Transfer an Inkjet Print to Linoleum Block 

Very delayed reply, but I'd say give it a try! I like the body or viscosity of the gel medium and it was what I had on hand. It tends to lay down a little thicker and stickier, while fluid is designed to spread, but that might be a good thing for this method. If you tried it, let me know how it went!

Hi there! The paper I used to transfer the image is just printed on Staples brand Multipurpose 8.5 x 11" Paper from Staples. I imagine any copy or printer paper that is suitable for an Inkjet printer could work. I've heard of other artists working on glossy papers, but I've yet to try that.

@@Chcole88 thank you so much

Thanks for watching! :-) I have not tried it on silicone, but as many silicone objects are designed to be non-stick or are used for molding/casting, there's a chance it would work, but I imagine it wouldn't be permanent and could be peeled up easily, which could be great if you want to create a skin-like, slightly stretchy photograph to then use in a mixed media piece of some kind... so my guess is it depends on what you would like to do with it! You might sand the silicone to help with adhesion. If you try it, let me know how it goes!

Tried this it works a bit but indeed peels off so easily that it's almost more annoying than just tracing it with some graphite paper

@@Chcole88 Thanks for your reply. I really wanted to use it to fill the words engraved on a silicone wristband. If you have any options please let me know. I have searched for a silicone ink here in Malaysia but all I could see so far was sublimation ink or screen printing ink. I really need help in this area.

@@justaperson4699 I agree it does peel! For context, I made this video for a digital printmaking class to show how to transfer complex digital designs to lino without needing to trace for hours on end. So it's not meant to be permanent or perfect. It's similar to the Japanese method of gluing a drawing on thin washi to a woodblock, but the drawing sticks to porous wood better. So there are lots of variables to contend with- from the type of lino used, to whether it's been sanded, to if the medium is too thick it peels faster, and if your tools are not sharp enough to catch on your fingernails, the medium is more likely to stick to the tool and peel. Glad you gave it a try, you never know when it might come in handy!

@@adelekeadeleke9284 I don't think this would be a great method if the words are already debossed on a wristband. Maybe check with a manufacturer that makes silicone products- maybe try this channel? Hope you find the info you need! ru-vid.com/show-UCAQNCiyOUv-NOOhkpLcVVVw

I used a wet-dry sandpaper for this, I don't remember the exact grit, but I think was between 300 and 500 grit. I have a pack of sandpaper that goes up to 2000 that I used for polishing copper, but or lino 300 should be plenty fine enough for just abrading off surface oils and textures.

Update : i waited two hours and it worked !! thank you so much your video helped me alot

​@@linasaad5264 I'm so glad to hear! I usually say 24 to my students just to allow it to both dry and for it begin to cure and polymerize a little bit (it can take up to 2 months for acrylic polymer emulsions to fully cure!) so the longer one waits, the less likely it will be lifted once water is applied.