Thanks for this, great content. Don't want to be mean, just providing feedback... After about 60 or 70 ummm's I was going a little out of my mind. I just couldn't stop hearing them.
When you are talking about heart rates at high altitude, what are you classifying as high altitude? We are training for Denali, and want to see what adjustments there are for that elevation. Sorry If I missed you speaking about this
John: Yes, you will see a drop in HR for all intensity zones when operating at altitude. How much depends on how high and how well acclimated you are. So, there is no formula to tell how much to lower it as you go up. If you train a lot in Z1-2 you'll get a feeling for the perceived exertion and then when on Denali you can use that PE to control your efforts rather than HR. This article discusses things related to your question www.uphillathlete.com/goettlersteckkhumbutraining/ This should be of most concern to you in your training. You should find your AeT at the altitude you are training at. Set top of Z2 at this value.
This discussion was about guided climbs of Everest. I do not think anyone guides E w/o supplement Oxygen. Training for extreme altitude by-fair-means is a separate discussion which we've also talked a lot about on the UA platform. Thanks for checking this out. -Steve House
... more to the point, using fixed ropes installed by Sherpas who carry all your stuff. I would not consider I had climbed the mountain if that were the case. If I carried my own oxygen, ok. Not that I would ever consider such a thing from my armchair. Killian Jornet did it how it should be done, must have made all those feeling shit, being helped up, feel even worse when I skinny guy comes trotting passed them.
This seems very short sighted. Clearly everyone has their own ideas of what seems 'fair game', but your rules are arbitrary. What about carrying stuff to Basecamp? Travelling to Nepal in a plane? Wearing a downsuit? By wearing a downsuit are you reducing the mountain to that at lower altitude? If someone climbed Everest in the nude, would that be the new standard in terms of a clean ascent? Using ladders in the icefall? I could go on... The point is, there is no right or wrong answer, there is no 'proper way'.
