Sorry guys. . .Somebody keeps reporting this video as inappropriate. So that is why I keep trying to upload this video. Please stop flagging my videos! There is nothing inappropriate about them. No sexual stuff with car parts here!
Thank you sooooooo much, saved me $2300, really appreciate you. One thing, in order to get the rod into 2wd position - all the way in as you show in another video, I had to put the tranny in neutral. Thanks again.
I am currently dealing with my 2005 Tacoma stuck in 4hi. I have tested the ADD actuator and that seems to be functioning. Thanks for posting this video because I now need to check out the transfer case actuator.
Mine issue was a bunch of the add actuators on eBay and Amazon either are not the same pinout or are just junk- you can run them but it doesn't get the right signal back to the ecu saying it's at the endpoint stop. I had two and nether worked. Replace add actuator with oem and it worked
Vt_802 I’m planning to buy a 99 4runner that 4wd system is stuck in 4HI. I been doing research and looks like actuators are a common problem with this 3rd gens 4runners
Thank you so much for this video! I just replaced my transfer case actuator motor using the procedures you described in the video and it is working perfectly! My question is: When i pulled the triangular cover and removed the gear- oil spilled out as it did in your video. Was I supposed to add gear oil or some lubricant before i buttoned up the triangular cover on the new actuator motor? Thank you
I have a leak from the O ring seal the one on the Actuator , sequoia 2004 it's the same Actuator , but I can't find the part number of the O ring seal anywhere , any help on that ?
I'm not a mechanic but want to fix my truck. 2004 Tundra 4wd light blinking. Isn't there actuator on rear diff & one on the TC? How do I know which one not working? I also read someone said it could be Indicator switch on top of TC that is bad. I just don't want to start replacing a bunch of things. If it's actuator on front TC, my dealer wants over 1000 bucks for part! That's crazy. Also, does dealer have to do something with a computer reset on the truck after making repair or can I do this without that? I had a bad rear differential & had it replaced few months back. I don't know if that could have messed up my 4wd. Help please! Thx for your videos!
I just replaced the actuator but now when I start the truck my 4lo light beeps and blinks and I can’t get my 4hi or 4lo to work. And yes I did make sure I had the t-case in 2wd when I reinstalled the actuator. Could wheel speed sensors affect the 4x4?
Hello. Well it’s looks like my actuator has gone bad today. I tried putting my 2008 tundra 5.7 into 4 wheel drive and I didn’t hear the normal ticking sound when engaging. 4 hi is now blinking permanently. The truck is currently stuck in 2 wheel drive. I tried disconnecting the battery to reset things. It didn’t work. I took a peek and noticed oil fluid all over the actuator and all around. And my breather hose had cracking. I cut off the cracking part of breather tube and reassembled with good tubing. It did not fix the issue. What do you think is causing the oil leak? What other trouble shooting can I do? I can buy the entire part at O’Rileys if needed. Thanks for this video!
I need a vedio of Toyota Surf 4runner 4th generation 2700 cc transfer case actuator timing. My actuator has two sets of motors and gears one upon the other. Plz help me to properly time it with out removing transfer case. When the lower is adjusted the second rod create hindrance for fitting the lower cover which has decoder. Plz help
Having a problem with a 2006 Tacoma. Stuck in 4-low. Front actuator was taken apart and checked and works fine. TC actuator was removed and replaced but still won’t work. How do I get that rod back in to reset or to tell the truck it’s back in 2? Thanks
Finished changing my actuator. Project was fairly easy and I did not run into any problems. However, my dash and 4hi button are both blinking as if it can not engage and in fact it is NOT engaging . *the blinker acted normal before even though it didn't engage. Can anyone enlighten me on what I may have done wrong? The wire clips seem to have snapped right in..........
Did you push the actuator rod into neutral before installing the actuator motor? If you haven't, that maybe the reason. I have a video on how to do so.
@@theotherguy3083 Do I push it in or pull it out. I think this maybe the problem. I've seen someone say push it all the way in for 2 wheel drive and another poster said to pull it out for 2 wheel drive position. Thank you.
