Toyota Tundra Alternator Replacement 

Awesome to hear! Glad it was helpful! :)

KTMAdventure Rider That’s what I was told by the dealership today to do my alternator... 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽 Hell no I said and now I’m about to do the job today lolol... smart thinking bro...

$700 in Cincinnati

I know this is a older video, but the dealer just quoted me $1900 for a battery and alternator on my 12

You’re absolutely right Ray. I work on them and that is the way I do it.

Did you still have to remove the power steering pump?

@@paxster76 You have to on the 5.7. I mean remove the bolts and move it out of the way

Happy we could help!

Glad we could help!!

How many miles on your 2013 mine has 38000 and there saying mine is bad

@@groverhammonds219 Mine went out yesterday at 108,000 miles

@@groverhammonds219 2007 Tundra with 95000 and the factory alt just failed..

Yes sell me your tundra for cheap ill replace that alternator lol

Geez. Whiny.

good luck! haha

David of the Meadow thanks so much! I appreciate your support and hope you can get your project car up and running soon! :)

My Toyota dealership asking $865 for alternator and labor half of that is labor

Haha you got this!

What alternator brand? Part number?

Travis Teague yay that's awesome to hear!!

Awesome so glad it helped!

@@MicheleAbbate Did you get your idle issue fixed I'm running into that now I hear there is a procedure you have to do for it to relearn the idle because it does not save the memory from replacing the battery

@@ivanramey5157 it just took a few cycles and some driving. It will relearn itself. Give it a couple days

Got a friend with triple A "AAA"? Ask them to call for that tow. I believe you get 4 tows per year for your membership.

How the fuck do you get O-Rylies from O'Reilly?

Yes a part number would be great mine won't come out.

Any luck?

Voltage is 12 on all choices. Amperes output is the question.

IF you have the 5.7L with FWD like my Platinum... they really crammed it in there! 🧐 Not much room for large hands I have found! 🧐

Even the dealers sell you the refurbished ones so what does it matter in the end. Still a risk.

@@vlsr71 Very true!

so essentially its in limp mode for those first 20 miles

Our buddy D'Angelo, but he works at the dealer

@@MicheleAbbate thanks guys’ this video helped 🤙🏼

Not so. You can get a much higher Amp rated alternator for your Tundra but you also need to increase some of your wiring size or risk a possible future electrical fire.

But my parents bought a 2011 5.7 L Toyota tundra and what you described is what's happening which I was pretty sure it was an alternator with the power issue. The battery is new and so are the battery clamps, the factory ones when I took them off they crumbled to dust so I put new better ones on

Takes like 6 minutes on an 88 obs silverado🤘

I'm in New England attempting this now on a 2011 5.7. I'm at the "soak the shit out of every nut and bolt" phase and will take your advice of draining the radiator and removing the shroud and hoses. There's just no room in there. I just barely started rounding off the 12 o'clock position power steering pump bolt. That's when I called it, soaked everything and began re-evaluating. Really hoping I can get that top power steering bolt out without breaking it or rounding it completely. Everybody working on their vehicles in those dry, arid states don't know our pain!

@@SD-unlimited Jesus, don't round it off lol. Just be patient and let the penetrating oil do it's thing, and if it feels like it's gonna break it probably is so back off a bit. Just apply steady pressure. It might creak and pop but it will eventually come out. I was rushing and paid the consequences (broke the bolt). Removing everything is the hardest part of it. Like I said - if you can afford it, replace any components you can while you have it apart or you might be reliving this one day. Good luck!

@@paxster76 It's done. Had about 6 hours into it but it was stupid stuff affecting me like one of the bushings was rust-fused to the old alternator. Took heat, PB Blaster, drifts, a hammer, more heat, etc to get that out. I also did my tensioner, idler and belt while in there. With the fan, shroud and lower radiator hose removed, there's plenty of room to work. Anyone who's not in a dry, arid state shouldn't even bother trying to take it out the side. Not going to happen with any amount of rust present. If I had to do it again it should easily be half the amount of time or less. Draining the radiator took about 20 minutes by itself. Now knowing where, what and how to take everything off, it wouldn't be as horrible a job. As you mentioned, ANYONE in a rust belt state, don't even bother trying to only go through the wheel well. You need access from the wheel well but opening up the front helps so much. Drain the radiator, take the fan and shroud off and give yourself as much room as possible. The hard lines are still a pain to work around but it can be done. There are two bolts/brackets holding them in place - one on the alternator, one back further on the transmission pan. Use 6 point sockets/wrenches when you can. Use lots of penetrating oil. Wire wheel all the hardware and use grease or anti-seize when reinstalling to make your life, or the next guys life easier when it needs to be done again. Thanks @paxster76 for the advice on this. I don't think I would've been able to do it without reading your comment here. Much appreciated!

@@SD-unlimited Really glad I could help out! Yes the bushing didn't come with my new alternator so I had to lube, soak and carefully tap the old one out to reuse. They're impossible to find. And just so everyone knows, the power steering bolt I broke cost me $18 at the dealer (wtf). Of course it's an odd ball size so you can't just go to the hardware store to replace it. This is definitely one of those jobs where you feel like your truck is fighting you every step!

Do you have 4x4 and a 5.7L v8? Just bought a 320 amp high output alternator for an audio system and I have to swap them out.

Dreamer760 neither a 4x4 or 5.7 I have the smaller motor 4.6 or 4.7 with the tow package

Did you unbolt the sway bar? And about how long did it take?

Yeah bud this is the 4x4 5.7L you cant just pull it out from the bottom on this 5.7 L. I have been fighting this pos for about 5 hours so i decided to watch a video to see if there is an easier way and this video is by far the most efficient way ive seen

Any luck?

Pep Boys told me, $500, several small shops told me $600 - $800. Cost me elbow grease, tired fingers, neck cramps, but used the money I saved for a shrimp dinner. Good luck.