Larry..been watching you 5yrs. Love your truthfulness! Question: have wiring in 1970 Mobil Scout ,can't figure out what small wire in Roman is. Sent to your sponsor and they did not know Need to send photo.
Awesome, Larry! The reminder of smoke detection and fire extinguishers are especially apt. Reminding to have 2 extinguishers is a good nudge for me, El Cheepo. Happy Trails Capt. Larry. Don't let the fish laugh at you.
No that one is just grounded to the frame. Skin has nothing to do with it. The 12vdc is what uses the skin for ground. And ground has a few different meanings which is why this is all so confusing. Electrical is a very hard thing to teach without you going through a course for 6 months.
Thank you Larry. Your tutorials are outstanding! The confidence you've given me to wire my trailer is priceless. Proud new subscriber. One question- what gauge wire are you using from the converter to the distribution box @ 21:41? Thanks again!
So glad I found your channel. I started converting an all aluminum cargo trailer just after COVID hit. It has been a struggle. Supply chain disruptions, increasing prices on materials and products. Now that I’m ready to install my progressive dynamics 35 A distribution/converter panel I’m a little confused. Have men searching the web for info on proper grounding my electrical system to the aluminum frame. Lots of conflicting info out there. Dissimilar metals corrosion, grounding both the distribution AC and the 12 volt separately, Etcetera any help you could give would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for your videos.
Excellent video Larry. Probably the very best that I have seen. No, it "IS" the best I have seen. I do have a couple observations to share. First is the 120v circuit where you use wire nuts. While they are a necessary evil on a trailer they are really not suggested for use in a moving vehicle. So, when I use them I always use electrical tape to secure them from coming adrift. Friction tape is best but vinyl will work. When using vinyl I suggest starting on the wire and roll the tape around in the same direction as the installation of the nut. Then work up to the wire nut and then back to the starting point. Finish with a small wire tie to secure the tape at the termination point so that if the tape dries out over time the wire tie will keep it in place and wire nut will stay in put. Another point would be the 12v portion. As an instructor I have always advised my students that you should never work with the power wire at the battery while the ground is attached. Basically, disconnect the ground first and install it last. This avoids any chance, as you put it, of welding that you did not wish to do. One last thing. When determining the length to cut the 120v wire at a plug receptacle for the push in attachment, many receptacles have an indentation on the back side to use as a gauge. Again, this is one great video and should be watched by anyone working on their electrical system. I'm a retired, 47 years, automotive electrical specialist I even learned from this video. Thanks for putting it together.
Thanks for the observations. All good points. I have planned to make a follow up video showing all of the good input from all three videos that I have received from people like yourself. It will become part of the series.
Hi Larry, have you made any videos on adding inverters to the trailers? I am wanting to do this but not sure how to wire it all up with the broad placement of my electrical system that is in my trailer now. Thanks
Hi Larry, Just got my new converter from VTS. And a fuse panel like the one you used at State Trailer (Idaho Falls, Idaho). I'm watching all your videos again. Thanks for putting these together, helped me understand a whole lot. Question: What size wire did you use for the jumper wire to add 15 amp breaker.
Thank you for the info. I got another one for you. The fuse box I got doesn’t have the 3 different inputs for positive wires. Do I just hook both, my battery and my converter up to the one positive terminal? Or do I need to find another fuse box?
Regarding the Progressive Dynamics Converter you use, can you please clarify something for me? In other places I have read and seen that I would need both an inverter AND a converter. This would be so I could camp without shore power but still have basic lights and a device charger. Is that correct, and Is this one you recommend an all-in-one unit? If not all-in-one, can you recommend the 2nd part I need to make it complete? I also am unclear about how to operate on DC power, without shore power. You demonstrated with AC but not with DC far as I could tell. Is it as simple as just not plugging in to shore, and voila, the battery just works that easy? Are there switches to switch? Lastly, all this video was assuming the trailer is torn apart and a person is running all new wires, to which I say a hefty HA HA HA. I'm trying to map out a plan to update a 58 model that had the interior and exterior reworked but the fools did not touch the wiring while they had it all wide open. It appears to me the camper was made to hold a battery along with propane tanks, but all that is years gone. Restoring a vintage camper is wonderful, I'm glad people do it, but I think it should include updating electrical for safety reasons, and as far as true restoration, making all the original parts work should also be included, such as DC and propane systems. It seems most people are intimated by these and tear them out rather than repair them. By the end of restoration, they have a shell that's not good for much of anything useful but looking cute. Thank you for the video series, it was very informative and did answer many, many questions I had!
