RTOFL!!!!! I just did the this job this morning in 36 minutes and had to remove nothing. You have room to get the rear plugs a with a 1/4 drive or even better, a stubby 1/4.
I just completed this job in 2.5 hrs and I didn't remove any parts other than the 6 coil packs and 6 plugs I was replacing. Pull the 1 vacuum hose on the right and there is plenty of room to get in behind all of it. Couple tips for the backside, drop your extension and splug socket in then attach the driver. For the middle plug keep the coil pack that is on the driver side out to access that coil pack screw. Do the front plugs first to get an idea of how the wiring harness pulls from the coil pack so you can do it basically blind on the backside. Good luck out there and enjoy saving time and $
This is the way I do my plugs. I also take off the windshield wiper cowling. Makes it easier to work. I do the plugs, a new OEM harness, new front coils, all fluids and the trans pan and filter. I include a cleaning of the throttle body and the fast idle system. It's on the left side of the intake. New gaskets all around and she starts and runs like a dream. I do this every 100,000 miles. Seriously, you can't feel her idle. She just made 296,000. I have now gone 15 years without a car payment.
Thanks for the video. It took me 3+ hrs to replace the 6 spark plugs on my 2000 sienna. I ordered the NGK Iridium Spark Plug from O'Relly. I removed the wiper assembly in order to get more room to reach the 3 screws in the back. I feel the different before and after the spark plug replacement. My horse can pick up much faster now:) Total cost for this job is $47 for the 6 spark plugs plus 3+ hrs free weekend time.Thanks again for the great video.
wat is he doing you dont need to do all that humbug...just reach in behind right side back of motor and you can feel the plug wires for num.3/5 plug. follow the wires to the left side back of motor for num.1 plug...took me 15min for the back num.1/3/5 plugs. not even 5min for num.2/4/6 plugs....seriously you can get to plugs.
Thanks so much for this video. I did remove the cowl panel as suggested by JazzLowrider, and before pulling the manifold, I did as JerBear suggested and felt for the back 3 plugs. It was tight, but this job turned into a no-brainer without the hassle of pulling the manifold. I had to use different lengths of socket extensions but completed the job in about an hour. The sound-track of this video was stuck in my head for the whole job!
I found this video extremely helpful when replacing the manifold gaskets, throttle body gasket, etc. I also found it more helpful removing the cowl cover for better access. After a few close calls when removing hard-to-reach nuts (see index 11:24), I magnetized shallow sockets with a thin earth magnet to keep from dropping them. Appreciate the video. Having a steady cameraman makes for better quality.
Great video. I really appreciate you showing this from the beginning to end. Now I understand why the dealer wanted $400 to change the plugs on my 2000 Sienna.
You can change the rear spark plug by using a spark plug socket, 2- 3" ext./6" ext. For the rear middle and left facing the engine), drop the spark plug socket then 2-3" extension (one at a time) then connect the three and loosen it. To remove and replace, same procedure. Do it one at at time.
I have 2000 Toyota Sienna, just crossed 100,000 miles. This video is detailed, but it will scare you into not replacing the rear spark plugs. I had a P0304 check engine light code (cylider 4 misfire), but didn't want to replace just one spark plug as they all needed replaced. The front 3 were easy (30-min). I then found the following RU-vid video which provides the secret for changing the rear spark plugs. Do not spend all that time taking everything apart; you could spend all day taking these apart and hoping you remember where everything goes. Simply, with the van in park, rock the van forward-and-backward a few times and eventually lock the e-brake when the van is rocked as far forward as it will go. Rocking the van will cause the engine to rotate slightly, providing more room behind the engine (I never knew that was possible). This will give you enough clearance to reach your hand and socket-wrench around the sides of the manifold and replace the spark plugs "by feel". You may need to insert the socket and extension first and the get the correct angle to attach the socket wrench; the clearance is tight back there. This is totally doable; it took me just under 1-hour to replace the rear spark plugs. Watch the first part of this long video and then watch the following short video and you are set! Good luck! How to change 1mz-fe rear spark plugs
Toyota CEO: put the last 3 spark plugs right behind the engine. Toyota engineer: but sir, that will make it harder for people to change their own spark plu.....ohhhhhh😯😯😯
Not a mechanic and thought it was too much to take off. Managed to change them without removing anything but the coils and plugs. Used 2 four inch extensions and lots of patience. But this video helped to see what I needed to remove.
