15:00-15:16: "Don't give up though..." -- I don't know who needs to hear this but this is the best advice you could get at a basic level. I can't tell you how many times I wanted to give up working on cars with rusted parts, rounded bolt heads and stuck brake drums. I forced myself to continue and I'm a better mechanic because of it. If you're new to turning a wrench (and I still consider myself very new) it's important to persevere. Be smart but intentional about troubleshooting difficult problems. Too many RU-vid videos out there mislead people into thinking everything just comes apart and back together without struggle. In my experience, there is ALWAYS struggle. Even outside the rust belt. I love this channel!
I replaced my engine/trans mounts on my 2005 Camry at 100,000 miles/17 years. The result was no more steering wheel vibration at 60 mph+ highway driving. I went OEM on all mounts.
I agree with you last time I replaced was on a 15 year Corolla with 130k miles on it. Let me say it wasn’t fun and I was 5 years younger 😂I think I’ll let the next to the young guys even if it cost more. You have to pick your fights and this one I’ll pay for sure
This is real time, mechanic struggle/grind. Ive watch plenty of mechanic/how-to videos and they typically fast forward or skip the full demonstration of the most difficult part. Appreciate this in-depth video. 😊
I'm so glad he included the struggle of removing the old front engine mount. Most videos stop at this point and begin again when the mount is already in
This is why engineers should be required to service and fix their own creation once or twice a year, then they will learn what a “masterpiece” they have created.
Competent engineers design bullshit because management tells them to. Either way it's management because an incompetent engineer also falls under their purview. The 3.5 is a large engine. You need a shoehorn and vaseline to get one in a Camry.
It’s the bean counter execs that have the final say to ridiculous design direction, it’s universal to most fields involving design. Engineers, architects, and artists are all at the mercy of the bean counters and their anti-consumer practices.
I just booked an appointment with the Car Care Nut on December 21 to fix my back windshield shade on my Toyota Avalon. I’m excited and hope I don’t get star struck. 😂
Just tell him your blind and keep your eyes closed, this will help greatly with staying calm. This trick also works when getting pulled over, if the cop says "Are you seriously driving?", Follow up with "Yes!!, I just hope for the best". I guarantee 100% of the time... That will definitely not work. Happy Driving...Stevie Wonder 😬😁.
You will be surprised at the friendliness of Ahmed himself, Mrs CCN and everyone else at TCCN Automotive. Although I live 60 miles away I have already been there a few times and they will be my regular spot for most work.
I’m sure a number of people have already mentioned it but there is no substitute for OEM engine mounts. I changed the front engine mount and torque strut on my 2010 Camry using aftermarket mounts and was back to square one a year later. Yeah, the Toyota mounts cost more but they are still going strong 100,000miles later.
This is true. Plus all the scam places always try to do it knowing it's an easy money maker every time. This is why you always avoid quick lube places. They'll charge you $100 for an annual aftermarket dog one but you can get a $120 from the dealer and do it yourself and never again deal with it
You know f 3:09 or sure that the Toyota parts are exactly the right size which can be critical in some cases. Like most things the old saying " you get ehat you pay for " applies. I'm doing my front brakes and rotors. The Toyota parts are not much more than the few top quality aftermarket parts but I know that they will fit right and how long they will last. I have a Highlander I don't need semi metallic pads and drilled and slotted rotors.
AMAZING: My 2008 Camry had a weird vibration and TCCN replaced ALL with OEM mounts. Drives beautifully, purrs. I called this job "Cracker Jack" since there apparently were suprises inside. ADM is a superior perfectionist, drills down to find the root cause & resolve. It was an honor for TCCN to do this job, can't wait till he inspects my 2007 Highlander !!! BRAVO, how does the world clone your morality & ethics !!!
I had to disconnect those exact motor mounts to replace a bent lower control arm. They were rusty after 14 years but still intact. Thanks for showing how to replace all of them. So appreciated!
I have a 91 vzn130 4runner with 467,000 k's and still runs like a dream. It also has the original engine mounts which are still fine. I can still balance a 50 cent coin on edge on the motor while it's idling. Love my Toyotas. Regular service is the key.
