Training For Climbing - Finger Strength 

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Ahhh i see what you did there

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Appleseedlol lmfao

I saw that straight away then scrolled!

Chris Peacock that means he’s either a great boss and motivator and isn’t self-centered.

Oh yeah

hahah....I thought wtf is doing this jerk in this channel.

Marc see *fingers

That's absolutely hilarious you pointed that out

I've gone for a comp too

@@elisabethjohnson3081 Nice

means that both climbing days and training days count towards the total. In other words, take 2-4 complete rest days a week

For what it's worth, I thought it was an excellent word choice!

you must be in finance! likewise bro! i thought it was nice word too :)

Nah bro I'm not, but I did take an Econ course and I have a great memory. :) I read a ton, too.

hey, these are a pretty good solution shop.epictv.com/en/fingerboards-training/moon/campus-rungs

that might actually work. im debating on that or the metolius project board, even though its a bit higher on the price range. thnx for the recommendation

EpicTV I'm renting so I can't put stuff like that above a doorway. Do you guys know of anywhere that makes stands for fingerboards?

Build a free standing system. Use bolts not skrews on the major joints so you can take it apart and rebuild it in your next place. I googled it and found this little helpful link. www.seekingexposure.com/freestanding-fingerboard-mount/

I have set mine up in a rented place by screwing the hangboard to a sheet of rubber backed wood with another sheet on the back and using some big G-clamps to hold it on. Works perfectly with no screws

Not at all yet, just bouldering alone will increase your overall fitness and skill more than hangboarding at first. Plus, your tendons take a long time to develop, once you have a solid baseline, than you can squeeze some extra gains out of hangboarding. No need to rush it, just enjoy the process.

Yeah not something you wanna rush. Too much strain on your tendons and SNAP! Now you're out for weeks, possibly months and back at square one. Or even square negative one if you factor in rehab.

It can vary, but I try to do one session fresh(before climbing) each week. Other times after or mixed in for short mini-sessions.

PUSSY!!!!!!!!

Kneading dough?

keithc1234 gaming

*fingures

"reccomends"

None of these use your thumb tho

The goal is to tax your muscles enough for adaptation, but not enough to get injured. Usually, in a regular weight training, you would perform until failure provided that you can keep form. The climbing exercises that are suggested here, are for smaller musles, tendons and joints and are injured easily. Therefore it is best to prevent excess strain by stopping short of failure. But I'm just a random guy on the internet.

Le Psycho Well, thank you for the answer. Believe it or not but I still think about this question at least every second day. So I am really thankful for the answer. So, correct me if I'm wrong, the exercise to create grip strength is mainly to train the forearm which is not the smallest muscle. I'm guessing that you mean the joints in the finger that are also under stress and are injured easily. But to be honest, so I'm able to hold onto an edge for 15secs it has to be fairly good and the risk of ingury is therfore reduced anyway. But I can imagine that this exercise is also for people who just start out on the campusboard/hangboard and don't have as strengthend joints and ligaments jet

Zachary Greaves ive always been told to not even consider it until you have at least a year under your belt, and even then to wait longer

Florian B I heard slopers are not about strength but about skills try using ur whole palm

Its just you not feeling time at all. Check it - his 12 sec is ~12sec

Justin Chan I’ve been climbing for about 2 years and didn’t start hangboarding until 1 year in. I just did pull ups at my house and went to the gym twice a week. Also, how often do you go to the gym? I currently go 3 days a week and hangboard 2 days a week. If you are going only once a week, it is going to go slow. 3 times a week would be the best, and after a several months you can supplement that with some extra hangboard training on days you don’t go. Hope that helps.

I'm going to the bouldering gym 2 times a week, but trying to push it to 3

If you're strong enough hang from your door frame, but some frames are too small for this.

They also make rubber donuts that help to strengthen your fingers and forearms. I do this all the time at home and in the car. You can find a 3 pack of varying pressures on amazon for cheap.

If you've only been at it a few months you'll likely get more value from just climbing and working on technique rather than doing finger training. Maybe give it another year of consistent climbing before worrying about climbing-specific training.

Right on. Thanks for the advice.

Hang on the top of the hangboard

I think it's because you'll get injured faster with a full crimp

Qc1booboo because theres to much action on your finger pulleys, the risk of an injury is much higher. you should take that risk just for some good gos in your project ;)

never full crimp when training, you shouldnt need to full crimp until youre at like v10 and its a outdoor session

hmmm v10 sounds a bit extreme, i rarely crimp (think i can count on one hand how many times i have, maybe two hands) but I've done a couple problems indoors even around the v6/7 range that i just couldn't do without full-on crimping. but i agree you should never crimp when training, the risk is just not worth it

apparentlt full crimp is only more for stability as well. Look a the grippul challenge. then the strongest crimper there crimped like 110kgs? and that wasn't a full crimp. they discovered people preferred to opt for a half crimp if going for power.

Chipmonkcheeks53 darude sandstorm

Chipmonkcheeks53 despacito 2

sam111880 not really as you can compensate a lack with a strength somewhere else. Anyhow, your toes are not likely to give up before your hands do

I dont think ive ever failed a climb because either of my legs gave out.

You need core to get more force into your toes. So what you are looking for is core training.

Running in sand is the only thing I can think of.

youll be fine. its only an hour, i train three days a week for 2-3 hours and climb outside 2 days a week for 6+ (including belay time)

Yeah you should climb for 2 hours at least 3 times a week.

Joao Rocha No pain no gain.

Joao Rocha Pussssssy

Yeah this is a sport for skinny white kids lol, not really an athletic one. Fucks up your joints and fingers.

Better than you ?!?! lol this is for ACTUAL fit people, this shit requires technique and body strength.

Totally Not Earth yeah sorry didn't mean to offend, it's not your standard athletic sport though, you know what I mean

Darío Orellana I would sugest do this after done climbing or if you have 2 days off.

Darío Orellana This is a finger strenght training... always do it after a good warm up. You can climb after your training but make sure you're doing some climbing related to power/strenght like bouldering, otherwise you'll anulate or rest efectivity to your finger strenght training (do not climb endurance for the next 8 to 12 hours minimum).

Thanks a lot for the words Rodrigo!

i do this after my bouldersession but only 2 times a week! sometimes only once a week depends on how many days im bouldering ;-)

It's Momentum! In Utah

NickLiang He meant rest for a few days to avoid over straining or injury and it can effect the nerves in people hands and fore arms as I've seen from other climbers who used to train too hard. They can no longer grip as well and have a serious tendon and ligament problems that won't go away with time.

He didn't say that it injures the nervous system, just that it's incredibly taxing (since we rarely use these muscles to such a strenuous degree on a daily basis)

Run, surf, cycle, longboard...

edvin jansson 🏞

Hugo Wehlin 🏕

edvin jansson 🌄

No he didn't. Minimum finger you can do, keep thumb away.