Just a heads-up for anyone who--like me--still drives one of these faithful old vans (mine is a '99 :~). I watched this video yesterday and changed my plugs last night. NOTE--You do NOT need to remove the manifold or throttle body as shown in this video! A. As you see, the front three plugs are simply enough--remove the cover, electrical connections, and coils, and replace. (Now would be a good time to point out I am a DIY accountant, not a mechanic. So I don't know what half this stuff is called.) I broke one of the plastic clips on the L-shaped electrical connectors in front of the plugs. It would probably stay in place due to the plug's tension alone, but after I was done and reconnected it, I used two nylon cable ties to ensure it stays in place. B. Plug 4 (back-right). This was actually my hardest. For the back three plugs, if you don't want to remove the manifold, etc., you WILL need a flexible/jointed ratchet or swivel extension. I used various combinations of a regular ratchet, 4-inch extension, 6-inch extension, and a swivel join. My ratchet wrench itself was not jointed, but others recommend one, esp. for this plug. If you don't have (and can't get) a wrench or joint that swivels or flexes, you will need to remove more parts. Anyway, I got my plug out alright, but once I got the new one in, I couldn't tighten it very easily since my ratchet handle kept hitting various parts around the throttle body. A shorter (5- or 6-inch) ratchet would have been ideal. I got it snug, but certainly couldn't torque it like I did the others. C. Plug 5 (back-middle). This was the easiest of the back three to access. I left the cap/coil off #4, then pulled the cap/coil off #5. The angle gave more room for the ratchet on this one. D. Plug 6 (back-left). Before you go any further, watch this video. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-a5orM7uFVps.html I basically did what he did. It takes a fair bit of extra work, but as long as you're careful, it goes fairly quickly and without complication. --Nothing like removing everything AutosNCars removes here. Once you have removed the wipers, vents, and the big tray in front of the firewall/windshield, accessing #6 is fairly easy. NOTE: on my model I did NOT have to move or push back the metal bracket to which this Hispanic gentleman referred. What I DID have to do was pull the caps/coils back off plugs #4 and #5, then pull #6 and all three wires out of my way. I also removed one small electrical connector up near the firewall, next to a larger connector that I left alone. Once I did that, I was able to use my extension and swivel to easily remove and replace the sixth plug. This was the first time I have replaced the plugs in my 1999 Sienna. The job--including a few back-tracks--took a total of roughly 3 hours. --Certainly well-worth the $200 - $300 in savings over going to a mechanic. If you read this comment in the next month or so and have a question, feel free to ask. Much past a month, I will have forgotten what I did and be of little help! :~)
That sounds a lot better. After the second "Aw shit" and "Jesus", plus the "oh fuck", I was seriously considering that should my plugs need replacing, I'd settle for a three cylinder engine. ;) And for the record, I'm a formidable backyard mechanic.
Did my 1999 yesterday about 2 hours make sure u have several ( 3 two inch extensions and a 6 inch also a universal /wobbly joint) A cheep 3 jointed rachet from harbor freight is also needed) Also u can get a couple of more inches of clearance in the back if you have someone block the wheels after rocking it in park. The cowling in front of windshield with wiper motor needs to be removed also. Good luck guys YOU CAN DO IT !!! DON"T REMOVE THE INTAKE MANIFOLD NOT NECESSARY !!!!!!!!!!!!
I totally agree. I had to mute audio the first 3:30. I spoke too soon. It started up a couple of more times. It really could have been a very good video.
I do Have a similar car with a leaking top cover gasket and after watching this video, I am ending to Autozone to buy the parts and do it myself. This is a very helpful video. Thanks a lot.
