Toyota Oil Canister Tutorial 

Dealer sells it for 5.50.

@@KossRentyuk Some Amazon " Toyota : oil filters are counterfeit and not that Toyota filters are sturdy but these fakes fall apart. Besides the ones at the Dealership don't cost much more than the ones from 'Fram, etc.

I agree

Environmental reason in 2009 switched back to cannier 2019?

I really don’t understand why everyone doesn’t like these designs. I didn’t particularly like it at first but I have had no issues with it once I learned how to do it. I do my own oil changes so I’ve never had the issue with it being on too tight. That’s what you get for having other people do your oil changes for you. Considering the fact that there’s no metal going into landfills I have to think this is is much more environmentally sound than the old all in one filters. What’s the major beef with this design?

@@condor5635 I also don't understand why people complain these filters, some people just have to complain I guess. I did my first one and thought it worked well. I put a length of hose on the nipple to direct the oil to the drain pan. I found this design less messy than the spin on filters. If people prefer to make a bigger mess and not mess with the small O ring, they can just remove the whole thing and replace the filter without removing the plug. That's how most dealers do it because it's faster.

@@condor5635 My issue is that you are required to purchase a special tool to be able to do this, I would have no problem with the design if they just made it where you could put a 1" socket on the end to screw the cap off, I am a volvo penta marine mechanic and they use a similar design but no special tool required, just a 1" socket or adjustable wrench

@@tjsoutherbassin - You had to get special tools for the old design all in one filters as well - I’ve got two or three in my tool chest That I can throw away now because none of my cars take them anymore. How is that any different than this? I agree it would’ve been nice to have a universal socket head on there kind of like Fram did on some of their all-in-one filters I believe

I snugged the canister, then half a turn, figured that was good., how about you?

Yeah I would never take mine in to get changed because most places will over tighten the filter on this

I cant get mine off. Used 3ft of leverage and started to hear a cracking so I stopped. Replacing with a metal aftermarket one with a purchased oil change for next time.

Replace the plastic pos housing with a metal one.

Mine has the metal housing so the only o ring I have to replace is around the outside of the filter. Nothing to drain it though so there's always a mess 😅

Even the expert ytube mechanics don’t change the small o ring??

Good idea about the hose attachment. I like that

A 5/8" ID hose fits perfectly over the outside of the filter drain tube, and makes draining easy and clean. :👍

This is how it’s supposed to be done per Toyotas tech manual. So you thought right.

Yeah, the gasket seems to swell up once it's been on there for a while and makes it VERY difficult to loosen the canister later.

The dealership did the "free" oil changes on my tundra at 10k and 20k as set by their schedule. Then at 25k they notified to come in for a paid oil change. I decided to do it myself. I used my legs like a weight lifter's jerk and the canister would not budge. Even after tapping, wd40 and 2 hrs of trying. By the look of things I don't think the dealership ever removed the skid plate or the oil filter. I hired a trust worthy mechanic who has a big ass 30" torque wrench and he finally got it to turn. I wont be going back to that dealership.

@@yellostallion I had the first 8 oil changes done by the dealership because they were included. The last 3 or 4 I paid them to do. I looked carefully at the invoice on the last oil change because it cost almost double what it did before and noticed a charge of $40 for an Oil Filter Assembly" so I looked at the previous paid oil change bills and noticed that one other time they charged for the same thing. I'm glad that the change I just did myself. I could loosen the filter housing easily but I tried loosening it before doing any other oil draining because it is easy to crack the housing if you have to apply too much torque to get a seized one off.

That Motivx wrench has been updated with a new improved version. There are no slots in the new one but it is more precisely made at 64.3 mm. It fits snugly on all Toyota cartridge style oil filter caps gripping each of the fourteen flutes and will even work on some spin-on filters. I used mine for the first time this morning. This one will absolutely not crack the ears on the plastic oil filter caps and provides superior grip by gripping all 14 flutes. The only thing I wish they did is make the top so that it would take the same 27 mm socket but no, the new one takes a 24 mm socket.

@@masterofnone1808 interesting that they changed the design. I wonder if it is because people were breaking the ears off their canisters?

@@MrMikey1273 Yes that was at least part of the problem. I think the ears were taking all the load and the flutes weren't engaging at all most if the time. When I questioned Motivx about why they redesigned their wrench, the following was their reply... "Here's the differences between the newer and older versions: The first is that the square 3/8" drive opening of the old design tended to deform and potentially strip out over time, especially with overtightened oil filter caps. This is because it is a one piece design made entirely from 6061 Aluminum. Our new design uses two types of aluminum, 6061 for the body (the grey part) and 7075 for the drive hub (the red part). 7075 aluminum, which is typically used in the aircraft industry and has properties similar to steel, will not yield (deform) when the ratchet is rotated even with the tightest oil filter caps completely eliminating this issue. The second is that our new design is manufactured using precision CNC machining as opposed to forging (or casting like most others). While casting or forging is less expensive to produce, the tolerance is much larger causing the need for the wrenches to be oversized. This creates a loose fit which can cause rounding of the cap. To combat this, the tabs below the fluted portion of the cap are used to help prevent the wrench from over-rotating and rounding. The downside to this is that sometimes those tabs can break off and cause an oil leak which we have seen many times. With our new design combine with CNC machining, we can maintain the size of the wrench to .001" or better which is a MUCH tighter tolerance than casting or forging. We have sized them to account for thermal expansion of the cap (which is significant) and they have an ideal fit when the engine is still warm. They will be slightly loose when used on a cold engine but not enough to slip as we have tested this extensively. Lastly, because there is a difference in the lower portion of the oil filter caps the older version of the tool would only work on the 2.0L - 5.7L engines. The new version also works for the 1.8L cartridge style as well as the two smaller Toyota spin-on style oil filters. The new version is also made in the USA whereas the older one was made in Taiwan however we were able to keep the price the same. -MotivXSupport"

No...don't anyone use a strap wrench on these. Buy the proper tool.

