TRAXXAS UDR - OPEN DIFF MOD....SERIOUSLY! Plus GPM Parts! 

Thanks bro

Yeah I enjoy building myself

Thanks, I use a Panasonic Fz1000

Thanks for watching mate 👍

Much appreciated brother. Glad to hear that you liked it

Are they actually titanium or just titanium colour. If actual titanium, where did you find them?

@@tommyb133 they are actual titanium. I found them on eBay.

Yeah needs more bling 😊

I’ve had my udr since it came out. And every since I raced my brother with it against my xmaxx I broke the rear trailer arms. It was a decent race until we both hit each other sideways neck & neck minor collision still rolling. We swung back and immediately noticed it was snapped! I was so pissed it was my first upgrade I made aluminum. After looking at the chassis design as I installed the upgraded trailer arms, all I could think about was man this truck screams aluminum bulkhead + upper/lower A-arms. All though the saying whn you go full aluminum there’s no flex or give, I’d still do it just to see how strong it can be. Ever since tht rear trailer upgrade my udr sat after only being driven abt 6 times. I stockpiled all the aluminum pieces i wanted to use. The main upgrades I wanted even before being designed included the rear axle, bulkhead, & transmission housing. I now have the axle & bulkhead bt no trans yet. Hot racing front driveshaft & AL diff case, Integy Steering bellcrank, & acer racing ceramic bearings to piece things together for smoothness. Looking at the video told me everything I wanted to know visually & verbally about the capabilities & purpose for open diff. Although I like the challenge of driving with lock diff, I’m more open about this mod.

Thanks

So open diffs stops the roll over?

wait so this comes with a locked diff when its new?

Yes...it does

Yeah they looks nice

Much appreciated bro

Perfect mod if you wanted a "stadium truck" set-up! Good upgrades all around. Cheers.

Thanks 😊

Thanks

Thanks man

Much appreciated bro, glad you liked it

Much appreciated brother and thanks for your input. I still love the UDR, it is a different driving experience which makes it fun and more challenging at times.

A stiffer saw-bar will solve most of the body roll issue

Thanks man

Yeah I think they are different.

Hey Marc's you have a link to those aluminum discs? I want to do this model but I want to keep my calipers and discs...

@@Bawla187 on Ebay search for udr brake discs and a ton will come up to choose from.

@@marcsoscaletrains cool, hopefully they'll have the same deep slots allowing the rotors to fit..

@@Bawla187 Just grind 2-3mm off the axle...no need to spend money or order parts.

Thanks man, housing should hold as it is the same as the front

Thanks man

I’m actually watching this as I’m doing all three diffs on my Kraton

Dude !!! Change your upper link bars also. The ones that come on they're very weak

Aaron j Shirey jr ya I’ve got the gpm upper rear links, I didn’t bend my originals or anything but when I got the aluminum trailing arms I bought those also

Thanks bro. Definitely might get the upper links soon

Just adjust the preload

Nah I haven't but I will check it out

@@RCTanksTrucks247 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-iNP01R75sVM.html

Awesome

Will do later on

Yeah

Cheers

No, not really

What upgrades does it need?

6s power and tarmac 😂

6s no problem wheelies

I find it much better to be honest

Can't remember, sold it

NFGrc batteries. Check out our Facebook page

Seems to be working well. No issues so far.

@@RCTanksTrucks247 Cool thanks. I'm ordering those parts right now.

That's dynamite marine grease. My hobby shop sells it but it is also available online

Thanks from the UK

@@RCTanksTrucks247 I use penrite marine grease

Not as big

Good call 🤙🏻

Certainly did 😉

@@RCTanksTrucks247 awesome

Thats what i was thinking as i watched this. I hate running offroad trucks on pavement they just arent meant for it. Get an onroad for that cause these trucks are made to be offroad and the udr wont handle like say a traxxas slash cause its a trophy truck made to drive like a scale trophy truck with proper driving offroad.

It's there. I use dynamite marine grease

?

I much prefer it now. Heaps better. Each to their own bro

@@RCTanksTrucks247 true that to each their own but facts are facts

Not really man, tried that too before. This is a easy mod, no big deal just wanted to try it out.

Wrong

What do you mean?

That always happens

losi fanboy alert.