An inverter changes 12vdc into 110vac. So if you are using AC appliances and you are boondocking so that you can not plug in to shore power, then you will need an inverter to run anything that uses 110vac. If you run everything on 12vdc then there is no need at all for AC. But if you want to plug in an old radio or a microwave you will need AC. I don't show the use of an inverter so in the case used in the demonstration, to have 110vac you need shore power. If not you're stuck with just 12vdc. A CONVERTER changes 110vac into 12vdc. So it's main function is to keep the on board battery charged. It's not meant to run the trailer by itself. It needs a battery to work properly.
Great series!! Very detailed and understandable explanations! If adding a postive and negitave bus bar would it be the same but just connecting coverter, battery and DC fuse box to the correct bus bar? Thanks
I really enjoyed your video series on Trailer Wiring Systems. I wonder if you could comment on the size and type of wiring you used in DC section of elect system. How would you incorporate a battery isolator into your wiring scheme? Thanks.
Thanks Larry for your video. It really helped me out. What size auto resetting breaker do you use? 30amp? I saw on vintage trailer supply, they were just selling a 50amp one
I like to ask you a question. If your converter doesn’t work far as charging your battery. As long as your battery is charged will your system,lights, and etc. still work?
Hey Larry, great series on electrical! I know this is a simple question for most, but I'm a very visual person and if I can't fully see what's going on, I can't fully understand it. For your 110 grounding lug that screws through the skin and to the frame, do you have picture somewhere of what the back side of that looks like? I'm trying to visualize how it would go through the skin, but also to the frame on the bottom.
Another question: when you used the barrel connectors to crimp your two grounds together when cascading, you then grounded them to the metal box. But what if you're using a plastic box?
Hi Larry, Very good information! I have a question regarding the video though. What gauge wire do you use in the run from the converter to the fuse panel....and from the battery to the fuse panel? Thank you!
Great video, thanks for all the time and effort you put in Larry. This was mentioned before, but I am unable to find a distribution panel with more than one positive outlet on it. Is it possible to run this converter through the panel with only one positive outlet? Can I hook up both the positive wires up to the one outlet?
This should work for you. www.amazon.com/WUPP-Blade-Warning-Indicator-Damp-Proof/dp/B07GBV2MHN/ref=sr_1_8?crid=3K1R1A2LIABIM&dchild=1&keywords=12+volt+dc+distribution+block&qid=1622510820&sprefix=12+volt+dc+dist%2Caps%2C246&sr=8-8
@@noahcherrington9365 No I like to use a buss of some sort. EIther a panel with fuses or a regular buss. Never connect more than one wire to the battery or the converter. One wire from the battery to the converter. Then one wire from the converter to a buss or panel. Distribute after that. So a distribution panel is the way to go.
@@mobiltec I am wondering if this will work. I have an inteli-power converter, the distribution panel you linked above, and a deep cell battery. The converter and the panel both have only one positive and negative post. Will this equipment work and how so? Thanks I appreciate it a lot!
Great stuff.....do you know where I can get an old vintage camper icebox from the late fifties or sixties preferably turquoise or seafoam? If you do a RU-vid search for "1957 Red Dale Camper" the guy has beautiful birch cabinets with the classic Amber shellac with great turquoise appliances just what Id like to have.
I can only find 12 volt dc panels with 1 "Main" positive and 1 "Main" negative...can I connect more than 1 cable to these Main terminals? (2 going to panel negative and 2 going to panel positive) Battery and Power converter...
I can’t find your video on the 7-pin connector. Need your expertise! I’m wiring a 1946 Spartan Manor to include: breakaway switch; charge house battery from Converter; charge house battery from truck when driving; electric brakes and brake controller. I installed LEDs in tail lights. The power center has a cable from the Converter to the battery, but have no wire from truck’s outlet to the battery. If I connect a battery charger to the brown [tai/running lights] wire, they come on, and I get 12v at the 7-pin brown terminal. the wire from the Converter goes through the resetting fuze per your instructions; I think it should include a branch wire in the terminal box, to the 12v constant-hot terminal, as well….your guidance? We really need a good video showing how ALL the wires go together; most videos like this are for boat and utility trailers. At eTrailer, their instructions are for each component, but don’t explain how the full hookup would go for a fullblown camper. I’ll be installing a rear camera, as well, so that adds complexity. Thnx!