I guess I'm just weird. As you were removing the covers on that lexus, with each cover that came off, the better I liked it. I took the cover off of my Avalon as soon as I bought it, that was 15 years ago. I like the look of the engine, and I like to hear the engine sounds. Especially when I'm leaning on the gas pedal. That engine sound is like angels singing to me.
Hi AMD, i bought aftermarket made in Japan motor mounts for my 1997 corolla (car is too old so aftermarket makes sense) for 105 dollars. its been 6 months so far and its doing great.
So I just finished this job on a 2003 Highlander Limited V6. The 2003 Highlander Limited does have a rear mount that needs to also be unbolted in order to get enough engine lift to replace the passenger side mount. Thanks Amd for this video.
what you just described about the motor mounts on a corolla, is EXACTLY what i am going through... once i have money in the bank, im having the shop replace all of them, i had just the two replaced a year or so ago, and been struggling with vibrations since
Having to rebuild the front end on my 14 Sienna with 190k miles. Since I am replacing the lower control arms, I am debating replacing motor mounts while I am already in there. Great video.
Instead of plugging hoses with a bolt to prevent dripping, try a golf tee. The taper allows you to give a little push and usually holds without any clamp.
@@RoySki007 *Indeed true. The ones I know golf regularly and have done so for decades. Golf instills thought, planning, patience, focus and concentration. Just depends upon where you work and who you work for. Cheers!*
I love this guy. I found my 2008 solara had all these mounts go bad. Even if I dont do the job myself now i know about it and I can ask the right questions. Will replace and update on how my car drives.
I have a 33 year old Toyota Land Cruiser, 200'000 miles, maybe I should change mine! To be honest I have only owned it for 12 years so they may have been done before. I have done the transmission mount. 100% agree with the quality of Toyota mounts, really well made. The quality of rubber has huge variations.
I just replaced my motor mounts on my 1999 V6 Camry at 304k miles. It does have a rear mount which is a royal pain to replace. Cutting the rear bracket on the rear mount in two was essential. Now car drives like new and pulls like a mule!
That customer will really appreciate the job u did. It'll feel like a new car! Now, dumb question: Where do u u buy your clips from? Toyota? How many different sizes? Can we buy bags of them? I see they do on Amazon but never coŕrect. Thanks!👍
I am so happy I found this channel. It is a great pleasure to watch, I don't even know how many videos I have already binge-watched :) Thanks for all the great informative content and a pleasant presentation. I wish you all the best.
You’re certainly have earned your Toyota strips as a master mechanic. As someone who works on his own 1998 Toyota Camry V6 with a manual E153 transmission purchased brand new, I’m looking for the lowest on-line cost provider with Toyota OEM parts, may I ask what’s your domestic Toyota parts source? I would love to set up a wholesale account with them. TJM Palm Beach Gardens FL
2023 TACOMA Engine Mount - Hi there. My first ever Toyota! I purchased a brand new ‘23 Tacoma last February and with less than 3,500 miles I had to replace the driver side engine mount after hunting down an increasingly loud squeak/creak. After replacement the truck was back to new! However, I should’ve had the dealership replace them as a set because less than 2 ,500 miles later the passenger side became a squeaking/creaking issue. The dealership agreed that the issue was the already worn and cracked passenger side engine mount. Again, the replaced mount totally stopped the issue. I asked the service writer if there was any sort of service bulletin or an updated part number for the replacement mount. “No” on both questions. On the paperwork from the dealership I noticed that the tech replaced the passenger side mount but noted a noisy driver’s side mount and now that the passenger side has been quieter down I DEFINITELY hear the beginning of the same increasingly loud squeak/creak from the driver’s side. What’s going on with the Toyota engine mounts?!
