Hope you guys and gals enjoy the video today! Be sure and follow us over on facebook there's more of our story over there! Here's a link for ya! facebook.com/stoneyridgefarmer If ya wanna see all the cool tools and stuff we've used in videos check out our Amazon page here: www.amazon.com/shop/stoneyridgefarmer FYI if you use this link to shop on Amazon it's a huge help to the farm project! Thanks so much folks!
Josh, definitely put a filter/seperator on that tank. Meanwhile grab a "Mr. Funnel" to use when filling equipment. That way no water gets to your machines. Combo of tank and funnel filter/seperator and you be livin' the dream son. 😁 BTW - why don't you have a rear quick hitch?
@@StoneyRidgeFarmer Cool. Now get you a couple Mr. Funnel's and no water worries. If you never used a Mr Funnel it kinda looks like magic, fill the funnel with water, nothing comes out, pour in fuel and only the fuel gets through. Great Tuesday Tool. Oh and a quick hitch on that three pt. 😀 BTW - looking forward to that fell bush hog, really need something on my 4 lakes/ponds and pasture edges. Give 'er a real work over for us.
“The first time I did that it took me two and half hours”. That shows a lot of humility and makes you more enjoyable to watch. Thanks for the great video
I bought my farm 8 years ago off foreclosure, equipment included, after I retired from the USAF. It's refreshing to see that what I thought was me just winging it and doing my best was actually the way others do the same. Good video brother, thanks from Joe @ Hazy Days Farm.
Thanks Josh. Very helpful to me as I just picked up a Farmall 706 with front loader, bush hog, post hole digger, and tiller. I know nothing about tractors. But, with your help and others, I am learning.
The one tip that helped speed up my brush hog hook up is to get a long length of pipe. You can use that as a pry bar to shift the mower deck around just enough to get things to line up.
I am glad you admitted that it took you almost 2 1/2 hours to line up the 3-point the first time. I think every farmer has gone through that first experience. I know I did. Once you hook it up 2-3 times, everyone comes up with their own solution to lining it up. I dread 3-point hook ups every time I head to the barn. It gets easier, but it's never quick and effortless. Good videos.
I've had the same experience, Funny Farm. But now I've learned that my best friend is a big digging bar, about 5 ft long. I can shift the implement back and forth instead of the tractor. It took me a long time to figure that one out!
I’m a new tractor owner and I really appreciate all the gained knowledge from your videos. The spud wrench part is a big one as I don’t have a quick hitch.
My first time hooking one up was last night to my tym 474. Took about 10 mins but I had extendable lower links. After watching this I'm happy I don't have to fight those things. Nice vid!
The fuller you keep the fuel tank the better. It leaves less room for condensation inside the tank when you have hot days and cool nights. Thanks for the video
Also an additive like Penray Fuel Prep will help with water and add an anti microbial agent as well as add some lubricity to the fuel which will benefit your injectors on all motors running diesel. Small bottle will treat a 250 gallon tank. I live in NC myself and these hot days and cool nights bring lots of condensation. Especially in a fuel tank exposed to the outside air. I have rarely had to use and anti-gel agent on my diesel fuel as it rarely gets cold enough to gel up diesel here in NC. Fuel Prep does not have an anti gel agent.
This is what I’ve always put into practice. To add to that, your older equipment may have metal/steel fuel tanks. Keeping those full at the end of the day will minimize the rust that happens inside of the metal tanks due to the less surface area the condensation will be able to form on.
I’m 18 and this is my first time rigging up a 3pt and ours has the telescoping points, it made it somewhat easier but it still took me 3 hours and the top point came unhooked from the weird John Deere locking mechanism that keeps it attached to the tractor while I was hooking up the pto shaft and smacked me in the back. Long story short, I couldn’t have done it without this video and it was still hard. But I know how to do it myself now. Thanks man.
Love that drone shot as you fly over your pond then up over the trees and cross the field. Great music to go with. You're definitely a film producer now.
I'm glad you're liking the production value Dave....I've worked really hard to get where I am with the videos...lots of work above and beyond just mowing
Where Im located i hardly ever use top link while cutting. Got mostly pastures and smooth ground. It allows me to float better over the slightly hilled areas. Also heres a neat trick I learned when hooking up any 3 point equipment. As you see the lower arms never line up. Use a pipe, large pry bar, or even a t-post to move the implement to where the pin holes will line up. Much easier than trying to man handle the equipment or hopping on/off tractor a hundred times trying to move it forward/backwards to get them aligned. As far as fuel tank, water separator is your best option, just dump it and replace on a regular basis. Condensation will build up in any tank (plastic or metal) over time.
This has been really helpful to me. I have a rotary cutter that I have only used twice because I could never get it to work right. Now I think maybe I understand just how it suppose to work. Thanks Josh.
