I run the proline power stroke shocks on my slashito with the stock green springs that come with the shocks. 45wt Losi oil up front, 40wt rear. I've tried four different types of shocks before these. This is by far the best shock setup for my truck.
Thanks for sharing great testing info. Nice to see a practice and testing session. Flip that hinge pin 180 and come in from the front you will never have a problem
A lot of guys with the new Raptor R (just a stretched slash ultimate) are running with Traxxas GTR shocks with VG racing springs. Based on what I've seen, best suited for high grip or asphalt. I'm running GTRs with Traxxas blue stripes....they seem to be very well suited for our local bumpy, lower grip outdoor track
Man so good as usual, comparing and contrasting at the same time as explaining your findings..and showing the parts. Thank you soo much for your awesome content.
Nice work as always. I replace the OG shocks on my 4x4 Slash a while back. It handles and drives er, normal now. I really am considering putting the OG shocks back on cause I liked the way it handled before, all leany and wallowy, and I don't race it.
I am running my slash 2wd on indoor high bite carpet. I got tires right. I just need to get suspension right. Sway bars are deff needed so I gotta get those. I am running traxxas big bores front and rear. Trying to get the suspension as low as possible so no preload clips in the front, and 2 med thick ones in the rear. 40wt rear and 50wt front. The Rear is about couple mm's above the actual carpet surface. If i do any higher, gravity is higher, and more diff-ing out and traction rolling. I ran my rustler last night with new tires. Raced it with the 2wd 17.5 buggies. I had lots of issues. Didn't make it to the main. On my rustler I am running fuzz bite rear and swagger front, big bores front with 30 or 35 wt, cant remember, stock ultra shocks rear, with 30wt. No preload clips, suspension is the lowest I can get it. No sway bars. Diffing out and traction rolling was a big issue. Might just sell them and get an actual comp kit like a SC6.4, T6.4, or if I really want to, a 4wd SCT or a ET410 truggy. The locals are pushing me to get an ET410. Lol. But I keep trying to make my traxxas 2wds into good reliable club racers, which so far is half way decent.
Those issues with my rusty I was having is that I would loose steering (shock tower bolt keeps backing out) and my transponder mounting situation wasnt the best and somehow got unplugged which it didn't track my laps.
have you tried to raise the inner camber link in the back? did that to my slash to lower roll center and the car perform much better in the back end to keep gripping in corners on both astro and loamy dirt, car is rolling over more in the back and starts to slight lift inner front wheel. also im using 70grams of metal plate under battery on a LCG chassi to plant the car and further lower LCG.
Why does that track look wet and muddy so often. I get that it's misted but it looks very wet and muddy. Is that just the camera or something or is it that wet?
Its probably because its that wet. My local indoor clay track is sealed and blue groove. And now it gets watered down and glued every night. Only raced on that indoor clay 3 times, as Im mostly a carpet guy. But that sealed clay is way more cleaner than muddy / wet clay like he has.
