Tree Pruning. Reduction Vs. Thinning. Arborist Advice 

So glad to help. I've always thought this information not to be common sense but once you learn it, it makes sense.

Very good to hear! Thanks for the kind words.

Haphazard and mindless was just about what I was gonna do but now I have a plan!

Thank you for saying so.

Glad you did too!

So right you are....The principles do hold true for most trees. Thanks for watching.

Glad the video helped! Amazing how resiliant mesquites and palo verdes are.

Very glad to help!

Very glad to help!

Thank you, glad to help.

Glad it was helpful.

Yes! Making REDUCTION cuts to avoid THINNING cuts not only decreases leverage and weight which raises a limb but it also keeps inner material which absorbs the energy of wind and collects nutrients from the sun in low light conditions that happen every day at dusk and dawn. It's all about nurturing the inner canopy.

Glad to hear that!

Thanks for saying so.

Hi Mr. Murphy, Thank you for commenting with your insight. Cutting leaders back to branches that are less than 1/3rd the diameter of the leader you are removing is simply a rule of thumb which tries to avoid the home owner reducing back to a limb which has not yet formed enough to assume the new leader role. Certainly, if all limbs have been removed as in a "lion tailed" limb then one must reduce back to whatever may be available which might possibly be less than 1/3rd. Regarding your dislike of the three cut pruning method: is there another technique you use to avoid tearing a limb that is too heavy to manually control?

preferable 1/3 not required. Still best practice, just my opinion GREAT VIDEO

@@jessehuffman3502 "best" compared to what???.. because thge way that I was taught, you just cut te entire limb off if there isn't a lateral 1/3 diameter to take the lead. WHICH IS COMPLETE GARBAGE... take as much weight off as needed in that given scenario and let the tree regrow from there... even a stub that can put out sprouts from latent buds

Glad to help.

Glad it was useful to you.

Great point! CODIT (Compartimentalization of Decay in Trees) as described by the late Alex Shigo happens most effectively at the collar. When cutting on leaders there is no collar. Given that, try not to cut into the space of the limb that is remaining. Think of a cross section of a limb growing out of a leader. Dont cut into that interior portion of the limb that is remaining. I hope my words describe it clearly.

@@ArboristAdvice Hi RTS. Yes, I know what you mean by that, thanks. Although I do follow that rule, I can`t remember seeing a diagram or a formula for width of cut area in relation to removed and remaining wood, and in consideration of the side branch left (if you can understand my poor way of explaining). It`s an interesting subject. Thanks for your help my friend. All the best with your business.

Glad to hear it!

Glad to help!

Thank you, hope the info helps.

Thanks for the feedback. Hope the video helped.

Thank you!

Thanks

Glad to help.

Try "Living Tree Service" and "Integrity Tree Service"

@@ArboristAdvice I will do that thank you so much for your response I really appreciate it.

This applies to all trees in most situations.

@@theronwinsby great, thank you for the response. Stay cool

Hi Josh, ProTrees has it right! This concept absolutly holds true for most trees. Basically we want to nurture the lower canopy, the lower branches and not remove them. If they are functionally in the way then attempt to reduce them rather than remove them. 👍🏽

Thanks for the compliment.

Rather than asking when is the best time to prune a mesquite in the Sonoran desert, the better question is when not to prune. Avoid pruning out significant green within 6 to 8 weeks of new growth. Explanation: The tree spends all winter storing up nutrients. If we remove limbs within 6 to 8 weeks of growth then the tree will get no return for its investment. If you have taken out the interior of the tree which is unfortunately very common then give it some time to regrow the inner canopy. Nurture the inner canopy so to speak. The tree will grow new "suckers" as a response to trying to regrow the inner canopy. Allow it to do so. Hope that was helpful.

You are welcome!

Thanks for saying so.

Glad to help!

Glad to hear!

Thank you for saying so! I’m glad “Mesquites & Palo Verdes, A Home Owner’s Guide” was useful to you.

@@susanvose8713 Thank you Susan!

Difficult to say without seeing the tree on site since there are many factors to consider other than the height of the canopy including root health/structure & strength. Limb taper also plays a big role. Soil dampness and compaction should also be considered.

Thanks for saying so. Glad to help.

Yes, absolutely. The differences are found in the patterns of branch attachment and how many branches are attached but the concept of reducing back to a branch and not thinning off branches still applies.

Glad to help

Glad to help!

I feel where you are coming from. Try this: Give them three reasons why keeping the middle and lower canopies is beneficial. 1. The resulting growth is in thickness and strength rather than weakess and length. 2. Middle limbs serve to absorb the vibration of wind. 3. Lower green material collects nutrients from the sun in lower light conditions. Dusk and dawn is about six hours a day. Add that up over a tree's life and it is a long time.

The reduction principle, cutting a leader back to a branch, applies the same in a pine to take off weight and leverage. Although I did not speak of using reduction cuts to subordinate lower limbs from the main dominant canopy in this video, subordination is done less frequently in pines due to their already naturally growing subordinate lower canopy.

You are welcome!

Glad to help.

Glad to help. Espescially another tree guy!

You got it!