Thanks for the great video. I am planning on replacing the plugs on a good friends 1999 and needed to know what gaskets and special tools i needed for the job. The main issue i am faced with is i am told that one of the plugs is stuck or wont come all the way out. That will just add some risk to the job, which i like. Yea, Like John, that music is stuck in my head, and i know that i will probably be making the same grunting sounds. I'm going to take all the other recommendations and see if i can do it without taking the intake off, however with my gorilla hands, that might not be an option. Thanks again, Great job and kudos to the camera man for really getting in there and adding light where it needed it.
wat is he doing you dont need to do all that humbug...just reach in behind right side back of motor and you can feel the plug wires for num.3/5 plug. follow the wires to the left side back of motor for num.1 plug...took me 15min for the back num.1/3/5 plugs. not even 5min for num.2/4/6 plugs....seriously you can get to plugs.
For anybody curious, i just did this job. Removed the windsheild wiper cowling in 5 minutes and had super easy access to the rear injectors. Entire job took me an hour and a half. This video far over complicates the job. I did it on a 03 sienna v6
Just changed mine TODAY! You only need to remove the cowl and the plastic tray under the wiper blades! There are better videos then this one. Took me about 90 minutes! This video is the WRONG way to change the plugs!!!
Nice job! I did replace mine in my 02 Sienna in about 3hours. Removing the fasteners in the firewall holding the intake were the worst part of the job.
wat is he doing you dont need to do all that humbug...just reach in behind right side back of motor and you can feel the plug wires for num.3/5 plug. follow the wires to the left side back of motor for num.1 plug...took me 15min for the back num.1/3/5 plugs. not even 5min for num.2/4/6 plugs....seriously you can get to plugs.
I did that to my 1998 sienna many time without removing a single part but the pure spark plugs. You just need small ratchets. Dealers charge $650 just for this job.
wat is he doing you dont need to do all that humbug...just reach in behind right side back of motor and you can feel the plug wires for num.3/5 plug. follow the wires to the left side back of motor for num.1 plug...took me 15min for the back num.1/3/5 plugs. not even 5min for num.2/4/6 plugs....seriously you can get to plugs.
I remember tuning up my 97 camry same engine...I didn't have to remove the intake ..i just use two short extension to pull the sparks plugs out ..lol!took a bit of time...I use E3 sparks plugs it lasts 80 thousands mile..i use on all my Cars!
I have a 2000 sienna and I just went and followed the wires around to the backside and despite the tight fit I believe I'll be able to change it without moving anything! Of course it helps to have small hands and arms and like a commenter below wrote, I'll have to bear hug the engine.
+Doe Gasque Yeah, I know what you mean. My daughter's boyfriend bought her a 2000 Sienna with 206,000 miles for Christmas and I've been fixing/replacing things to get it into good working order the last couple of weeks...replaced the four burned-out bulbs(#194) in the instrument cluster, a burned-out headlight along with a burned-out bulb in the taillights. I replaced the PCV valve and the grommet several days ago and what a PITA job that was when compared to the multitude of Hondas I've owned over the years...just a horrible location for a regularly serviced item. I was very careful not to lose the old(and really attached) grommet inside the hole but it fell inside anyway. Thank goodness I own a retrieval tool which was able to reach down and grab it and then I ripped it all the way out with vice-grip needle nose pliers. My heart was in my throat when the grommet fell inside the hole since I had surveyed the rear valve cover area and it appeared to be a bear to get to anything back there. I'll definitely be removing the cowl if and when I decide to tackle the dreaded rear spark plugs replacement.
wat is he doing you dont need to do all that humbug...just reach in behind right side back of motor and you can feel the plug wires for num.3/5 plug. follow the wires to the left side back of motor for num.1 plug...took me 15min for the back num.1/3/5 plugs. not even 5min for num.2/4/6 plugs....seriously you can get to plugs.
