a little short box 2wd truck like this. It was a '90 and it was the last of the carbureted trucks for Toyota, I think, may be wrong. It was a great little truck though.
Great explanation and appreciate the careful description!! I blew a rusted out brake line on my 2002 Tracker and will simply by-pass the LSPV after seeing the complicated tubing bent into it. It is located in front of the RR wheel high up. Not to mention the valve itself is no longer available (The vehicle is Suzuki built with a Chevy nameplate on it). That 1991 truck has a micro-fraction of rust on it compared to my Midwest vehicle. 30 years in CA= little rust. What rust? That axle line would be a cinch to replace with copper-nickel line. The 1991 is well worth repairing unless it has other major problems...
Nice little truck that probably has a couple hundred thousand more miles in it. Worth the cost of repairs, especially if you can get parts at a scrap yard.
They are pretty old and even Toyotas eventually wear out. The cash for clunkers program in 2008-09 took a lot of older vehicles and sent them to premature scrap leaving many owners with no source for inexpensive used parts. Only in places like California will you find vehicles like this in NY they all rusted away years ago.
$600? I just replaced the load proportioning valve and L/H brake line for less than $100. Ever heard of eBay? Also the brake line and tool needed to bend the line including the screw ends, cost very little on eBay! The hard part is readjusting the Load Proportioning valve, thats a pain in the butt to be sure!
Just unscrew that prop valve and lever and throw them in the garbage, connect the rear brake line coming off the master cylinder to the brake line coming off the axle, and the brake line that goes to the proportioning valve that is teed into the front brakes on the driver side front wheel well is no longer needed, you remove and plug with 1/8 npt plug. Fixed and brakes better than oem less than 10$. Already did on both my trucks brakes better
How did this hold up. I’m thinking about doing it so I don’t have to buy a new valve for 200+ dollars. I read that it would cause lock up because I have discs in the front and drums in the rear
Had a similar part on my 1985 GMC pick up just by passed it, brakes worked better without the valve. Truck looks great underneath compared to what you would find in New England, most 90's Toyotas have gone to rust heaven. Locally we bend our own brake lines very easy, do it almost every week, have plenty of rusted out brake lines come in.
sense something that's not these anymore?trying to make adjustments for load weights?..the electric part of the part.how do you bypass that?.thanks.Curious.IF you bypass the valve,does the truck have a sensor that's trying to sence
Hi. I'm dealing with no brake force to stop minimun impulse advance on 1st gear. Master Cylinder and LSPV are new, but the problem remains. I really need and upgrade here.😵 Thanks
Not for this part. Anything you will find in the junkyard will be just as bad, and it's a matter of time before it fails in the same way. In my area, Toyota trucks get stripped really fast. My valve had the same issue, and I ended up putting on an aftermarket one, and got the other parts from Ebay, but I really still don't like how it stops. I may end up putting a manual one on, or re-doing it with the OEM one.
Can lowering a truck by 3 inches with lowering blocks cause the proportioning valve to send more brake to the rear thereby mimicking proportional valve failure?
@@kaitlyngremore170 yes I did. It in fact did cause the rear brakes to bite long before the front. I flipped upside down the arm that ties the proportioning valve lever to the differential and it fixed the problem completely.
After 180k miles , 300k km , 15 years can consider new break system, new cooling system for safely reason , after 20 years old many parts keep failing , can consider selling it
