Trad Climbing "The Seal" 5.10a/b | Looking Glass Rock, NC 

You all are missing out on placing nuts and hexes. Lighter, more placements per unit weight.

Nice, glad you made it out to looking glass. FYI, there’s a big jug on the outside of the flake when it opens up at the top you can grab (blind) and avoids using your head in the flake. Maybe I’ll see you out there this fall season, I’m headed to Laurel/Whitesides next week Monday/Tuesday I think.

When I climbed the first pitch in 1989 the guide book said it was 5.9. It thought it was considerably harder. I felt like a chump, blowing hard on a 5.9. I feel better now seeing it rated 10a/b. I think most people keep their heads out of the big crack and do the burly undercling all the way across that section, making a run for the narrower part and some protection. Few people had the the cams for the wide stuff back then. That's the way I did it. I haven't seen it done your way. Nice job. You're really good with your gear and feet. You should do the second pitch of this route too. It's pretty good and ends at a nice ledge. Double rope rappel from there. Also, NC Slab is great! It's really fun when it finally clicks and you can just walk up 5.9 slab confidently! So fun.

Its like circus circus on steroids.

I have been sport climbing for a long time and I am just now getting into trad. Your ability to almost instinctively know what piece to place is really impressive. Looks way smoother than my 20 minutes of faffing about trying to find the right size cam 😅

still a sub5.9 leader - got to say - the way that you preplan your gear placements (put piece in your hand before youre at the location), rerack cams to the front that you know youll need for an upcoming section, just overall efficiency of placing pro....so smooth! very clean style.

The land of a thousand eyebrows. If only some of them were upside down... If you need a masterclass in NC slab, head over to Stone Mountain (Not the one in Georgia) where you'll find expanses of smooth granite bigger than football fields. It's nowhere near vert, but there's 5.11s. Bolts were placed on lead, no power tools. No, you didn't miss a bolt, it's up another 40 feet... You'll gain a new appreciation for tiny nubbin crystals... Home of the Stone Mountain running belay--the rope is passed through a biner slung to a tree, and when the climber falls the belayer takes off running through the woods. Good times.

Amazing climb man! I’ve been sport climbing like a mad man! I’m ready for trad and that’s the next step I wanna take! I live in Alabama, hit me up sometime man let’s get some climbs in!

You could slow down a bit... Where's the rush?

Placing the First piece so high indicates great psychological stability 👍👍

I remember leading that in EBs! Rated 5.9 at that time.

Can't be an onsite; too quick with the placements. But, well done.

do you think there was a way to jam in the wide section of the crack? I haven't climbed that route yet, but it looks so cool.

I love the color of that rock. Well done Timmy!

Dialed great job

great job

Did you climb this the same day as me?