I had a repair on a customers car. After burning a bunch of brain cells I found the problem and at that point it was obvious someone had been working on it before I got there. I fixed the previous repair and it corrected the problem. I charged the customer a couple hours diagnostic charge, plus the time for the repair. When the customer came by to pick up the car I asked about the cobbled up repair. He looked at the floor and mentioned he had tried to fix it and failed, then brought it to me. I told him he could have saved a couple hundred dollars if he confessed that when he dropped it off!
Kenny ... excellent video. Mechanics like you are few and far between. Most dealers penalize you (flat rate robbery) by giving you all the hard cases!! My father was an old school mechanic. He knew electrical and was punished while the other mechanics got the brake jobs, tune ups, and simpler things. Your external microphone is fine. It sounds like you are over-modulating, and that should be simple setup to decrease the microphone sensitivity.
I'm sure the power tool dependent generation could use a tutorial on thread repair. The number one tip I have is don't start threaded fasteners with a power tool.
Helicoil, with the part needing repair held firm in a mill to do the locating, drilling, and threading. A well set up drill press can suffice as well. Anything done with a hand drill free-hand will make for an oversize hole that is weaker and looser threads. There is only one insert type that is FAA approved for full-strength thread repair - Helicoil. Solid inserts like EZ-Lok and Timesert will fail over time in any vibratory or thermal cycling application where a Helicoil will expand and contract with the parts in vibration and thermal cycling. Pretty much all applications are vibratory and thermal cycling.
@@BillyWillicker I worked on avionics where the cover screws, and any threaded parts going into the aluminium main castings, were all equipped with helicoils from the factory. 100 M4 inserts per unit, just for the 2 covers. Electric screwdriver was the first tool I bought, though I did make my own driver, using a long hex wrench with the angle cut off, and brazed into a brass hex spacer that was 1/4in across flats, and fitted the screwdriver. Long, as I knew i would have wear, so a quick grind of the worn end made it new again. Did have to replace the gearbox in the driver, the new Black and Decker gearset was powdered metal, instead of the plastic of the original, and lasted a long time, inserted with lots of light grease to help, unlike the original.
Good job finding and correcting a previous poor repair. I had a similar instance where the customer had replaced a solenoid in a 6R80 for a circuit code. After their "repair" it had a circuit code for the solenoid right next to it. It ended up being damage to the main transmission connector on the harness side from a further previous "repair" before the customer had owned the truck. I replaced the transmission/O2 harness and the vehicle was reliable afterwards. When it comes to transmission work, you have to thoroughly diagnose prior to dropping the pan. That means road test with a gauge and scantool in a second tech's hands on the drive. Proper pressure/scantool diag would have pointed you to that solenoid specifically before dropping the pan.
This was on par with a Fordtechmakuloco video. Great job finding the solution to this problem. I will add this, when replacing the pan bolts into the transmission, a light coat of anti seize goes a long way for getting them back out later. Steel bolts into an aluminum case here in the Midwest is corrosion trouble.
Thank you for going back to you original microphone system. Your voice is now as clear as a bell. I have really enjoyed watching this F150 series. You cannot buy the experience that you have and it makes for a great watching AND learning experience. Thank you once again.
Following this particular repair,has been such a pleasure! It's been almost like a murder mystery LOL. Couldn't wait til the end. ABSOLUTELY AMAZING . Love it
Torque converter bolt holes,GM and Chrysler have one that is an egg shaped hole.Line up this hole tightening this bolt up and the other bolt holes line up
As for presenting helicoils and threaded inserts, your opinion is welcome, especially when and when to not use them. Removing screws, broken bolts, and studs can create more damage when done incorrectly.
Good morning Mr Kenny hope y'all have a great day. Was waiting on the solenoid for the transmission myself lol. Parts sometimes seem to take forever to get here
I'm sticking by my notion that your phone's mics all updated their drivers when you tried the bluetooth trick, and that's what cut the sound out a couple vids ago. the audio quality is distinctively brighter. and thanks for the torque wrench reminder, I actually went and double checked mine (I've hit a lot of lug nut idiodicy, usually overtorqued via ugga-duggaing and idiodic capped lugs)
I really enjoyed that Mr. Kenny. Now if you could change out a pump on a 2006 Ford escape, in the vehicle in enjoy that too. Mine is peeing a fine stream of fluid out of a rusted pump end cover
Your mic sounds good to me both ways i see other people say you sound bad maybe it your mic not friendly with what they are watching you on be it a table, cell, are smart tv i am using a Samsung tablet and you are great
Great job 👏,,I wish most mechs were this honest in houston ,,every 1 here tells you need a rebuild for over 2500 dollars 💸 3500 4500 for heavy duty 😂,,1 of my friends have gone for 2 trans 1 fully rebuilt diff when he only needed axle bearings
2 observations on my part, one is it seems that you are the one who is always fixing someone else's problem (someone has been there before) and you have such patience. I did notice when you used the tranny lube that you said "Let's pray it stays there". I was praying too. Mrs. Wrenching really came through for you on the one tool item. She (Meg) is a good woman...how is she doing now? Great job Kenny and super video. Oh, one more thing...can't you get a co-worker to hold that valve body in place while you install the screws?
Hopefully the customer learned that telling the entire and truthful story up front saves him/her both time and money and saves the mechanic from chasing red herrings. This customer is extremely lucky the majority of this repair was warrantied. If i were the customer I'd also be going back to have a few choice words with whoever changed that solenoid and moved that plate before.
Great video! I just subscribed to your channel. 😊 I guess there is no need to program the solenoid? Also, if you replace the valve body, does the valve body need to be programmed? Thanks.
@0:52…looks to me the person that was in there last time replaced the solenoid 2nd from the left… it looks different from the rest, probably an Amazon special POS, and they installed the capture plate in the wrong location.
Non mechanic so this will be stupid question, does each solenoid have a different function and are specific when changing out and also do they need to be placed in exact opening ? If so how do you know which solenoid is for what?
I have installed a lot of heli-coils and do not like to install them in aluminum as they seldom hold even with Loctite 212. I would rather bore out to the next larger size and tap.
After watching your videos on the 5.3 with the ticking I am wondering what my issue is My 5.3 has the ticking after having the lifters replaced But the ticking noise is only when In drive and accelerating It does not tick while in park
No trans mission dip stick cost savings I can see , but how do they justify key fobs, & miserable electronics? Oh wait, I forgot they make money fixing , or at least providing parts for stuff nobody wants in the first place! Must be those pesky customer surveys that don't get filled out correctly ., you know the same ones that report everyone"s transmission is going out , or paint is peeling, or pick one!
I did not look at all the comments, but I rewound because you did not torq one of the electrical plate bolts look at time stamp, 12:27 through 13:03 you torqued a bolt that was already tight, the bolt in the upper right-hand corner at time stamp was never torqued 12:09 or 12:30 bolt time stamp. Ooops.
We can all see you enjoy sharing your knowledge and experience and it is appreciated, but, can ya give us a hint at how much money youtube is making for you. 🤣
What a mess that shouldn't have happened. If all of the information was known up front, then the repair probably would not have taken so long. Also, if you look at the solenoid bank early in the video before the solenoid issue was found, you can just see the misalignment of the solenoids.
100% caused by a previous repair. They changed out that oddball solenoid that is second from the left and didn't pay attention to the bracket placement.