Holly Golly! I did not finish watching this video, so I replaced front spark plugs and ignition coil, which helped me to fix problem with misfiring on my 2000 Sienna. Then I couldn't find next 3 plugs and came back to this video. Well, now I know, now I know, that until I'll get code, pointing to 1/3/5 cylinder, I'm going to leave replacing back spark plugs till the next time. Thanks for video!
***** Well, first off, I've replaced Air fuel ratio sensor about 4 months ago. There was misfire also, but Innova 3100 gave exact code. This time It shown P0300 - means it does not point to any specific malfunctioning part. Even guy from auto repair could not tell what was it (he calculated $900 estimate though). But he guessed and was right about Ignition Coil. The long part of it looked burned a bit in comparison to the rest 2 of them. I replaced spark plugs just in case. The good thing that I didn't have misfire anymore. The engine worked smooth, the smell is gone completely and Check Engine did not show up again, after I reset it. On your question: "...unburnt fuel goes through exhaust manifold and damages the rear air fuel sensor" - I'm not sure how is this possible. Bad Air fuel ratio sensor can damage Catalytic Converter ($1500 to replace) - that's for sure. But if engine runs smooth and you have no Check Engine, then I see no purpose in doing that. But if you want so - go ahead. There are a lot of parts in your car, you won't have enough money and time to replace them all, better buy a new vehicle.
wat is he doing you dont need to do all that humbug...just reach in behind right side back of motor and you can feel the plug wires for num.3/5 plug. follow the wires to the left side back of motor for num.1 plug...took me 15min for the back num.1/3/5 plugs. not even 5min for num.2/4/6 plugs....seriously you can get to plugs.
Great video will be doing a full tune up fluid drain and refill full exhaust change and suspension upgrade to my wife’s 2000 Sienna! This video sums up everything I need to know !
wat is he doing you dont need to do all that humbug...just reach in behind right side back of motor and you can feel the plug wires for num.3/5 plug. follow the wires to the left side back of motor for num.1 plug...took me 15min for the back num.1/3/5 plugs. not even 5min for num.2/4/6 plugs....seriously you can get to plugs.
I was able to replace all the sparkplugs in our 2000 Sienna 3.0 in about an hour and did not need to remove anything. It's a tight space but a 3\8 craftsman medium extension, ratchet, and a plug socket is all that was needed. the hardest part was getting the boot off the left rear plug.
+AutosNCars I kind of wished I had. My wife was there watching me bear hug the engine. I was able to reach through the intake on the right hand side starting with the right rear plug and then work my way towards the left. At that point I had to also reach in on the left side with my other hand to get the boot out. Getting in there will depend on the size of your arms I suppose.
It's a bit tight but much easier than pulling the plenum off etc. I had a plug boot stay on a plug so I couldn't get a 5/8" plug socket down to turn the plug to get it out. After consulting a mechanic, put some super glue on the plug wire insulated stem and pressed it back on. Let the glue set to adhere to the boot and Wa La! pulled the rubber boot off. Even with boot silicon grease the rubber boots, including the coil packs, can stick. I now will go about every 30 to 50k miles to pull the boots and regrease so I won't have this problem again.
wat is he doing you dont need to do all that humbug...just reach in behind right side back of motor and you can feel the plug wires for num.3/5 plug. follow the wires to the left side back of motor for num.1 plug...took me 15min for the back num.1/3/5 plugs. not even 5min for num.2/4/6 plugs....seriously you can get to plugs.
holy crap... i just change mine. you need a 6" extension and a lot of patience. no need to remove the manifold at all! on the left rear, there's a nut holding 2 ground wires. remove that, then you can remove the crank case ventilation hose. that would give you more than enough room to maneuver a small spanner and socket wrench. Plan your attack, before actually attacking the job. LoL.... took me 3 hours, but that's mostly from trying to figure out stuff. If i have to do it all again, should be done in less than an hour. Shop estimate is $400 (they claim one coil must be replaced). my actual parts cost is $36 for the six iridium plugs. $12 for the anti-seize compound (which i can use for many other jobs). also bought my own Code reader ($55), and that's how i found out 2-4-6 cylinders are misfiring, making me decide on changing all plugs. no fault codes after plug replacements. engine light was gone too, without any need to reset.
nope. it was actually the OCV (oil control valve) making the engine run crappy (engine chk light did come back when i got stuck in traffic). ordered for both banks online (about $50 from RockAuto vs $1200 at the local auto parts store), and engine is purring again.
