There is no better video on the internet than this one for this wiring...Thank you so much, cant wait to see all your content...Got an ep82 and hopefully I will be able do this install thanks a lot and keep it going :)
Should be very similar, just different pin positions on the 7a ECU. (Assuming its using a distributor) Just match the name of the pins and find their location.
Great video, am seriously considering this for my gs300. A few questions: Why do you need to connect the narrow band to a switch, can you just leave it disconnected? Why do you need two map sensor inputs? Can you just use the in built sensor only to free up another input? Is it possible to input knock sensor to detect detonation? Thanks
@V101ATA Thanks, I chose to have a switch on the NBO2 as I wanted to be able to tune without interference and then switch it back on to log and investigate how much it interferes! It also helps with emissions when switched on. Yes, exactly correct. You always have to intercept the original MAP sensor wire to send the det3 modified signal to the Toyota ECU on the cut end, but you don't have to connect the original map signal to the det3 if you're not using it. This saves the input if using the 4 bar internal. I was originally going to use a 2 bar Glanza map sensor in the bay (better resolution than 4bar over 5v ;-)) so that is why I connected it. You can then use the det3 without internal map if you wanted. Don't think the det 3 can interpret a knock sensor signal directly as an input. Usually the sensor output needs to be "processed" to make sense of the signal and then send a knock warning (like WBO2 needing a controller) Good questions
Very helpful thank you for this video I have question regarding MAF conversion to MAP In this case the analog output should go to ECM MAF or still to MAP sensor
I have not done a MAF to MAP conversion, but the wiring diagrams show that the MAF signal goes into the det 3 on analogue #1 and the analogue out connects to the cut MAF wire going to the vehicles original ECU (intercept type connection). This allows logging of MAF voltage to generate a fuel "table" and then feed the generated 0-5v values to the car ECU to control fuelling with the new MAP sensor. Frequency MAF's need different connections.
I don't know enough about the 2az-fe to advise either way. The det 3 is universal, but the more modern an engine is, the harder it is to run with a piggy back. Worth emailing ECUmaster, they might have experience with them.
Thank you! I need this information to do the wiring correctly and let the tuner do the rest. Question: Do I have to make an extra hole in the down pipe to get the wide band in? The tuner shop told me it is necessary and the O2 sensor cannot be unplugged during the process. Any idea? Thanks!
I would add a new bung to the exhaust for the Wideband O2 sensor and keep the stock Toyota sensor as well. The stock Toyota O2 sensor is used for idle and cruise fuelling feedback (closed loop). Better fuel economy, better emissions.
Dan if I can trouble you again. Like you, my stock map sensor cant read boost. You've answered before about using the analog 2 for load and modify signals. Would I need to hook up the factory 1 bar (no boost reading) map sensor into and out of the det3as well? Based on what I hear in this video I should. I don't know if you ended up using the glanza map sensor or not (able to read boost). In other words, if I'm using the analog 2 location for timing and fuel, what role does the factory non-boost reading map sensor play in hooking up to the det3? Do I tap into that (in/out of the det3) or no?
You still have to cut (intercept) the factory MAP sensor signal wire to the stock ecu and as a minimum, attatch the cut end that runs to the factory ecu to the det 3 analogue out. This is how you send the modified det 3 4bar map sensor signal to the factory ecu to adjust fuelling. You don't have to connect the other end of the factory 1bar map sensor signal wire to a det analogue input as it will not read anything above 0psi. I chose to do this in case I found a glanza 2 bar map sensor in time, which I couldn't, so I used the 4bar and it was fine.
It's used to adjust fuel, retard ignition timing on boost, etc etc. I've got a few videos on my channel about it, there's lots of detail in them explaining it. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-psa4l2wEOYs.html
Hi Dan, i know this video is kind of old but i hope you will still see this comment, i installed the det3 on my bmw e46 330i. The car starts now after the map upload but my gaspedal isn’t working and there is a loud buzzing sound coming from the throttle body. Do you know what this could he? I’m stuck with this problem for quite some time now. Hope you can help!
I don't know much about your setup (wiring) so I'll do my best. I'm guessing you have spliced into the TPS position signal wire for either Fuel implant setup or piggyback? I once read on a BMW forum a guy was fitting nitrous to a 3.0 z4 and he had the same problem when he tapped into the DBW throttle for TPS activation. It upset the voltage to the BMW ecu and he couldn't install it like that. If there is a wire from det 3 to tps have you tried disconnecting it from det 3 to see if the throttle works again? Or the wiring is wrong.
@@dan91sgarage Thanks for responding! Yes it’s a fuel inplant setup and i indeed spliced into the TPS wire! I just disconnected the spliced in wire from the DET 3 and ran the TPS wire in the original way, now the gaspedal works again but i still hear the very loud buzzing sound. I reconnected the DET 3 wire in the TPS wire and just taped it together to see if the gaspedal would act up again but it still works now🤔 could it be because of a bad solder connection? I think this is pretty weird
@@gorlovka5740 Think you need to check what the buzzing noise is first! Can you see in the throttle body to see if the plate is flapping open and closed causing the noise? Does it have a separate Idle control valve or is it done with the throttle body plate?
@@dan91sgarage yeah that is maybe smart to check, the sound sounds like it’s really coming from the throttle body itself. It has a separate idle control valve. Will check the flapping plate tonight but i have to the intake manifold off to get the aftermarket cupling off the throttlebody. Thanks for the help!
ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-dXtzCMs2b6Q.html The video above shows how to build a plug and play harness for the EP91. The description of the video has all the necessary part numbers which are made by AMP / TE connectivity. I believe that I bought the plugs / sockets / and crimp terminals from Mouser electronics. If you google the part numbers they'll show up. The DET 3 plug comes with the det 3 and the pre made leads are available from eBay.
As far as I know when using fuel implant mode the injectors are controlled completely by the DET3 and the old ECU has no connection to them, so it can't influence the fuelling. Not sure about the ignition timing though, it looks like the old ecu is still be able to influence timing...Not used Fuel implant mode myself. If you need full control of both fuel and ignition, a different standalone ECU is a better option.
I thought the same but Some guys had problems with this as Hyundai ecu is trying to interfere so they suggested that it might not work. Iam changing ignition to electronic coil which will be controlled by det3 that will solve the issue. Or the guys could be wrong? Thanks
I have the stock Toyota narrowband sensor installed, still connected to the toyota ecu but the signal has a switch to turn it off if it starts to interfere with the piggy back fuelling. I will install the AEM wideband sensor in a new bung and connect it to a gauge and the plan is to connect it to the DET3 for datalogging also.
@@dan91sgarage Interesting. I replaced the narrowband with the wideband and wired to the ECU. Have a lot of trouble with the car running right and think it may be the wideband freaking out the ecu.
@@niallbrennan2775 Virtually all narrowband O2 sensors output voltage swings between 0-1v and the Toyota ecu recognizes that range for rich to lean. The Wideband O2 signal output is 0-5v and shows a range of AFR conditions. If you are sending 0-5v into a computer looking for 0-1v I think that's the issue. Some widebands have a separate, simulated narrowband output signal which should work though. Haven't checked if the AEM has simulated nbo2.
Well I have a quick question I'm running the det3 on my car with 4 injectors wired to the output 1. where do I connect the frequency in on det3 to tell the injectors when to open
@@jonnymbrey2257 To control 4 grouped injectors on one output via the PWM table #1 with det 3 in piggyback mode the instructions say: All 4 injectors connected to Power out #1 (pin 20) Original injector signal from vehicle ECU connected to Frequency in (pin 10) with pullup (pin 8) connected too Additional power ground connected to ground (pin 19)
@@jonnymbrey2257 According to the instruction manual, to use the piggyback PWM table to control all 4 injectors directly, the car must be wired like this from the factory: Vehicle ecu has 1 injector driver, sending a signal down 1 injector wire that connects to all 4 injectors. You intercept this signal wire and control the signal via the det 3 PWM table. You can't just cut 2 wires (injector pairs) or 4 wires (sequential) and wire all 4 injectors to the output and then pick one random signal wire to drive all 4 injectors. It won't run well unfortunately The det3 can be wired up many different ways, if you let me know more about the car I can help you with the best options.
I have only used the det3 in piggyback mode. I know the wiring is very different and the computer tuning programme is also a different version for fuel implant. Not very easy to switch between the 2 types of install.
@@dan91sgarage arf...ok thank you for your answer. I have a friend who has alredy make the same wiring in piggyback, but I try in Fuel Implant for an another car but I don't have good result 😪
The problem with knock sensors is that they send out a frequency signal. The signal usually needs a software processor to interpret the signal to tell the difference between knock events and normal valvetrain noise. Even if the det 3 can read the signal it may be difficult to tell what is knock and what isn't. Best to check with ecumaster, but I don't think it's possible.
@@dan91sgarage thank you for your reply.. anyways, keep it up and ive learned a lot from your video regarding det3… am just a beginner in tuning, if you have some vids about doing the tune please guide me thru it..
I did make a video on how I tuned my Starlet Turbo using the det 3 in piggyback mode: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ZUWqCMIKNTI.html Hope it helps
I tried that on my first install and the engine wouldn't even start! No spark / no sync on laptop. Disconnected the pullup and it ran fine and revved out. My current install doesn't use a pullup.
@@withinb7268 Well, check the wiring, check the ignition setup in the software is correct. Also check you haven't accidentally enabled launch control as this acts as a limiter. Is it an EP91 starlet?
I'd start with the Haynes repair manual for the car, sometimes they're in the wiring diagrams. If not try the Toyota owners forums, they can usually help.
@@dan91sgarage sorry to bother so much. My det3 isnt recognized by my Laptop (det3 cannot connect). What could be the reason? And I wired the cable from the sensor to ignition in and the ignition bipolar out to the ecu. Is that correct?
Try downloading and installing the det3 usb drivers from the ecumaster website: www.ecumaster.com/download/ There are different ways to wire the crank angle sensor depending on which sensor you have (VR single, VR differential etc.) I don't know which sensor your vehicle has, so can't confirm if it's correct. The instruction manual does show the connection you have chosen is for VR single ended sensors.
What car is the 4efe engine fitted to? The Toyota ECU for the Starlet EP91 can't be remapped. You have to use a piggyback ECU (Det3, Emanage) or a standalone computer (Haltech Link....)
The Det3 is meant to be a universal piggyback so yes, it should work on a petrol 2004 corolla. Obviously the wiring will be different as they never had the 4efe in the 04 'rolla's