@@nohyphens push it in until you get to neutral and then install your actuator motor. See video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-rgUkydSCcHI.html
Thank you for this video! When I took my cover off to clean the contacts inside it, the big gear that the worm drive turns came out as well. Is there a way to figure out how it needs to line up to go back in the housing so the contacts will line up correctly and indicate what gear it is in?
Asking for a friend 😞 haha really though did the same thing, I’m thinking if we can get the gear out of the top then we can get it back together, out to the driveway I go!
@@coreeman101 This guy links this video and explains it. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-_retFUemr_g.html I can't post a picture. But there's a gap in the outside rail and a gap on inside of the plastic lid. On the gear, there's three pins that ride on those rails. When that outside pin would be on the blank plastic part instead of the metal rail - then you are in 2H. Sorry, a picture's worth 1,000 words.
Great Video. Liked and Subscribed. Will this tutorial work for a 2000 SR5 Tundra? I wasn't sure if the actuator was inside the transfer case for this model?
G, I wish my 2000 tundra with 250,000 miles was that clean LOL! What year is your tundra? I just broke the first bolt head off on the actuator cover itself… Guess I'll retry replacing the entire motor assembly. Some folks say you have to get the actuator motor with the fork and take the transfer case apart - if yours is a 2000-2005, looks like I've got an easier way to go. there is the small triangular cover at the top of the assembly that I will remove if possible and see if the gear comes out. At any rate, thank you, most kindly and very, very much, from an old old Dash Toyota owner!
So if you're replacing the actuator with a new one, do you undo the screws on that side plate, remove gear, then slide new one on, install gear, then cover, then bolts that hold actuator on? In this view/angle it looks like the gear is on the 6 o'clock or bottom position?
Another video I saw shows to tighten the actuator onto the transfer case then put the small gear in. If you put it in first, there is a tiny bit of space that is between actuator and TC and as you tighten actuator bolts the small gear will move slightly and bind on the shaft
I agree with "helpful". But beware, in the video you say "be sure to start off in 2HI"....BUT, if you end up buying a new (rear, as shown) actuator, it will most likely come timed to 4HI, as the OEM part does, so do consider doing this starting from 4HI if you can, especially if you're attempting a new actuator. TMI ? : My 2006/gen2 Tacoma, had a "gets stuck in 4Low" problem (so I believe my front actuator is fine, cuz mine was still working well between 2H -> 4H and 4H -> 2H.) So I seemed ripe for a new actuator, so I risked ordering an aftermarket $250 instead of the $1300 OEM. Side note, retrying to get out of 4L seemed to work better after turning key off and on again, and/or jacking up front or all wheels. Anyways, I bought a 3rdparty actuator with no instructions included, then removed my original actuator thusly and stupidly: due to the small metal gear being stuck on its splined shaft too hard for my skinny right angle pliers to be able to pull off, I did the dumb/frustrated thing and removed the cover+motor, (3 10mm bolts plus connectors+hose)... which leaves the big-gear+spring+actuator-base in place but the big-gear and its shaft CAN slide out if pulled (hope you don't have to, but to pull my small gear, I had to? my left hand grabbing the big gear and shaft to wiggle, my right hand on the right-angle pliers, I wiggled, too tight still, then I pulled down/out on the big plastic gear, kind of like tapping the shaft+large-gear out of the small gear with a driver/pin. Got my small gear off that way, but messed up my timing, ouch, I should have tried to mark its position with a sharpie somehow. On my new actuator fresh out of the box, I did one smart thing before removing the rod: I marked, with elec tape at the point where the rod disappears into the actuator. OEM its set for 4HI (Rod is 12 inches total. You can tell by the length/depth of the insertion of the rod within, vs length sticking