Hey Josh, thanks for the adjusting tips. I don't yet have a brush hog but hopefully will pick one up next season and the advice is helpful. Also try Howes or Power Serve or other fuel treatment if you're not doing it currently. Though they are primarily used in colder weather to keep fuel from gelling they do help in all seasons to disperse water/condensation.
I’ve learned to ONLY buy the black snap rings for equipment, much stronger than the standard gold ones! 15 years ago, I bought the Brown 472 brush hog w/ dual tailwheels. Tks, Josh!
Learn a little something every day. Thanks for the tips. One good turn deserves another. Spray down the PTO shaft and coupler liberally with WD-40 and work the coupler back and forth a few times to clean it up and it's not quite so brutal to couple up.
Great info on setting up the bush hog...thanks! Just picked up an old bush hog and will be servicing it, then trying it out this spring. As an alternative to the spud wrench, there are cheap rolling head pry bar sets available from lots of retailers. Bought a set a while back with the tractor in mind.
Ahh the classic argument on what angle to set a bush hog at. Some people like josh set it level. Some people like Chucke2009 set it with the front higher, and some people like me set it with the rear higher, so that the skid plates drag not the mower body and to send the discharge out the back so tree limbs and whatnot don’t come flying out the front. Nevertheless it was a great video no hate here!;)
I set mine lower at the front also, about 1” lower than the rear. The throws the cuttings out the back instead of forward to hit the front of the deck. That just causes it to carry more material with it as you travel, then it burns more fuel because it takes more power to keep all of that mess stirred up until it finally gets thrown out the rear discharge.
I have a John Deere 5055, I bought a big disk it’s a pain to hook up pretty much have to back up perfectly or I’ll be fighting with it for a while. Really enjoy your videos.
Planning on hooking the brush not soon and ALWAYS have issues Herrington lift arms in the right location. Now to search for a spud wrench!!! A friend gave me a quick hitch so will try and hook after putting that on my JD 790 tractor. You have the best videos!!!!
I worked at a store where we sold bed boxes, bed tanks, etc. The fuel/water separator is a must in almost every climate, especially with fuel oil in the tank for some reason. Yes, water in the diesel fuel can cause a number of problems. Don't hesitate to do something about it.
Keep a can of WD40 on the tractor. Spray your hands and wipe with a rag to remove the grease. Also, consider keeping a dead blow hammer on the tractor for implement changes.
Tractor Mike had a video a while ago and I commented - Always keep a can of WD40 AND spray lube in your tractor tool box. Spray the threads and eyes and splines before you even try to connect. Pat's quick hitch adapters look like a good alternative to "quick hitches" thank and take care
You can get a fuel filter for your transfer tank that has a water separator built into the filter. They also make a funnel type filter that you can pump the fuel through when filling the tractor tank that is supposed to take water out of the fuel. Keep in mind if you have water in the fuel it will be on the bottom of the tank so if you can shorten your draw tube for your pump so you aren't pulling right off the bottom it will help. Eventually you will have to deal with the water in the tank. I also like to have the bucket on the fel when hogging, set it to ride 4 to 6 inches above ground so it hits stumps, big rocks, or debris before the hog hits it.
Installing a fuel water separator on my Kubota was one of the best investments I’ve made on my equipment. The one I got has a clear bowl and drain so I can visually check my fuel quality. Living in upstate New York, I was having a real hard time in the winter with water in my diesel. Even with treatment.
The bush hog is the biggest pain in the . I’ve never got it to be easy to hook up. But practice and patience. And level ground helps. Your place is awesome. Keep the videos coming.
Josh, enjoy your videos - always entertaining. You often say that your 5065 has 63 PTO horsepower, but I think you will find that it is more in the low 50 HP range. We have a 5075 chore tractor in our hay operation and it is rated in the low 60 HP range. Keep up the great videos.
Josh, l found out, on my little tractor (that needs every advantage I can give it) that putting the front slightly down, we're talking 1/2" to 1", uses less horse power. The temp guage tells no lies.
I have to do some bush hogging and I have my John Deere 2003 790 tractor attached to the John Deere 513 brush hog which is a 5 foot unit and I keep it attached to this tractor since it is what is used mainly around my place all the time. I have a 2016 John Deere 3032E tractor which I connect everything else to and keep the landscaping rake attached to it most of the time, but do use it with my other attachments also like my box blade.
Good video. I have a rhino shredder and manual says to have the front set an inch lower than the rear. And other brush hogs I’ve had say the same, also mower decks at a 1/4 inch lower in the front.
When I get a new tractor (really need one), I'll have to watch this again. I have an old Farmall with a "Touch Control" hydraulic system that moves the hitch 3 different ways: raise/lower, tilt side-to-side, and tilt front-to-back. No adjustment of the bush hog necessary.