Generally the wire on the 7 pin connector that is used for charging from the tow vehicle is the center lead. The color changes sometimes due to the fact that the Chinese can't get it straight. But it's usually red. I don't follow your wanting to run a constant hot terminal off of the running lights. Doesn't make sense to me. But I suppose I should make a video on the 7 pin connector. Haven.t done that yet. I've been very busy with the 48 Mainline but it's almost finished and I will be able to make more videos soon. But as far as a constant hot is concerned that is what the distribution panel is for. Then you can branch off of that for all your different needs. Just make sure to use the proper size fuses for each branch.
And here is a link to a tutorial on the ONLY forum that I am on for vintage trailer restoral. vintagetrailertalk.freeforums.net/thread/12263/12-volt-diagram-vintage-trailers This should help.
I have a question for you Larry. Master battery switch before the fuse or after the fuse, I've seen it both ways and does it matter. also, master battery switch and fuse, closer to the battery side or closer to the controller/charger side, or does it matter?
Master switch after the fuse and both as close to the battery as possible. The longer the wire to the batter the better the chance of a fire if there is a short.
@@mobiltec do you think it would make sense to avoid running the converter and dc lights and having a battery if you would only be using it for lighting? Would it be cheaper just to wire lighting with ac and have LED's if you're using shore power? thanks for replying btw!
You mounted the receptacles which looked like the ground plug was in the above position. If so could the plug work loose partially dropping out leaving the circuit ungrounded? Which should be in the top position? Edit - Should the receptacle be mounted with the 2 flat prongs on top or with the single (ground) up? Thanks.
What are you using for a fuse box now as this one is no longer available? I'm having a hard time finding one with three positive posts (or whatever they are called.)
I use these now and they work great. Just run wires to the battery and to the fuse panel right out ot the converter OR a couple of buss bars. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074XYY967/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
@@mobiltecthank you! I appreciate your help so much! Next I'm going to look for one of your videos on attaching panelling the best way. 😊 You're the best!
Hey Larry! one more question for you. I was going to buy a converter where the converter and DC/AC distribution panel is all-in-one. However, I don't know if they have a screw terminal dedicated for a charging wire from your 7-pin connector. In that case, would I buy a separate busbar? How big (amp-wise) of a busbar would I need?
Adam I'm not available right now I'm kind of on the road for the next couple of days let me give you my email address.mobiltec@Gmail.com I'll get back to you in a few days when I get home.
IF you have a frame ground it can be grounded to any part of the frame. Just drill a hole and put a little bolt and nut in there to hold it. Not all trailers had frame grounds so it depends on what year and what kind of trailer it is.
If you are plugged into shore power your DC distribution panel would be getting power from your converter, correct? The DC distribution panel would also be getting power from your battery. How is it that two different power sources connected to the DC distribution panel doesn't create a problem? Thanks
That's the way all charging systems work. The main work horse involved is the battery. it has a deep well of 100 ampere hours of power stored at any given time when charged. The converter only comes into play when the batter drops below 12 volts and needs charging. And 12volts in parralel with 12 volts equals 12 volts. Once the battery comes back up to full charge the converter shuts itself off. The main thing is you never want to run off just the converter because it does not have a store of 100 ampere hours to use. It's a trickle charger so to speak compared to the stored power in the battery. So when your battery is not charging well any longer due to age, you need a new battery or your converter will be over worked and it will burn up.
Great video, but I have a question. I have my convertor plugged in my 110 outlet then ran to the battery then from the battery to the 12v fuse panel is this wrong? Thats how the instructions showed it plus when you look at wiring diagrams on line thats how they show it as well. I did not know about the automatic self resetting breaker I will get one today thanks. Again just learning over here not trying it be a troll. Thanks Tom
That's correct... That's another way of doing it. Electrically it's the same. The only problem with that way is that battery connections tend to corrode and must be cleaned once in a while. The connection at the battery (splice) can corrode also, thus making a weak point for current... So I run to the fuse panel first and from there it ends at the battery. No splices at the battery where the corrosion happens.
Amber Corp I’m thinking if your batter goes dead hooked to shore power. You would always have 12 volts because your converter is always plugged in and Running. Hooked your 12 volt fuse block to the battery direct if the battery goes dead so does the whole Trailor. Any way just My Opinion.
@@jimdavis8804 This is the way the instructions say to do it and the battery will not go dead as long as the trailer is plugged into 110vac. Once you unplug the converter/charger it's all up to the battery and yes it will go dead eventually if you don't charge it. You can also charge the battery from the tow vehicle if you have a 7 pin plug. That's for another video.
After watching these videos, I have learned that my wiring system is a hack job. Would you be willing to help me out? And explain what you think is going on with my electrical system.