Missy, if you have the patience, you can do it. But you have to be mechanically experienced too. You don't want to mess up the treads for the plugs. Just be careful, don't get frustrated, and think how you'll overcome the obstacles. I wouldn't say it's easy, but I wouldn't say it's rocket science either. Have someone familiar on hand to give you advice as you go. If you have a sienna, look at lexus videos on youtube in the same year make, as they have very similar parts placement. In fact, I always said my sienna is like a lexus with cheaper clothes. LoL
No need to remove the intake manifold. You can get a 3/8 in ratchet at harbor freight that has a swivel on handle and head of ratchet. Along with two 3” extension and you can reach around the top and back of the manifold. The two back left ones are the hardest to get to and can both be done in less than 15 minutes both remove and replace. No need to remove the whole top of wiper assembly cover either as in other videos. Too simple of job made to look so difficult. Message me if you need more assistance with this. I would be glad to help. There is also a video our that shows this done. I believe its a Spanish man that does it. His You Tube Channel is 1unicorn1. He shows to remove the wiper cover assembly. I did it without removing this part with ease and no problems.
Great video. Thanks. I have a 1998 Sienna LE. Is thsi also the best way to get to all 6 Fuel Injectors? Is this the only way? Any input would be greatly appreciated.
GREAT VIDEO! Thanks for taking the time to produce it. It is going to make a really tough job a lot easier (whenever I work up the patience to take it on).
Great video, but The Toyota Service Manual said remove the Cowl Panel Assembly first, a bunch of 10mm bolts that will make it 10 times easier with much more clearance, that is how I changed mine, you’re doing it the hard way.
Did it on my 2007... put NGK Iridiums in it... took original Densos out... hangs better on the throttle... engine runs smoother... moderate cruising fuel economy jumped 3 mpg's...on state highway max is now 25 mpg
wat is he doing you dont need to do all that humbug...just reach in behind right side back of motor and you can feel the plug wires for num.3/5 plug. follow the wires to the left side back of motor for num.1 plug...took me 15min for the back num.1/3/5 plugs. not even 5min for num.2/4/6 plugs....seriously you can get to plugs.
wat is he doing you dont need to do all that humbug...just reach in behind right side back of motor and you can feel the plug wires for num.3/5 plug. follow the wires to the left side back of motor for num.1 plug...took me 15min for the back num.1/3/5 plugs. not even 5min for num.2/4/6 plugs....seriously you can get to plugs.
So they estimated me at ~500+$ for spark plugs and wires that are still running after 17+ years, i think i can handle the job myslef but wish you did the wires with the plugs, that would've been a good idea since you're dismantling everything, looksnlike it took you over night to finish the job?
They're coil over plugs; no spark plug wires. The coil packs only get replaced if they fail which is pretty rare. On the same note of preventative maintenance, though, I'd change that PCV valve in the rear left corner. $8 from the dealer and you'll never have better access then you do with that manifold off.
OK. I thought doing this was a piece of cake but, after watching this video, paying $697 for inspection, parts and all this labor (not to mention saving me grief) is not that much anymore.
wat is he doing you dont need to do all that humbug...just reach in behind right side back of motor and you can feel the plug wires for num.3/5 plug. follow the wires to the left side back of motor for num.1 plug...took me 15min for the back num.1/3/5 plugs. not even 5min for num.2/4/6 plugs....seriously you can get to plugs.
