Good info as usual. I run a td04 @ 16psi-stock internals and makes 140kw at wheels . Haltech ecu .car is track car so only goes hard for 20min at a time. Touch wood no problems so far. Phil
My COMPLETELY STOCK 4efe is on 10psi trough an eBay GT3582 with a .63 rear housing. I made my own log style manifold (gross I know). the logs 1 1/4” diameter is less than a T3 flange, so it required a built of building with the mig to make it fit. Seeking as the logs open into an open chamber under the t3 flange, I’d imagine it breathes alright. At roll racing I ran it with a 50 shot of nitrous and 12 psi boost with 6 degrees more timing than on street duties. It’s thrashed on the daily to work and back and I’ve had no issues on 98 octane fuel. Built 5e is in the works, so we should see some impressive power out of the little thing. Keep up the good work Matt!!
Discovered this back in early 2000, then I was running stock 4efte with t3/4 s-trim, 63ar turbine on 4efe cast manifold chopped to add t3 flange, making 325whp/25psi. Stock ECU with Tech Toms e-prom & e-manage blue. Stock head with 4age valve springs, stock head gasket at 60lbft . The key to keep things together is in total timing. Tune for max HP and then take a couple deg off. I also did a stock 5efhe engine and made 364hp with the above. 4e is the way to make big power. Now here in Jamaica we have 600+ and looking to do 800+
Hi Matt!do you recommend to use sleeved block for forged appications?i'll be using stock size wiseco pistons with recommended piston to wall clearence on sleeved block.
@@MattBerrymotorsport but wasting a lot of money to buy different engines instead machining it...then if you machine it properly you can squeeze more up to around 650hp or more
4agze or 2zz will solve this issue, had many 4efte setups constant issues, i upgraded to 2zz setup after never looked back since, even 1zz forged with turbo setup light block and pull good power, worth converting if your bothered, hope my experienced insight has helped. good content keep up good work fellas
Great video thanks. I noticed another one of your videos you had 6-1 merge collector templates.. do you have something available? If not would you be interested in selling the actual 3d template file?
hey mate, Have you ever thought about twin turboing one of these beasts? I would love to do that to mine when i get to that stage. im still at the stage where i am converting my n/a starlet into a glanza. got all the looms and parts off a glanza and transplanting into my sportif. After that I will eventually look for more power and I will be using your videos as a reference on what to do and not to do. Thanks for all your fun mate. I always look forward to your videos. All the best from the UK
@@kalebgullan4157 haha, I'm the same guy just different account. Not a 2jz but I'm actually in the process of putting a 2zz in there 😅. it's this channel if your interested 😀.
I'm still building my 5efe tercel, I just got it fired up not that long ago, but I'm starting to get concerned I went too small for the turbo, I went with a td04hl, what's a cheap turbo you recommend that will not make the engine blow itself up?
Sorry i wasn't more specific in the video, td04 are still a fantastic turbo, just dont wind the boost too high it all depends what sort of power you want to make Have a look at the pulsar turbos, :)
He Matt, I have had exactly the same with my machined CT9H, gone for a Holset he200wg right now with a 5.5cm rearhousing. They are very efficient turbo's spooling efficient up to a wopping 51psi, which I am never going to run! Gonna rock my forged 5efte up to about 20psi and see where it sits. My car is currently at the dyno will prolly get it back somewhere next week. I will keep you posted! 😁
Thanks for the comment man id love to hear all about it!! I ront doubt you can get 51psi with that turbo, but rememeber you can still have pressure without flow...
@@MattBerrymotorsport yes very true, I am gonna run a maximum of about 20/22psi which would roughly be good for 260/280ish hp more than enoufg for the roads here 🙃😄
@@RCeditit did you ever get the holset running? I have a holset HE221W to use and have heard they perform similar to a td04 bit are way more efficient and take a lot more boost.
