I am soon building a 4x8 HO scale layout and plan to use Bachmann EZ track. I picked up more track to go with what I had and put together this test layout. Got some issues to work on for sure! May have to change to another type of track.
As mentioned by others, the gaps in the rail joints will cause power loss, and make sure the rails have gone into the joiners properly, if they haven’t, this can cause derailment issues. Check your trip pin rail clearance, Kadee makes a combination coupler tool and trip pin bending pliers that are right down handy. Good quality couplers are a must. If these are Bachmann’s “EZ Mate/“ couplers check out Kadee 148 “whisker” couplers, I think you’ll like their performance. If this is just out of the box track, wipe it down with a cloth and rubbing alcohol to remove any forming oil that may still be on the rails. The blinking bumper may also be a problem, I had a Bachmann set with a blinking light bridge, every time the light flashed the loco slowed down. Good idea to start small, the switching possibilities on what you have are really great. I realize this video is a year old but I hope you get the bugs out. These can really discourage a new modeler.
I like your layout. I have the same problem with couplers. They connect best on straight track, so I try to position cars so that the two cars coupling together will be straight in line with each other.
Body mounted couples drive me crazy on a curve, like you I try to position on a straight, but even then can have issues. I don't have that issue with the old truck mounted horn hooks. lol
the gaps in the frogs are HUGE on bachmann switches and derail everything on the turnout side. some atlas snaptrack switches do it to. great start so far!
@@VintageRoadRail you could, but first rub your finger accros rails, liitle spurs can cause issues. also avoid S curves (there are videos on this) I see long cars which don't like them
You can slightly file down the edges of the turn outs. I see the cars are bumping when the hit the rail of the turn out that isn't part of the main line. that will stop that not so smooth transition from the turn out to the main and the same way coming into a turn out. It appears the coupling issues are on small curves.
I am an old timer with a renewed interest in Model Railroading, I will be starting from scratch and starting small. I am looking for a Loco like yours with lights bells and whistles. Can you share the make and model or yours . Your video is inspiring and will be fun ironing out the kinks.
Sorry about the lat reply, took me a bit to find the box this locomotive was in. This is an Atlas SD-35. Its part of their Master Series of locomotives. Item #9202. This one was upgraded with a Tsunami sound decoder.
FYI, Gaps and bad joints are you enimies on DCC, and seeing the gaps where the engine fails points out the issue. Try replacing the joiners or giving them a squeze. keep in mind you have only one feeder feeding the power in
Nice track plan! But change your type of track, (I know this sounds really hard) because that track gives a lot of false contacts between the rail joiners, and change your couplers !!. Kadee is one of the best choices. One tip is to coupling cars at straigth track or at least a small piece of straigth because the coupler has to stay as straigth as possible to avoid uncouplings
I enjoyed your layout, I too use EZ track. I agree with the other comment on the coupling problem. The cars seem to couple better on a straight track. Im not sure if switching to Kadee couplers would help the situation. For now, Im using EZ track to try out different track layouts. I can quickly change and try different layouts, once Im satisfied I can switch to a different brand of track. You mentioned the loco was sounding like it was dropping out, perhaps the track has some dirty spots. my track always needs to be cleaned. Is the CSX loco a GP35?
Close, SD35. I was thinking dirty spots on the track as well. Then I remembered I ran a track cleaning car over the track and the Loco has a keep alive. Runs perfectly at the club, so I'm at a lose.
FYI, get a kaddee coupler guage to check coupler heights, and their trip pins, if off they will cause all kind of issues like the derailments. Also keep in mind Bachmann uses a cheaper knockoff of Kadee coupler and do have cars which they are just bad. Might want to mark your problem cars, when they get three marks on one, do a service (neat maintennce trick)
I like that maintenance trick! Stuff I run on the regular I try to make sure to match my couplers with my Kadee gauge. Problem is I usually run into problems at the train club and forget what car was an issue by the time I get home. That little trick will help with that. Thanks. :)
I only use Kadee for long trains that I run at the train club. Figure the metal couplers can take the stress better that plastic. For the rest I usually leave them be unless they break. The I replace with Kadee. Most cars with horn hooks keep the horn hooks. Not worth the investment for most when a $5 adapter car will do the trick.
wait...is that a SD35R? Where did you get one of those lovely locomotives!!! If your engine or cars try to couple on a curve, it won't work. That spur track has 1 too many cars (even if they are 34-40ft). Try only 2 cars of that length per spur. If your cars have truck-mounted couplers then that's another issue with coupling. Finally, you got a sharp "S" curve coming off of that spur track. That can cause derailments as the curves are too sharp. Take out any S curves would fix some issues. One thing to keep in mind with larger 6-axle locomotives, they were not designed to work on sharp curves of 18-inch radius. You will need a 4-axle to handle such tracks. hope this helps.
That is my favorite locomotive! It's by Atlas. To me it looks good and sounds better. Can pull 30 cars with ease. I got that rascal off eBay. Lots of great advice you gave. The switches I have are not good for yard work, that built in 18" curve is impossible to couple on. I'll post a link in a moment to a video I did of that locomotive.
I switch between DC and DCC. DC is just a standard controller. For DCC I am using a Digitrax DCS-51 with the Wi-Fi module so that I can use my phone as a throttle. There is a newer version, DCS-52.
My layout is so small I just have o e connection point using Bachmans wiring connector. I have one on the DC pack and one on the DCC controller. I just plug in the one I want to use.