@@Methodical2 Did someone say they were using a strap wrench...?

Only problem with that is you have no leverage to get the metal ring off and I'd rather not put any undue stress on the plastic housing. Basically, I take the metal ring off while on the car; it's much easier. You can then remove the plastic housing if you choose too.

thanks. Performed my first Toyota oil change yesterday. Tightened the cannister all the way (to a stop) by hand. However, was not able to budge it any tighter, with the filter wrench & socket combination. I'm hoping it's sufficiently secure, and wouldn't want to sabotage an engine with only 25k miles due to massive oil loss. Do you think I'm ok?

mary sayre, makes you wonder why Toyota doesn’t use the cast aluminum housing as OEM equipment? For the volumes of vehicles they put the cartridge in, I would pay an extra $15 for a durable part. Maybe that’s just me. 🤷🏻‍♂️

I believe some Lexus come with an aluminum one. If you go to a Toyota dealer and hit the parts guy up they will square you away. Be away if you don’t use a torque wrench it even easier to oven tighten it.

Too bad we can’t replace it with a normal spin on filter and forget the whole thing

Over torque and no oil on the O ring

Yep

Tell me about it!! Changed oil in my Toyota Avensis recently here in Cork,Ireland. Was driving down the motorway afterwards and the low engine oil light came on! I had fitted one of the o rings wrongly on the filter. Then it happened a second time. I had wrongly fitted the second O ring as well. No instructions came with the oil filter,so what do ya expect. Crazy system from Toyota.

the oil filter has a fkn drain plug!!!??? why ???

@@geraldwalsh6489 i didnt know there is a low oil pressure warning light.

I have a 2022 Camry TRD and I love my car but to hell with this filter design

Even better, buy a screw in drainer with a hose attached

@rk22cc something that can handle about 80+ psi, sounds good to me

@@JonEhBee ??

Ecology....you just change the paper part of the filter.

The engineer that did that should be sh@t

Yes, they are O-rings, not gaskets! Gaskets are flat. O-rings are not flat. Terminology matters. OP could also clean the parts up before putting things back together.

Thanks

That’s what I was thinking. What’s the benefit of taking that off and using the plastic drainer thing? You just dump it out anyways when you unscrew it right?

You can skip that step but since you have the new gasket, why risking the engine ? I know the design of that filter is crazy, typically on Toyota making harder for DIY's

True. I just unscrew the whole thing, even though it is very messy. Clean it up and on to the next.

The new o-ring comes with the new filter, not much point not using it…unless you’re doing it for time.

oil doesn't matter. oil comes from oil pickup in pan not the filter. When you fill crankcase with oil it goes to pan where its picked up. always hear this crock over and over. simply no reason to do it unless it makes you feel better

They are trying to be environmentally friendly with less waste per oil change. No throw-away oil filter canister. Their PR department doesn’t have to work on these, however.

They do. Not all models have the cartridge filter.

I like the design.

I haaaaate this cartridge filter crap. Is it really that hard to put some threads on the casting so you can screw an oil filter on?

@@PDPIE1029 I went in knowing in advance about the cartridge filter on my 4Runner. It's a pain in the ass to work around. But indeed, it defies all logic why they continue to use the cartridge system over standard filters. The upside is the 1GR-FE 4 liter engine can almost outlast Methuselah. That's a strong hard charging engine to run off such thin oil.

Just do your own oil changes and never torque the oil filter cap to more than 18 ft.lbs.

Yeah, and is this a V6 or 4?

Yes

Just take the whole thing off. Messy but works, and you can take the bottom screw off using two tools. One to hold the canister and the other to open the screw.

Bro, they tightened mine on so much, i ended up accidentally breaking one of the little plastic fins on the cannister. I thought it was minimal enough to keep using....long story short, I had to buy a replacment. I got the metal one instead.

No and Toyota type filter cartridge for many of the Toyota motors !

Same problem here. I'm doing the oil changes now.

18 ft.lbs. (almost half as tight as the drainplug in the oil pan).

You do know that a spin-on filter is also called a canister filter?

That happens to me all the time. It's a lousy design. I just have the pan ready and take it off later to swap the O-ring.

just gently put in vise and get it off then retorque with new gasket to 9 ft-lb only

Same for me

@@diegomeza2943 , I never figured out how to separate the screw, so I've just ignored it.

Dang. Well I'm glad you are smart enough to check under the engine after a filter change. You would be surprised how many people call it good and start driving. Well done sir. Without Struggle there is no progress

@@GEARMOAUTO ya thanks. I checked immediatley when i turned the key. I acutally didnt even have to add oil i was so quick. Anyway, thanks for the video...and yes....no struggle, no progress.

*_"What is the point of this canister design?!"_* I'll give you 3 guesses...lol

Technically the filter cartridge should cost less that the typical spin-on filter...since you're not buying the metal housing. The more I look at it, the more i think this cartridge/canister system is the way to go. Normally I use a metal spike to punch a small hole in my spin-on filters to allow it to drain while still on the vehicle. Nonetheless, due to the anti-drain valve you still get oil spillage as soon as the filter is spun loose. With this no more using a hammer and spike to drain the filter housing...plus I can still pre-fill my new filter with new oil by re-installing the bottom plate cap first, then insert the new filter, pre-fill, and install.