@@ayautomotivevisuals yes I got it running and still going strong for abour 1.5 year now. Running 1.25 bar of boost which gives me 285hp. Full boost at 3500rpm all the way till 8200rpm. Very efficiënt turbo, its at the roller this week, will get a coil on plug conversion and a 1.4 bar mapping. Gonna be about 300hp. In comparison to the TD04, its way quicker in getting on boost and has more life in it beyond 1.5 bar. 300hp is more then enough considering our gearboxes.
@@RCeditit that's some great results and information! I'm looking forward to getting it on 😇 thanks for the quick reply 🤘 out of curiosity, what size boost pipe are you running on the hot side of the turbo? The outlet on the compressor of the HE221W is only around 1.5" but that seems ridiculously small. That said, the research I've done suggests that it could work pretty well using smaller diameter tube. I've just always used 2.25".
@@MattBerrymotorsport I’ve build mine 3 years ago…zrp rods wossner pistons Cometic head gasket arp bolts 550cc injectors and a walbro fuel pump and aeromotive fuel pressure regulator and I’m running on a fueltech ft300 with 2860 hybrid turbo…it has never ever caused me a problem
Great insight there Matt. As you know im running a forged 1.3L with a TD04 and the small 99 Forester 4cm exhaust housing. ive recently plumbed in a braided line to the exhaust manifold to measure the exhaust manifold pressure vs intake pressure, When i take the readings ill let you know. Thanks for sharing your experience.
@@MattBerrymotorsport I got out this arvo and gave it some runs and recorded the following info X 3..... 19psi of boost at the intake manifold. 37psi at the exhaust manifold. Wich equates to 1.9:1 EX to IN ratio. I half expected it to be close to the 2:1 wich it is. Not ideal but makes for a lot of fun on the street and the track. It would be interesting to test the 4cm vs the 6cm back to back and on a dyno.
Nah it ain't heat that done that. That was tuning gone wrong or a duff injector. Also remember most people think head warp and forget about the block. I had this issue in an old tired 7afe that kept blowing head gaskets even after a proper head skim. It turned out to be the block. Engines that take metal gaskets are more fussy when it comes to sealing perfectly.
I explained exactly this on TGTT forum a few years back. I am glad that you are an advocate of this :) Also remember that Nr3 runs the hottest because of the fire order of a 4 cylinder 4 stroke 1342
Hi Matt! Since its very hard to find plug and play harnesses for Starlets it would be great if you could give me some tips on how to set it up. i have no experience in wiring up an ecu but got some background knowledge in wiring. Thanks ! Keep doing Mad builds. Cheers!
Well I'm now retiring my 4efte and I'm currently rebuilding a 5efhe bone stock, I'm from Jamaica and the guy down here hurt their engine very frequently but what I've come to realize is that with after market pistons rods and bearings certain calculations have to be done as not all block mains are the same nor are the cylinders they all have different grades so just keep that into consideration
Hello mate I’m jsut wondering. Are these all 4efe or 4efte? Would it make a diffrance or js the issue still the same. I have an imported glanza under the impression insides are diffrent between the two engines
@@MattBerrymotorsport so you would recommend swapping the turbo out then? It so what for I wanna be at around 200 brake boost quite early woukd be nice
Yeah seen plenty of those, if you actually watched the video you would understand why these engines get so much hate, nothing wrong with them, just people trying to run big boost on small turbochargers.
@@MattBerrymotorsport you're perfectly right mate.... No to tell the truth i didn't watch it totally but i will do for sure to understand better your concern 🙏 many regards to you mate 😉
Exhaust back pressure is a big killer. Not many people check it or egt. High exhaust back pressure causes high egt, which causes everything to get much hotter, spark plugs, valves and even an mls gasket if slightly too small, the thin metal can become a hot spot. Measuring exhaust back pressure is cheap and simple, should always be done.
