Hey man thank you very much for the kind words I appreciate! it and yes I'm still making videos I'd just I'm waiting on some parts currently I did wind up with a severely broken leg about a month ago so I haven't really been on my feet able to do a whole lot. but there will be some more content of some rebuilds and a few other things keep your eyes open for it! Keep on burning Nitro!!! 🍻🤘🏻💯
They won't tell you anything because they don't want to get caught in their own nonsense there are very shifty company like that they change things without saying anything telling you it was an improvement in reality it was a downgrade
Thank you so much for the information you know your share 💯🔥 Little background off myself .I own a company in the us building Supercross and motocross engines and suspension but this Nitro (catalytic ) engine thing is a hole different learning animal my new fuel trim adjustment but me and you have been a huge help building well one that has been apart for a few years and missing a ton of parts . Buy a rolling chassis off of eBay rolling chassis with engines just trying to gather Parts together ended up with three . A pro 15 with a barrel carb ,2.5 and today 3.3 only 1 rolling chassis with tank exhaust other 2 with remote and receiver . Anyways I learned a ton of stuff off your videos totally trust what you say thank you for sharing your knowledge the go-to guy in my book 💯👍👍👍 love the keep burning Nitro!!
Hey brother thank you very much for watching I really appreciate it! and the glow side of the 2 stroke spectrum is pretty fun to play with it can be a little bit confusing at first but once you understand it you can pretty much too and anything!! The old Tmaxx stuff is so easy to work with it's one of the easiest to get Familiar with and learn from an upgrade your skill from there!
Dude I love your videos. Found you last week, so glad I did. And you know your shit as opposed to most people who just think they know their shit. Thanks for posting man. You answered all my questions and then some. Any idea about the muffler between a 3.3 and 2.5r? They look exactly the same. I have a muffler that came on my 2.5 I'd like to use on my 3.3.
Hey thank you very much for the kind words I really appreciate it! glad you found what you were looking for! And yes you can use the exhaust from a 2.5 on a 3.3 as they are exactly the same if it's the plastic pipe upgrade to the aluminum tuned pipe they are much better! Also if you want a little more snot out of your 2.5R put a 3.3 crank in it. No modifications required and noticeably better performance. 😉🍻👌🏻
just bought a used dirty trx 15 from ebay $25 bux lol dont know if it runs waiting on delivery but piston sleeves are cheap! thanks for explaining this, good work as always!
whats up my fellow Nitro Motor Expert! I'm very glad you pointed out that the 2.5 and 3.3 use the same conn rod, it's the same part number if you ever tried to replace one, that's how you know. I've never had any traxxas motor destroy itself, ofcourse I run Rich Like the Ex President - Donald Trump. Gonna have to lean my fuel mixture to match the new Socialist presidential of the USA.
Hey man II mean it's like anything if you take your time with it during the break in process look after in the last the longest but the new connecting rod isn't the best design the world and they're aware of that just a few other things it's been a Hot Topic on and off for the last handful years
No problem! Abd if you need further help with anything I have a rc group on Facebook nitro/diesel/gas rc and more if you want to check it out just 2 questions and I will let you in
So glad I never got the 2.5R. Always just got the 2.5. I'm on my 3rd engine in 8 years. Typically get around 6 gallons through them before compression loss becomes noticeable with power loss and wanting to not idle. At that point I swap them out for a fresh engine. Thinking I might try another engine on my T-Maxx classic that is a little less finicky on carb tuning and has a little more wheelie power :-)
6 or 8 gallon is normal but. If you run a premium quality fuel like a 20 or 30% with no more than 12% oil and brake them in nice and slow using the atom Drake method with a preheat and heat cycles burning a quart of fuel they will tune better and perform better and last longer. Also the os LC3 glow plug is what they like I do change out the rod pin and bearings at 2.5 or 3 gallons it keeps them happy same with the losi 3.4 carburetor and a aluminum tuned pipe kit
I just bought. New in box 2.5r for 100$. It's going to replace my worn 2.5. This is going in my old S-MAXX 2.5. While a 3.3 would be nice. I'm more a electric guy nowadays. Any fresh engine will do for my application.
I had the Revo 2.5 and sold it a long time ago. Was thinking about getting back into it. Found one at a good price but I was wonder cam you take the sleeve, cam, piston, ect from a 3.3 and put it in a 2.5? Would you even save money doing it like that of you could? Thank you by the way for this video. Subscribed
Yeah Hey thank you very much for the sub I really appreciate it and know you cannot put the 3.3 parts in a 2.5 some of the parts are interchangeable but some are not. You can put a 3.3 crank in the 2.5 other than not much else
@@thebug4046 i got to looking at the difference as far as inside. I didn't realize the size difference to be honest. I appreciate the reply. I use to take the one I had apart all the the to clean it but I never owned the 3.3 although I had been looking at getting one I had found another 2.5 and thought of I ever wanted to upgrade I better get to looking into the difference between the two first and found your video. It really did help a lot.
