If you want the BigBlock, You should check out the 2 new motors from mofo rc, The BigBlockX for high speed and the TorquebeastX180 for all around everything.
It's not the water that killed the motor. All motors will run under water. It's the dirt and gunk that does it. Clean out the motor real good with some electronics cleaner (a bit like brake cleaner but safe for electronics) and it should b fine
@@tundrasr5709that was very common for older style motors with different style brushes. It's definitely NOT recommended for the cheaper non serviceable motors with cheap non replaceable brushes. I've never bothered with the PN racing motors, but you could break them in the old school way just fine.
You really should try an isdt70 esc on the blue one with the crawl gears. Especially given the fact you're using the higher speed motor. That esc will unlock the motor's potential and is unbelievably smooth on throttle management given the Bluetooth tuning capability. It's a 10th scale ESC so it has a good amount of everything the 4m will ever need. You'll just need to decase and solder more appropriate wires and ends for the application. I'm really hoping you see this and try it man. I have 2 videos running it on my channel and those are on stock motor. It's so smooth
Breaking in the brushes before installing helps a ton. I use a shot glass full of 91% isopropyl alcohol. Submerge the motor in it and for 30 seconds go 1/4 throttle. Then 30 seconds work to half throttle calmly forward and reverse. You can do a couple full throttle at the end. Blow it out with keyboard compressed air or regular compressed if you can. A drop of 3 in 1 oil on each end install and go. Perfectly seats your brushes and extends motor life. Helps performance too being properly seated.
i would have assumed that changing the motor wouldn't change much of the feel of the power curve; I would think the esc makes the biggest difference. but, could it also come from any slack in the drive train and gears that there's some dead spots and some of the jumpiness.
i think you should of mismatched the motors and trans i woud of like to seen the 90t on the crawler gears see if you lose too much top end for ALOT better bottom end
In testing these motors we decided to market them as he tested them here because it offers a range of speeds in both motors but if you want extreme slow speed control the 90t motor is the one to go with. The only downside is that if you are running stock esc the top speed is diminished a lot but that happens with the stock motor too. The advantage of this 90t motor is that it can handle 3s and that will gain back that top end speed with crawler gears and add much more torque. For this you need a 3s capable esc which is extra money but if you want to really squeeze every benefit from these 3s is the way to go 👍.
Love watching your video and builds. Have you tried the new Meus Racing gears 25.87:1 instead of the 40:1? They make a great inbetween gear running a low turn motor. Im running them in my k10 and love it. The more options the better for these trucks.
Hmm. I’m trying to get the most torque out of my high speed gears. I’m still running with stock motor 87 turn. Would this pn 90 turn give me more smoothness and torque?? I’m doing a pulling sled build
Any issue with breaking driveshafts or anything after the motor replacement? What did you use to make the spare tire holder in the blue truck? Thank you
Still gotta get me one of these. Lol Wanna find me some screw on wheels like these stock ones, they look dope! Although.... Dies it come with that spare tire in the bed?
Start with a deadbolt, that seems to fit the Ultra really well. You can run a micro komodo without chassis mods if you want to go brushless. I wouldnt suggest going any bigger of a servo than an Emax as I ran into fitment issues.
@@CapeCrawlers got it today and I’m overly impressed with the crawler gears and this motor! The slow crawl and torque are soo good! It is a bit slower than I was hoping for but over all impressed!
