You need some constant-tension screw clamps for those silicone hoses. Murray or Gates both make quality clamps and also t-bolt tension clamps. Not the standard, cheap worm-drive clamps that every parts house has in their bins. Anyway, awesome work. Looks incredible!
Thanks man! Yeah I tried Mikalor W5 clamps there - which are real high quality like what you're talking about - and still had leaks. I was gonna try constant tension w/ the springs but had these handy so I threw them on. Now I see why people weld on -12 or 16 AN fittings lol :-)
@@ray5961 I've had great luck with those constant tension clamps with the inner sleeve so you don't cut into the hose. You can make them nice and tight without any damage. My old (ancient) rubber hoses are feeling nice and squishy so I may order LCE's silicone hose kit. It includes some decent looking clamps, we'll see if I can get it sealed up! If you decide to take the EGR system off, throw a 10000k resistor into the female-end of the temp sensor connector to fool the computer into thinking the EGR system is in-range and you won't have a Check Engine light. I've been without the PAIR system and EGR for over 100,000 miles and haven't had any issues. Now to relocate that fuel filter.....
@@CubNole Thanks for the info! I have the EGR stuff on there, but it's disabled. I had very bad luck with silicon hoses. They leaked and when I pulled them off, they had started to display cracks. I ended up taking them off and throwing them away. I ended up ordering OEM Toyota rubber ones. Trail Gear sells a full set; their small hoses are nice, but the 3 large ones weren't really all that thick (those 3 are the ones I finally broke down and ordered from Toyota). Check out clamps from Mikalor - they make really nice stuff.
I did some research before selecting this one. Is there any difference with the red one that makes it better than the one I'm currently using? I don't remember all the specifics, but I believe this one had all the chemicals I wanted and I seem to remember reading something about the trade offs between a couple of the different types. But I'd love to know more about the red one you are using there. Thanks!
@@glenngamboa9224 ok will do. I'll go back over my research tonight or tomorrow and also called Zerex - I'll follow up and let you know what I find out. When I did the initial research on the coolant, this was the one that I settled on after reading a lot of information. Let me do a bit more research and see if I can find out what the difference between this one and the red one is and then I'll follow up here with a reply to our thread. I seem to remember it came down to several options. Maybe I can find the link I read which was real helpful also. I'll see what I can find in my records.
Took me about 4 years to build my truck to how I wanted it. As far as the motor stuff and all that.. not sure, maybe 9 months or so. It's been a long never ending project lol. I had to rebuild the motor twice.
Hey Charles - yes it was haha. I have the two volume set, plus the wiring schematic one. They are indispensable when it comes to keeping up the truck and upgrading it, etc. You can generally find them for sale on ebay for a couple hundred dollars. I think I paid around $100 or $150 for mine, because they were a little rough around the edges.
Not all that much. It pulls a bit harder and runs smoother, but I still have to be careful if a Prius pulls up next to me and wants to race. Stock HP is around 116 and I figure with my exhaust and mods, maybe I'm making around 135 or so.
I use Motul extensively on the Ferrari, the truck, motorcycles, etc. Sometimes Mobil 1 or Lucas products. Never tried Amsoil. Your Ti studs are going out tomorrow, by the way :-) I'll pack them up in the morning.
I think I have some around some place. I'm in the process of packing and moving, so not totally sure where they are. I'll be producing some more next year though. The primary benefit is that Titanium stands up to heat cycling better than steel and it won't rust. Also, when mixed with stainless, you help eliminate the possibility of micro welding / galling of the threads (which can occur when using all stainless). I've found it to be an ideal alloy for use in exhaust system, along with perhaps Inconel
@@andreimalacinski3617 Okay thanks! I have some around here some place. When I find them, I'll let you guys know and/or upload a video. I'm low on inventory, but I will be producing some more soon. It's definitely the way to go as far as intake/exhaust studs, etc.
I run 10W40 these days, but I live in a warmer climate also. As long as there is oil in the motor, it doesn't really matter as much as you might think. Just use a good oil and change in regularly.
@@ray5961 good to hear man! Sounds like you have it in tip top shape. Keep posting, im having issues with the TPS and am interested in your solution with the adjustment.