out/visible. with it new/set in 4HI.... the tooth end has 4 + 1/4" inserted, and 7 + 3/4" is sticking out of actuator: the latter going into transfer case. These measurements only useful/visible inspecting new actuator and rod. I'm trying to retime my old one because I started in 2H, then realized I want to get to and "start" w 4H , put new actuator in withOUT removing the cover and messing up timing. To do that I'll try the advice found in a comment (thanks, rcw3586) below DirtBikes_MathGarden post saying : "To check the position of the actuator's rotor use an ohmmeter to measure continuity at the 6 pin connector. Pin 1 is closest to the motor., Pins 1 and 2 connect to the motor. Pins 3 - 6 connect to the circuit tracks. When in 2H only pins 4 and 5 connect. When in 4H only 4 and 6 connect. When in 4L only 3 and 4 connect. If any other pins connect it is between positions." But to try various insertions/gear-positions, with cover+motor upside down to hold the big gear, you have to lift the big gear up, turn/tweak a bit, drop it back down mating with motor screw teeth, then try the ohm meter...i.e. you cannot simply turn the gear while watching the meter. Still wondering how exact the placement must be, how many big-gear small-teeth "off" you can afford to miss by. Near 2H, there are spots where 4+5 AND 4+6 have continuity and you don't want that! I'm still scared, because my original actuator looks clean and I don't see the problem, but I'm marching on to reposition from 2H to 4H with original actuator, then install new actuator from 4H.
My old one still works if I peck on the stuck brushes. My new actuator i think came set to 4lo. Is that possible? So can I peck on my old one and get my truck in 4lo then install the new one?
A NEW (rear) actuator set to 4LO sounds like the least likely possibility. Aftermarket replacement actuators...I tried one (the rear one), got stuck, had to back out, put my original back in, paid my Toyota dealer $4k to replace BOTH actuators. The dealer replacement procedure does not use the trick shown here of pulling that small gear out (thus freeing the long engagement rod from the actuator) so the actuator can be removed without dropping the transfer case and opening up the case then they can replace the new rear actuator with its new rod (not mess with the actuator timing...forget what I learned about doing this trick/myself: should truck be in 4HI, or 2HI, but I don't think 4LO is a preset position for a new actuator! I had all 4 wheels off the ground, observing if the front actuator (less problematic I think, and much different) was grabbing the front driveshaft... It all defied my ability in the end. I have about 10-15k of parts+work into my 2006 Tacoma that I got (used w a new frame) for 16k in 2015 w 90k miles. Now giving it an easier life at 175k, I bought a new Honda 2wd HR-V to get 33-34mpg hiway and give my 20-21mpg 4cyl Tacoma a break from "long" (2hr) hiway trips.
So if that shaft is locked in place like you say it is, how are you able to pull it in and out in other videos? I’m stuck in 4HI and just want mine to go in but it’s stuck I can’t hit it in. What is stopping it? Also, maybe more importantly, how is the actuator able to push the rod in and out if the shaft is locked in place from inside the transfer case? Do you see what I’m saying? Why does the actuator work in moving that rod but my mallet doesn’t?
I have a 2001 Hilux LN167 and when I put it in 4x4 with the diff locks on it jumps out back to 2H when I set off. 4x4 Low works fine. It does not jump out of 4H when the diff locks are off. Any idea what might be happening? What do I need to look at?
So i have an issue with my 2001 toyota 4runner some times it engages and disengage fine but some time it doesnt disengage what can it be i switched the sensor on this actuator already i took the front actuator out n test it n it works but after putting it back in it would work at times n not work at times?
How do u replaced the shaft? I have the same issue with the 4hi or lo not engaging. Have toyota diagnosis and they said need to replace the actuator assembly. Their quote me @ 3200$ + taxes. Can't afford it and decided to replace myself. Well, the new part comes with the shaft. Can I just use my old shaft? Any idea will be appreciated.
