Check out the Corolla XRS, they made a high power model with a 6 spd transmission. Really quick. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-YpSbe5HY1Lg.html I first saw it on Scotty's YT here ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-1_pugaNOnsw.html
I just did the timing belt, water pump, tune up, brakes, etc. On my father in laws 2001 tundra. Everything was original, including the brakes. Toyota makes amazing vehicles that can take abuse and keep going.
@@jamescalifornia2964 I was quotes $3k+ by the dealership. It took me two days, because I had never worked on a Toyota before. It was about an 8 out of 10 on difficulty. Worth it though.
My 2000 Tundra is older but she has always gotten the job done. Bought her new, and have endeavored to keep her that way. Thanks for highlighting her inner beauty.
My friend Peter, it is so refreshing to watch a simple and mundane service be properly and professionally executed. It is critically important to follow the OEM’s parts and specifications to help ensure optimum reliabilty and longterm vehicle integrity. Well done Sir ..... well done!!
In 100 Series Land Cruisers, the 2UZ-FE plugs are notorious for backing out on their own and then blowing out when only a few threads are left engaged...so I'm in the "no anti-seize" camp.
I think going OEM is the right choice for modern vehicles. I had the opportunity to do 3 this past year, replacing iridium plugs. Honda - NGK, Nissan Titan - NGK, Pontiac Vibe (Toyota 1.8L engine) - Denso. Yes - cold engine. I used Alum anti-seize very sparingly on each and torqued to spec. I want to be nice to the next person replacing these plugs. It could be me! The toyota 4.7L looks to be significantly easier than the 5.6l Titan. My spark plug socket(s) is (are) shorter, so I just attach to an extension and wrap with some electrical tape to ensure everything comes out the way it should.
cold engine, insert new plug on end of length of heavy stiff rubber or plastic pressure hose , tube will slip if threads are not properly engaged but will easily feed new plug into correct thread, torgue up as usual.
Just did mine with the valve cover gaskets and one coil pack replaced, runs like new, pcv too, but I used ngk, my preference for japanese vehicles, never had an issue 210k and still rolling along like an abrams 🗽
I'll be doing this to my 5.7 Tundra in the near future. I will also be changing out the valve cover gaskets which is a job that I'm not looking forward to.
I just pulled a set of these plugs, factory originals from a rav4 with 165,000 miles 😲 they were in horrific condition, but the engine was running decently enough before with no history of misfire codes or engine related dtcs! Other than the quart of oil that particular group of engines burns every month it is now running much smoother 😖
Unfortunately I had a loose spark plug on cylinder 3 and it destroyed the thread. Small cause huge impact! Am now trying to figure out together with my mechanic how to re-cut a thread. Probably will have to take off the motorhead and do a full insert. Any tips or experiences to share? thanks in advance
@Toyota Maintenance the 10mm coilpack bolts on my 2000 LX470 are all corroded badly. I purchased an aftermarket set of stainless bolts and washers to replace. How would you suggest I remove the originals? Use a smaller socket and try? If that won’t work I’ll cut the tops off and find a way to extract the remaining bolt. Just thought I’d ask. Thanks for all you do!
NGKs came out of mine and they were probably the originals. Man they were crunchy coming out. One click at a time not knowing if they would snap with more pressure. 189K miles on them probably.
I have been told to be sure to use dielectric grease on the upper end of the spark plug where it connects with the coil pack. What are your thoughts on this? Thanks for your video.
Hi there. I got a P0306 code and I switched out the coil and spark plug. But my sequoia still isn’t running properly and has a flashing engine light. What else can I do? Need help!
Good video I will use OEM ignition coils (Denso) because I brought some off Amazon and in 2 years 5 have gone out already and was misfiring and caused my catalytic converter to go out in my opinion (2005 GX470), all two of them! I looked up that a misfired can cause the cat to malfunction, what is your take on this?