What are your thoughts on the RB mods connecting rod for the TRX 3.3? I bought the RB Rod and Boca ceramic bearings, installed them two years ago but yet to run the engine.
That honestly sucks. I was looking on the RB mods website and couldn’t find it. Then I watched another one of your videos and you mentioned RB stopped making rods AND the Davis diesel rods are no longer available because he unfortunately passed away.. I should’ve bought a Davis diesel when I had the chance, just in case I decide to keep running a 3.3.. Sad the two only people making reliable rods for the Traxxas 3.3 engine and they’re both out of business. Hopefully this RB Rod lasts me a bit otherwise I’m looking into alternative engine options.
Hearing this info raises a question for me. Can I run a .15 piston and sleeve with a 2.5 connecting rod with a 3.3 crank in my TRX 2.5 block to make a mut engine?
@@thebug4046 thanks for getting back to me man, I'm brand new to Nitro but I've been in the hobby for over 25 years, I just picked up four used t-max's last night and I'm going to repower one of them with a new 2.5 engine, found your channel last night it is super helpful I subscribe.
Damn, there are zero Losi 3.4 carb and zero os 11k carbs anywhere. eBay horizon tower Amazon you name it. I’m ready to do what you suggested to my 2.5 3.3 crank and the above carbs.
The 3.4 carb has be discontinued for about 10 years now. The 11k is in and out of stock because all the 3.3 guys want em apparently RC Japan has them but I haven't bought from them as no shipping to Canada 🙄 but just keep your eyes open all over the place they pop up. Also check the OS website. And the 3.3 crank swap is a nice little upgrade. The 2.5 response very well to it
My biggest pet peeve with this engine was the lazy design for the price of the engine . With that said I saw a good improvement by using an os .18 carb . Better response and idle
Hey man im admin in the Nitro RC enthusiasts group on Facebook you will see my post guy with sunglasses L.S hit me up on Facebook we will have a Is chin wegg for sure! I'd love to see what you're working with. I used to race old motocross bikes and basically anything with em engine 👌🏻🍻🤘🏻💯
Just broke in my TRX 2.5R went very well. Way better then the 3.3 did. Only problem it got hot around 280 towards the 5th tank in break in. So i shut it off and let it cool. And then just idle it for few seconds. To allow to cool interesting to see how idle brings the temp down.
It's like any engine when it's just sitting at low rpms without any lode on it it's not gunna get very hot. I find a preheat and keeping the cylinder head wrapped up and let it get into the 250°f area at idle for 4 tanks then start driving it for another 6 tanks seems to do the job like the Adam drake method
@@thebug4046 i was going to do the Adam drake Method but went with the traxxas break in. But used VP racing 20 percent Master Basher fuel. So hoping i get at least 8 gallons or more out of it. If not ill install Dynamite mach 2
@@nighthawkj30A4 swap out the basher fuel it doesn't have any benefits and requires leaner tuning and will run hotter. Basher fuel is basically for people that don't know what they are buying. Run a 20/9 or 30/9 blend or keep under 12% oil it will tune and perform much better run cooler as well. When you get to a gallon or so replace the rod pin and bearings as they are usually warn after that amount of time and it will tighten everything up and keep it lasting a long time. And if you can find a upgrade carb and a 3.3 crank it will wake it up quiet a bit
@@thebug4046 i have gallon of VP 20/9 should i run that instead i want to be able to see if the 2.5 durability. Is better then the 3.3 Master basher fuel i use has nice Purple color and the race one is clear.
Dam this makes me angry. Ima boycott traxxas stuff. I own a tmaxx but it has almost no traxxas stuff left, it is a full xtm big block overhaul with a 457 motor. However thanks for all this info, didn't know much about traxxas engines.