Hey another issue I recently had on my '05 tundra limited was I have an engine light came on and had my OBDII reader read. Got a P2716 code( Pressure Control Selonoid 'D' electrical) hadn't take to dealer for diagnoses, but I saw some RU-vid vdo saying that it was the "SLT" selonoid. I took off four long selonoids under the transmission and tested by applying power to and they all clicked seems to work find. The engine light CANNOT be erased/turned off by the code reader. The truck will drive normal but shift hard(jerking) when put in R. Any idea? My next step is to bring to the dealer where I just gonna get hit hard again. Thanks
@@cnclathe3606 so your model is different from mine. Regarding the actuator out put shaft, it can only be replaced by dissembling the Tcase. That means removing the TC from the Tranny and then cracking it open. Regarding the SLT sensor, have you change the Tranny Filter, and replace all the fluid? If the sensor is working chances are, something maybe causing it to malfunction along with your 4x4 actuator.
Hey brother, I bought a brand new oem 4x4 actuator from Toyota and I took the little shaft off and installed onto my old actuator shaft. The 4wd doesn’t work after installing the new actuator body onto the old shaft. Does it really required to replace the the little shaft too? The old actuator shaft was not broken. I believe it should work right? Please share your experiences. Thanks
Took mine off had water in it. 4x4 was working just my light was staying on blinking sometimes when I wasn’t in 4hi/lo hence why I took it apart. Put it back together reinstall it and now I’m stuck in 4lo and just blinks and beeps. Any suggestions? Need new actuator or just drive it till hopefully it pops out?
So it looks like your transfer case actuator rod is stuck on 4 lo. You need to physically push it to neutral when installing your actuator back onto the TC. You need to push the rod into the TC. It will go in once, that will go back to 4hi. Push or tap it in the second time deeper into the TC and it will be neutral position. Then you can install your actuator.
The Other Guy thank you for the quick response I fussed with it a few more times and got it. I was worried my truck was gonna be outta commission for awhile and had to buy another transfer case. Ya the rod was stuck out to far.
Hey man I have a question, so on my 2002 Tacoma I have any issue where my 4wd light just stays on, whenever I press my 4wd button on my push button transfercase I hear my solenoids clicking but I don’t hear my front or rear actuators doing anything at all and also when I press my 4wd button I can see the light dim just a little bit, but then I hear a solenoid click and it just turns bright again, I feel like the front ADD actuator is stuck engaged which is leaving the 4wd light on and confusing the 4wd computer into not letting me go into 4wd
What you need to do is find a level area. Jack the truck up on all four with all four wheels free spinning. Once you determined it to be safe, put it in drive. If the TC actuator is stuck on 4x4 and the front ADD actuator isn't working, you should see the front driver side spinning along with the rear wheel drive. If the driver side isn't spinning, check the front drive shaft to see if it is spinning. If it is, the TC actuator is locked in 4x4. I would remove the TC actuator to check for water damage. After that I'd check for water damage in the front actuator.
Sure wished I found this video earlier, I had this same issue with my 4runner that has the same actuator. Is there an specific position on which the little gear must be placed? I replaced the actuator with a used working one . The thing is I now have 4wd it engages beautifully 4hi clack, Neutral 4lo clack BUT disengaging is a whole other story. Neutral 4lo disengages but, when going in Drive it makes the horrible grinding sound like when you don't fully stop. Its like it can't engage 4hi properly so I just go back to 2wd and the noise stops.
The reason why there is that clack and grinding is that there is a possibility that your actuator is misaligned with the actuator rod. You may want to check for alignment issue.
@@theotherguy3083 So i'll have to check the position of the small gear on the actuator rod? I made sure I was on 2wd before placing the actuator. Thanks btw.
@@eugeniaortega9782 no. Sometime the mounting area where the actuator is mounted on get warped. That area on mine was cracked and so when I mounted mine on, due to the warpage, it bind with the rod as it actuates. Check for fitment and shim with thin metal strips at a time for proper fitment.
Question for you first off thank you posting the videos you do. My transfer case actuator is bad and won’t engage. I live in pa and the frame will not pass inspection due to rust so I’m looking for it to get me through the next 2 months without putting more money in it. The question I have is if I remove the actuator motor is it hard to pull the shaft out? I’m talking by hand. Thank you for your time and the help!!
