The fuel line, is callled a "bump stop" it stops the bottom out effect where the rolling energy is increased by the bottoming out. You are basically adding an integrated bump stop, something that most decent coil over manufacturers on real cars do.
Most off-road shocks (King, Fox, Sway-away etc.), do not have an internal bump-stop. Since they don’t they rely on a separate bump stop and/or limit straps.
Personally, i have a 4x4 slash and i have never ever broke one of those and i have had mine for like 5 or so years. The gearbox tho, thats a different story
I’ve done this to my Erevo V1 I make my shocks like yours. Me running on street and dirt no jumps. With the weight of the erevo what shock spring/oil would you recommend?
Thanks for that. I have been wondering which oil weights I should be using when I rebuild my shocks. What do you use in the rear? If you dont mind me asking!!
It’s called less droop and it allows more weight to be transferred to the front or rear of the car. Got my information from XXX Main Chassis Setup Guide.
roddas26 Na, Sag is how much drop in travel there is when the static weight of the car/person’s weight is on the chassis. The original comment is closer to what this mod is. Essentially limiting the overall travel of the shock.
Did this to my 2wd rustler but I used the extra shock pistons and it worked perfectly. Also put the rpm 4x4 rear carriers on my rusty and they take a beating compared to the stockers
The part I used to always break, is the drive shafts especially when I go 3s , and that’s mainly on the stampede 4x4 Vxl, but not any more I have steel mip cvds installed front and back
For those wondering, as o-rings have been mentioned- in the harbor freight oring multi-pack you’ll want the smallest o-ring A005 it’s 3/32”x15/64”x9/128” this will give a snug fit!
I just bought 2 Slash RWD cars for my daughter and I to start racing locally and since the class does not allow for any part upgrades, the shop said focus on tuning shocks. I bought heavier oil, but the half rebound seems like an incredible upgrade especially since these things just have insane amounts of body roll out of the box. I just rebuilt her Rustler (4x4) shocks, and I wish I would have found this video first. I might go back and set her shocks up like this. My E-Revo 2.0 VXL is the next on the list for some shock rebuild love.
Nicholas John i bet the guys in your area are already doing this and not telling anyone. Originally this class was designed to be cheap. Its still cheap with fuel line in your shocks ;)
No offense to this guy at all but what you are essentially doing is internally limiting the overall travel of the shock (on the rebound to be exact). This will indeed help with rollover since it makes the CG lower now. However, you’ve now got less overall travel. Also, for people asking if you can just add a spacer like the ones supplied for the outside of the shock: Yes, it will make for less body roll but you are now putting the CG higher making it even easier to rollover. Also, you now have stiffer suspension as a result (could be good or bad). The best thing to do is get the lower CG chassis or adjust where the shock attaches to the A-arm. This way you keep the most travel, you don’t have to change the spring-rate and you’re not trading one fix for the other. The truck to tuning is to isolate the “problem” and find a way to fix it without it affecting/effecting? Lol other characteristics in a negative way.
Hey Mark good video like always. But I wonder if you could help me. I have a 2x4 slash 25 turn motor. I than upgraded it to a monster slash with 2.8 tires vxl motor and 3s batteries. Now I have gone thru 2 tranny housings 4 clutch kits. When I install everything new after 2 minutes after driving the clutch is rally hot and will melt the tranny housing. I have the slipper clutch set to 1/4 turn out so it don’t slip. Still gets so hot that I can not drive the Rc. What am I doing wrong
This is what happens with improper suspension preload. You're forcing it into the proper suspension position and losing travel in the process. I would sooner cut the spring.
I don't have any off road cars, I have the Losi 22s Summit Drag Camaro, and the Traxxas Drag Slash I got into R/C racing very recently because of the drag cars. But I have subbed to your channel because, of the enormous amount of information in your videos. I've heard of that shock trick before in one of the drag race videos, but I didn't know what it meant to have fuel line in your shocks. I knew there was oil in my shocks, but fuel line?? Well now I know what they meant, and how to do the upgrade. Thanks from a newbie to the R/C hobby.
Cool upgrade.. I appreciate what you are doing for your sons. I did the same thing only I started then on Tamiya kits the way I did and that way they built the whole car. I got them their first nitro in 08 which was the Tmaxx and they were able to strip the car and rebuild without looking at the manual. I wanted them to understand the concept on an engineering standpoint before they got RTR that was race ready. I wish Traxxas had a kit but in today’s world where everyone’s busy they don’t have the time nor patience to truly learn the way I did in 1983 when I started. I’m my opinion if you want to teach your children mechanical inclinations then get them a Tamiya or Kyosho and when they are ready to race at that level then get them a Traxxas. Great video thanks for the tip!
Thanks Mark, how did you come up with this solution? Just inerested in the story, i've heard of people putting the fuel line on the outside of the shock like a limiter, i think the stock 2wd has them on the rear shocks. Is this a different scenerio that im talking about?
Gotta have the droop though to properly use the physics of the suspension on jumps. The more throw a shock has, the more cusion it can provide on landing. Just thicken the oil on the car. It's way too light out of the box anyway. Then if that doesn't work you can get a sway bar kit for it or fashion one out of piano wire!😁
Old video, but looks like a worth while mod. I would have thought there might be an issue with using a silicone tube that is submersed in a silicone oil. But if not, cool. 🙂
But they are not made of ABS and won't be changed in anyway with boiling. That is an extremely old and obsolete trick. Because now they are made from fiber reinforced nylons.
All you have to do is get little O-rings and do the same thing to it it's got to know how many to put in there and you can tune it better instead of that fuel line the Marines are cheaper
I have owned a Slash, Bandit, and I'm currently souping up my second Stampede. Not once have I broken a rear hub carrier. I have broken front steering and suspension components multiple times on each, however.
Lockdown spinning my setup is for both , I use a lcg chassis and in the shock i use one or two rod ends ball in the shocks . I drag race so it will bring your arm straight and make the car more stable.
I was surprised when you revealed what breaks most often. As a 4x4 Slash owner, I was curious since I've been bashing mine for years. But I was surprised because those carriers have never been a problem on mine but mine came as a Platinum edition, meaning all four corners have Traxxas aluminum parts. Just figured I'd mention this if you don't mind laying out the coin, and want to fix it for good.
I know this video has been out a while but yes this helped out a ton now I can't even hardly get my slash to roll over. Thanks for the tip. And if people want to know I used 1/4 inch fuel line on each shock with 50w oil.
Yeah, that is a great mod, done to both mine and my son's Slashes, he gets the biggest benefit from this mod, as he doesn't modulate his throttle very well, and now doesn't roll nearly as much.
No, adding more shock collars would add more compression and would exacerbate the roll-over problem he's trying to correct. He's basically lowering the car for cheap with this mod.