I sell thousands of aftermarket motor mounts every month. I’ve been doing it for 7 years. I use them in my car too. Here’s what I’ve learned: ALL VEHICLES ARE DIFFERENT, but the general lifespan is about 6 years. Some people get 2, others get 10. A few get much more out of the less important mounts. My 97 Honda Civic still has the original rear engine mount and transmission mount, and they are still in good shape. The others need replacement after approximately 5 years. OEM is *almost* always the best you can get, but depending on the vehicle brand, you could pay dearly for them. For many DIYers, OEM may not be worth the cost IF the job is easy. If you take your car to the mechanic and pay for labor, the only way I’d recommend aftermarket is if the shop buys the mount on their account and guarantees the work. Let the mechanic deal with the warranty. Their suppliers can get the parts faster, and labor is covered. Sometimes aftermarket is the better deal, but make sure to factor in labor costs! OEM lasts longer than aftermarket. Nothing wrong with aftermarket , but it depends on how much you’re willing to spend and how easy or hard the job is because you probably will change it sooner. In Mitsubishi’s case, we’ve had people with 2 year old vehicles with ALL broken OEM mounts already and it became a normal occurrence. In that case, just buy aftermarket 😂. OEM Toyota/Lexus mounts are good quality. We rarely have complaints about excessive vibration from any engine bigger than a 4 cylinder. V6 and V8 engines are just naturally smoother. You can get away with replacing 1 mount, as long as you didn’t drive your car for years (which most people do anyways) with the bad mount. This ruins the other mounts. Almost every car will wear out the main engine mount first, which is closest to the timing cover. For Toyota/Lexus and Honda/Acura, the front mount. The mount in this location usually bears most of the weight and torque, hence why it wears faster. Your driving style MATTERS. Flooring it from a stoplight (obviously) puts a lot of stress on your mounts. If oil is leaking directly onto your mounts, they absolutely will not last very long at all. Fix the leak. If you are tightening a bolt that is embedded into the rubber, don’t drive it down with damn impact! If you stretch or twist the rubber while tightening the bolt, the mount will stiffen up and cause vibration issues. If you drive a luxury car, I would also think twice about aftermarket mounts. If you are picky/particular about your ride, just spend the money and get OEM. Electric cars have drive unit (motor) mounts too. Not sure of how often they need to be replaced(don’t have much experience with them yet), but they do fail.
I have Question, i have 2010 corolla and the mounts wear Quickly , i replaced passenger engine mounts twice and the Gearbox mount also failed , Does bad roads have any thing to do with mounts? Because i live in a country with very dumpy roads .
@@MohammedJobori Rough roads on a transversely mounted engine in the Corolla can definitely affect the lifespan of the engine mounts.. Gearbox mount for a 2010 Corolla is common. I get orders for just that mount quite often.....much more often than gearbox mounts for other makes/models, so that's normal for that specific car. The passenger's side mount is the main mount, and it normally wears faster than the other mounts, however you should get at least 5 years of use without issue.
I love the fact that you fixed his clips. Most mechanics lose the clips and don't replace them. Do you know the part number for the clips in the engine bay on a 2015 gs350. I need some because their missing.
See how you go the extra mile to put the covers back on properly? Most mechanics would put a screw, a zip tie, or whatever will hold it? That’s why you’re an amazing mechanic AMD👍
I am amazed by your honesty, professionalism and caring about your fellow man. Most mechanics I know would have charged the full book time for the total procedure while still doing the more efficient method.
Nice to see the honest struggles and trics / mentality explained through the job! Thanks! I'm just starting to learn and did small fixes like rotors and water pump + pipes on my LR4. It's very educative to see you work even if I don't hown a Toyota. Keep it up and Cheers!
the timing of this video is amazing for me. I ordered all my mounts for my 2011 Avalon a few weeks ago and havent had time to replace them. changed the dogbone this last weekend
Just replaced the mounts on my 2013 ES350. Bought all 4 from a Lexus dealership in Florida for 550. Didit myself in the garage. Instead of lowering the subframe I removed the upper radiator support and fan shroud, didn't take too long, didnt have to remove the radiator. The new front mount came with a new solenoid and new vacuum lines and clips already in place, so I didnt have to fiddle with the old one.
As of today, 12.6.2023, I replaced my mother’s 2009 Highlander all struts and everything else(OEM parts )except the springs. I was very surprised that some of the parts were still good after 15 years in the car.
Thankyou for posting. I recently replaced the clutch in my 1.3 Echo and wondered if I should be replacing the engine mounts too at 190,000km. I think they have some life left in them but its quite a job to get to them, particularly the rear, which requires removal of the front suspension sub assembly.
As always very informative video. I liked the tour of the shop with various problems of different cars. You mentioned making new brake lines. Perhaps that's a good future video you can make on making new brake lines.
