Changing the oil in the Power Transfer Unit (PTU) or transfer box on my 2009 Freelander 2 XS. Note, this is often wrongly called the front differential, but that is actually inside the gearbox.
Thanks for the video/advice - will be tackling this job tomorrow whilst doing the regular engine oil change - as far as refilling is concerned I reckon with the LR on front axle ramps the refill level should be about right at that angle with filling to the plug level 👍
Always ever so informative and detailed. Great watching all your DIY Landy tinkering! Only thing is now that's another one for me to be doing on my FL2... Great job and many thanks keep them coming mate. 👍
Hi, thanks for making these videos, they give other owners confidence to tackle these jobs! I did this on my drive, which slopes, and raised the front of the car onto sleepers, so the car was dead level. I think this may alter your full level by quite a lot compared to having it on ramps. Could you get four cut down sleepers to bump the car up level and give you access underneath, or four ramps? Great content on your channel, keep it coming and looking forward to your Haldex videos! 👏👏👏
Suppose when withdrawing 120ml after filling we need to be mindful of the fluid in the piece of hose on the end of the syringe (strictly speaking). I see Ravenol sells a syringe kit, so thanks for the video...will have to do the same job on my L359.
Great video, I need to do this job and wanted to see someone else doing it first - thanks! My main first decision is whether to first tap a drain plug in at the bottom or not.. however you have shown that it is possible to get fluid out from the top which is encouraging.
I may add a drain plug to mine. The fluid can be sucked out of the filler but difficult getting it all out. I’ve also learnt that you can brim the fluid with no bad effects. There is no need to remove some after filling.
@@BeavisPits Yes the advice to not brim it is interesting. Winchester gears say they think the advice was to keep it low enough to prevent leaking out the gear box seal (I asked them as a comment on their video) facebook.com/watch/?comment_id=2914870988816572&v=360545924496016¬if_id=1663496017743975¬if_t=comment_mention&ref=notif
I was thinking of adding a drain plug to the rear diff. When I drain the D2 diff oils the fist part of oil that comes out is much darker than the oil at the top. So I'm sure that not having drain plugs means that the crud isn't getting removed. A drain would be also good on the haldex Gen 4 ; watching videos on the VW haldex they have had the sense to add a drain and a refill plug.
Did this procedure last weekend - try as I might I could only get 300-400ml of syrupy brown fluid out with a syringe and replaced it with slightly more new? I still maintain that even this operation will be okay if I now do the same fairly regularly as it will have the benefit over time of blending the new fluid with the old.
Nice movie. Because I had problems using the syringe tube to empty I drilled through the bottom bolt hole on the side of the box making it a very easy job to take out the fluid and also getting the 120ml out. Still had to use the syringe to fill. Such an awkward position to work in without a lift ramp. One point though is to make sure the bolt is fluid proof when you've done, I used a spot of silicone sealer with a copper washer.
I’m about to replace the inter cooler hose at the front of the engine and it’s my intention to replace all with the silicon hoses over the next few weeks or months. Can I ask where you got your hoses especially the turbo hose you pointed out. Excellent videos by the way 👍. Very informative and well explained.
Thanks Stephen. Hose are from ebay… www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-FREELANDER-2-TD4-2-2-TURBO-TO-INTECOOLER-SILICONE-HOSE-PIPE-KIT-/291074371899?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m2548.l6249&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0
Thank you very much. Our front transfer box is getting noisy, so I'm going to try this, although I suspect it will need recon unit. I did laugh at "this has got to be shortest chapter in the Haynes' Manual" and "I've just got a face full of oil". I'll adopt the same approach as when I replaced our rear diff/Haldex 3 and have the car as level as possible on 3 ton axle stands and let you know if the oil goes in any easier. Is there a front Haldex that also needs servicing/oil?
Only one haldex, acting as a centre diff but located at the rear. I mistakenly call this video the front differential service. The front diff is actually inside the gearbox. This is the Power Transfer Unit which splits the front drive off at 90’ to go down the prop shaft to the rear.
@@BeavisPits thats great thanks. I did my haldex service this week as rear wheel was scrabbling while pulling away at low speed while turning. Was advised to see to it before it damages the diff. Wasnt a bad job took my time over couple days
Hi Beavis, sorry have you ever changed the timing chain? And if so, how many km? It seems to me that your land has the 2,2 engine like mine, or am I wrong? Thanks!
Yes, mine is 2.2 diesel, and I got a local garage to do my cam belt at 100,000 miles. It needs to be changed before 144,000 miles. I got mine done earlier as a safety precaution. I am not sure but I think there is a chain somewhere in the engine as well, but that is to drive the oil pump only and is not a part that needs to be renewed.
Thanks for the positive feedback. I’m not sure where to buy the filler plug itself, it isn’t usually replaced, only the copper washer underneath it. I would try ebay and Skan Automotive (used FL2 breaker), failing that LR themselves.
Thanks for the reply. Sorry, I meant how to access it. Did you put the syringe through the wheel arch? Because the video doesn’t show where you accessed it from.
Hi in was wandering you can help me. In have a 2.2 manual td4. 07 plate with 98k. I get a weird whirring on low revs at a certain rpm. Whether it's stationery or not also doesn't matter if in gear or not. Only does it at a particular rpm.
Sounds like it could be the turbo or the air duct/hoses. Whereabouts on the engine is the whirring sound coming from? Also, check the auxiliary drive belt and pulleys.