so what do you think on my gtx2860r gen 2 with tial .52 rear housing on a 5e .. i will be going g25-550 with .72 rear on the 5e later down the track but for my street car at the moment its the gen2 ..so will not be revved out all day everyday and propably limit it to 7300rpm and whatever boost its happy at probs 1.6 Bar
I have a fully forged 4efte with td04 turbo. Engine just covered 2000km after the rebuild and I am experiencing overheating (gauge goes up 3/4)after 4 or 5 pulls being 2nd gear and 3rd gear. After I stop giving it full throttle it goes back to the normal temperature. I dont have coolant consumption, it consumes coolant only when the temperature goes 3/4 (I believe it evaporates with the extra heat). Could it be that my fan isn’t strong enough? Thanks Matt
so I have a AWD glanza my set up is t3t4 turbo 63AR exhaust housing regular 4e engine bigger injectors car got tuned on 10psi boost but didn't make boost till 7000rpm did 142hp and 167 torque but upon driving away from the dyno shop car starts good and all said I said before picking up the car it sounds good but I took a pull to see when boost hit it starts about 6 gran when I slow the car down I start hearing knocking sounds and the car didn't want to go am not sure if it was built quality or bad oil or bad tune but its sound good and the Turner is a good Turner but am gonna build it again using a mechanic who has more experience with the 4e engine and give you updates as am done
not sure if this video applies to stock horsepower motors i have a completely stock 4efte with the factory ct9 at 150,000 km and beginning to see bearing flakes in oil... not sure what the cause could be but will find out what the head gasket looks like when i take it all apart... would you recommend 4age head bolts on a otherwise stock motor if it gets rebuilt?
@3:55 I noticed you have and oil filter adapter that offsets to the side. 2 questions 1. does is have provisions for oil lines and sensor 2. What's it called and where can I get one
I remember you mentioning this in your 5EFHE comparison vid. Hella good info to know since im currently working on a 5e high comp + TD04 street car and want it reliable. Do you think that a dished piston help in any way?
Cheers man!! High comp works fine as long as you have the octane in the fuel to keep it safe... I wouldnt be running 98 octane fuel on any higher than 11-1 compresion... im using 12-1 on the gt using e85 and it runs fantastic.
@@3nglehart I run a 5E-FHE so it runs higher compression from the factory (9.8:1). You could increase compression with a thinner head gasket or use higher compression pistons. If you have a 4EFE, you'll have to go aftermarket.
My engine is starting to knock, I replaced my bottom end bearings and the main bearings had no knock and drove for about 10-15 minutes starting to come again. It's on and off none on idle only on certain revs until you get higher it goes away. I'm running a TD04L Turbo. Anything you think it is?
When you damage rod bearings you will usually damage the rod bearing journal as well. It ends up being a slightly oval shape so new bearings will work for a short period but it will always eventually damage the bearings again and start knocking
PSI is not the same as air flow. Running a turbo designed to run at 14psi, at 24 psi is clearly going to lead to issues. Not only is the the turbo spinning faster than it should, its also not efficient. I don't see how these problems are related to the 4efte engines.
Exactly my point. These engines get a lot of negative feedback from people that try to run big boost on small turbos and wonder why the engines keep blowing up. Thanks for your comment dude!
Hey bro i own a toyota corolla year 2000 the engine i am runing is a 4efte with 650cc injection and a headgasket and coil from a nissan tb48 and gas pump 98oct i was pulling 22psi on a stock block it run pretty well only my rods break down when i tried more boost 28psi it die but there was no marks on my bearing i pulled on dyno 375hp and 413tro
Matt, I've seeing guy where I am running these engines without any issues at all, using regular bolts or ARP bolts depending on the amount of boost so maybe your block isn't level or the head but something isn't as level as it should be and that is why you're having that gasket problems. Next time check and see if any of the two has a warp.
All depends on how much power hes making too. Our temperature where we live is also very hot 35 degrees with 95% humidity... cold weather will help reduce detonaton...