Thank you for the great video. Very detailed, great video quality and you have a calming way of presenting the information. I have a 2003 Camry with 76K miles (I'm the original owner). I just noticed the bushing on the torque strut is partially cracked. When I put it in gear, I do see some rocking. So I plan on replacing that. My question is, what is the likelihood that the other mounts are bad since it's a low-mileage car and has been driven responsibly? Other than removing the other mounts and wagging the top bolt around, how else can I determine if they are bad (e.g. install a new strut and see how the difference in how the engine responds, etc.). Thanks again for the A - grade video.
Watching RU-vid videos about cars can sometimes save you lots of money. I saw several about changing motor mounts on mercedes E320, v6s. Most said you need this special handy-dandy tool they happened to be selling for 99.99 in order to change the left mount from the front. I happened to see one video where the guy unhooked the exhaust pipe from the manifold, and it gave easy access to the top bolt with a regular wrench from the backside. When I had to have mine done, I told the mechanic about that, and he had it done in just a few minutes. You saved that customer a lot of money not doing this by the book even though it was a little difficult getting that mount out your way. I don't have a car right now, but when I am in a position to buy another one, I will try to get a Lexus even though I really liked my Mercedes. To bad I'm so far away from you.😢 I'm in Vegas. 😊😊😊 I forgot to ask. Are those oil filled mounts or solid rubber? 🤔
Yeah, the motor mounts I paid $70 for set of 5 or 6 on my 2002 Honda Odyssey were not as good as OEM, more vibration, but better than the worn out OEM and lasted over 100,000 miles. But now my engine is jumping again like it did with OEM. Considering I have cam noise, rusty body, leaking cooling system, surging idle, worn tires, death airbags (don't trust it the hour drive to dealer), 285,000 miles on it with original driveline, I just bought another $70 set to get me by, but I'd go OEM with a good car.
Thank you so much for making this video. I followed your advice on this one and ordered all of the mounts for my Yaris (OEM.) It's making a scary clunking sound and vibrating because I was an idiot and did not dismantle everything above the driver's side (left) mount and unfasten it before jacking up the engine/trans and replacing the control arms. You live and you learn I suppose! 😂 Hopefully the parts will arrive next week and also hopefully nothing else becomes damaged in the mean time. 😬
The issue is, as cars get older, it doesn't make much financial sense for manufacturers to keep making original parts. So, it gets harder to find OEM stuff, right? This means you're kinda stuck looking for aftermarket parts or maybe swapping in some refurbished ones. Though, it's funny, some collector's parts are way easier to find than others. By the way, your show is very informative and I love your channel. Please keep doing what you do!!!!!
My 2007 FJ is 18 years old next month with 194,000 miles of daily driving. When would you recommend changing the mounts? Thank you and as always, great videos!😎
Thank you AMD another great video. What happened to Jose recording you, seems you were tripoding the majority of the video till the end, lol. Fantastic info and great detailed.
I replaced mine on my 2008 lexus RX350 after 200k miles, The obvious results was better MPG from 18 to 22.5 and smoother accelerating with less kickdowns. FYI my front engine mount is an active mount with connector and vaccum hose and was around 250$.
Wow so much appreciated video I have the same car 09 and I feel smooth vibration but in the steering wheel and when I turn the steering wheel right or left is like better the vibration go any suggestions thanks for the video
Really like your videos, turned a bolt or two in my younger days. I'm in the market for a car myself, and what you do is a real help. There is one thing that puzzles me, why are there so many 4-door cars? I've been looking at the Toyota Celicas and Solaras and it's hard to find one with the manual stickshift, the best auto theft deterrent for the age we live in now. Have a good one dude.
I have the engine mounts ready to install in my 2013 Scion XB. wish you did that style mounts, but i am glad you talked about it. my car shakes soo bad at 123,000 miles.
Great video , very informative , i have two of these ES 350s , one is same color Matador Red and another one is Black . Thank you for sharing your experience .
Great video..thanks. While I appreciate the detail in fixing all the plastic tabs/push pins, why wouldn’t you clean up those rusty subframe bolts and apply some fluid film or anti-seize when reinstalling these major components?
I replaced all the mounts in my lexus rx400h because it had 200k miles. My after-market mounts are garbage compared to my old lexus mounts with 200k. So don't do my mistake.