Hi mate. I'm going to be changing my ptu / front diff oil soon, love the video, I'm almost confident enough to do it lol, I'm a bit confused about drawing 120ml back out after filling to the level plug. I've seen a post on landyzone where someone drew out 62ml ( very specific 🤣 ) and a recent video from frenchies roadtrips where he fills up to the level and refits the plug. I'm not sure who to follow, is the 120ml thing advised by landrover? Thanks for the videos. 👍👍
The 120ml back out is in the haynes manual. I think it is to allow for heat expansion. The rear diff is fill to brim, the haldex is withdraw 70ml, although I have brimmed mine without issue. I’ll have to have a word with Mr French!
Ben French replied to me and said an LR garage told him it is fine to brim the front diff oil, no need to withdraw 120ml. I will look at this is an upcoming video.
@@BeavisPits thanks mate, I think I'll follow the Haynes as well, surely can't go wrong with that. I hope it doesn't cause any leaking seals for Ben's car. I tried commenting on his channel but for some reason it wouldn't send. All the best,
@@badrallach4792 By mistake I didn't withdrawn 120ml from front diff. , so far(20kkm after change) no leakages from transfer case but the original service manual for RR Evoque reffering to that need as well. Thermal expansion of the oil is only 4% of the volume for each 100F , so if I'm not wrong in our case 6%=45ccm/45ml(taking into concideration the total capacity of 0,75l), so either thermal expension is not the reason of this withdrawn or that shouldn't make any big impact. Any other ideas why they are asking to remove the 120ml ? BR KP
@@kamillop.7842 glad you've no leaks, I think it'll be one of these land rover mysteries. 🤣, think I've done around 6k miles since I did mine, no noise , no probs. Hey at least we have nice new oil in there. Can't be a bad thing. 👍👍 Happy New year to ya.
Hi watched your video on Front diff oil change, got 350 ml out of one and 650 out of other one, one had warm engine. Problem is getting the right amount back in. It trickles out from around 500ml, have left vehicle for half hour tried again but runs out, vehicles are almost level to work on. World it be worth running engine and trying to top up when oil is warm?
Just fill to brim and then you are meant to remove some, although I have heard of people just leaving it brimmed with no issues. RU-vidr “Frenchies Road Trip” did this and it was fine. Running the engine won’t really help as transfer box only turns when driving.
The oil is not very thick so probably won’t reduce the noise much. If the box has worn bearings/bushes then it should really be replaced. The splines on the output shafts are another known weakness.
Hi. I need only 1l Ravenol Transfer Fluid DTF-1 for front diff? I hear that is noisy. Today I unplug terrain response hose and nów driving is quiet. Meybe Oil replace Will help. What do you think?
I’m running BFG KO2 245/70R17 on 17” XS wheels. 5% larger circumference but speedo doesn’t seem to under-read. I checked it with a GPS speed app and it was bang on!
It needs to meet BOT118 spec. The Ravenol DTF-1 meets this. If the VSG oil meets it too then it could also be used. Manual gearbox is 75W90…is it possible the oil selector has mixed the two up?
@Beavis Pits Both oils RAVENOL VSG SAE and DTF-1 are 75W90. Why you belive DTF-1 meets BOT118? Currently, Ravenol does not declare BOT 118 for any(!) of them. I have just checked at official ravenol website, might something more is on the bottle. Old Ravenol TF-0870 probably have had BOT 118 specification but this product it is deprecated.
@@BeavisPits Genuine Castrol BOT118 oil bottle has API GL-5 mark on the back. And most oil manufacturers' configurators match GL-5 oils to PTUs (as Ravenol VSG SAE). Anyway I don't know where to confirm the information that TF-0870 specification is compatible with BOT118.
I did excessive amounts of research finding the best suitable alternatives for the Castrol BOT 118/95 oil, which is a 75W-90 GL-5 based oil but with a wider viscosity range. Besides products from Liqui Moly and Febi, the "Ravenol LS SAE 75W-90" is the one closest to the original OEM oil specifications! It is almost spot on!
Hi, where'd you get that syringe from? Im onto fluids next so need 1 or 2 of those syringes, probably one to extract one to fill to keep it as clean as pos. Can you not get to that filler point through the wheel arch with the wheel off?
That is a combination of oil from my catch can and oil from the intercooler hoses when I was recirculating the blowby gas for a few weeks. It may also be from some of the seals/gaskets. The engine is old and tired.
Not sure what you mean. I used the syringe to suck out the old oil and also to refill. The tube on the new oil bottle was not long enough to use without spilling a lot of oil.
@@BeavisPits I was talking about the suction tube that goes from the air filter to the turbine, is that better with what you put on? Sorry for my english but I am italian🤪😉
Yes, but I can’t fit under the car and don’t have a four post lift. This is the only way I can do it. Removing the fluid after is optional. Since making this video I’ve found out it doesn’t need to be done.
@@rickykent4543 yes, Bell Engineering no longer advise to remove fluid after filling. I brim mine, no issues and I know of quite a few others who do this too.
The front differential on a freelander 2 is inside the gearbox housing. The fluid that I’m changing in this video is for the transfer box or power transfer unit (PTU), which contains a bevelled pinion to send the drive 90° along the prop shaft to the rear, as well as across to the offside wheel.