I changed all spark plugs easily on my 2000 sienna but the last one on the back passenger side broke.. I removed the windshield wiper system and you can reach them all.. the way this guy is doing it is harder but may help you not break a spark plugs on the back side.
wat is he doing you dont need to do all that humbug...just reach in behind right side back of motor and you can feel the plug wires for num.3/5 plug. follow the wires to the left side back of motor for num.1 plug...took me 15min for the back num.1/3/5 plugs. not even 5min for num.2/4/6 plugs....seriously you can get to plugs.
talk about what? :))) You know, my problem is that I talk too much. I think if I will talk, I will stop do what I was actually doing and just talk about everything. But this will be a different video :)
I did this ten years ago but did not need to remove anything. There are lots of wires/pipes but I was able to insert socket wrench extension first and then attach the wrench handle. You can't see anything so you have to rely on your fingers. It took me two hours. I bought iridium plugs thinking they will last 100k miles so I only need to do it once. 100k miles later my sienna outlasted the plugs and it's time to do it again.
Those three bolts in back holding the intake manifold were a nightmare. Took 2 hrs to get out. Even with cowl off. Didnt know what size bolts so kept trying diff ones.
wat is he doing you dont need to do all that humbug...just reach in behind right side back of motor and you can feel the plug wires for num.3/5 plug. follow the wires to the left side back of motor for num.1 plug...took me 15min for the back num.1/3/5 plugs. not even 5min for num.2/4/6 plugs....seriously you can get to plugs.
A mecahic will echarte me almost $200 just to change spsrk, so i took it to another mechanic guest what? He didnt take anything away and he only echarme $50 bucks. ?
Would been easier removing the windshield wipers and covers above the engine. I didnt this on a mazda before. Same engine same design. Now i have to do my moms sienna. Ugh 😆
that be removing more parts and what a technician do is try to do the job without moving that many parts. because the customer is not paying for the other parts. then if something goes wrong the company or the technician if his doing a sidejob he needs to pay for those parts
wat is he doing you dont need to do all that humbug...just reach in behind right side back of motor and you can feel the plug wires for num.3/5 plug. follow the wires to the left side back of motor for num.1 plug...took me 15min for the back num.1/3/5 plugs. not even 5min for num.2/4/6 plugs....seriously you can get to plugs.
wat is he doing you dont need to do all that humbug...just reach in behind right side back of motor and you can feel the plug wires for num.3/5 plug. follow the wires to the left side back of motor for num.1 plug...took me 15min for the back num.1/3/5 plugs. not even 5min for num.2/4/6 plugs....seriously you can get to plugs.
+onesri The cowl/wiper cover has some push clips and bolts in it. Take flat head screw driver and pop off wiper nut covers, at bottom of shaft. Take both nuts off. slide wipers off shaft. Detach all clips (push upward) from rubber hood seal (top front of cowl). Now, should be able to take top plastic cover off wiper shafts. Detach clamp from side hose. Now unbolt and remove cowl. Been awhile back since I did this project. Hope that helps.
wat is he doing you dont need to do all that humbug...just reach in behind right side back of motor and you can feel the plug wires for num.3/5 plug. follow the wires to the left side back of motor for num.1 plug...took me 15min for the back num.1/3/5 plugs. not even 5min for num.2/4/6 plugs....seriously you can get to plugs.
esos toyotas son problematicos y delicados, yo tengo un sienna ,empezo a temblar y parpadiar el chekinge ,el mecanico me dijo cambiar bujias y las 3 bobinas del fondo y esta muy complicado para sacarlos , total hizo ese trabajo, y despues de manejar 10 minutios empezo la misma fallas, y me dijo que lo chekeara de nuevo,
wat is he doing you dont need to do all that humbug...just reach in behind right side back of motor and you can feel the plug wires for num.3/5 plug. follow the wires to the left side back of motor for num.1 plug...took me 15min for the back num.1/3/5 plugs. not even 5min for num.2/4/6 plugs....seriously you can get to plugs.
the v6 front wheel is pain in the ass when changing the spark plugs , were trying to save money on the v6 front wheel but more maintenance compared to the rear wheel engines
I would disagree. The car by it self is a very good one. It will never ever give up on you. Location of a sparkplugs is pretty weird but it is not that bad as Lexus RX for example.
wat is he doing you dont need to do all that humbug...just reach in behind right side back of motor and you can feel the plug wires for num.3/5 plug. follow the wires to the left side back of motor for num.1 plug...took me 15min for the back num.1/3/5 plugs. not even 5min for num.2/4/6 plugs....seriously you can get to plugs.