Been running tdo4 on 4e and 5e and never had those issues for years and I use the stock ml gaskets.also have a 4efte running 270hp from 2011 until now with no issues with tdo4
Your supposed to get the head skimmed then match the right steel gasket for that I've had to do that twice not long after racing some local 70 something year old in his Austin Martin db9 😅😅
Nah we have made over 400hp with these engines without slimming the head or block. It’s the detonation on these engines that lifts the head and causes sealing issues
Subscribed, I’m new in to starlets, my dad passed away recently so I kept his car, enjoy it immensely but I drive evo’s and gtir’s so need a power upgrade, what would you recommend I do to get it running around 200hp, the thing already spins heaps
Hey welcome to the channel! I'm assuming it's already turbo? (Because it spins heaps) I've got heaps of videos on the channel that might point you in the right direction. Have a look at the Kam's boosted starlet playlist and start from there (how to turbo a starlet on a stock ecu)
I used the excerpt brass button clutch for up to 300 hp applications... Then after that I've been using the extreme single plate brass button clutch...
hello matt, Im new into the 4E/5E world, so tell me if Im wrong, if I run a stock 5efe with a ct9 (or you could also recommend) on low boost (like 5 or 7 psi) will I get the same backpressure problems stated on this video? thanks
nah that boost is pretty normal, just make sure your ignition timing is set correctly and with a decent ecu, you will be fine. The problem is when you try to run large boost pressures with a small frame turbo it creates a lot of back pressure=heat=engine detonation
@@MattBerrymotorsport say, which one would you prefer, a hybrid ct9 or a td04? (horsepower goal is like 130-ish, the engine is recently rebuilt) (also reliability would be a main concern) thanks
Standard setup is perfectly safe and fantastic at low to medium boost levels... its only when you really try to push higher boost and higher air temps it becomes dangerous
One factor I didnt talk about is our temperature where i live is mostly 35 degrees with 95% humidity. If i was racing the car in a colder climate, it would be a lot safer. Along with high boost creating more heat, my air temps are already quite high just because of out hot climate.
@@MattBerrymotorsport Major factor in your build consideration, the extreme climate of Australia is a challenge. In south Africa they have the same issues but with 5500 feet altitude too for those inland.
Hello Matt! Do you know, how much metal I can grind from the block and head from my n/a 4efe, to exclude valves and piston crash? Pistons are oem 4efe. The goal is to increase compression ratio to maximum values (perfectly 14:1). I have lpg project.
MAybe .5mm from the block and a mm or so from the head. Hardly worth it as youre lso degreasing the engine size...Just get a set of cams to make over 100HP.
@@MattBerrymotorsport thnks for your reply, unfortunately 1,5mm is a limit with oem pistons. I have liquid propane gas economical project, and main purpose is engine effiency increasing, secondary is power. Lpg is high octane value, so, 13-14:1 is the best compr. ratio for propane gas.
@@MattBerrymotorsport deadly gathering alot of information off your channel before I build forge 4efte for my first time and don't want it blowing with the cost of all the parts, td05 be the safest option at 300hp and them head studs , for the roads in Ireland cold weather 🌧
@@fila1445if you don't have hydraulic lifters and valves are made of a factory higher expanding steel, valve clearance needs to be set higher or exhaust valves will stay open a little causing them to burn out as they essentially have a jet of hot gas running by them and they also aren't dissipating heat into the seat.
Hey Matt, considering this video….from Garrett or BorgWarner EFR range of turbos, what would you recommend on 4EFTE for a street car between 200-300 hp?
Thank you Matt I have a 4EFTE in my Fiat X1/9 that blew once from preignition/detonation. The stock pistons were well hammered. I thought it was the fuel but having watched your video I remember seeing the same black marks on the head gasket. I'll be using those bolts soon as the next engine will be running higher boost. Thanks again
@@MattBerrymotorsport that’s what I was thinking...The info you shared in this video has made me a lot more confident in my twin-charge 5e idea. Gotta get back into it though. Excited to see more of your progress!