Pretty common upgrades with those for sure they're sweet when they're done upright but yeah they don't tell the truth about a lot of stuff it's all marketing and sales they relied you being stupid which is pretty pathetic
Go with a quality fuel 30% nitro no more than 12% oil avoid Traxxas fuel and avoid Traxxas brake in method go with the atom Drake method on on RU-vid it's better for the engine will make it Last longer and run better also best glow plug is OS LC3
@@thebug4046 damn thank you so much I got a new car and used top fuel but I felt like it’s dirty, but I’m receiving a jato 3.3 soon so I’ll switch it up, any brand suggestions all they have is power master and top fuel at my local rc shops, but I do have Amazon here located in Los Angeles
@@sevenreviews Yes avoid top fuel all cost it has 18% oil which might sound like it's good for the engine it's actually worse as will tune leaner and run hotter that fuel also has a lot of added die which makes the engine very dirrty and stains the internal parts it's also more corrosive and made from poor quality ingredients used only as fire starter look up bones brew and buy that instead I am not sure if you're in any RC groups but I have one that you could join on Facebook called nitro/diesel/gas rc and more we can show you the good stuff
@@sevenreviews Stick with a race fuel avoid basher fuel it's not worth it it doesn't have any benefits it's basically different people that don't know what to buy nitro % isn't really important it's more the oil % between 8 and 12% is all you need that's plenty! More than you actually think
This video is great! I'm fairly new with rc engines and this helped me out a lot! Much appreciated 🙏 Speed wise how much more speed in mph would be the difference between the 3.3 and 2.5r?
@@thebug4046 Thank you! Once last thing, I'm thinking to converting the 2.5r engine to 3.3 do I have to change the transmission? Or am I able to keep the stock 2.5 transmission with the new engine?
200$ for one they do absolutely nothing! You can't boost these engines because all the ports are open at the same time you loose your so called boost out the exhaust you will make more power running a good quality 30/8 fuel a good tuned pipe and some tuning If those fake super chargers actually worked everybody would be using them if you take 1A partly does have a little cheap 3-D printed plastic fan and side they make 0
do you see any improvements from port and polish on this engine and what about shaving weight in the 3..3 on the skirt of the piston and the pert on the 3.3 crank for less reciprocating weight?
Polishing the sleeve doesn't do anything and the problem with the 3.3 2.5 is the piston is very thin and will fail if modified. As for having professional port work on the crankshaft and in the block as well as a upgrade carburetor bearings pipe and fuel and a HD connecting rod will make the biggest difference
@@thebug4046 got it ,ill start building my moded 3.3 for my tmax tomorrow should be fun gonna build it out of two 2'5 and on 3.3 with a losi carb and ill have to get a ths pipe because i am now a big fan after running it on my new os 21 today sound amazing
So one of my head bolt holes in my 3.3 is stripped. I have an old 2.5 engine block. Will the crank, sleeve, piston and rod from a 3.3 fit in the 2.5 crankcase. I don’t know if the porting is the same
The crankshaft yes rod yes but the piston and sleeve won't fit the 2.5 block. JRC on eBay has new blocks with bearings for cheap. Ps a 3.3 crankshaft in a 2.5 definitely makes it perform better 😉👌🏻
I did some research on the 2.5 and the 2.5r and I dug up an 2.5 from 20 yrs ago and found out that when the 2.5r came out it was different from the standard 2.5 and that traxxas started putting the 2.5r piston and sleeve in there regular 2.5 several years back which I did some looking and can’t find when they started doing that exactly and they just did away with the original 2.5 internals and started selling 2.5r rebuild kits. The real only difference from the old 2.5 was the ports and a better head. I was wondering if you ever seen the difference from the 2.5 when they first came out decades ago
There was a lot of talk about it but the measurements even from 20 plus years ago we're exactly the same although they're claimed different from the manufactured to saw you something like a pretty blue cylinderhead
I was wondering if you can help me out with a question. Will a 3.3 Tmaxx transmission fit in a 2.5 Tmaxx. I have both trucks I didn’t want to tear them apart to find out. I know the clutch bell a spur gear is different so is the internal gear ratio the same basically wondering if it would fit would I have to adjust the gearing also. It’s alot I’m asking but I can’t think of anyone that would know but you
Back in 2009 I flipped my T Maxx 2.5 upside down and the throttle was stuck wide open and before I could get to it it broke the connecting rod. It wasn’t to bad to rebuild. I wonder if anyone else has had that happen.
I have a traxxas nitro 4-tec and it has the .15 in it. I contacted traxxas and can do the power up mod with it so should I just keep the .15 in it or upgrade it to the 2.2 or the 3.3. I know it needs the other little parts they sell for like $25. I just don't know which way to go.