@@redcaddy99 That depends on what your definition of easy is. The NRG quick release helped a lot. It's very well made and high quality. I first installed the steering wheel using an ebay adapter, but that was a joke. With the NRG adapter, it places the steering wheel a bit further towards you, but you get used to it after a while. I had to order better hardware to attach the steering wheel from McMaster (the stainless small bolts). By and large, it was straightforward as far as the overall install. Nothing too crazy. So yes, fairly easy overall.
Thanks brother! Yeah, she's coming along. I just came in from the garage and installing the front grill. The radiator is made by Champion and is really nice. Bolts right on. I have a video covering it from when I first bought it here --> ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-7nm9mIsAqys.html
Not sure if your models are different, but on mine there is no return hose on the air flow meter. Are you referring to the hose that runs from the air box across the top of the radiator and then down under the intake runners (and goes through a round coconut looking thing)? If so, that's part of the AS (air suction) system. There is a valve under the intake runners which opens on deceleration and allows air to flow from the air box around the back of the motor and then it injects air into the exhaust manifold in order to help re-burn exhaust and unburnt fuel when it hits the catalytic converter. Is that the stuff you are referring to? I have a video here which explains how it all functions: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-FdatPPidDM8.html
Mine is a 92 model but my first engine got damage it kept spinning number 3 piston bearings so I changed it to a 91 model engine so it still needs little fine tuning
@@owenfalconer9398 You're welcome :) Yeah, I originally bought this little truck in order to teach myself about Toyota pickups. I originally came from working on old Datsuns, but wanted to learn about Toyota also. I also wanted to own a 90's pickup and know all about it, so I could fix it up if it broke down. So I have learned a lot over the last few years and try to share some of the more interesting areas that I've run across. These old Toyota pickups are really well made and should last forever with proper maintenance.
The header in this video is from LC Engineering and it's actually smog legal here in CA, so yeah it has the hole for the EGR stuff - although I currently have the EGR disabled (by pulling the vacuum line off on the top of the EGR valve itself) for testing purposes.
Not sure, but probably pushing $6K or more considering the 4 wheel disc upgrade, the forged rims and the cylinder head, etc. It adds up after a while. This project was so I could learn about Toyota pickups. The original vehicle was only $800 because it was in really poor condition. I've definitely learned a great deal about Toyota's and this truck specifically. I'm shopping for a 4 cylinder 3rd generation 4Runner now, so a lot of what I have learned rebuilding this truck/motor will carry over into the next project. But yeah, it's quite a bit of time and effort, not to mention parts aren't free.
@@ray5961 its Christmas Day and I’m going to attempt to finish my 88 2wd automatic that I rebuilt the engine 5yrs ago and never had time to work on.A friend of told me - WHY BUY A NEW ONE WHEN YOU CAN FIX IT FOR TWICE THE PRICE. Think I’m going to get a bumper sticker or tee shirt made.LOL.
@@newriver8940 haha, yeah there's a similar quote in the movie Contact w/ Jodie Foster. "The first rule in Government spending: why build one when you can have two at twice the price" or something along those lines lol - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Et4sMJP9FmM.html
BOUT THEM HOSE CLAMPS, NOPE.. NOPE NOPE NOPE... DNT USE THEM SELF THIGHTNENING CLAMPS, TEMPERATURE TENDS TO HAVE THEM LOOSE THEIR COMPRESSION DUE TO BEING METAL, (METAL + HEAT= NO BUENO AMIGO 😐) JUST GO WITH SOME GOOD OLD FASSION THREAD BOLTED CLAMPS, FOR STHETICS THIS WHAT I DO: PUT BOLT HEAD OF CLAMP ON THE BOTTO, WHERE ITS LESS VISIBLE, AFTER ADEQUATE THIGHNEING, FOLD OVER WITH PLIERS THE ESCESS PART OF THE CLAMP, THIS WILL SERVE TWO PURPOSES, ENSURE IT DOESNT COME LOOSE ON ITS OWN, AND COVER UP THE BOLT FOR THE HOSE CLAMP, HOPE THAT TIP HELPED!
@@ray5961 I litterally just pulled it back apart yesterday. Whats weird is my engine sits backwards since its rear engine so the exhaust manifold points forwards. This means longtube headers are a no go which is a drag. I wish they made a 22r derby/demo vertical header because that fitment would be 🍒.
