I have done this very thing a number of times but it kept returning no matter what stuff I used. About 6 months ago I decided to try something a little more permanent and it seems to be working so well I decided to add a comment here. The spray lube fix works good and fast but trying my modification could be more permanent. It took me about 20 minutes to complete the fix. I removed the nut hold the shifter cable to the lever underneath the truck...it takes a 13mm wrench. Once removed, use a wire brush to remove the rust and corrosion buildup on both sides of the lever, from the nit, and from the shifter level connector. Then put a good coating of lithium grease on both sides of the connector, the steel lever, and the nut. Then reassemble (making sure the connector screw fits all the way through the square hole on the lever) and tighten. It's been 6 months so far without any sticking.
I think your problem is the neutral safety switch. With time it gets rusty and full of cra…Could be the reason of why it takes some force to move gear shift. It is on the other side of transmission.
My 2005 Tacoma did the same thing. It was the Neutral Safety Switch that's attached to the transmission. It needs to be lubricated as they get older or your cable will brake as mine did.
I Have the same problem if my truck has been sitting and it has rained. No issues if it's been sitting and it's been dry, which leads me to believe my issue is on the transmission end of the cable and rain water is getting down into that area.. I've noticed that if I sit there and just keep working the shifter back and forth through all the gears, it all starts working properly again. Thanks for the video. I plan to oil the cable and anything else I can get oil on down at the transmission. BTW, WD40 is not a long term lubricant as it will evaporate over time. Thanks!
Mine started throwing codes for this today. Lubed the linking and reset. Fingers crossed. According to tacomaworld forum. There is a plug behind the kick panel drivers side that can corrode and cause the code light going to go digging in there next if the code comes back
my 2009 taco is doing the same thing. That mechanism is bad for sticking up especially when it gets cold. I recommend using penetrating oil and graphite lubricant. I see a few people using grease and thru my experience i think that eventually compounds the problem once the dirt gets in. ive had to periodically lube up this mechanism and work the shifter from park to low a few times to let it loosen up. seems to be worse if the truck is left to sit for a few days. In my case the problem is definitely the in shifter mechanism in the cab and not at the transmission linkage, because once the shifter mechanism is lubed up it moves so nice! very frustrating when its stuck!
Hey Sandy, I had the same problem and use Seafoam deep creep to lube the cable and where the cable attaches to the transmission shifter. After 5 minutes the shifting was back to normal.
Same problem on RAV4. Just shot wd40 in the shifting plastic. Apparently the wife and kids spilled soda in it and created a sticky mess. Not able to tell from looking at it, but it turned out to be the problem.
Love it! I wonder if the cable itself is binding? Perhaps try lubing up the actual linkage on the transmission where the cable connects. This might help ease off the strain on the cable and allow it to slide easier..try using some good synthetic lubricant :)
My 05 4runner has similar issue. Shifter is so hard to shift as I let the truck sit for long periods, sometime I put so much pressure the cable pops off on the console and I have to tear it apart to re-attach. I had a shop lube the crap out of the PRNDL switch on driver side and it was smooth again. Now after letting the truck sit for the summer, it is soo stiff I cant even get it out of park. Should I focus on just the drivers side switch on the tranny, or should I also be lubricating the passenger side neutral switch as well ? I think I should replace both, this is happening too frequently now.
Did this ever solve the problem. Had the same issue on a 2009 Corolla. It kind of fixed its self after some force full shifts. One month later the trans went. I really think the shifting problem was in the trans.
WD40 is a great product - I use it all the time for a wide variety of purposes. In this case however, considering the amount of accumulated material in the consul, I would have started with graphite. The WD40 will remain oily and dirt will stick to it. Graphite dries and the dirt won't stick. I guess they don't have vehicle safety checks where you live. Michael from Alberta
Thanks for the tip. I’m not familiar with graphite. Is that the name of the product? They have safety checks when you transfer ownership of vehicles in Ontario. Is it different in Alberta?
@@sawingwithsandy Graphite is a 'type of product' - not a brand name. There are several manufacturers. It basically is ground up pencil lead. You can get it at any hardware store in the area that cuts keys. It is a favourite with locksmiths because it lubricates the lock but the lubricant is dry and does not attract dirt also the lubricant does not 'stiffen up' in cold weather. You can also find it a bicycle shops to use on bicycle chains. Years ago Alberta had annual safety checks but they stopped them. There is talk that they might bring them back. Michael from Alberta
I need help, my car was running good then one moment I turn it on and the abs brake battery and slip light came on and I have no acceleration no power windows no headlights or hazard lights, ac works, reverse lights work, I replaced alternator, battery and throttle body and I need help