Love the info. Have 2 cars to build and this Maybe be a stupid a$$ question but…. Will the 3.3 p/s fit the 2.5? I have a 2.5 that has a munted piston and a 15 pro that I have rebuilt but can not get it to start, has compression but I think the sleeve is worn well as piston moves very easily. Not really in the position to spend $100+ AUD just on a piston & sleeve being a single father but was offered a 3.3 p/s for a good price. Just the matter of will it fit the 2.5 or not…
Thanks for watchin! And sorry no the piston and sleeves are not interchangeable between the 15 2.5 or 3.3 all tho the blocks look the same they are very different
@@thebug4046 thank you for answering my question. I kinda figured that would be the case but still thought I’d ask the question anyway.. The prices I see people nabbing good buys in the US all the time and prices look really good then I have to convert it to AUD then it’s not so appealing haha. Just really want to get this first build finished but got the trouble of trying to find a good cond running engine or reasonably good priced engine is proving difficult…
@@brents4l1s93 Dude I completely understand where you're coming from I'm in Canada and we get treated like a foreign country when it comes to buying stuff from they get fast and free shipping for a $2 item and that same $2 item is now $8 here and the shipping will be almost $25 with an import fee so you really have to look around to find the best deals drives me insane! Considering I'm only 35 minutes from the border but I'm not allowed across it
@@thebug4046 it’s ridiculous isn’t it. A trx 2.5 ranges from $249 to $310 AUD here plus postage and can get one for $170USD ($250Aud) in the states from Traxxas for eg but they don’t ship here. Or I can get just The p/s for a 25 here but they want $120. For an extra 50 odd bux I could get a cheap 15 force motor or something like that. Just doesn’t make sense. Not to mention people start getting a little greedy when it comes to selling 2nd hand motors but I do understand why at times tho.
@@brents4l1s93 Yeah that's about what we pay the 3.3 is $320 Canadian the 2.5 is 250$ I think I rebuild them for about 125$ i will basically run anything I can get my hands on
So could you take the Pro. 15 sleeve and piston and throw it in a 3.3 block with the 3.3 crank and connecting rod to get best of both? Or am I just way off?
@@nc2827 someone It was commenting that they bought a pro 50 in sleeve and piston for a 3.3 and a bunch of other parts and then realized what they had on hand was just a pile of useless parts because nothing was even remotely interchangeable haha
Yup. My point was people keep asking if they could use the rod out of the 15 in the 2.5 and 3.3 witch you can't because it's Physically shorter. And the fact that the 15 has a larger bore and shorter stroke then the 2.5 witch has a longer stroke and smaller bore. It's a very commonly asked question that I tried to make as easy as possible for people to understand.
That's because whoever stated that is an idiot I run the same plug in my 2.5 R and many other people do it's lack of tuning skills that destroys engines not the plug. The only difference between it and the factory plug is its made by a different company and its better quality
@@thebug4046 ok I just knew you said the piston an sleeve was actually bigger in the .15 so I didn't know if you could do like a Frankenstein on it lol so if you do the 3.3 crank in the 2.5 will the 2.5 out perform the 3.3
@@marcbrister733 the pro 15s are completely different from the 2.5 or 3.3 absolutely nothing is compatible between them. The 15 and 2.5 are both the same displacement with different bore and stroke and all that. But like I was mentioning if you want more from your 2.5 add a 3.3 crank os lc3 plug a half decent pipe and fuel and they pull hard!!
I'm fairly new to the Nitro world and I'm in a situation where I have like three rustlers I also have a couple Point 15 Motors and a couple 2.5 motor and I'm trying to cross build nothing is just working out and all the information that people are telling you especially when you go to the shop they're saying that they're exactly the same and they're not pretty much you're telling me the point 15 motor I mean I looked inside this thing and it looks pretty indestructible
If as far as the truck itself yes they were basically all the same on that model the engines however are all different. I have full rebuild video on the 15 2.5 and 3.3 and a lot of other stuff you might really need to watch! Most hobby stores are absolutely full of shit and poor advice and lack of knowledge
Also I do have a Facebook group nitro/diesel/gas rc and more. If you want to check it out just 2 questions to answer and I will let you in im the owner
Can't send links in RU-vid. Google OS 11K carburetor for the 2.5 or 3.3 and SH 18 carburetor for the pro 15 engine. Run a quality 30% nitro os lc3 glow plug will make a big difference. And if you have a 2.5 put the OS 11K carburetor and 3.3 crank in i it will give it better performance.
i went to my hobby shop after this video and they where calling me a liar and the .15 is not biger and that 3.3 parts wont work in the 2.5 lol next time i go am going to bring the piston and sleeves@@thebug4046
@@useless844 They don't sound very knowledgeable to be honest if they can't figure out that the pro 15 is just measured in Ci or cubic inches rather than Cubic centimeters or CC hahaha but yeah the 15 is not interchangeable with the 2.5 or 2.5R. Quick math that .15ci = 2.5cc the 3.3 is .20ci or 3.3cc it's much bigger then the 15 or 2.5
Have you thought about building a 2.5 block with a 3.3 crank. Pro .15 piston/sleeve. 2.5/3.3 connecting rod. O.S. 11k carb. It would equal out to a .16 ci. .160642 to be exact. Yea I know you can just buy the 3.3 and it be bigger but blah blah blah. It’s the cool factor of making something run that wasn’t intended to. Kinda like putting a Chevy 400ci crank into a 350 block making a 383 stroker engine.