@@mbr3232 I actually had to do the valve cover gaskets as well so i took the air plenum off and whatever was in the way.. Ended up purchasing a years subscription from ALLDATA for the info I couldn't find, it was around 25 bucks not bad..
For me just use angle rachet and 2 0r 3 short socket extension and put one by one. you dont need to remove the monifold.. i know space so small but you can and the front just remove the plastic cover.. and it takes 30 minutes to complete the job...
I did my back plugs just by blind feel. Lay a bunch of towels down and lay on them. It takes the strain off your back. It's kind of a bear but easier than taking off all this crap. Use iridium plugs. My van has 270k and is my daily driver.
The first 3 plugs seems easy enough but do you have to remove everything to get to the back three? The video is labeled "Spark plug Replacement" so do I need to remove all of this for the rear plugs. The video did not make that clear.I have been going through it and cannot find where you changed the rear plugs. If anyone see where the rear plugs were changed can you please respond with the time stamp. Thanks
Yea the first three looked pretty simple but I could not find where he replaced the back plugs. That looked like a lot of work and I definitely need to know how the back plugs are changed
The factory spark plugs are designed to go for 100,000 miles. The spark plugs are usually never the problem and never need replacement. It's usually the vacuum lines or sensor related. Do the plugs when you do the T-Belt and NEVER trust a flat rate mechanic. Got to be careful what temperature the engine is at or you will pull the threads out, that's why he used the anti seize. This tech has a great feel for the wrench but most guys need a torque wrench when it comes to the Intake Manifold bolts.
Ok I found the part where he changed he rear plugs. It is at starts at 19:13. Looks like you do have to take all of that off. Maybe you can just remove the windshield washers and that cover below them for some extra space. I tried that today and found that the cover does not come off easily. So I think I am just going to have to remove everything like he did to get to the rear plugs. Oh well. The van has 175K miles and I can hear and feel one of the plugs not firing properly. I am pretty sure it is one of the rear plugs. I am not sure if just replacing the first three now and the others later would not more harm than good. It is too bad because changing the belts (air conditioner and power steering), was really easy. All I have left to do is replace the spark plugs and the spark plug cables and everything will be finished.
No you don't. I guess he took off the links I gave. On the left side of bank 1, the #1 plug can be accessed. just remove the ground wire and the hose blocking it. the #2 plug, can be accessed from the top, in between the manifold or also from the right side. The #3 plug, you can access from the right side. The 3 easy ones are #4-6 which is on bank 2 (front side of engine)
Sucks you had to remove the intake manifold. I was able to do it on our 2003 sienna with just a 3/8ths and extension with a swivel socket and spark plug socket.
wat is he doing you dont need to do all that humbug...just reach in behind right side back of motor and you can feel the plug wires for num.3/5 plug. follow the wires to the left side back of motor for num.1 plug...took me 15min for the back num.1/3/5 plugs. not even 5min for num.2/4/6 plugs....seriously you can get to plugs.
If he had some training and a few years experience, he would have realized he dident have to remove the intake at all and had it done in half the time. A lot of unnessary work my friend.
RIGHTTTTT....wat is he doing you dont need to do all that humbug...just reach in behind right side back of motor and you can feel the plug wires for num.3/5 plug. follow the wires to the left side back of motor for num.1 plug...took me 15min for the back num.1/3/5 plugs. not even 5min for num.2/4/6 plugs....seriously you can get to plugs.
@@mbr3232 hopfuly with the proper training, proper tools and a few years experience at a good independent repair facility. This person could become a talented technician, I've trained quite a few of them. Thank you for your response.