Hi if you have the running lights on with the switch so you can find your trailer at night and plug in your tow vehicle so you now have 2 power source is that a problem
Larry, Hoping you can help clear something up for me. I can not find a distribution fuse panel that has 2 separate positive connections (yours has 3) one to the battery and one to the converter. All the ones I find have just one positive source connection. Do you know where I can find one similar to yours? I have searched many sites and cannot seem to find one. Thanks.
Unfortunately the manufacturer of that box like I showed in the video has gone out of business so VTS is looking for another one. If you have not already purchased a converter I suggest you go with the 45 amp all in one panel. It's the same as my set up but all together already. vintagetrailersupply.com/progressive-dynamics-4045-45-amp-converter-ac-dc-distribution-panel-vts-567/
I was thinking. I was surprised when you hooked the converter first to the 12 volt fuse Block and then to the battery. But that makes since. If the battery goes bad you still have 12 volts from the converter. And don’t loose power to the appliances or light and such.
mobiltec yes Sir. I was referring to if the battery went bad you would still have 12 Volt power to the Trailor. If you are hooked to shore Power. Great Vids Brother.
@@jimdavis8804 OH ok... Well something that many people don't know is that if your battery goes bad and you continue to run off just the converter, you will ruin the converter. So when the lights begin to flicker it's time for a new battery and that will save your converter.
And with the 45 amp converter I’ll need a 50 amp breaker I’m assuming. I just got the first one that popped up and once I hooked it up to the converter it kept clicking. Upon further investigation I realized it is a 6 amp…not enough 💪🏼
No you really only need 15 amps AC to run the 45 amp converter. The AC input and the output CD are two different things. But I usually recommend at least a 30 amp AC input. You only need 50 amps if you are going to run two roof top AC units.
@@butchwaldo8729 The one right at the battery is 50 amps and you can get that at Vintage Trailer Supply. This is just to protect against shorting out the battery.
So, will the outlets and whatever’s wired through the breakers still work when the trailer isn’t plugged into shore power? Seems like they’re not wired to function off the battery alone, then what’s the solution when in the back country?
@@mk.anyway6848 No. I needed to try and keep it as simple as possible. Inverters weren't around in the 50s and 60s. Matter of fact, they didn't have 12vdc on board either. That didn't happen until the late 60s.
No I haven't prepared a list for the video purchases. But much of it is available at Vintage Trailer Supply and Home Depot. Link for VTS in the description.
Hi there, I have both an inverter and converter. I am not sure which or both to use, but was told to scrap the converter. If so is the inverter connected in the same way?
They are two different devices. You need the converter to convert 110vac into 12vdc. An inverter does the opposite. It turns 12vdc into 110vac. It all depends on your needs. All trailers have a converter. Not all trailers have an inverter.
@@mobiltec Thank you for your response. My little 13ft did not have a converter but someone gave me one. I bought the inverter to charge my phone, computer ect. So I am wondering if I should put them both in or not.
@@catherinelam9593 This is a matter of choice. Because most devices can be charged from a 12vdc source and because most people are now using LED lighting, there is very little need for an Inverter which changes 12vdc into house type voltage and current of 110vac. An inverter uses a lot more power to charge your devices than just charging them off of a 12vdc source. If you really want to have both you might consider a portable power pack like a Jackery. www.amazon.com/Jackery-Portable-Power-Station-Generator/dp/B07D29QNMJ/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=portable+power&qid=1578442791&sr=8-4
@@mobiltec thank you, sir! I don't think he has them on his site any more. I think I will get the Progressive Dynamics 4045: 45 Amp Converter + AC/DC Distribution Panel.
There was no such thing in vintage trailers but I understand the need for power when boon docking now a days... I recommend using a Jackery power station along with foldable solar panels that you can lay out in the sun. Don't want to put any holes in the roof.
You mentioned what to do if all the campers turn on their running lights, that that would be a problem. Solution. Just hook up an air horn that goes off every 30 seconds. Then you will have no problem finding your camper. No charge.
What do you mean Chinese tools. Why would you buy Chinese tools Snap on? Mack? Cornwell? Matco? Well if you buy tools made in china then you get what you pay for
None of the vendors you mentioned makes the tools I am using. Virtually all of the tools I need are made in china. But the main tools that I am moaning about are the philips screw bits for the screw gun and the SCREWS themselves. One doesn't match the other and the screws fall over when you press on them with the screw gun. That's just plain stupid. They make both of those things and one doesn't fit the other.