@@davidleerussell286 unfortunately it won't the sleeve OD is different and the height as well and the port timing between both blocks is also very different as well as port placement and shape the pin bores in the pistons are different as well the inner bore size and pin Height you would have to get into some very custom Machining work for any of it to be remotely close it probably could be done but it wouldn't really be worth it unless you wanted to spend a grand or so im sure you know the pro 15 and 2.5 are both the same displacement the 3.3 and 2.5 crankshaft is the same other then one flows more air so basically you would just wind up with a really expensive 2.5 lol
@@davidleerussell286 no problem I run lots of the pro 15s in my rc10gts and stuff i put a good exhaust upgrade carburetor and glow plug run a quality fuel and they run awesome! I just did a handmade connecting rod for one and have been testing on it
@@thebug4046 i only have one car with a 2.5 but I barely run that car for the people who do have a 2.5 that they care about that would be nice, I'm gonna do that same setup on my 3.3 slash
Can I get your honest opinion on this engine? I have had 2 t Maxx 2.5s, both ran great for about 3 gallons. Broke them in correctly and everything after 3 gallons the second one I bought just won’t efffin run! Starts and runs great until it warms up then won’t idle won’t stay running loses power no more weelies. Like wth is wrong with this engine?!?!?!? Have gone threw 4 engines they all do the same thing run good for a few gallons then runs like shit and not even fun to play with anymore
If it shuts off when hot it's worn out and sadly not worth rebuilding trad them in to Traxxas and get a new one for 30% off also avoid Traxxas fuel it's garbage fuel to much oil runs lean and hurts engine life and performance also avoid there brake in method us the atom Drake method it's better longer slower break in process will make for a engine that last longer and runs better! For fuel run a good quality fuel with no more than 12% oil with 20 or 30% nitro glow plug use a OS LC3 glow plug i do have a Facebook group nitro/diesel/gas rc and more i have a lot of other videos explaining this most of my engines have about 10 gallons or more
@@thebug4046 I have a new 2.5r in the box but the one that came on the truck just got broke in, on the 6th gallon and never run lean but once. Had the fuel pinch thingy closed and forgot to unhook it. Maybe that’s why it’s ruined?? Should I even try this 2.5r? I’ve been thinking going OS .21 from what I hear it’s an ok engine and isn’t so sensitive. Almost ready to sell it after having 2 of them and 4 engines do ALLL THE SAME THING
I’ve got almost 1200$ in this truck and honestly it’s not worth it and if I sell it I highly doubt I’ll get 500 even with extra new back up parts I have Incase something brakes. I’m a little fed up with the thing
@@littogreen7304 you can honestly get better trucks for cheap that are faster and the OS engines are awesome high quality Japanese made the Traxxas engines are not very good quality you get good ones and bad ones also running to rich is not good for them either if you run them to cool they don't come up to operating temperature and where's them out faster don't tune by temperature ever! Tune to where it runs best and cold plugs will make for lean tuning and not good for it also don't lean out in cold weather to get temperature bad Idea but like I said Jon my group and we can help you much better
@@thebug4046 that’s crazy I never would have guessed running to rich would hurt them. That’s probably my issue I’ve always stayed on the safe side and kept it kinda rich to NOT damage it. I don’t have Facebook had some ex gf problems with it. Immature crazy woman stuff. Might make new paige one day. I took a screen shot of your advice and will definitely try it.
@@Fr33dom89 the pro 15s seem to out live mostly everything haha but the 2.5 can last a very long time if you break it in properly and tune properly. The 2.5 makes more power though
@@Fr33dom89 avoid Traxxas fuel or basher fuel. Grab a fuel with 20 25 or 30% nitro no more than 12% oil and OS LC3 Glow plug and on RU-vid look for the Adam drake break in procedure
Yup you can or anyone else can put it to the test people like to believe the 2.5R is faster and the fun part is everything is all matching part numbers other than the cylinder heads Which one is CNC blue aluminum but the combustion chamber sizes for identical just a big lie and rip off