I would jack the engine and transmission up by the flat spot on the bell housing next to the exhaust instead of the transmission pan. You can risk crushing the pan. That is what the manual states.
Tremendous video. I appreciate the cautions thqt you stress, including using OEM parts despite that I may have to win the lottery to afford them when our RAV 4 will need them replaced. Thank you.
I did mine last fall. That passenger side mount was way harder to get out on mine. 2005 lexus rx330. I had to cut it off with a saw zaw, it was seized and wouldn't budge.
Very good afternoon, I want to thank you for making this kind of videos. I know you are a Toyota expert and I have a problem with my 2012 Toyota PRIUS, antifreeze is getting into cylinder number two. I already have the vehicle parked and I do not want to damage it further and my question is to you as an expert and since I have watched your videos how you explain things, I would like to ask you please for advice on the vehicle, I like the vehicle and I want to repair it, which would be the best option to rebuild the engine or just buy the new block from the agency, as I have seen in your Videos and I appreciate your honest response. Thank you in advance and may you and your family be very well.😊😊😊😊
Yep, Toyota OEM parts for most things. I did all four mounts in my old Corolla and my wife's as well. Mine is a manual and by all means I used the VIN and got them from my dealer. This was important for hers too as she has the 2.4L XRS. Two of the old mounts were still good and two were shot. Replacing all four seemed wise for exactly the reasons this master mechanic said. I did buy a Denso radiator because the dealer couldn't get an OEM part for my 20 year old car. It looks nearly identical to the original which was also made by Denso. We'll see if it goes 20 years like the original.
I own a Matrix with the 2.4L 122K the steering wheel has a decent amount of vibration when the car is in gear. Thinking of doing the mounts, how much better was the smoothness with the new mounts?
@@zerocool5395 Vibration was one of the big reasons I did this job. Her car would vibrate badly at idle when in gear and stopped. Huge improvement. Two of the mounts were completely shot & the other two seemed fine but all four is the way to go.
I unfortunately definitely agree with using OEM mounts. The same applies to Honda and Hyundai, from my experience. The aftermarket mounts are just not quite manufactured to spec and cause problems more often than not. You may be able to get away with using one or two aftermarket, but especially any hydraulically controlled ones for vibration dampening during idle, they need to be OEM.
Awesome video as always.. thank you for this info. Questiob do you have a video when to replace wheel bearing on toyota 4runner 5th gen? Thank you so much!
Thank you AMD u r amazing Iam learning alot from you I wish you remake Viedo from your home garage now quality is much better just how to do stuff I know there’s a lot people who are advanced but I bet there’s more new guys here so plz try to redo those Viedo on how to change transmission fluid for example for how to probably service and change fluids and all that now your Viedo quality is top I appreciate your hard work thank you
Thank you for this video currently. I am burning one quart of oil every 5000 miles.. I have a hundred thousand miles the toyota camry Hybrid 2012 How long do you think the car will last Roughly putting on five thousand miles a year.?
Hello AMD, As always enjoy your presentation, count my good fortune as a Toyota Hilux owner. I never tire of the great service it renders and rugged build, Yes it will likely outlast me as I'm 74 and it being a 2016 with 79,500 km on the odometer. I only wish I'd bought on 20 yrs ago. My comment today is the plastic covers/shields underneath Toyotas/most all European stuff. Do you think this crap is necessary? No my Hilux is not encumbered by such, thank goodness. Again thanks for the always great presentation. God bless and keep you. LWC
not necessary, and causes more road noise when you drive over a road with debris or little rocks all over it due to them flicking around and hitting the plastic covers, however it does prevent rust a bit and improves the aerodynamics a bit.
Splash shield protects the engine from the debris and water, may help with aerodynamics. Covers and shields in general, depending on their purpose may help with water, impact or aerodynamics. Can be inconvenient but in the long run, its much better than a cel due to a corroded connector, scraped then rusted frame or broken oil pan.
Awesome video. Can you make a video of the other style motor mounts? I have a 2004 RAV4 which needs new mounts, and your instructions would be valuable.!!
My Tacoma has 140 k and had a clunk since day one….the pass side is very hard to see…but might have a crack…but I do not know if it has sagged or failed….I’m on w coast…no rust….