If I move it towards the rear will that engage 4wd? Sorry for the questions. I was watching your video and it almost seemed like if the actuator was not working you can pull it to engage the 4wd instead of using the gear.
Need some help with my 07 Tacoma. It will go into 4high but will not engage 4low. I removed the actuator and everything looks correct. Can it be an electrical issue?
Be sure the transmission is in Neutral, vehicle is on a flat surface when attempting to shift into 4 LO. If that doesn’t help, gently shift between forward and reverse while letting it move an inch or three forward reverse. If this doesn’t help, check the owner’s manual 😉 Thanks TOG! Great video!
Want to buy a 2003 Toyota tundra 4x4 with 207.214 miles for 6k it is worth it????? I drove it runs good trassmision shift good but when I pushed the 4H button the green light start blinking on the button is something wrong with it ???
If it is blinking it means the 4x4 actuator isn't engaging. Check front add actuator and TC actuator. Check for proper connection or lose harness. Btw, don't buy it for 6g if 4x4 isnt working.
@@theotherguy3083 I don't hear it try to work at all are u sure it's not the 4x4 control module behind right kick panel..seems that it's not getting power...and front driveshaft turns free seems to be in neutral..
@@theotherguy3083 no I never moved the rod at all...but when I push the button to engage or disengage 4x4 I don't hear the actuator on transfer case or front differential make any noise..I'm not suck in 4x4 I can't get it to go into 4x4...front driveshaft if not locked in..with tires on ground I can turn front driveshaft...when I try to push button on dash to engage lights just flash and nothing at all happens with actuator no noise at all....
hello! would this be for 2002 tundra part number 36410-34015? Just trying to make sure because the replacement seems simple and straightforward but they want to charge me so much to replace it thank you!
Help me with this problem bro. My Tacoma ‘06 4wd is stuck in 4LO after removing and reinstalling the actuator connected to the front differential. I wanted to disassemble the transfer case actuator but you said that it need to be in Park not 4wd. Will it give me a problem if I take it off when it is stuck in 4LO? And is it hard to push that rod back to neutral?
When removing the actuator make sure your tranny is in park and jacked up on all 4 wheels so they are free spinning if you out it on Nuetral. The remove the actuator as I showed it here. Once the actuator is removed tap the actuator rod in to nuetral position and then reinstall the actuator. You may want to check the actuator to make sure it is functioning properly and no water is inside. To make the TC go back to nuetral follow this video. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-rgUkydSCcHI.html
@flav you might want to look at the other video by The Other Guy. It helped me a lot uninstalling and reinstalling the transfer case actuator. Mine came off easily (Tacoma 06) might be different on tundra.
Hi there! Question had to take my tc actuator apart to clean it and get the dirt out. Do I need to top up gear oil under the triangle plate where the sprocket is or does that get oil from the tci itself? My sprocket with the contacts came out when I went to reinstall the plastic hosing with contacts so all the oil in there drained. So had to pop that plate off to get it all back together. Shifting into 4x4 now so happy about that! Thanks for the video helped!
@@theotherguy3083 okay so since I took both sides of the actuator apart it drained all the oil in it. So I would need to top it up? I checked my tc oil level before and after I took it off and was good both times. Im just unsure if theres a oil feed from the tc to the actuator
@@PYKER3HAZRECON if you look at the actuator rod and the hole, there are no seal. So when the gear in the tranny starts to turn, oil gets sling up onto the actuator rod and down to the actuator. That's all. You dont have to prelube the actuator unit at all. Just bolt everything back on and you are ok. Now, if you have removed the actuator cover and tore it down, you'll need to use special grease to lube those components up before reinstalling it to the TC.
@@theotherguy3083 perfect. Yes I did use the proper lubes in the housing. I just didn't actually take it off enough to see the fork and inside. Just came to me late last night that maybe that triangle piece was a self sealed unit and got nervous haha Thanks for your help and videos! Much appreciated! 🤙
