I really feel you men. I have toyota hilux lifted 3 inches and fitting a 285/75/r17 is a struggle. So for previous expirience that I had with other trucks, i preffer go little bit smaller with the tyre and not having to chop anything because chopping and cutting is good for not rubbing in street use but when you go off road is another story. Wrapping up better go with aftermarket bull bar or smaller tyre.
a easy way to fix the fog light covers is to unbolt them and push the bottom portion of the cover into the housing. Just heat it and bend it upwards into the lower bumper caps and screw back in the two small 10mm bolts. That's what I did on my tundra as I plan on running 35s in the future but what you did works as well. Great looking truck and setup. Love the clean look and color combo.
Thanks Jason! I heated and pushed in the plastic as far as it will go. It is rubbing on the bumper corner lower mounting ear behind plastic that is metal. One last attempt before spacing the bumper!
@@RoadPatina I forget who I is but a few companies make nicer bumper spacer brackets or you could use some metal washers from your local hardware store. Either way love the truck. Excited to see more content
@@RoadPatina I’m already on SPC UCAs. Hate to run a spacer on brand new wheels. Method only offers 0 or +35 in a 17” wheel, may have to go with 18” if I want that perfect +25
I got 2013 tundra and i got 20” tuff black and gold wheel seat on a 295-60-20(34” tires falken wildpeak) stock suspension and 2.5 in level kit in the the front and it look so good. And by the way i dont have any weird look. All 4 wheels stick out like 2in
Would love to know how it behaves at highway speed, or like you said under full articulation. Also would be helpful if you gave us a rundown on the suspension gear you're running.
@ 8:05 I discuss the suspension a bit. It performs great on highway! Slightly firmer than stock but you loose the wallowy floating feeling and less diving under breaking. King remote resivoir coilovers with total chaos uca. King rear shocks on stock leafs and shackles!
i have similar setup with 2.5 lift in the front and Icon Rebound 17" wheels with +25 offset. no rub at normal psi. only rubs at full lock at or below 20psi. No BMC on mine either
any panhard bar set up will be offset a bit because you have to compensate for the travel. If it's centered in a neutral stance then flexed it would be too far the other way.
I think the reason it looks flush on the rear of one side is because these truck have what they call the toyota lean on driver side. I think it might be because of the gas tank being on the driver side.
I was wondering what the grey/bronze combo would look like. I have a 4wd double cab same color / went with the new Method 705 in matte black / I kinda wish I'd gone with the platinum since black wheels are over done these days and that series is not available in bronze. The 705 also have the +25 which is what sold me over the top and I had to have them. I'm about to do a 3.5 Ironman 4x4 lift, so it looks like I'll be able to fit 35's......your truck looks perfect man. It really is a challenge to get it "just right" and you nailed it!
Thanks man! Well, if you got the rims you like and the right offset I think your good to roll! Later, if you really get bored or sick of the black, paint them. I bet they will grow on you more and more. Who cares what everyone else is running! True 35’s are close to the cab mount and bumper no mater what you do. Some run the metric size that is about a 34” tire with better clearance. 285/75-18 I think? If I did more off-roading, I would probably trim the bumper or maybe run 34s. FWIW.
Method has the 706 on sale for 246. I went to Discount Tire to see if they could get them and save me 100 on shipping and they offered them for 236.00 and no fee for install/balance - The 706 have a +35 offset so they will tuck in another 1/2" compared to the +25.@@RoadPatina
I didn't know about that rear axle thing ...I'll have to check mine and see if I can notice any difference. I like your setup...I have 285/75/R18 Duratracs(true 35 inch tall tire but narrower) on my stock TRD PRO rims & it only slightly rubs the front sway bar at full lock. I hardly ever turn full lock so doesn't bother me too much now.
@@RoadPatina yes it would but I'm against spacers. If only the trd pro rims were a positive 50 offset instead of a positive 60 then I'm sure it wouldn't rub at all
@Dale Phillips watching this a yr later, I've been looking for spacing on 285/75/r18s. I'm only lifting 2 or 2.5 in the front and would like it to stuff up nicely
Line up your bed that what I have to do, unscrew the bed with torxbit! Get a big level, put next to tire from ground up get tape measure and measure from level to bed and see which way you need push bed. The. When you happy tight torx screws back.
