Freehub overhaul can be made along with the bearings service, shown here: • How To Service Shimano... RJ freehub tool: • How To Make A Freehub ... 15 mm hex wrench you need: amzn.to/2BKGoZx freehub grease: amzn.to/2rZPa1B
Thanks to your detailed explanation video, I performed hub maintenance for the first time today. In fact, this is the first maintenance in 14 years. Now that I have learned it, I will maintain it once a year. Thank you again to mu Hub and Your.
That first seal, witch you remove with screwdriver, I got good tip from Park Tool's video where Calvin Jones suggested use tyre lever instead screwdriver. And you can put back with right size socket.
Excellent stuff! The wheel against the wall, the 15mm hex key and the steel pipe for leverage. It got the job done for me and I am not sure I would have persevered without having seen your video. Thank you.
This has helped me, thanks. I didn't have any tool available to remove the freehub body from the hub, so I just left it on there and disassembled it like that. It was cumbersome but still worked like a charm.
Good video! I did part of this procedure, stopped before disasembling the freehub. My older Deore XT required a 10mm hex wrench. My hub wobbled on the wheel, so I tightened with the 10mm hex and put everything else back together.
If you have to take the freehub body apart, then you can use the TB-1018 tool, from SuperB, to dismantle it. Alternatively you can use a Morningstar Freehub Injector so that you don't even have to dismantle it at all! Just use it with degreaser to flush out the old lube and dirt, let it sit for a while to dry out and then inject it with your choice of lube. I use a heavy oil, like gear box oil, which I've done now for about 20 years or so, with good results.
I took an old socket, put it in the big old bench vice - and with an angle grinder, ground it with 2 notches to fit in the freehub to free up the guts. Great video!
Depends why you want to remove the freehub. If it is just a bit 'sticky' you probably do not need to remove it, but can get by with flooding it through with a solvent to wash out old grease, followed by a light oiling, with cleaning and regreasing the axle bearings.
AMAZING DETAILED VIDEO !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! i have a ALEX ACE rear hub on my Cannondale Bad Boy 5 - Sram 11 hex socket , just added 10w-30 oil and took the rear seal and forced Automotive wheel bearing Grease .and reassembled
You need a 12 mm star drive to remove from the wheel. I could not get the freewheel apart so soaked in petrol. Have it a tap on bench and pawls then worked. Final clean in thinners, soaked in container of engine oil and works perfectly.
I find the attitude echoed in many of these posts, "but it's so cheap to throw it in the landfill and buy a new one and I don't have to learn or do nearly anything just buy and waste", very disheartening. I believe it was H.G. Wells who said;"Every time I see an adult on a bicycle, I no longer despair for the future of the human race ". I can assure you it is not "you" he is talking about.
it's recommended to use thick oil than grease when relubing the freehub because over time grease gets stiff and gummy and it slows down the pawl movement in the freehub, but you can use grease when you're putting back the bearing balls so it holds it and prevents it from rolling all over the place, or use silicone grease to lube the freehub(its much thinner and its safe for plastics and rubber) don't use magnetic screwdrivers to extract the bearing balls and then reusing it because it magnetizes the bearing balls thus preventing it to roll smoothly cheers
It looks more complicated to clean and maintain than the other budget hubs. I always prefer Shimano Deore for MTB, but I'm thinking now to get a Sealed Bearing type one now. :)
5:11 doing this without a special tool is the easiest way to damage the parts. In your video it seems easy because it's either brand new or you did it first offscreen. In real life this part will most likely be very hard to turn around within the freehub body. You usually open work hubs with seized parts, not the fresh new ones.
I never put grease where the engager are located, only a dips of a nice oil, I use motorex CNC spindle oil, itc vgc 46. Work for me, on the opposite side behind the rubber in my case, I put a lot of thick grease as a preventative action.
you should always separate balls (those 38+34) and not mix them - when you take them out and put them back in - as they will not have the same size but eventually wear a bit so the size will differ from one side to the other. i am talking fractions of a micron but it does matter. take notice that good quality grease can act as a polishing agent (due to the additives) whenever direct contact of metal to metal would occur (mixed lubrication, not boundary, not hydrodynamic) so that they would have even smaller grade then when new. so, the balls will be worn a bit (not that you see it) and they should wear down evenly on one side but not in the same amount as to the other side.