Great video! A few suggestions. Keep your tank as full as you can, all the time. Especially when there are extreme swings in the morning-to-night temperature. If you can, find a way to properly vent the tank. Those spring-loaded "venting caps" don't work worth a darn. Some transfer tanks come with a threaded and plugged port at the bottom. It's usually for a drain, and about 1/4". If you put a street elbow there, then a riser up to just above the level of the pump, and a rain proof vented cap, your expansion/contraction & condensation issue will get a lot better. Last, your idea of a water separator is the right way to go. Also, use a good quality LOW/SMALL micron filter. Filters are cheap compared to fuel injection systems that get ruined by water. I spin a new fuel filter on every one of my transfer tanks every 60 days. I probably pump a lot more fuel than you do, but the point is: Get in a routine. It's easy to forget when I did it last, so I put a reminder in my phone calendar and write when it was done last right on the side of the filter with a sharpee. Let the tank breath and filter the hell out of the fuel leaving that transfer tank. Hope that helps. Good luck!
On the 5065e lift arms you also need to set the connector pins to Float or lock. For a bush hog it needs to be set to float yours are locked. With a heavier bush hog or making a sharp turn you can break these pins if implement not adjusted right.
I use a flail mower myself. Much more forgiving if you hit a hidden rock or stump. But you have gotten your pastures is good shape. Flail is very handy along the wood line and edge of road fronts. The flail mower also shreds up the grass better than a bush hog type mower and since you need bio matter on your pastures it would be a good choice.
So to answer your question about the fuel getting water in it most of the time on the top of the fuel cap you are going to have what's called a one-way check valve or there's some way to get air into the tank and most of the time like on semi trucks we have what's called a one-way check valve that is so that it's not always vented to the atmosphere but only when you're sucking fuel out that air is allowed in so when the tanks just sitting there it will not allow air to pass
On our bushhog instead of having a top link arm we have a chain with a shackle on both ends and it allows way more movement and kinda makes it easier to hook up
I was able to acquire some plastic skids to set my implements on. It allows the equipment to slide easily while hooking them up. Plus no moisture or rotting skids and weeds
I like your videos we have meet before at turtle island. I’m the one that make all the signs up there out of wood. I have just now got a few tractors and farm equipment and was watching to see if I remember just how to do it.
Found your channel for the first time, good information. However, one thing no one mentions is the center link adjustment when the unit is raised off the ground. In the raised position the unit should be level front to back just as it is when in the cutting position. This will allow the proper amount of flex when going over uneven ground. I also notice that several people talk about using a chain instead of the factory center link. The chain allows the unit to flex to much, possibly jamming the PTO shaft when the rear wheels of the tractor fall into a low place. The opposite is true when the front wheels fall into a low place. The PTO shaft could come apart and make for very unpleasant clanging noises and lots of damage.
I think your farms starting to really take off josh I think your smaller tractors and equipment might need upsizing one day. I am looking at getting a wood 14ft bat wing mower for my farm here in Australia
Fuel water separator for the fuel tank is a must. The tank is vented(usually with the fill cap) and if not vented it would either be crushed by atmospheric pressure when pumping fuel or the pump would not work.On mine I use a fuel filter that has a water separator as part of the design. Simply replace every 6 months or so. Just replaced a 92 gallon aluminum tank that had corrosion perforations on the bottom. Heck of a mess when it started leaking. Went back with a steel fuel tank aluminum tool box option.When buying used you take that risk:tank may leak.
I’m 1/2 mile from a station with farm gas. I just drive down there. I’m 80 and can’t lift a can high enough. I had a 50 gallon tank but traded it for a bunch of welding.
Fuel doesn't suck water. Air, and the humidity it contains, enters the fuel tank during the day when it is warm and the humidity condenses on the tank walls when it cools down. Want to eliminate it? Keep the tank full and there is no or little air space inside for the atmosphere to enter. I keep a fuel tank for my airplane and don't keep it full but there is little humidity where I am in Alaska and I have a water filter on it. I do keep my airplane full when possible. Believe me, a half empty tank in your area is going to get a lot of water in it.
in reality we can't simply keep a tank full all of the time....I use diesel power service and that eliminates the water issue. It's simply not an achievable goal to plan on keeping all the fuel tanks on the farm topped off brotha
Take a tape, measure from the cat1 pins to a common point on your tractor. I use the hinge on my rops. Then square off the rear axle. Implement is then square and level with the tractor. And get a chunk or pry bar to move the cutter, makes hook up a breeze.
Temperature differences in your fuel tank causes air to expand and contract, thus, your tank breathes air and moisture in and out when the tank cools and heats up. To intercept moisture in the air you could find a way to get a moisture adsorbing dessicant at the place you put in the fuel. Look around for something that can be put in this area to adsorb the moisture. Adding a moisture adsorbing filter inline works. I have an old gas tractor, small amounts of moisture are not as much trouble for me. I just keep the tank as full as possible so air does not breathe in and out as much.