Do all 2UZ-FE use the same spark plug specs? My Tundra is a 2001, manual says to use Denso K20R-U. Those are conventional nickel plugs of course. I have searched on auto part sites and they spec out a different Denso model. Thanks for all the great vids. They help a lot and definitely make me love my old truck more.
That's what I used in my 02 and that's what the manual says to use. I recently switched out the K20R-U to the NGKs also listed in the manual. (BKR6EYA) part number 7990
All this seems to be a tough decision because the oxygen sensor especially the one at the top of the exhaust always requires copper anti seize. Difficult to remove without it. Is the exhaust hotter than the spark plug port? Or what do you think causes this seizing in the exhaust? Have you tested with and without anti seize? if so what were the results?
The head is aluminum. Using anti-seize will skew the torque reading and it’s easy to over-tighten them, whether by hand or done properly with torque wrench. Also, Denso uses a very thin proprietary coating on the threads, and Toyota accounts for this in their torque specs. Furthermore, even though the plugs are pre-gapped and have the protector around the ends, it’s always good practice to check the gap just to make sure it is where it’s supposed to be. If I remember correctly the gap for this engine(same engine I have) is 1.043 per my 2008 4Runner v8 2uz sport model manual.
I almost think the NGK dual electrodes will give you better fuel mileage just my experience because I put the Denso in replacing the NGK dual electrode iridium spark plugs and lost a little fuel mileage.
Does Toyota's service manual call for anti-seize? I'm guessing not if @Toyota Maintenance didn't use it. Honda specify to use a small amount of anti-seize on the threads of NGK iridium spark plugs and provide a torque spec that I assume takes into account that small amount of anti-seize (18 Nm / 13 lb-ft on my 6 cylinder J35A7 V6 and 25 NM / 18 lb-ft on my four cylinder R18A1). I followed Honda's service manual, but NGK's web site says no anti-seize.
Just did these on my 06 Sequoia at 185k was a breeze except i got a spark plug rubber grommet part stuck in the cylinder boy that wasnt fun to get out lol
The Toyota literature I've read generally warn against gapping plugs.. but if you bought a set and they were uneven, I'd go ahead and re-gap. These Densos look to be protected in shipping, so I'd assume they wouldn't need gapping.
NGK iridium or Denso iridium protected in Packaging do not Gap if they're not correct return them to your parts supplier. Also I would put some Dielectric grease on the porcelain and in the coil connectors
Well I get the Denso from autozone and they're protected, but the gap is set at .38 or whatever and I needed .43 if I just throw them in, I have crappy acceleration and hesitation when I push on the gas pedal.
For those of us who do our own maintenance -- which is your purpose in creating your maintenance videos -- who are american and do not have (the quite expensive, but quite good) Snap-On torque wrench, you might remember to mention the correct Foot Pound torque for installing the plugs.
I thought the same thing but then I remembered California has some the worst/craziest COVID restrictions at the moment so he’s probably just trying to stay outta trouble 🤷♂️
@@berryreading4809 thank you. It's a noticeable misfire. Medium in severity of feeling. New plugs, coils. I'm gonna pull plug and check gap. And hopefully since they're only 2 weeks old I'll see a significant difference on one.
Can aluminum and the spark plug materials rust? Can other engine materials cause rust with the spark plugs? Does the manufacture every use anti seize copper?
@CJ L. My mechanic who I've used for a long time said for a Toyota, spark plug changes are only need based upon mileage. So in the case of the Tundra it was 100K miles. Peter didn't know that the plugs were changed before hand in that Tundra. Hope that helps.
I took my 2017 Tacoma in for free oil change and was told it was $968 for oil change, air filter and cabin filter, spark plugs, tire rotation, and the rest was inspection of a long list including front and rear diff, transfer case, oil inspection not replaced. I asked for just the oil change and was told for the family plan to have 100k drive train warranty I have to pay $968 for the free oil change for life. I left. I looked and due to emissions regulations they recommend replacement of plugs at 60k. They are iridium.
Do what the owners manual says to keep the warranty. Also in the USA anyway you DO NOT have to use the dealer to keep warranty. Just need to show the records if needed.