The only thing you can do about the axle is cut and center the mounts. The axle definitely doesn’t twist in that direction or anything. Who knows why the axle is offset, but Toyota engineers do know what they are doing
I'm running the same Methods in a 17 with a neutral offset and they poke out about the same as yours if not, slightly more. However I have a '13 Ford F-150
@@RoadPatina they sure do! I really like the bead grip on the wheels, it helps out so much when driving on the dunes. P.S. your Tundra is such a nice looking truck! Absolutely love the color combo
@@RoadPatina Awesome! Thank you for the info. Hope you don't mind, but I'm planning to copy everything you've done (it'll be on a Super White Tundra, so not a total copycat). This is exactly what I have been looking for but I wasn't sure about the re-gearing.
@@jgbecker24 glad to help! I don’t mine and actually encourage it. Took a while to get here and love how it turned out. Just need to work on the front bumper rub and that’s it. Or just send it and go long travel 😮
I know this video is a little old but do you know what your caster numbers were after alignment? I have same wheels in black but 18" on 35's as well with King 2.5 remote adjusters. I have the bumper spacer already in but it does rub on the cab mount. Need to move the wheel forward..
Yes, if your bumper is spaced have them move wheel forward (caster) away from cab mount. I don’t recall my specs, sorry. Actually need to have it realigned soon!
@@RoadPatina the front to back movement you get when adjusting caster is only a byproduct of changing the caster. Caster is actually the rotation of the steering knuckle, and having too much or too little caster angle determines how your vehicle handles, particularly bump steer. Positive caster will keep the vehicle from "wandering", or excessive bump steer, while driving straight, and the more positive caster you have, the further forward in the wheel well your tire will sit, although it's not a huge difference. Negative caster will move your wheel towards the rear of the opening slightly, but can lead to a truck that doesn't have proper straight-line stability. Caster is measured by the position of the lower ball joint in relation to the upper ball joint.
Great video, love the way it looks! I want to do the exact same thing to my Tundra. Wanted to ask you, I'm actually pretty curious as to do you have a lift kit on your truck? Is it a 2x4 or 4x4? My Tundra is a TSS (SR5) 2 Wheel Drive. Did you lose many mpg's?
Thanks! It’s 2wd and running king coilovers and total chaos uca. I recently spaced the front bumper about a half inch to alleviate most of the rubbing. True 35x12 are not exactly easy to clear!
The king coilovers raise it about 2.5 inches over stock. The total chaos upper control arms keep the geometry inline, unlike using stock upper control arms and lifting the truck!
I have 35s on my 2015 tundra and when I either floor it or whilst towing a trailer and it downshifts, I lose power and a traction control light comes on on the dashboard. Has this happened to you?
What I meant was no 35s without bmc and bumper cut or afternarket. I have 12.5.s. It looks like you have 10s. Either way my tires were almost 2g for4. Don't make the mistake I did and rip lugs off of them. Make sure ur suspension travels
Good question! The King coilovers come set from King at about 2.25-2.5 inches. You can crank them up a little but I don’t recommend it, too much preload on the spring. Some people run a small spacer on top of the Kings for a bit more lift. The rear Kings are just shocks and there is no lift. Stock leaf springs and hangers.
@@RoadPatina Thanks for the quick reply. I plan to go Bilstein 6112s in front and 5100s in the rear. I will have a canopy though so it will be interesting to see if I need more height in the back so I'm not nose up. I really like the look of your wheels and tires. I'll be doing something real similar.
@@jeffreysantos9070 I've had 5100s on my 2002 Tundra. While not a direct comparison the 6112s in the front feel a little more plush. I went with with the 1.9" setting and CB shims to provide ~ 2.9" lift in the front while not completely preloading the springs. I also have +2 CB shackles for 1.25" lift in the rear. Sits almost perfectly level with a canopy.
@@RoadPatina Fix with a 1" spacer on the left rear. my 2014 has this exact same issue. I was able to jog the rear axle half an inch to the R by loosening the u bolts and using a floor jack to gently shove it while tightening the bolts. Just need a half inch spacer now on the L. Dumb design flaw for sure.
Stock rims with 6in lift will look like you skipped leg day. They really limit tire size you can run. Stock offset is high. Wheels with 0mm to +25mm is a good start.
@@matthewbarber3153 that will be tight. Check on Tundras dot com. They have all the info... May be worth going P metric and stepping down a tad from a 35
I’ll be most worried about the ratio inside the dif . . . I’ll would change it as soon as I could before jumping anything bigger than factory specs . . .