Unless the freehub body has play, all I ussually do is just immerse it in thick silicon oil and keep it for a night to let excess oil go. It is much easier procedure and last years before you need to run the procedure again.
How would I understand if I tighten with correct torque the locknut which holds freehub body brearing together? The locknut which is also acts as a cone. You tighten it on 14:05 In my case I either get some weird axial movement/play in the entire freehub body (like if it's undertightened), or else I think I ovethight them. But the small play is always there.
SHIMS - there are 3 shown in the video. Remove one of the thin ones and check again for the end-play. If still there, remove the other thin one. It's unlikely that you'd have so much play that the thick one should be removed. The body should be fully tightened together as it should be screwed-down on the shims - NOT on the bearing-balls.
Good video, and great info here. But I'm not really sure this service is absolutely needed on Shimano freehubs. I've been running mostly Shimano hubs in my 21+ years of riding and have never had a single problem with any of them, except for a broken front axle on one occasion. I've taken Shimano freehubs apart before just for the heck of it but not because they needed any kind of service or repair. My current bike has XTR wheels/hubs which are about 5 years old and have over 25k miles and I've never even adjusted the bearings, much less remove the axles etc and they still work like new. In my opinion Shimano hubs are best left alone and will last a VERY long time without any problems. Which is a *LOT* more than I can say about some other brands for the few times that I've tried them.
I also have a tandem MTB with a Shimano FH-RM30 rear hub (basically one of their lower-end hubs, and not tandem-specific). We've been riding it for a year now and it has over 2000 miles and works as good as new with zero maintenance.
I can testify, I've ridden my Surly Pugsley fatbike for about 7 years now, all year around, it's my daily rider and my choice for long hauls, it's still on the same Shimano freehub after doing over 40K km which is impressive, it's been abused a lot.
super b tb-1018 is like 10 bucks. I made mine from a 1/2 - 22mm hexagon socket using a belt sander, an angle grinder and a file. After that I ordered the super b. 😅
I did not count the bearings but mine has a little gap too. It is normal i think because these items nt servicable parts. when try to fill gaps with bearings, it did not spin nicely. Thanks
Grime? Call that grime? I have more grime than that in my eyes when I wake up every morning! I've just stripped the rear wheel in my 2005 Kona. Now that's grime. The FWH is dead. :-(. Really dead. As others say you can make a tool to dismantle the FWH. I did. Thanks for the video.
Hi I would probably do this as I'm into not buying new unless totally unavoidable. Most manufacturers recommend not using grease only oil, as grease may cause a sluggish freehub. Is this different for Shimano freehubs as I'm just about to service one and want to get the right lube for it.
Whenever you can't find a suitable hex-wrench - use the head of a hex-bolt and clamp-down hard on the shaft with a vise-grip. You could even weld a lever onto the shaft of the hex-bolt if extra torque was required.
I think its safe to say my hub is better off dead. I bent a 21mm spanner using it as a lever trying to get my freehub off and used a section of 25mm galvo square section as a lever to and it tore straight through that XD
AYUDA PORFAVOR Hola hay que desmontar el núcleo obligatorio? Yo no puedo volver a montar se me queda frenado al poner la rosca con las dos muescas y apretar solo un poco que queda todo frenado ayuda
Bought deore m6000 hubs..wanted to re grease everything before using..surprised to see the inside because it is nothing like that in the video.. mine has only 2 pawls instead of 4..is mine counterfeit?
when putting the freehub back on, the nut that holds it on, that the axle goes through... is this hand tightened, tight enough without play but not too tight?
Hey, I currently have a Shimano Deore M525 32Holes (Bolt type). I am wondering will it fit 11s cassette (Slx) because I am choosing between Deore and Slx? Thank you! :)
The pawls can stick in the 'down' position just from having sticky grease under them. Any grease should be confined to the 'hinge' end, the other should be dry.
Hello, amazing vid, congrats. I have a FH M400B and I would like to know the size of the smaller bearing balls, the ones 34-38 inside the hub. By a chance, are the 3/32" ones? otherwise, how can I find the right size? Thankss!
It depends... if you have the ratchet system like the dt 240s that it will only work with this special thin grease hitch looks like oil. The pawl system is a bit different ... but yep also here is the special thin grease the best choice. A thin layer of grease will also work. Less is more here 😂
I am not sure if this was already commented, but I believe you put the wrong number of balls in the inner part. My experience is that it is almost always odd numbers. So it probably 37 inner and 35 outer.