SOLID REAR AXLES

It's good standard, different type of car but I wanted to see how it performs with a diff and solid rear axle

Mmm. It does look like a fun one, if I had the money I'd buy one and nitro convert it. I think an OS 30VG would do the trick. Also, seems I've spotted a linguistic difference. Up here in the US, the term 'solid axle' would apply to the UDR's rear axle with or without a diff, we say 'locked' or 'open' if the need to specify what sort of gearing is within the axle exists. Interesting little linguistic note there, heh.

you can get a fy03 1/12 for $40..it's basically almost the same design if you want to ..hack/wack...to LEARN without breaking the bank. Brushless motors has pros and cons...it's instent wazzoo of power/torque..you have to match the proper KV with the gear ratio. Power to weight ratio. It also depends on what you want... I dont crawl much....No thanks on locking the diff. Bigger toy needs beefier parts...and that's that. Nitro sucks....i ran those back in the days...too many moving parts and too much noise.....I can run my electric after midnight.lmao Im converting a couple of Tmaxx to electric. chucking the tranny and drive lines. replace with 1/8 scale buggy center diff and metal dogbones. WHy would I do that and not just leave it stock as running a nitro?? lol

@OneEyE Monster * If I wanted an off brand piece of chinese sewer pipe remelt I'da already bought an FY03. Thing's made of plastic so spongy it's more true to say they built it out of rubber instead. You get what you pay for and I don't want a model that's built out of such soft plastic that rough terrain renders steering pointless due to excessive flex. Plus parts are gonna be a bitch to get and it's not gonna be anywhere near as capable of soaking up rough terrain as a 1/6 desert truck is just by virtue of being a fraction the size. A large part of why the UDR is so realistic in how it drives is because it's a heavy ol' pig, which means inertia tends to keep the chassis reasonably still while the suspension is going bonkers to soak up the bumps. You don't get that on a lightweight plastic thing from Banggood, it's gonna bounce all over creation. * I'm well aware of the pros and cons of brushless power. I have a brushless motor in my fleet, I have a brushed motor in my fleet, I have two smallblock nitros in my fleet, I have a big block nitro in my fleet and I have a 40 size nitro aircraft. Of the lot, the biggest smile factor *by far* comes from when I get the Mad Crusher GP out. Big block brute force on a live axle 1/8 MT is grin city. Thing wheelies on command like it was brushless, hearing it run through the three-speed trans is beautiful, and it just feels right to have a noisy, smokey brute of an ICE powerplant pushing a monster truck over and/or through everything that dares oppose it. That's just *right*, ya know? But my SC10GT is a close second, it's only a smallblock but it's light, nimble, fast, doing all the things the big and bulky Mad Crusher can't do. Like corner at speed without flipping over. On the other side of the coin, my brushless model has a habit of obliterating ring-and-pinion sets, destroys driveshafts, has melted several switches, and for three or four months was nothing but issues. They're sorted now...mostly...except for how I have to recalibrate my ESC every other time I turn the fucking thing on. IHSTHUTISHJSTIDHTR. To top it off I didn't even skimp out on the electronics! Castle 5700kV 1406 motor on a Mamba Micro X Crawler ESC running in SmartSense mode. IT ain't like I'm using any one-hung-low junk electronics to power that thing. And the brushed model? It's an original 80s Grasshopper with an original 80s 540 silvercan in it, pushed along by a 2s 4500mAh lipo running through a HW Quickrun 1060 ESC, all while running on the original 80s tires with the original 80s AM stick radio. You can probably imagine how it drives. It's fun enough but I haven't run it in months. * Nitro doesn't 'suck'. It just requires a little patience, a little knowledge of how engines work, and not living in a suburban hell where your neighbors bitch about you enjoying your hobbies. Rural life best life, I can run whatever the hell I want to out here and the nearest neighbor's too far away to hear it no matter how loud it is. I still run nitro, still prefer nitro in fact. My next kit will be the Kyosho Scorpion XXL Kit version, and I'm going to build it GP with an OS 30VG in the back. It's gonna be boss and the smile factor'll be off the charts. * Yeah, why would you waste your time with a T-maxx? I honestly have no clue why you'd go to all that trouble to brushless one of those things. They're fragile as fuck and should be binned in their entirety in favor of a monster truck *that can survive a basic rough landing from a jump more than two truckheights above the ground.* The correct response to acquiring a Tmaxx or EMaxx is to flip it on eBay and buy something better made. Fucking pieces of shit have had the same weak bulkheads for >20 years. I still want to do a nitro UDR someday. And if I ever find the money, I will do a nitro UDR. Why? *That's what I prefer.* I have a bigger grin on my face when one of my nitros is sitting stationary idling away at my feet than I do either of my electrics doing WFO donuts. The cool factor of having a functional internal combustion engine capable of >1HP that's smaller than a coke can is well worth the price of admission to a gearhead like me who can't afford to hotrod 1:1 stuff.